I bought 6 from Washington. I replaced original oem 100v QB boards which have a very prominent black dot. They don't sell these anymore. These 50v boards at the same power as the 100v boards are much brighter. I believe the old ones are 561b's. These 48v boards are supposedly 561c s6. Would they be noticibly brighter I wonder. Has led numbers silk-screened on boards. Such as led 1 thru ... They are quite heavy as far as the aluminum and copper amount. They did not quite fit my old slate heat sinks.got me one of those fake boards:
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lm561b (black dot)?
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Check the inrush thermistor. That is what has failed on 2 of mine. $1 for a replacement and about 20 minutes time.What he means is that power supply is only 86% efficient....meanings you are throwing away 14% of your power through thermal loss/conversion.
The reason I run a Meanwell HLG-600H is that they are 96% efficient.
And careful not to over drive the cheap Chinese power supplies....I have a stack of them that gave up the magic smoke when I was pushing them at 49Vdc
Yup that is what burns on them, it also takes out the Tenta X2 safety cap next to it.Check the inrush thermistor. That is what has failed on 2 of mine. $1 for a replacement and about 20 minutes time.
Never said i could spellVeil*
Carry on
Or maybe it was a fake Veil I had on....Never said i could spell
Nice post! However at the end of the day the concern is you cant just compre a b+ and C s6..your seller from alibaba tells you they are legit lm561c s6 and ship you a b+.. first lie.. then you tell them its not C s6 because you were able to see.. they come back and reconfirm its C s6.. at this point you just stop arguing with them because you know they dont care.. fine.. my main concern is if they lied about the led they use they may have as well lied on the bin they use.. so maybe b+ s4 or s5 or whatever other lower bin there is.. ant not s6.. if you use the calculator the same way you did and change to lower s5 or s4... the difference jumps from 5-10% when comparing s6 b+ to s6 C to maybe 20-30+% difference in lumens output.. and identifying the bin... there is no way to know unless you conduct some specific testing with highly priced equipment...*removes the vale of fake for this post*
Lets clarify something....
The LM561B is easy to identify compared to a LM561C, the side notch on the LM561B is the dead give away. Additionally the LM561B lacks the dog eared corners of the LM561B+ and LM561C. If you cannot find a spec sheet and tell the difference between parts, you really should not be building any electronic project.
When people state fake LM561C S6, what they are really stating is "the LED that the fine gentleman or lady in china sold you is not a LM561C S6, because good sir you have been dooped and they in fact sold a lowly LM561B+...HAHAHA GOOD SIR YOU HAVE BEEN FOOLED, LET ME POINT AND SCOFF AT YOU"
At a certain point we are splitting utter hairs on the efficiency arguments at the scale of grows that are happening in the LED forum.
Pushing the LM561B+ to the limit and giving the LM561C a little headroom to limit we get the following. At .065 amps there is a 5 watt difference between the two 288 led case studies. Assuming the two panels are ran 24x7 for 90 days the difference of 5 watts would equal 10,800 watts of power the LM561B+ will spend in excess over the LM561C. Assuming you have a .25 cent per kWh, you would have a bank breaking $2.70 in additional power costs.
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and lastly
@ILikeBigBudz87
Here is the ever growing stack of cheap Chinese power supplies that last less than a day....the vendor on amazon keeps ship them to me each time they burn up. Do yourself a favor and your neighbors around you, don't cheap out on the electronics that have a high possibility of starting a fire. Power supplies hanging in a highly combustible tent is never a wise idea, if you are going to do such a thing at the very minimum get a power supply that is IP67 rated.
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*Replaces Vale of Fake*
Damn....what just happened....must be all that fake weed
Yup, have 10 on order, along with 10 new tenta safety x2 caps....figure i can burn them up 10 times before I learn my lessonCheck the inrush thermistor. That is what has failed on 2 of mine. $1 for a replacement and about 20 minutes time.
I bought higher wattage thermistors so hopefully they will last a bit longer. Also, my power supplies are not being run near maximum capacity anymore.Yup, have 10 on order, along with 10 new tenta safety x2 caps....figure i can burn them up 10 times before I learn my lesson
Which seller did you go with?Yup, have 10 on order, along with 10 new tenta safety x2 caps....figure i can burn them up 10 times before I learn my lesson
Based in China, giorgio11185 has been an eBay member since Aug 07, 2002Which seller did you go with?
I'm not expert and the chinese guy advise me that because I need to cut them for make 1x1 meter led lamp, next time I don't buy from alibaba and don't buy constant voltage, I'll do like u, I'll buy from a reputable source and probably also some cob ^^you shouldn't have bought constant voltage flex strips (= with resistors), because that's the reason why lm/w is lower. you lose efficiency with the resistors, but on the other hand they are cuttable every few LEDs as a result.
they also have constant current ones, and i would be really interested in learning about those. so if you decide to order these, keep the infos coming.
personally i was put off from alibaba sellers by high shipping costs and dubious product claims, so i decided to go with bridgelux strips via digikey
One thing is never trust chinese seller.. but yes its true that 210lm/w is not likely to happen as it would be in near perfect environment I think most people are between 160-180lm/w but it really depends how hard you run them.. i dont think many here bought those strips..I'm not expert and the chinese guy advise me that because I need to cut them for make 1x1 meter led lamp, next time I don't buy from alibaba and don't buy constant voltage, I'll do like u, I'll buy from a reputable source and probably also some cob ^^