Organic no till, probiotic, knf, jadam, vermicomposting, soil mixes, sips etc... Q & A

DonTesla

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
XxTruthxX said:
hello,
I was wondering when it is safe to add my worms, during the cooking process or after? and should i establish my cover crop before transplanting my little ladies?
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.. noticed this wasn't answered ?..
I would add the worms after unless you have plenty to spare, in case your mix is hot.
In other words, this is recipe-dependant.. but better safe than sorry same time.

Re: the cover crop, it is a good way to get endo myco fungi established early,
potentially allowing you to avoid individual sprinklings later at each transplant, as they need roots to infect (in a good way).. once a main crop is introduced a cover crop becomes a companion crop, with inherent pro's and con's to this latter stage.

dubekoms said:
I honestly hate that schedule, many people including myself got into organics to save money and make things easier. That schedule is anything but cheap and easy lol They just want ya to spend all your cash.
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You can also do water only with amazing results if Hy's regime is too much for you. Make your own compost and the expression may wow you.

& in Hy's defense, he makes all his own stuff for very cheap. Practically no cost, really. Once you have stable ferments they can last if stored properly.
For example, use a small mouth bottle for your labs and it can last nearly forever if it's made right.
 
dubekoms

dubekoms

Well-Known Member
DonTesla said:
.. noticed this wasn't answered ?..
I would add the worms after unless you have plenty to spare, in case your mix is hot.
In other words, this is recipe-dependant.. but better safe than sorry same time.

Re: the cover crop, it is a good way to get endo myco fungi established early,
potentially allowing you to avoid individual sprinklings later at each transplant, as they need roots to infect (in a good way).. once a main crop is introduced a cover crop becomes a companion crop, with inherent pro's and con's to this latter stage.



You can also do water only with amazing results if Hy's regime is too much for you. Make your own compost and the expression may wow you.

& in Hy's defense, he makes all his own stuff for very cheap. Practically no cost, really. Once you have stable ferments they can last if stored properly.
For example, use a small mouth bottle for your labs and it can last nearly forever if it's made right.
Click to expand...
Oh no not hyroot, I meant the modern methods schedule from buildasoil.
 
DonTesla

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
dubekoms said:
Oh no not hyroot, I meant the modern methods schedule from buildasoil.
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Yeah modern is a bit ridiculous, more like mayhem. I agree there 100%.

Even hy does a lot of work, imo, a lot more than me, anyway, with all due respect.. I do hope to try his herb out this year in person if I can make time, to see if its all worth it. One good bong rip and I could tell you a lot. For me, though, I'm constantly looking for the MED principle or Minimum Effective Doses, and MEWL, Minimum Effective Work Load.. to bring out the most amazing results.. without over complicating it. KIS all day.

How far can we take water only growing, and how little can we do to get immaculate, expressive, terp-rich herb full of potency, color & flavour. The common ground there is what interests me. Interesting stuff for sure!
 
BionicΩChronic

BionicΩChronic

Well-Known Member
hyroot said:
I fill up a 5 gallon bucket 1/3 of the way with organic material. Then add the aem and the rest water.

The more material you add the higher the ppm's will be for the most part.

You can run it continuous too. After a month you can take a gallon out every week and replace it water until everything has broken down. Or strain and add the left overs to the next ferment

I pretty much make bokashi, labs and flower power and thats it. Occasionally I make the citrus ferment (pest foliar). That lasts me a long time.

My fav is equal amounts pumpkin, apples, banana, and Jamaican papaya, For flower

I've used tomatoes, watermelon, mangos, and eggplants, etc....

Heres the fav
View attachment 4044864

At 4 weeks. It smells really good. Like sweet passion fruit.

View attachment 4044863

For veg my worm castings are enough.

View attachment 4044861

View attachment 4044862

Alpine Sap - benevolence x gorilla glue 4
bred by me.

View attachment 4044865

Crémeberry - benevolence × blackberry cream ( greengenes cut ).

Bred by me too
View attachment 4044871

I'm after lots of large trichome heads and bringing back old school kush flavors.

I'm a hash head

Gg4 icewax that I made.

View attachment 4044892
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VERY nice ice hash what micron?
 
BionicΩChronic

BionicΩChronic

Well-Known Member
hyroot said:
It's fine. That's the cotyledon. Those almost always yellow early on. When plants yellow over night, that's usually caused by the soil drying out.
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He had developed some nice plants but had to start over cause of broad mites.
What sprays do u use to prevent this and other mites?
Neem? Citrus?
What about bud worms and the accursed bud ROT?
The latter is the biggest issue in my region
 
DonTesla

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
@BionicΩChronic

BionicΩChronic said:
He had developed some nice plants but had to start over cause of broad mites.
What sprays do u use to prevent this and other mites?
Neem? Citrus?
What about bud worms and the accursed bud ROT?
The latter is the biggest issue in my region
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Bud rot is from lack of soluble calcium, I think, as seen in tomatoes with blossom end rot.
What form(s) of calcium do you use..

And since Hy is away from the desk at the moment..

He endorses a 5 part IPM regime with a different spray every 2nd day as to keep the fuckers shocked and make it harder for them to adapt.

Neem oil
Karanja
Labs
Citrus Ferment etc
then repeat cycle

We talked about it on the first few pages here :) Tutorials posted too
 
Chunky Stool

Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
DonTesla said:
@BionicΩChronic



Bud rot is from lack of soluble calcium, I think, as seen in tomatoes with blossom end rot.
What form(s) of calcium do you use..

And since Hy is away from the desk at the moment..

He endorses a 5 part IPM regime with a different spray every 2nd day as to keep the fuckers shocked and make it harder for them to adapt.

Neem oil
Karanja
Labs
Citrus Ferment etc
then repeat cycle

We talked about it on the first few pages here :) Tutorials posted too
Click to expand...
Nope.
You are referring to tip rot.
Bud rot is caused by cold & wet conditions -- and it starts on the stem.
 
DonTesla

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Chunky Stool said:
Nope.
You are referring to tip rot.
Bud rot is caused by cold & wet conditions -- and it starts on the stem.
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Yep. You got me, I've never had either issue tbh in all my years and I read that pretty quick.. just some friends have, but yeah, you could post an info source to confirm / that'd be champ
 
Chunky Stool

Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
DonTesla said:
Yep. You got me, I've never had either issue tbh in all my years and I read that pretty quick.. just some friends have, but yeah, you could post an info source to confirm / that'd be champ
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I don't have an info source, but I lost at least 4 zips to bud rot last year on my outdoor grow.

Pretty sure I know what it looks like and what causes it... :roll:
 
DonTesla

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
moment of silence for the buds...

.....

Experience is the best teacher though, so I would say it counts as an info source

I see lots of so called bud rot in the street stuff being sold, even at dispensaries, many of them, sadly.
I just call it mold..bloody spoilage fungus actually botrytis cinerea

You could have still sold it there lol Jk
Indoors it can be avoided though, so it surprises me so much makes it way to retail
 
CaptainSnap

CaptainSnap

Well-Known Member
Hello fellow herbalists!
Just started getting into the true organics over a year ago thanks to the leaders in the section!! You guys rock.

I've been having issues since winter set in with not being able to hold enough water in my 10 gallon pots to be gone 3 days every week and my plants are showing severe yellowing due to them being wilted every time I come back. I really liked the idea of going with bigger containers and going trying my hand at sips style containers. Any of you who built your own with cotton rope wicks? Any tips or suggestions? such as how many wicks you used or how many for a certain gallon pot size?

If you get the chance I posted pictures of the 20 gallon sips containers I built.
http://rollitup.org/t/captains-3600w-perpetual-jungle-living-soil-no-till-sips.957205/
 
ShLUbY

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
CaptainSnap said:
Hello fellow herbalists!
Just started getting into the true organics over a year ago thanks to the leaders in the section!! You guys rock.

I've been having issues since winter set in with not being able to hold enough water in my 10 gallon pots to be gone 3 days every week and my plants are showing severe yellowing due to them being wilted every time I come back. I really liked the idea of going with bigger containers and going trying my hand at sips style containers. Any of you who built your own with cotton rope wicks? Any tips or suggestions? such as how many wicks you used or how many for a certain gallon pot size?

If you get the chance I posted pictures of the 20 gallon sips containers I built.
http://rollitup.org/t/captains-3600w-perpetual-jungle-living-soil-no-till-sips.957205/
Click to expand...
there are a couple possible solutions.

you could get one of those large, deep "runoff trays" you know the 4x4 and 4x8 ones that are like 8 inches deep... and then install a float valve on it so that when it goes below a certain level, it will trip the water back on and refill it. basically you'd be building a passive hydro table, which seems awesome to me! it may require you to prop your plants up slightly, but it would definitely do the trick.

also, you could go the blumat route, if you are not attached to having SIP garden, and they do a pretty damn good job. sometimes they can be finicky, but the same thing can apply. you can get a reservoir, install a float valve, and then not have to worry about leaving for several days!
 
ShLUbY

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
RandomHero8913 said:
I’ll second the blumat option. Once they are setup life becomes so much easier. They’ll be at the moisture level you set them at for the rest of the grow and you’ll be surprised at how little work needs to done.
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literally don't know what i would do without them....

in veg with my smaller pots (1 gal and less) i have been experimenting recently with some "psuedoSIPs". i just put about 1-1.5" of pumice at the bottom of the pot, and then soil above that. then i put the plants on a drip tray and just put water in the tray and let the pumice wick it up to the soil. it's been working great so far as i can tell... only about 10 days in so far but having no worries about dry soil as far as i can tell. pots have nice weight to them whenever i check once the tray dries out.
 
dubekoms

dubekoms

Well-Known Member
ShLUbY said:
literally don't know what i would do without them....

in veg with my smaller pots (1 gal and less) i have been experimenting recently with some "psuedoSIPs". i just put about 1-1.5" of pumice at the bottom of the pot, and then soil above that. then i put the plants on a drip tray and just put water in the tray and let the pumice wick it up to the soil. it's been working great so far as i can tell... only about 10 days in so far but having no worries about dry soil as far as i can tell. pots have nice weight to them whenever i check once the tray dries out.
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Sounds kind of like the swick method. I think you use fabric pots and put them over a container of perlite. Fill the container with water until its 2 inches below the fabric pot. Sounds a lot easier than cutting holes and what not for net pots in sips. If its working well for you I might give it a shot, my only worry is it might get overwatered? Maybe letting the roots fill out the pot first would be a good option before putting it on the perlite.
 
ShLUbY

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
dubekoms said:
Sounds kind of like the swick method. I think you use fabric pots and put them over a container of perlite. Fill the container with water until its 2 inches below the fabric pot. Sounds a lot easier than cutting holes and what not for net pots in sips. If its working well for you I might give it a shot, my only worry is it might get overwatered? Maybe letting the roots fill out the pot first would be a good option before putting it on the perlite.
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the pumice is in the pot itself. so no soil medium actually sits in the water at all. the pumice is what sits in the water, and naturally wicks water up to the soil. so far i have not experienced any signs of over-saturation (i've lifted the containers to make sure they didn't have too much weight to them) I'll take some pics when i get back home today and put them in my thread. hopefully, they will still be looking good :)
 
dubekoms

dubekoms

Well-Known Member
ShLUbY said:
the pumice is in the pot itself. so no soil medium actually sits in the water at all. the pumice is what sits in the water, and naturally wicks water up to the soil. so far i have not experienced any signs of over-saturation (i've lifted the containers to make sure they didn't have too much weight to them) I'll take some pics when i get back home today and put them in my thread. hopefully, they will still be looking good :)
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Gotcha I think I've seen you make a 5 gal sip before? I'm stuck on what size net pot to use I was thinking maybe 4in?
 
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