Organic no till, probiotic, knf, jadam, vermicomposting, soil mixes, sips etc... Q & A

RandomHero8913

RandomHero8913

Well-Known Member
hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Fastslappy said:
If u left the soil outside moist ,u gotta infestation , nematodes work the best followed by red mites ,rove beetles
BT doesn't Work on fungus flies ,it slows them but really it's just getting worse than slow them .
When u do treat with nematodes treat the outside areas that r moist as well as yer soil ,treat all potted plants ,even house plants .secret to nematodes is cold clean water at least below 50f to mix the worms into , don't buy nematodes on a sponge, pay extra get a tray or envelopes,nematodes r sold as a ag product ,some vendors buy trays ,then split them up ,adding the nematodes active into the sponge, this is really bad cause by the time u get them ,they r really stressed or dead , if they smell like fish they r dead .
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You're confusing your mites. Hypoaspis mites are brown. Red spider mites are 3 times larger than two spotted spider mites and cause leaf damage similar to what thrips do. They don't make webs. They're very common in the desert.
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
hyroot said:
You're confusing your mites. Hypoaspis mites are brown. Red spider mites are 3 times larger than two spotted spider mites and cause leaf damage similar to what thrips do. They don't make webs. They're very common in the desert.
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Nope red,brown same mite that I'm talking about ,these don't Web & r never off the soil unless attacking something or trying to escape bad conditions they look red to me & most would say brown I don't know ,but it's the soil mites I got from Evergreen, they don't eat plants ,they attack anything on the soil
I know what a spider mite looks like i have had , red , 2 spot , russet
 
SSGrower

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
@hyroot could you please elaborate on this comment:

hyroot said:
Veg power - plants only fermet one type of plant at a time. I ferment mainly aloe and comfrey separately for veg ferments.
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What is the reason to ferment seperatly, is it because of different fermentation rate? There are different strategies in winemaking for doing blended wines, blend grapes or juice prior to ferment, after primary ferment before ageing, or even at botteling. Curious to your reasoning and is it just for veg ferments you do this?

Please elaborate on the azomite, aluminium, and aflotoxins (sp?), like others I have this product and would rather use it than throw it away (i.e. disperse it in and amongst my non consumable landscape) if it can be done so safely.

Also haven't seen any mention of vermeculite, it paramagnetic, has mineral content.....

Regards,
SSG
 
RandomHero8913

RandomHero8913

Well-Known Member
SSGrower said:
@hyroot could you please elaborate on this comment:



What is the reason to ferment seperatly, is it because of different fermentation rate? There are different strategies in winemaking for doing blended wines, blend grapes or juice prior to ferment, after primary ferment before ageing, or even at botteling. Curious to your reasoning and is it just for veg ferments you do this?

Please elaborate on the azomite, aluminium, and aflotoxins (sp?), like others I have this product and would rather use it than throw it away (i.e. disperse it in and amongst my non consumable landscape) if it can be done so safely.

Also haven't seen any mention of vermeculite, it paramagnetic, has mineral content.....

Regards,
SSG
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Fermenting one plant at a time is wisdom from Gil Carandang at the unconventionalfarmer. My guess is so that there is only one food source and that way you ensure proper fermentation. You can combine afterwards.

I think if you were to combine before fermentation, like you said, some things have different fermentation times. Also, the organisms breaking it down may prefer one over the other giving you a non-balanced final product. I haven't done any testing on this so take my info with a grain of salt.
 
SSGrower

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
RandomHero8913 said:
Fermenting one plant at a time is wisdom from Gil Carandang at the unconventionalfarmer. My guess is so that there is only one food source and that way you ensure proper fermentation. You can combine afterwards.

I think if you were to combine before fermentation, like you said, some things have different fermentation times. Also, the organisms breaking it down may prefer one over the other giving you a non-balanced final product. I haven't done any testing on this so take my info with a grain of salt.
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Well I guess we all do it differently, I'm on much smaller scale so I make my fermen's in quart jars instead of 5 gallon buckets. I try to get everything ground or chopped up evenly, lately I'll take some bud, yarrow, and even random garden clippings. Not allowing it to go anarobic seems key.
I get what you say about specializing the food source for specific mycos, but there is quite a codependency of these in nature so there being my logic for mixing the food sources.
 
M

MrKnotty

Well-Known Member
@hyroot was wondering if you have ever fermented horsetail? It's loaded with silica and makes a wonderful amendment. I'm wondering though if one fermented horsetail if the resulting concoction would resemble Pro Tekt. I know that I have read that when fermenting a plant only the primary nutrient is extracted. So for instance if we ferment Alfalfa we extract the nitrogen but not the Tricantonal. So if we ferment Horsetail would we even extract the silica?
 
hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
SSGrower said:
@hyroot could you please elaborate on this comment:



What is the reason to ferment seperatly, is it because of different fermentation rate? There are different strategies in winemaking for doing blended wines, blend grapes or juice prior to ferment, after primary ferment before ageing, or even at botteling. Curious to your reasoning and is it just for veg ferments you do this?
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The reason for fermenting plant types separately is because of the type of hormones and auxins the plant produces. Also only cut and ferment plant tips because most of the hormones and auxins are in the tips. ie flowers, buds, leaves etc...


SSGrower said:
Please elaborate on the azomite, aluminium, and aflotoxins (sp?), like others I have this product and would rather use it than throw it away (i.e. disperse it in and amongst my non consumable landscape) if it can be done so safely.
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Aflotoxins are toxic carcinogens. Aluminum oxide binds with aflotoxins. It s good to help cleaning up contaminated soil among other things. But I wouldn't feed it to my soil. Azomite contains aluminum oxide.



SSGrower said:
Also haven't seen any mention of vermeculite, it paramagnetic, has mineral content.....

Regards,
SSG
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Vermiculite contains asbestos and vermiculite isn't soluble. It takes years to break down
 
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hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
MrKnotty said:
@hyroot was wondering if you have ever fermented horsetail? It's loaded with silica and makes a wonderful amendment. I'm wondering though if one fermented horsetail if the resulting concoction would resemble Pro Tekt. I know that I have read that when fermenting a plant only the primary nutrient is extracted. So for instance if we ferment Alfalfa we extract the nitrogen but not the Tricantonal. So if we ferment Horsetail would we even extract the silica?
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The enzymes, hormones and auxins in a ferment releases all the minerals and nutrients. With horse tail the silica will be readily available.

Triacontonal is a plant hormone. With fermenting plants and fruits, hormones are mostly available in the plant tips in the morning before sunrise before the plant goes into a photosythesis state. So in order for it to be available you would have to pick fresh alfalfa early in the morning and ferment it right away.
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
keepsake said:
RO water or aerated tap water?

Jeremy from Buildasoil strongly advises me to ditch my RO system.
But my tap water is 600ppm at 7.5ph
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Says the guy from CO , I've used ro for 20 years in my greenhouse, there's a reason I still use it ,my water is really hard & is a mix of grd water ,river both high calcium carbonates, let alone the use of copper products to reduce algae in the storage lakes . That river is the Russian that drains wine country, Lotsa ag run off
Put CA in your mix yll not have an issue I use 4 sources of CA , for mag I use sulpomag
 
hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
keepsake said:
RO water or aerated tap water?

Jeremy from Buildasoil strongly advises me to ditch my RO system.
But my tap water is 600ppm at 7.5ph
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Fastslappy said:
Says the guy from CO , I've used ro for 20 years in my greenhouse, there's a reason I still use it ,my water is really hard & is a mix of grd water ,river both high calcium carbonates, let alone the use of copper products to reduce algae in the storage lakes . That river is the Russian that drains wine country, Lotsa ag run off
Put CA in your mix yll not have an issue I use 4 sources of CA , for mag I use sulpomag
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You can use.one of those counter top water filter systems that removes the chems or most of them and doesnt create waste water like RO systems do.

I water my plants with areated tap water with a 7 ph 200 ppm's. I use RO water for drinking, cooking, making ice, and making bubble hash.
 
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Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
hyroot said:
You can use.one of those counter top water filter systems that removes the chems or most of them and doesnt create waste water like RO systems do.

I water my plants with areated tap water with a 7 ph 200 ppm's. I use RO water for drinking, cooking, making ice, and making bubble hash.
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no water gets wasted here all waste brine goes to yard,trees,used to grow rare orchids for profit ,had a ebay business , the local tap water here killed them ,been using RO for 20 years now
 
K

keepsake

Well-Known Member
I've just transplanted 14 day old seedlings into a coot's soil mix.
Should I top dress with worm castings and grounded malted barley?
 
SSGrower

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
I can understand the worry with asbestos 2 concerns, if it is friable and are you creating or being exposed to dust/fibers. I hope the manufacturer and supplier protect their employees and will investigate before making another purchase. Thanks to your warning I will exercise more caution when mixing it. It is also my understanding that it is present in all volcanic rock? Since it is kept wet and I do want it to last as I am working on taking a quasi rols method to something I can sustain and maintain with minimal effort.

Oon that note I thought crystalline silica could be present in amendment like gypsum, and possibly diatomatious earth any insight you have here would be appreciated.
 
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