Rainbow Warrior
Well-Known Member
My soil mix - coots mix adjusted
Equal parts peat moss, wormcastings / compost and garden pumice.
per cubic foot
1/2 cup kelp meal
1/2 cup crab shell meal
1/4 cup ahimsa indian neem cake
1/4 cup karanja cake
1/2 cup malted barley seed
2 cups basalt rock dust
2 cups gypsum rock dust
1/2 cup em1 bokashi or grokashi
Mix and cook in a tote or trash can for 4 weeks ( all soil mixes must be cooked). Cooking is basically fermenting the soil. Allowing everything to be broken down by microbes so everything is readily available for uptake when the plant wants. If you don't cook your soil you will be running into deficiencies early on.
If you use a more amended mix with any bone meals (fish or cattle) you will have a much hotter soil and could burn your plants. With bone meals ( fish or cow) you should cook the soil for 2 months minimum for them to break down fully.
Green sand and dolomite lime are both useless as they take up to 2 years to break down. Dolomite lime has the wrong ratio of cal and mag. You want more of a 5:1 cal:mag ratio with liming. Oyster shell flour or gypsum rock dust is a better option. Dolomite lime is a 2:1 ratio
Never use perlite. It floats to the top of the soil ( not aerating the rest) and over time it breaks down into a powder and clogs the soil.
Rice hulls are better for a mulch as the break down pretty quick. Worms love them
2nd round plant new clone or seedling off to the side of the main stalk.. The main stalk from the last grow will break down eventually. Top with worm castings and water
Also add red wigglers and night crawlers to your pots or sips
Use mulch or cover crops.
Pot size 15 gallons minimum. 25 is better. If you run octo pot style sips you can get away with 10 gal pots
What’s ir opinion on of-the-shelf organic soil mix?My soil mix - coots mix adjusted
Equal parts peat moss, wormcastings / compost and garden pumice.
per cubic foot
1/2 cup kelp meal
1/2 cup crab shell meal
1/4 cup ahimsa indian neem cake
1/4 cup karanja cake
1/2 cup malted barley seed
2 cups basalt rock dust
2 cups gypsum rock dust
1/2 cup em1 bokashi or grokashi
Mix and cook in a tote or trash can for 4 weeks ( all soil mixes must be cooked). Cooking is basically fermenting the soil. Allowing everything to be broken down by microbes so everything is readily available for uptake when the plant wants. If you don't cook your soil you will be running into deficiencies early on.
If you use a more amended mix with any bone meals (fish or cattle) you will have a much hotter soil and could burn your plants. With bone meals ( fish or cow) you should cook the soil for 2 months minimum for them to break down fully.
Green sand and dolomite lime are both useless as they take up to 2 years to break down. Dolomite lime has the wrong ratio of cal and mag. You want more of a 5:1 cal:mag ratio with liming. Oyster shell flour or gypsum rock dust is a better option. Dolomite lime is a 2:1 ratio
Never use perlite. It floats to the top of the soil ( not aerating the rest) and over time it breaks down into a powder and clogs the soil.
Rice hulls are better for a mulch as the break down pretty quick. Worms love them
2nd round plant new clone or seedling off to the side of the main stalk.. The main stalk from the last grow will break down eventually. Top with worm castings and water
Also add red wigglers and night crawlers to your pots or sips
Use mulch or cover crops.
Pot size 15 gallons minimum. 25 is better. If you run octo pot style sips you can get away with 10 gal pots
Planning to use biobizz all mix (it’s difficult to get other organic dirt over here on mainland Europe); it consists of 20% sphagnum peat moss, 35% garden peat, 10% high quality organic Worm-Humus , 30% perlite and 5% Pre-Mix.
Should I add anything to the dirt, or use it as it is?
RW