Outdoor raised beds and soil recipes?

Yah gotta believe ol George Jetson grew space weed....right? No straight person names their boy ... Elroy.

CrackerJax said:

Don't forget to use your jetpack for the last 100 yards, so as not to leave a trail.

Click to expand...

There is only one way in the area, but several ways out (its weird) But I don't really need to worry about a trail, because the ground is covered in about 5 inches of pine straw and leaves. So, if I happen to see I've made a trail, simply ruffle the leaves and "waula", no trail.

OK, so I have revised my original idea of having 20 3x3x1's to having 2 6x21x2.

Yes this means they will be in 21 ft rows that are 6ft wide, but this is much more efficient that my original idea.

And I know that all of you will be thinking "helicopters will see that quicker than a heart beat", well, the DTF heli hasnt flown over in 2 years, and last I heard, the DTF in my county crashed its copter.

"Well what about people?". This area is rarely used, and when used, people are usually driving by fairly quickly in trucks or on dirt bikes and 4 wheelers. So no one is going to pay attention to this area. And I doubt I can grow plants that smell strong enough that you can smell them from where the Truck/4 wheeler trail is.

Planting in red clay load the clay with lime and triple super phosphates Your need it. If you plant in march your days will not be short enough to bloom unless the are ready to bloom and to be honest. It would grow, but bugs in the southeast, in the summer are a bitch. It will also be hot and the plant will be massive amounts of water so you'll need to haul water. Start may be mid summer/late summer harvest October/ November.
Also you would never make a bed that wide. More than 4' wide and you can't reach the center without walk on the bed, which you don't want to do so that the soil does not become compacted.

Yeah, I was reconsidering the plant time to april/mid april.

Bugs, I can handle bugs. I have a recipe I got from this site that kill and repels bugs and wildlife. I take a fat pinch of my dad's Skoal, and put it in an empty tea bag, then staple that shut. Put that in a glass of warm water. Let set for 2 days. Then poor that liquid into my spray bottle with more warm water, and spray the plants with that. The nicotine kills/repels the bugs, and the tobacco smell keeps wildlife away (plus I piss around the area)


And the bed will be that wide because I want each plant to have 18 cubic feet to root ( if you do the math, that means the 21x6x2 is fit for 10 plants). And considering my reach, I dont see there being an issue.

In the SE, you can plant ANYTIME after the last frost ... so March is just fine.

Plants not short enough to bloom? Uhhh, wth does that even mean??

Your veg will begin to take off after or around March 21st (the Equinox, meaning the sun gains every day. The earlier you plant the bigger ur plants will be WHEN they do start to bloom, which will be around June 21st.... the solstice.

Planting in April instead of March will result in smaller plants...period. This is the great advantage you have over northern climates....you can grow bigger and/or harvest earlier, depending on the strain.

Thanks for the info on ur last post cracker.

But I just did a unit conversion with google, and found that 1 cubic foot= roughly 7.5 gallons (US).

Now, if that is indeed correct, I could technically grow plants as big as they were last year, in 1x1x1 spots. but, Im am going to give my plants more room than that, so I am revising my idea to be smaller (and thus less detectable and more efficient to reach and what not).

SO, my revised idea is going from 6x21x2 to 4x12x2. So these 2 rows will be 4ft wide, 12ft long, and 2ft deep (technically 1ft deep, and 1ft over the ground). This will give each plant a 2x2x2 area (if my math is correct, anyone wanna help me there) to grow, which (according to google conversions chart) will give each plant roughly 60 gallons of soil to root in.And last year I had my plants in 5 gallon buckets and they grew really nicely. So, I think everyone can agree this seems much more realistic. It is more manageable, and will be less than half the cost (soil wise).

I think u'll end up trimming them.

Offset each row from the other.

In the business we call it dragon tooth planting. One row evenly spaced and the next row evenly spaced but like this

X...X...X...X...X
..X...X...X...X...X

U'll get more space to grow.

what do you mean "end up trimming them"?

and that is a great idea for how to plant the rows like that. Thank you soooooo much cracker.

Cracker, you have been a great contributer to my cause, would you be a friend of my on here? (add me if you will)

Trimming (perhaps tying them) them meaning they may grow out past 2 feet.

yes, I will send you a request. My pleasure.

if they get too bushy and start to touch each other, yes i will probably tie them.

Let's hope they do

let us pray

Same thing ...

im just wondering how many males/females I will be getting. Ive always heard the 1 to 1 ratio, but my first grow, out of 6 surviving plants, i think 5 were female. And last year I only grew 3 major plants (like 10 sub plants that I started late) and 2 of the 3 were male.

I have 5 seeds from what we call round here "dro" (i dont know if it is any specific strain or not) and I have 23 seeds from some good mid grade.

What kind of experience have you had with that?

It varies.... because it is random.

Statistically a 1:1 ration is not confined to a set of finite parameters.

Having ten seeds and having a 50/50 chance of female doesn't mean you will get 5 females.

A 1:1 ratio may appear within ur set, but it could lean either way. The 1:1 average may take XXXX amount of seeds.

This year however I ran about 70/30 female over male. maybe 70 plants altogether.

ok, thanks for the input cracker.

Im hoping to get at least 10 females that give around 3 oz's each. If I got more females that gave more bud, hey , thats just profit!

Occasionally I do clone, but in the end I prefer all of my females get pregnant, if just a little. I like my plants to complete their mission....out of fairness I suppose. And each seed generation changes the plant so the next grow is always a bit of a surprise.

I want seedless bud though. So the guy Im selling this to will be really satisfied, you know?

So, if the plants do get too bushy and start to touch each other, what can I do to LST them from touching? I was thinking of using thin wood poles and making the plant's branches basically spiral or something.

What should I do if this would happen?

Use those same poles, but instead anchor them vertically and strategically in between some of the plants and tie string in whatever direction you need to and pull the errant branches back into a better position.... like a May pole.