Overhead or head on? Any differences?

Hi Guys, I just recently started my first Vert grow but I can't seem to get the plants to stop drooping and twisting once the bare bulb is directly head on with the plants. It only doesn't droop when the light is directly over head. My question is, if I keep it overhead, sorta like what i've seen people do with tree grows, will it be just as affective as hanging it directly level with the plants? In my opinion, hanging overhead seems like it defeats the purpose of a vertical grow since the lights aren't being directly absorbed by the plants. See below for my amateur drawing..

During VEG ya wants the bulb down low- The socket(even) with the top of the tallest plant.
Once ya flip12/12 ya want the bulb up high.
Bottom on the bulb at the tip of the tallest plant.
Till strech is over.
Then lower back down ta mid way between. .

Down -veg
Up -strech
Midway-till chop


What size light ya using ?
Perhaps ya ladies are to close and feeling the heat..

2 cents..

Peace...

Go and read my answer in your other thread - that explains why your plants are "drooping".

The answer to your other question is yes, it does defeat the purpose of vertical growing. I keep my light about two-thirds up the plant at all times (I actually have two bulbs hanging on top of each other: one is one-third up, the other is two-thirds up).

Unlike yeps420, I don't raise my light during the stretch period - unless I want to promote more stretch (to take advantage of additional head height).

Also, don't worry about "drooping" or burning the tips of a few fan leaves - that's pretty normal with vertical growing.

yeps420 said:

During VEG ya wants the bulb down low- The socket(even) with the top of the tallest plant.
Once ya flip12/12 ya want the bulb up high.
Bottom on the bulb at the tip of the tallest plant.
Till strech is over.
Then lower back down ta mid way between. .

Down -veg
Up -strech
Midway-till chop


What size light ya using ?
Perhaps ya ladies are to close and feeling the heat..

2 cents..

Peace...

Click to expand...

Im using 600.

Prawn Connery said:

Go and read my answer in your other thread - that explains why your plants are "drooping".

The answer to your other question is yes, it does defeat the purpose of vertical growing. I keep my light about two-thirds up the plant at all times (I actually have two bulbs hanging on top of each other: one is one-third up, the other is two-thirds up).

Unlike yeps420, I don't raise my light during the stretch period - unless I want to promote more stretch (to take advantage of additional head height).

Also, don't worry about "drooping" or burning the tips of a few fan leaves - that's pretty normal with vertical growing.

Click to expand...

Gotcha, thx.

yeps420 said:

During VEG ya wants the bulb down low- The socket(even) with the top of the tallest plant.
Once ya flip12/12 ya want the bulb up high.
Bottom on the bulb at the tip of the tallest plant.
Till strech is over.
Then lower back down ta mid way between. .

Down -veg
Up -strech
Midway-till chop


What size light ya using ?
Perhaps ya ladies are to close and feeling the heat..

2 cents..

Peace...

Click to expand...

I'm on my first vert grow, why do you want the light to be above the tallest so high? I just switched to 12/12 2 weeks ago, also using a cooltube with a 1k.

Oh wait sorry I just reread it, stoney right now sorry.

DHF has said it so many times...veg under horizontal light to get and keep the nodes stackin' then flower with a vert bare bulb.For the first few weeks of flowering you want to keep the tip of the bulb even with the tops of the plants to encourage better stretch (lower the bulb more sideways filling out,higher the bulb more vertical filling out),after stretch is done,lower the bulb till the socket is even with the tops of the plants.

Op,what are the temps next to plants when the bulb is lowered?

A 4" 170cfm exhaust fan (without carbon filter) should keep lights on temps 8-10°F above ambient temp (ambient temp = temp of room the tent draws it's intake air from).

With a carbon filter you'll want a nice 6" 440cfm exhaust fan.

Ou8aCracker2 said:

DHF has said it so many times...veg under horizontal light to get and keep the nodes stackin' then flower with a vert bare bulb.For the first few weeks of flowering you want to keep the tip of the bulb even with the tops of the plants to encourage better stretch (lower the bulb more sideways filling out,higher the bulb more vertical filling out),after stretch is done,lower the bulb till the socket is even with the tops of the plants.

Op,what are the temps next to plants when the bulb is lowered?

A 4" 170cfm exhaust fan (without carbon filter) should keep lights on temps 8-10°F above ambient temp (ambient temp = temp of room the tent draws it's intake air from).

With a carbon filter you'll want a nice 6" 440cfm exhaust fan.

Click to expand...

Nice. I'll keep that in mind. The temps are 76-80 with bulbs lowered. I have a 6" 445 fan i believe. It's just not being used right now because it sucks the air from the room and makes the tent suck in on itself, which makes less room for the plants to grow. Any ideas who to combat this?

mytalizas32 said:

Nice. I'll keep that in mind. The temps are 76-80 with bulbs lowered. I have a 6" 445 fan i believe. It's just not being used right now because it sucks the air from the room and makes the tent suck in on itself, which makes less room for the plants to grow. Any ideas who to combat this?

Click to expand...

Get a fan speed controller, usually around 20 bucks. If not cut holes in your tent.... I'd get the controller though

Turm said:

Get a fan speed controller, usually around 20 bucks. If not cut holes in your tent.... I'd get the controller though

Click to expand...

The problem with cutting a hole in the tent is that the room will have direct light from outside of the room during the dark stages.

If.using a tent,how many of the intake vents you got open? If not using a tent,how big is your intake area?

Intake should be atleast twice the size of you exhaust,so if using a 6" exhaust fan you'll want a 12" intake.

Ou8aCracker2 said:

If.using a tent,how many of the intake vents you got open? If not using a tent,how big is your intake area?

Intake should be atleast twice the size of you exhaust,so if using a 6" exhaust fan you'll want a 12" intake.

Click to expand...

At the moment, none because the tent is in my room, where there are lots of light exposure that would be a problem for the dark cycle. Only air I have coming in is AC. But if i turn on the Vent, the Air in is not as strong as the air being sucked by Vent so it sucks in the room, decreasing space

Dude,get ducting to throw in the vents,make a 90 degree bend as a light trap....you need proper intake dude,no way around it.

Ou8aCracker2 said:

Dude,get ducting to throw in the vents,make a 90 degree bend as a light trap....you need proper intake dude,no way around it.

Click to expand...

I'll get on it.

You can try positive-pressure ventilation: mount a ducting fan on the outside of your tent and use it to blow air into the tent to create positive pressure - this will prevent your tent collapsing in on itself. The intake fan needs to be bigger than the exhaust fan to create positive pressure inside the tent. But once you have an intake fan as well as an exhaust fan, you can actually use a smaller exhaust fan, as it will be assisted by the intake fan. This can slightly reduce noise. You can also mount the intake fan somewhere hidden to keep it quieter and prevent light leaks, and then use ducting into the tent to deliver the air. Lots of options when you think about it. Positive airflow works better than passive ventilation with collapsible tents. Keeping temps down will help with bugs - like spider mites - which reproduce faster in warmer weather.

Negative pressure is what's wanted to keep smells from leaking out of the tent.

Positive pressure will cause odor leakage,carbon filter or not.What he needs is to open another of the intakes in the tent to make sure he has adequate intake,which should be at least twice the area of exhaust.This will still allow for negative pressure,but not allow the tent to bow in on itself.

Yes, you're right. If the tent leaks, positive pressure will push the smell out through the cracks.

I Have Tangerine lush growing that's about 8 weeks old.. my question is how do I get fresh air and co2 through simultaneously?

When growing in a non sealed environment you're bringing in fresh air to keep c02 levels at the bare minimum of 400 ppm (the norm) as well as to help cool things.

In a sealed environment (which does not use ventilation,just a/c to keep the sealed environments temps in check,humidifiers and dehumidifiers to keep RH% in check) you must use c02 enrichment.


If you want to just fool around with it,make sure your area doesn't leak,get mechanical dampers and environmental controlls that turn off the exhuast fan and shut the dampers on your intake and rxhaust vents while turning on your c02 enrichment.


But I think there's better things you could spend your $ on unless running a true sealed environment.