Pale/yellowing/spots deficiency help

calverton

calverton

Member
Hello, im new to this! . early on in veg she had a Cal mag deficiency so I started to add 5 ml of Cal mag plus every water/feeding. She started to green up and do great. The past 3 feedings I used 2 ml of GH floranova bloom,5 ml of Cal mag+ and molasses 1 Table spoon.

Strain GGG diamonds & dust
FFOF soil perlite/Lime added
Tap water 48h I let sit out for
Tap ppm is only 75
Temp 80 humidity 55
2 plants in 3 gallon pots
PH run off 6.5
PPM 600
2 300w Mars led -15 inch from tops
2 60w CFLs
GH floranova bloom 2ml
Cal mag plus 5 ml
Molasses table spoon
Water/feed/water

What should I do?
What should I try next time?

Thank you
 

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GOLDBERG71

GOLDBERG71

Well-Known Member
I don't use most of what you use so I'm not going to comment. Better pics need blue light. But I will tell you that testing water run off is pointless and irrelevant. You only need to be concerned with what is happening in the pot. Not what's coming out of the bottoms. Run off removes excess and interacts with buffers and other matter. Unless you are feeding another plant with that run off it doesn't matter.
 
calverton

calverton

Member
Resinhound said:
Nope,natural light so colors can be seen besides pink/purple.

Lose the molasses,its just useless ppms unless you are feeding the soil and not the plant.
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Yeah it was used for the soil..The one plant is pale compared to the one next to it. I was thinking of using Epson salt next water BC it looks like mag problem to me, but I'm new at this. 5 ml of Cal mag + too much combined with 2 ml of floranova bloom?
 
Resinhound

Resinhound

Well-Known Member
calverton said:
Yeah it was used for the soil..The one plant is pale compared to the one next to it. I was thinking of using Epson salt next water BC it looks like mag problem to me, but I'm new at this. 5 ml of Cal mag + too much combined with 2 ml of floranova bloom?
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Ok let me put it this way...unless its a full organic grow that molasses isnt doing a damn thing for you.As stated before a pic in natural light helps us alot.
 
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flexy123

Well-Known Member
N def, possibly normal flowering N def? Doesn't look TOO concerning to me to be honest. Plants overall look fine, don't worry about some yellow fan leaves in flowering, that's totally normal.
 
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flexy123

Well-Known Member
Yellowing of the larger fan leaves FROM BOTTOM UP is almost always N def, and as said, N def is normal when they start flowering. My flowering plants look MUCH worse. Your top, new growth looks healthy. I am usually not worrying about large fan leaves yellowing and especially not during flower. And also a few (not many), like in your case brown spots would be "normal" on yellow leaves. Plants just start to cannibalize them in flower.
 
calverton

calverton

Member
flexy123 said:
Yellowing of the larger fan leaves FROM BOTTOM UP is almost always N def, and as said, N def is normal when they start flowering. My flowering plants look MUCH worse. Your top, new growth looks healthy. I am usually not worrying about large fan leaves yellowing and especially not during flower. And also a few (not many), like in your case brown spots would be "normal" on yellow leaves. Plants just start to cannibalize them in flower.
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Thank you! actually under the LED the whole color the plant looked pale. Under the sun it looked a lot better
 
GOLDBERG71

GOLDBERG71

Well-Known Member
flexy123 said:
Yellowing of the larger fan leaves FROM BOTTOM UP is almost always N def, and as said, N def is normal when they start flowering. My flowering plants look MUCH worse. Your top, new growth looks healthy. I am usually not worrying about large fan leaves yellowing and especially not during flower. And also a few (not many), like in your case brown spots would be "normal" on yellow leaves. Plants just start to cannibalize them in flower.
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Yellowing leaves in flower isn't normal. You may be fine with your results. But a well maintained plant won't be overrun with N and won't have anything other than the occasional leaf from lack of light. Not N. The reason most plants lack N in flower is because the person growing them follows feed schedules or advice rather than listening to their plants and paying attention. Most brands lack N in their bloom formulas. If you don't adjust accordingly I suggest you try.

One of the best tips a newbie can be given is don't switch to bloom nutes the day you switch to 12/12. The first 2 weeks of flower I use NONE. Then I slowly drop it and start adding more and more bloom. I'm not going on and on about it. But if you look in the right spots you'll find all the info you need using the search feature.
 
calverton

calverton

Member
when 12/12 switched i used half flora nova grow and half flora nova bloom. I've been searching and my last resort is posting, but honestly as a new growing, deficiency's all look the same to me right now. Purple stem/stock, rust spots, pale color,and yellowing. See from looking at deficiency charts,i thought it was mag, but no one said anything about that. This is all Experience from me and hopefully one day I can help someone else.
 
GOLDBERG71

GOLDBERG71

Well-Known Member
I don't know your nutes. So I can't tell you about them specifically. But cannabis uses a lot of N early in flower. I know you'll find many people saying don't use N in flower. But that couldn't be further from the truth. Just repeating what they've read somewhere and come to believe. That's why so many people say it's natural for the leaves to start to yellow during week 3 of flower. Well the plant is starving for N and it's telling you! But the way they are feeding it is natural. But I'm telling you a healthy plant has green leaves not yellow. The only way to achieve a healthy plant is to throw away the feeding schedule and learn to read the plant. 99% of the time yellowing leaves is a lack of N. I repeat I never use ANY bloom formula UNTIL the plant has finished stretching and flowers have begun to form. Not pre flowers the actual beginning of a cluster. At that point I introduce bloom nutes. I reduce grow nutes as I increase bloom nutes. I generally run 10-12 week strains. Roughly around the end of week 6 is when I reach bloom formula only. A few weeks later I'm reducing the bloom. You'll notice the plant starts drying out slower. This is nearing the end and I've slowly decreases the the bloom down to half strength by this point.

When you get good you'll find the sweet spot. You'll be able to feed them every watering and not have to flush the plants at all. The only time my plants get no food is the last 2 waterings. This is for salt based nutes.
 
calverton

calverton

Member
GOLDBERG71 said:
I don't know your nutes. So I can't tell you about them specifically. But cannabis uses a lot of N early in flower. I know you'll find many people saying don't use N in flower. But that couldn't be further from the truth. Just repeating what they've read somewhere and come to believe. That's why so many people say it's natural for the leaves to start to yellow during week 3 of flower. Well the plant is starving for N and it's telling you! But the way they are feeding it is natural. But I'm telling you a healthy plant has green leaves not yellow. The only way to achieve a healthy plant is to throw away the feeding schedule and learn to read the plant. 99% of the time yellowing leaves is a lack of N. I repeat I never use ANY bloom formula UNTIL the plant has finished stretching and flowers have begun to form. Not pre flowers the actual beginning of a cluster. At that point I introduce bloom nutes. I reduce grow nutes as I increase bloom nutes. I generally run 10-12 week strains. Roughly around the end of week 6 is when I reach bloom formula only. A few weeks later I'm reducing the bloom. You'll notice the plant starts drying out slower. This is nearing the end and I've slowly decreases the the bloom down to half strength by this point.

When you get good you'll find the sweet spot. You'll be able to feed them every watering and not have to flush the plants at all. The only time my plants get no food is the last 2 waterings. This is for salt based nutes.
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Great info, cleared many question's for me..next grow I'll wait for that stretch and bud clusters to form before I totally cut my grow nutes.

how much Cal mag should I be using? Should I use it in flower?

Ty bud
 
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flexy123

Well-Known Member
Oh of course not, in the first two weeks after 12/12 they will stretch, they need N.

But I just yesterday read somewhere that "giving too much N" in flower, so that they do NOT get yellow leaves results in a poor yield, the plant is *supposed* to get yellow leaves, supposedly a sign that everything is allright.

I am just repeating what I read/heard. I fed strictly according to schedule with my organic nutes (last year) and the plants ALWAYS got yellow fan leaves. So I assume this is how it's supposed to be. I am using GHE nutes now so I cannot say whether this will happen as well, I will see.

"I repeat I never use ANY bloom formula UNTIL the plant has finished stretching and flowers have begun to form."

The nute schedules from the nutes I know, PlantMagic Oldtimer Organic and GHE Trio *all* take the two week stretch into account. Yes, correct, you don't feed flowering nutes in those two weeks.

** Let's clarify: We're talking about yellowing leaves in LATE flower, right before harvest. Of course one week into flowering I would be worried as well with yellow leaves.
 
GOLDBERG71

GOLDBERG71

Well-Known Member
If you over due the N I'm sure that's possible. The concept is to only give the plant what it needs. I've used the same nutes for years. I also don't feed at the PPM many people do. As a general rule less is more. I said I don't know his nutes. All I can tell you is what I do. I proved my methods. I've tried many ways and compared notes. Different nute companies different amounts might be needed but the concept doesn't change. You only give the plant what it needs and it needs more N than most brands give it during early to mid flower and none mention you might need more or how to get it.
 
Resinhound

Resinhound

Well-Known Member
Look,excessive potassium will reduce the uptake of nitrogen,magnesium and manganese.Molasses contains tons of potassium and you are using a tablespoon with every feeding,its called nutrient antagonism.Your level of k isnt enough to cause a severe toxicity,but it seems like its enough to cause antagonism of other nutrients.Either go full organic with amended soil and feed molasses occasionally and plain water all the rest of the time.Or use bottled nutrients but you dont need both.And it looks to me that you have deficiencies of all 3 of those nutrients I mentioned.

Im convinced 90% of deficiencies are attributable to excessive use of bloom booster type nutrients(namely P and K),this causes alot of other important nutrients to be unavailable to your plant.

Dont need that much cal mag,since you ammended with lime already.What type of lime did you use and how much?

Id use a mixture of the grow and bloom through flower after the first or second week and nothing else.
 
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