PC on the down low, Grow

Bitches ain't nothing but...


  • Total voters
    42

DankTankerous

Well-Known Member
Played some disc golf today and found a few weeds plants just growing out in the open. My guess is people threw their seeds out. Anyways rescued 2 although one is dead and accidently stepped on the 3 one which led me to the finding. taking it over to a friends house tonight and trying to convince him to keep it. I live in the south so winter isn't too harsh. We'll see how this goes
 

n0tmycupoftea

Well-Known Member
PS. I will making changes to the pc by adding mylar, and a reflector of some sort to revirt 50% of the light that is not going towards the plant. There's a dude on here that has some pretty convincing and interesting opinions on growing with cfl's so i'm going to look into that. I'll put his link on the bottom. He's been on here before and does blog posts. interesting stuff. I'm also going to cut nutrients out. I burned my plant last time around and burning Auto's isn't very good and skips days which are essential growth in an autoflower strains life. I do want to buy some badass organic soil though and just use that. Maybe some garrett juice, which isn't fertilizer but helps the bacteria in the roots and soil? Oh and I'm going to add one last LED light and that's it for that. I'll make another thread and showcase it off when it happens. Right now i'm trying to focus on paying off my credit card debt and moving in with my girlfriend.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/how-to-get-huge-dense-sticky-buds-using-cfls-only.789012/
Congrats on the harvest! You can definitely get more than an ounce from a small tower pc grow (I have done it numerous times if you check out my older threads). Skip the mylar (unless you're strapped for cash) and head straight to orca or panda film (it'll run you $15 as oppose to the $1 mylar sheet you can pick up at Walmart/Home Depot/Lowes), trust me on this I made the switch and the yield makes a WORLD of difference; you'll also notice how brighter the inside of your box will be.

Also with the drying/curing... it'll differ from house to house, setup to setup, state to state, but there was a very informative article/post put up on here when I first started by one of the top grow heads here (don't see him posting too much nowadays; I'll dig for it and repost here tomorrow when I find it), but you wanna dry for at the very least 1-2 weeks before you throw them in jars and start burping (then again I don't know what the temp and humidity levels are in your box, so I can't give exact estimates).

The best way to do this on a budget is to stick your buds in paper bags (paper will absorb the moisture a lot quicker than air drying; unless you have some sort of small fan or constant air circulation in that box of yours). I've done numerous side by side tests, in fact that's all I did when I first started out because of the amount of myths and lack of information on the subject. After about a week of being in the paper bag they should be sort of crispy... like when you squeeze them you should be able to feel the roughness of the leaves and feel a very slight crunch; that's when you know they're ready to be cured. Also a good thing to do is take pictures. You'll notice a very subtle color change difference between weed that is ready and weed that is not ready. The hue/saturation of the green turns lighter.

It's been proven scientifically (got a chance to check out a testing lab in San Francisco when I interned at Parnassus Hospital through UCSF) that curing bud increases potency; fact. The way THC and CBD and all the cannabinoids are processed and their cycles work is through humidity and temperature. Control those things and you'll have dank ass weed. Every cannabinoid in weed, just like proteins in general, run their course through their respective cycles and denature through heat and humidity, regardless of whether you harvested at 90/10, 80/20, 50/50 cloudy/amber trichs. If you don't take care of how you dry and cure them then they'll never reach their full potential (which in some cases and to some individuals it doesn't matter). Cloudy and amber and clear trichs just let you know how far along the cycle each cannabinoid is at during the stage of the plant. People say to wait for cloudy or amber because that's when THC/CBD content is the highest in production. There are several cannabinoids in marijuana that are still being mapped. Anyways, the article I read had these rules.

1) When you harvest your plant you're assuming that net water weight that the plant is still holding is about 80-100%
2) Generally, you're going to lose about 60-80% of you're total net wet weight through the drying/curing process
3) When you harvest your plant, because of the amount of water it still holds, the humidity (if you jar them quickly) is going to be way high; you should assume that humidity from a fresh cut plant is also around 80-100%
4) Drying should take the humidity levels from 80-100% down to about 50-60%; the idea behind this is you don't want your weed to be left in an environment where it can potentially grow mold as well as slowly letting the cannabinoids run through their cycle (sort of like the Krebs Cycle; if I recall correctly)
5) Once the humidity level drops down within range where the potential for mold is no longer a problem you can jar them and slowly burp them. The idea behind burping is there is still water remaining in the plant that it needs to get rid of to be some primo even-burning smoke; while yet again still giving the cannabinoids time to run through their cycle and reach their full potential. So the way you do this is leave it in the jar for a couple of days and then open it, releasing the excess humidity that has built up due to water loss and then seal it back up. I've been told you should do this as slowly as possible and I've done it in increments of 10%. So bud reaches 60% humidity, toss them in a jar, monitor humidity, humidity will spike, burp jar down to 50%, monitor humidity, humidity will spike, burp jar, etc. all the way down to 40%. Last I read 40% is the number you wanna hit for most of the cannabinoids to be ready and active.

It's a lot of work, however a cigar humidor company called Boveda has recently taken interest in cannabis and has developed a similar pack that keeps cigars at the right humidity for cannabis... and surprise... that humidity level that they sell their packets... 40%. I picked up a pack from Amazon for like $20 (I think?). It's pretty much a toss the pack in your jar and forget about it until the humidity reaches 40% which could take 2-3 weeks depending on how wet your bud is.

That's how you're 'suppose' to properly dry and cure them, but to each their own. I know I do it a couple of times here and there because no one likes waiting, but I've done side by side tests and the smoke difference is night and day.

I know this was a lot and I may be off with how I recalled things (it's been 4yrs), so I can admit to being corrected, but I will definitely hit this post back up once I find all those articles/info. I think it's only right you get quality info it being your first grow and all.

There's also nothing wrong with smoking if you need to lol. Everybody says not to, but I can openly admit when I'm hurting for it I'll smoke some semi-dried weed granted it's not the best.

*Forgot to add. Since the wet water loss has been studied in plants and is said to be around that % of 60-80, you can logically assume that you can simply keep taking weights every now and then until 60-80% of your original net weight has been lost and assume that it's ready to be smoked. I've done this a couple of times and it's been fairly spot on, again that's not saying that you didn't lost some cannabinoids due to degradation.

So for your 81.8g wet weight you could assume...

81.8 x .8 = 65.44
81.8 - 65.44 = 16.36g dry

or you could use 60% instead of 80.
 
Last edited:

DankTankerous

Well-Known Member
Congrats on the harvest! You can definitely get more than an ounce from a small tower pc grow (I have done it numerous times if you check out my older threads). Skip the mylar (unless you're strapped for cash) and head straight to orca or panda film (it'll run you $15 as oppose to the $1 mylar sheet you can pick up at Walmart/Home Depot/Lowes), trust me on this I made the switch and the yield makes a WORLD of difference; you'll also notice how brighter the inside of your box will be.or you could use 60% instead of 80.
Dude thank you for all your advice. Dually fucking noted. Right now i'm living at my parents for right now but once i get my place i'm going to start again
 

n0tmycupoftea

Well-Known Member
Here's some of the info I had promised. Still digging for the rest. I only took a snip of the table in the article, if anyone wants the full article hit me up.







So a quick breakdown of the table since there was no real key in the article. 'Seizure' is the term they use for the sample cannabis resin they were testing, they had 3 different runs ranging from R1-R3. Table 1 shows the initial tested THC, CBN, and CBD content of each sample. Table 2 shows the decay of each sample in the given storage condition tested (darkness at 4 degreees Celsius vs laboratory light at 22 degrees Celsius; not natural light or a grow light they had some spec for the light they used but I forgot).

The findings were that THC, CBD, and CBN content in samples that were exposed to light at 22 degrees decayed much faster than that of the ones stored in darkness at 4 degrees. They also concluded that cannabis stored in natural light and ambient temperatures, as well as complete darkness at cooler temperatures, would result in faster decay. I don't know about that conclusion part of it since I wasn't able to find a follow up or previous article regarding complete darkness and natural light. It also shows that THC, CBD, and CBN do decay over time even in a controlled environment.
 

DankTankerous

Well-Known Member
Here's some of the info I had promised. Still digging for the rest. I only took a snip of the table in the article, if anyone wants the full article hit me up.







So a quick breakdown of the table since there was no real key in the article. 'Seizure' is the term they use for the sample cannabis resin they were testing, they had 3 different runs ranging from R1-R3. Table 1 shows the initial tested THC, CBN, and CBD content of each sample. Table 2 shows the decay of each sample in the given storage condition tested (darkness at 4 degreees Celsius vs laboratory light at 22 degrees Celsius; not natural light or a grow light they had some spec for the light they used but I forgot).

The findings were that THC, CBD, and CBN content in samples that were exposed to light at 22 degrees decayed much faster than that of the ones stored in darkness at 4 degrees. They also concluded that cannabis stored in natural light and ambient temperatures, as well as complete darkness at cooler temperatures, would result in faster decay. I don't know about that conclusion part of it since I wasn't able to find a follow up or previous article regarding complete darkness and natural light. It also shows that THC, CBD, and CBN do decay over time even in a controlled environment.
Hey i'm trying to find your pc grow but it's not letting go to the link on your signature.
 

n0tmycupoftea

Well-Known Member
Hey i'm trying to find your pc grow but it's not letting go to the link on your signature.
Ya, sorry about that, RIU only allows 2 active links so the bottom two got bumped out. Here they are if you're still interested. LOTS of mistakes were made and a lot of experimenting with things that people were posting on other forums and stuff I was reading in articles.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/n0tmycupofteas-104w-diffuser-grow.720993/
https://www.rollitup.org/t/n0tmycupofteas-pc-grow-g13-labs-northern-lights-x-skunk-dinafem-critical-auto.645953/

Oh and to answer your question... genetics would be my answer. I've seen the same strains I grew on other forums and even on here that were so iced out they made cash money look like bums.
 

n0tmycupoftea

Well-Known Member
I have to humble myself a bit here. Revisited my old grows and actually saw a Boveda pack I had used... RH 62%, not 40%. I'm an idiot, but I could've sworn I had adopted the 40% from somewhere... back to digging I guess and sorry again for the misguided info...
 

DankTankerous

Well-Known Member
Good job on your grow,real slick way of growing.
I grow in a closet so I'm kind of partial to small grows,
Same here man, I love ingenuity and creativity when it comes to growing. Plus it also helps with Cannabis consumption and conserving. In the, hopefully, legal future I would love to have a small collective where people could come by and purchase what they want. Ya know kinda like that neighbor that grows fresh veggies and fruits and sells them. I don't know what country you hail from, but it's insane that my forefathers demanded that this be grown, and now this is looked at as the disease of society.
 

farmerfischer

Well-Known Member
Im
Same here man, I love ingenuity and creativity when it comes to growing. Plus it also helps with Cannabis consumption and conserving. In the, hopefully, legal future I would love to have a small collective where people could come by and purchase what they want. Ya know kinda like that neighbor that grows fresh veggies and fruits and sells them. I don't know what country you hail from, but it's insane that my forefathers demanded that this be grown, and now this is looked at as the disease of society.
Im in the u.s. and live in a medical state
 

farmerfischer

Well-Known Member
I'm learning something everytime I grow, the cool deal with this place is all the different styles of growing and the different legitimate people (not trolls) you can learn from
 

fishdeth

Well-Known Member
you keep it in a plastic bag? how long do you dry it for?
Nah, I made a custom drying box and had the cuttings in there drying and one day they were real wet, then a cold front came thru and the air was SO dry, it almost ruined the nugs.
I quick trimmed, (most of the fan leaves still on) and got them into bags right away to get some moisture back into them.
Once they started hydrating a little I got them into black tinted Mason jars with a Bovida 62% in each.
The 2 way hydration is a cool thing.
20151107_084422_resized.jpg
 

DankTankerous

Well-Known Member
Hey y'all it's been a while, I'll be starting another thread here in a week or two. The Dank Tank is coming back with a few changes. This time around i'll be growing a mystery Cannabis plant that was found in a Disc Golf park, just a random spot where someone threw seeds. It's a new park so it hadn't been trampled down, however I don't think it's going to make it. I did start a seed from some schwag a friend of mine had. It'll be nice not growing an autoflower because now i'll have a lot more control of the growth as well as time it starts to flower. I will be changing up the light situation and adding a reflective liner. Anywho, hopefully this starts going in the next week or so. I hope everybody has had good holidays!

-DT
 

DankTankerous

Well-Known Member
Congrats on the harvest! You can definitely get more than an ounce from a small tower pc grow (I have done it numerous times if you check out my older threads). Skip the mylar (unless you're strapped for cash) and head straight to orca or panda film (it'll run you $15 as oppose to the $1 mylar sheet you can pick up at Walmart/Home Depot/Lowes), trust me on this I made the switch and the yield makes a WORLD of difference; you'll also notice how brighter the inside of your box will be.

Also with the drying/curing... it'll differ from house to house, setup to setup, state to state, but there was a very informative article/post put up on here when I first started by one of the top grow heads here (don't see him posting too much nowadays; I'll dig for it and repost here tomorrow when I find it), but you wanna dry for at the very least 1-2 weeks before you throw them in jars and start burping (then again I don't know what the temp and humidity levels are in your box, so I can't give exact estimates).

The best way to do this on a budget is to stick your buds in paper bags (paper will absorb the moisture a lot quicker than air drying; unless you have some sort of small fan or constant air circulation in that box of yours). I've done numerous side by side tests, in fact that's all I did when I first started out because of the amount of myths and lack of information on the subject. After about a week of being in the paper bag they should be sort of crispy... like when you squeeze them you should be able to feel the roughness of the leaves and feel a very slight crunch; that's when you know they're ready to be cured. Also a good thing to do is take pictures. You'll notice a very subtle color change difference between weed that is ready and weed that is not ready. The hue/saturation of the green turns lighter.

It's been proven scientifically (got a chance to check out a testing lab in San Francisco when I interned at Parnassus Hospital through UCSF) that curing bud increases potency; fact. The way THC and CBD and all the cannabinoids are processed and their cycles work is through humidity and temperature. Control those things and you'll have dank ass weed. Every cannabinoid in weed, just like proteins in general, run their course through their respective cycles and denature through heat and humidity, regardless of whether you harvested at 90/10, 80/20, 50/50 cloudy/amber trichs. If you don't take care of how you dry and cure them then they'll never reach their full potential (which in some cases and to some individuals it doesn't matter). Cloudy and amber and clear trichs just let you know how far along the cycle each cannabinoid is at during the stage of the plant. People say to wait for cloudy or amber because that's when THC/CBD content is the highest in production. There are several cannabinoids in marijuana that are still being mapped. Anyways, the article I read had these rules.

1) When you harvest your plant you're assuming that net water weight that the plant is still holding is about 80-100%
2) Generally, you're going to lose about 60-80% of you're total net wet weight through the drying/curing process
3) When you harvest your plant, because of the amount of water it still holds, the humidity (if you jar them quickly) is going to be way high; you should assume that humidity from a fresh cut plant is also around 80-100%
4) Drying should take the humidity levels from 80-100% down to about 50-60%; the idea behind this is you don't want your weed to be left in an environment where it can potentially grow mold as well as slowly letting the cannabinoids run through their cycle (sort of like the Krebs Cycle; if I recall correctly)
5) Once the humidity level drops down within range where the potential for mold is no longer a problem you can jar them and slowly burp them. The idea behind burping is there is still water remaining in the plant that it needs to get rid of to be some primo even-burning smoke; while yet again still giving the cannabinoids time to run through their cycle and reach their full potential. So the way you do this is leave it in the jar for a couple of days and then open it, releasing the excess humidity that has built up due to water loss and then seal it back up. I've been told you should do this as slowly as possible and I've done it in increments of 10%. So bud reaches 60% humidity, toss them in a jar, monitor humidity, humidity will spike, burp jar down to 50%, monitor humidity, humidity will spike, burp jar, etc. all the way down to 40%. Last I read 40% is the number you wanna hit for most of the cannabinoids to be ready and active.

It's a lot of work, however a cigar humidor company called Boveda has recently taken interest in cannabis and has developed a similar pack that keeps cigars at the right humidity for cannabis... and surprise... that humidity level that they sell their packets... 40%. I picked up a pack from Amazon for like $20 (I think?). It's pretty much a toss the pack in your jar and forget about it until the humidity reaches 40% which could take 2-3 weeks depending on how wet your bud is.

That's how you're 'suppose' to properly dry and cure them, but to each their own. I know I do it a couple of times here and there because no one likes waiting, but I've done side by side tests and the smoke difference is night and day.

I know this was a lot and I may be off with how I recalled things (it's been 4yrs), so I can admit to being corrected, but I will definitely hit this post back up once I find all those articles/info. I think it's only right you get quality info it being your first grow and all.

There's also nothing wrong with smoking if you need to lol. Everybody says not to, but I can openly admit when I'm hurting for it I'll smoke some semi-dried weed granted it's not the best.

*Forgot to add. Since the wet water loss has been studied in plants and is said to be around that % of 60-80, you can logically assume that you can simply keep taking weights every now and then until 60-80% of your original net weight has been lost and assume that it's ready to be smoked. I've done this a couple of times and it's been fairly spot on, again that's not saying that you didn't lost some cannabinoids due to degradation.

So for your 81.8g wet weight you could assume...

81.8 x .8 = 65.44
81.8 - 65.44 = 16.36g dry

or you could use 60% instead of 80.
Where did you find Orca film for 15 bucks? the cheapes i'm seeing is like 70 bones
 

DankTankerous

Well-Known Member
Wassup y'all, I popped 3 seeds in peat pellets and put them inside a clear plastic to-go cups. Hopefully they pop, and pop pretty soon. I planted a seed in one peat pellet last weak, and it didn't even crack. I don't think these seeds are old, so send some good vibes my way for females. If all three sprout, i'm going to plant 2 in the pot on opposing sides and hope at least one of them is a female. I don't know what i'll do with the third seedling, but we'll cross that bridge once we get to it. I did buy a brand new bag of soil and it's pretty fantastic, can't wait to see how the plants react to it. This will be an all-Organic grow, except for the Superthrive. I'll cut it off a 3-2 weeks before chopping. I have high hopes for this time around, now that I have a full grow under my belt. Also that this plant isn't an auto so it won't be as sensitive to nutrients as the Blue Mystic was. Although, I don't know how tempermental it is, I'm willing to bet that it's nowhere near Blue Mystic. Plus, I can manicure and cut off growth I don't want or need. Here's Hoping y'all!

-DT
 

n0tmycupoftea

Well-Known Member
Where did you find Orca film for 15 bucks? the cheapes i'm seeing is like 70 bones
Sorry may have been a bit misleading there. I use panda film and that was what cost me $15. In terms of whether panda or orca is better I dunno. Panda film quotes reflects 90% of light omitted and orca I think quotes 96%. But all you're really paying for is the additional footage. Same size panda film will run you the same amount that orca film will (+/- $10-15). My local shop carried them in 10x10. Amazon has it for $16 free shipping.
 

DankTankerous

Well-Known Member
Sorry may have been a bit misleading there. I use panda film and that was what cost me $15. In terms of whether panda or orca is better I dunno. Panda film quotes reflects 90% of light omitted and orca I think quotes 96%. But all you're really paying for is the additional footage. Same size panda film will run you the same amount that orca film will (+/- $10-15). My local shop carried them in 10x10. Amazon has it for $16 free shipping.
No worries brotha. I'll definitely hit up Amazon though. Are you on other Cannabis forum websites?
 
Top