PH dropping quickly, cant get away from 4.6

mangerton

Member
You guys must really yield a shit ton to put up with all this crap in hydro lmao. Yield doesn't seem worth the headache at all not to mention its synthetic.
no just noobs make it look hard by overcompensating it . you literally need 3 products. a+b nutes cal mag and ph down plus water that isnt shit.
it being synthetic is a different topic but its no different . npk and all micro nutrients are the same to a plant regardless on how its absorbed. i say growing soil indoors is way harder and allot more guess work
 

Aqua Man

Well-Known Member
no just noobs make it look hard by overcompensating it . you literally need 3 products. a+b nutes cal mag and ph down plus water that isnt shit.
it being synthetic is a different topic but its no different . npk and all micro nutrients are the same to a plant regardless on how its absorbed. i say growing soil indoors is way harder and allot more guess work
A+B nutes if they can provide a buffer. Or use tap water.

Hell I don't even do that I use a 1 part and tap water with some ph down
 

DirtyStrawHat

Active Member
you will never have a stable res with that many roots in such a small bucket. its more roots then water
this is my first auto with this much of a root system, i honestly underestimated its potential. I had been thinking the same thing when i pulled it out.. it makes the rez way smaller making swings super dramatic possibly.. roots have like 80% of the bucket now it looks like.
 

DirtyStrawHat

Active Member
why don't you just move it into a bigger res? like a 27 gal home depot tote or a 30 gal trashcan.
i love the idea of running something bigger in my tent, i was thinking about going out and grabbing a larger cooler

somthing like this
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Coleman-50-Quart-Xtreme-5-Day-Heavy-Duty-Cooler-with-Wheels/149949357

but i have an 8g tote from my last run and it did me well, it was just to omuch room for my last auto.. do you think rootball is going to need somthing more? this seems like a larger strain of auto as its really filling its home out well... also i need to be super quiet.. my worst enemy is droning vibration through the floor so the bigger the rez the more air bubbles i need which usually means larger louder pump so i was trying to avoid
 

DirtyStrawHat

Active Member
I had been taking a look at the data logs from the past 2 days somthing seemed off, I find my light timer was off, and running my lights 24 hours.. I recently had a fault in my house and had to resort to using an old 2 prong outlet to run my entire setup off a jump pack and i had to take off the 3 prong timer and run the light straight.. i had forgotten to put it back on.. so 2 days full 24 hours instead of 18/6, although temps and hum were in check this deffanitally played a role in the drooping, would this explain the ph swing? my plant is stressed heavily today ph is back down to 4.5, but it will have a new home soon
 

DailyBlastin

Well-Known Member
I didnt read the whole thread just the first page, justw anted to drop a tidbit here that using a 4gal res could be half your problem here, such a small amount of water can be hard to dial in, why not upgrade yourself to a 10 or 15gal barrel?
 

DirtyStrawHat

Active Member
yeah the 5g res idnt cutting it i dont understand how these guys are doing runs in 5g paint buckets... will be in somthing larger today
 

DailyBlastin

Well-Known Member
yeah the 5g res idnt cutting it i dont understand how these guys are doing runs in 5g paint buckets... will be in somthing larger today
most people now dont even bother with DWC (which is what i assume your doing even though you havent really specified that) they do RDWC where their plant buckets are all connected to a control bucket and the water between all of them constantly recirculates. Also you mentioned somewhere in here that you applied nutes through the top of the plant??? never... never again. nutes get mixed directly into the water, preferably one nute at a time with enough time in between each to allow it to fully mix in, if youre using any kind of silica product that needs to be added first.
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
Ppm is at 118 ec is 236 us/cm water is at 65 air is 73 .. what is going on with my ec?View attachment 4440107View attachment 4440108
I think you my friend got pythium root rot! Most common issue with DWC. I use Polysorbate20 and chlorine when I need to treat an outbreak. Last couple of years I've helped friends combating this issue.

Polysorbate20 work as a strong surfactant removing cyanobacterias ability to grasp on to roots, linings and walls. Chlorine is used for oxidation and sterilization. I run 100ppm of Polysorbate and 5-10ppm of chlorine. I also usually add some light feed and run this solution for a couple of days before doing a res change.

I have never used H2O2 but I've seen many people having successful results with it. It's a very strong oxidizer so it's easier to overdo and burn the plants with it.
 

Kushash

Well-Known Member
Heat/light stress slows down transpiration and photosynthesis and intern nutrient uptake. You ppm are probably rising meaning the solution is becoming more concentrated and as nutrients we use are generally more acidic your ph will drop as this happens. do you have a ppm meter?
Wanted to ask a question after things got resolved.
I enjoy your posts and knowledge.
Is it correct that heat/light stress slows down transpiration?
I thought heat/light stress increases transpiration.
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
Wanted to ask a question after things got resolved.
I enjoy your posts and knowledge.
Is it correct that heat/light stress slows down transpiration?
I thought heat/light stress increases transpiration.
Yes transpiration rate increases with light/heat stress. Photosynthesis slows down because the plant draws nutrient from nearest point of entry trying to hold on to water/moisture. Potassium deficiency is almost always a result of light/heat stress.
 
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