DirtyStrawHat
Active Member
can i use tap water through my pur water filter? my tap water is heavy chlorine
PH dropping quickly, cant get away from 4.6
- Thread starter DirtyStrawHat
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rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
remo wants to make money. how? by selling more nutes.
i just finished a run and my EC never went over 0.7 with 0.2 of it well water. less is more.
DirtyStrawHat
Active Member
Will take advice for next feed
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
think of it another way:
if your plant "eats" 200 ppm per day, why put 800 ppm in your res? maybe put 300 to be safe. and at what point do you get nute burn? 200? nope. 300? highly doubtful. 800? could be 1300? probably 2000? guaranteed
rustyshaclkferd
Well-Known Member
I keep hear8ng jackw 3-2-1 is great and easy to manipulate...i have only a little experience with it.
Plant marvel is a great supplier if salts. they create salt blends.
I have 4 years experience using plant marvel salts.
2 tanks , 1 of minors and then 1 of the majors and a i think a few minors that cant be mixed in the minor tank.
rkymtnman
Well-Known Member
do you have target NPK for veg and or bloom that you care to share? i'm trying Fatmans ratios ATM.
rustyshaclkferd
Well-Known Member
A 3-2-1(Grow-Micro-Bloom) ratio of Green Planet 3 part is what i use in veg and Bloom 1-2-3 (G-M-B) at 1500 PPM from clone to finish. With boosters in flower raising it to 2k for 4 weeks.
I foilar spray kelps and humic/fulvics and also use PK boosters and organic additives...
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DirtyStrawHat
Active Member
I think i may have found my ph issue. the clay pebbles i had been dumping nutes through earlier on in the grow when i first switched to flower nutes had taken on the PH. condensation build up and drip back into the rez. Nutes made it go 4.5 ph, when i switched it, i tried to flush it how i could. than i started dumping water with great white down it to combat a possible root problem.. this made the pebbles take on a higher ph... i just took some out and let them soak in a small cup of water.. sure enough the pebbles are changing the ph to 7 with a bench test of a few brand new clay pebble unsoaked and a small cup of pre soaked and ph'd pebbles.. Im guessing the clay pebbles take on the PH of whatever is ran through them?
I am switching from great white to garden friendly bennys this week, i will be swapping out however many clay pebbles i can get without disturbing the roots, any advice?
I am switching from great white to garden friendly bennys this week, i will be swapping out however many clay pebbles i can get without disturbing the roots, any advice?
DirtyStrawHat
Active Member
also, when the clay pebbles dry there is a white residue left behind
mangerton
Member
i dont think this would work for your res but i have an access flap on my bucket lid so i can put my ppm and ph meters in with out removing the lid and also for filling and topping off. my 1st set up i found once the plant is in the scrog net its a pain to slide the lid to the side and i dont like dumping nutes over the top of the clap pebbles. the white stuff is dried up nutrients its normal i get allot on my res walls . you can wash and re use the clay pebbles over and over though . i like to blench mine at the end of every run then let them dry over a week before re using along with the air lines and air stones plus res.. only thing i find that needs to be replaced every run is the net pots and rockwool.
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Yes, you can. Just let the water sit in an open-faced container for at least 24-48 hours, stirring somewhat regularly. The chlorine will evaporate.
To speed up the process significantly, boil the water for 6-8 minutes for the same effect.
DirtyStrawHat
Active Member
I was having the same issue when i was still running the 5g waterfarm cooler, i made an access window on the new rez for that reason it was a pain disturbing the scrog and lst.. i feel like my stones are holding onto too much shit i didnt have these issues with these nutes previously
Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
there's a huge difference between organical N out of urea and mineralic nitrate. the latter is unhealthy to consume. esp. if weed isn't cured proporly. hard dry and nitrit-bingo.
sandman83
Well-Known Member
so, homebrew trick is just to use a campden tablet in the water, anyone have any experience with those?
Specifically the potassium metabisulfite version, just leaves a bit of potassium behind and neutralizes the chlorine and chloramine.
Don't misquote me. I'm talking nitrate. If you wanna pick at it then yes you are right but ammonium is also broken down by denitrifying bacteria into nitrite and then nitrate.
Mineral nitrates are no different than those broken down by bacteria. Nitrate is nitrate... Is that better Mr picky?
You are seriously saying nitrate is unhealthy? You on fucking glue? I can't take a word you say seriously now.
The plants require an extra process to be able to use ammonium and no more than 5% of nitrogen should be in the form of ammonium.
Get your shit straight if your gonna nit pick
Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) also works
rustyshaclkferd
Well-Known Member
Why people quibble over salt formulation is beyond me... your plants dont care about source only availability and porportions
If your plants are healthy and the grower is happy with price per gallon... let it ride
Not saying Kass is but ive defiently see a lot of class warfare over nutrients... and other shit
Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
hey man, Im sorry but I don't quite get where your frustration does stem from..? I just thought that statement "N is N" is wrong under a certain perspective. And sorry I can't remember any mentioning of nitrate but see, I'm currently relaxing quite a bit and may not be able to follow the line of a thread 100% esp. if late... so offense ment...
but it's actually quite interesting to see how many different forms of N is available to a plant (even foliar) and that may matter under a different setup eg. outdoor, soil....
Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
these clay pebbles suffer some residue from their production - if it's not washed after production it'll be covered with small dusty particles that draw your towards alkaline if you shake them in it. Or poir water over them. I had to consecutively wash mine with RO water 3 times until they were (almost) free of ec charged stuff. After that they're like neutral but it offers quite some surface area where minerals can stay. Sort of like carbonash, but nowhere near strong.
maybe do you have hard water?
I agree. The only differences between organics and minerals are. The microbiology of the soil, the sustainability of the soil and the availability of the nutrients. There may be a few more but those are the the majors.
My bad just get frustrated with the organic vs mineral nutrients I probably took it the wrong way.