pH fluctuation in DWC...Yes, I have used the search button...

Moishe

Active Member
Tap water isn't a bad idea really. Especially if filtered. If you'd like to cut it with RO or Distilled water, that may help if your tap PPM is above 200. However, unless you are dialed in to your strain and know what you're doing, I wouldn't recommend using pure RO/Distilled water.
One good practice to have is to mix your entire solution for your system and to pH it... then you let it sit with an airstone for 6 hours, and gradually readjust the pH. Also, if you are using a bluelab pen, it's a good idea to let it sit for 5 minutes to get a stable pH reading. Another practice that isn't so bad is to find the sweet spot for your reservoir (the one that isn't in your active system. Along with going by the 30% trick explained earlier, you may want to set your pH a little bit closer to 5.0 to help cut your pH back down as water from your reservoir enters your system. However, if you have a big res, too low of a pH can get you a bunch of crazy weird shit to build up around your reservoir. So keep everything in check.

"Note: it is not a good idea to use distilled water in your tank. By definition, distilled water has essentially no KH. That means that adding even a little bit of acid will change the pH significantly (stressing fish). Because of its instability, distilled (or any essentially pure water) is never used directly. Tap water or other salts must first be added to it in order to increase its GH and KH."

Once you get everything dialed in and you understand what your plants use/need and what nutrient use does to your pH, using a Reverse Osmosis/distilled solution system isn't a bad idea. pH swings are normal though. Just learn what is in your nutrient solution, and what those nutrients do to your pH. Then you can start troubleshooting your own system. It's hard to tell you what the problem is without having an identical system running without the same problems.
Just keep an eye on stuff. Write it down. Adjust accordingly. Good luck!

Edit: another system you could employ is to pH your premixed solution to 5.0 over 3 hours, then gradually adjust it back to 5.8 while it bubbles over the next 4-6 hours.
 

hydroMD

Well-Known Member
Good post Moishe.

I have the same problem with hydro but I've learned to deal. I bubble my nutes 24 hours before res change. I also started paying attention to the rise of ph and ec over 3-4 days and set each a bit low at first, letting them rise into the correct range on their own.

Adding a water top off will help too. Your plants drink water and no nutes sometimes which will make levels creep up. Replacing the used water will help keep your ppm more steady. After bubbling res for 24 hours and adding in its adjusted doses, my ph fluctuates for two days and is steady thereon after.
 

esinohio

Well-Known Member
Plenty of great posts here. By bubbling your water before you top off or do res changes you bubble off some of the chlorine or chlorine compounds your local water company uses. If you just let the bucket set for a few hours you'll notice little bubbles. Give it a tap and rake a wiff. That's chlorine. That free chlorine in the water will mess with the pH. I just keep a bucket bubbling for top offs and such. Never had a pH migration issue since.

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Tim1987

Well-Known Member
I've actually found, in hydro, a slow swing to be a very healthy thing. Check out this chart. It's good for the ph to rise by next top up, or change. So it gets a nicely balanced diet. As people say, you could have the best nutrients, if ph isn't right, the plant just can't grab what it needs.images.jpg
On the flip side. If it's swaying within hours, it's something in your water.
Either too many nutrients, or hard water.
Things like excess calcium and carbonates in hard water can keep it from coming down.
Hope it helps.
 

Mrwest806

Member
I've actually found, in hydro, a slow swing to be a very healthy thing. Check out this chart. It's good for the ph to rise by next top up, or change. So it gets a nicely balanced diet. As people say, you could have the best nutrients, if ph isn't right, the plant just can't grab what it needs.View attachment 4109858
On the flip side. If it's swaying within hours, it's something in your water.
Either too many nutrients, or hard water.
Things like excess calcium and carbonates in hard water can keep it from coming down.
Hope it helps.
Yes thanks, 1st grow 5 1/2weeks into flower so im nervous as hell to screw up this close to the finish line.
 

Tim1987

Well-Known Member
Yes thanks, 1st grow 5 1/2weeks into flower so im nervous as hell to screw up this close to the finish line.
Sounds sweet then.
IMHO
There's a time, just before your plant ripens, that, the plant eats less. I believe this to be the perfect time to start cutting back on ppms, to get a nice gradual flush, over a week or two. You'll know its happening if your ppms in the res, aren't falling as much, when you check.
You'll know if your plant's feeding, if the ppm's are falling. I dont generally like to top up with nutrient each time. I generally just top it of with water. I like to know the ppms are falling, ph is rising, and that the plant is feeding.
Just my 2cents though.
Everyone is different.
Hydro is a huge debate.
 

Mrwest806

Member
I think I'm at that slow spot only lowered 20ppms over 48hrs. So you think i should just start topping off with water only to start a slow flush to make sure all nutes are used?
 

Tim1987

Well-Known Member
Wait until your ppms aren't falling.
Dont up your feed. Keep it the same, for as long as your plant is healthy and feeding.
Once it slows right down, start the cut.
Flushing is pretty damn quick in DWC.
I know the exact feeling. You wanna just dry it, and smoke it. But you're likely gonna get up to 30% more weight, in these last two weeks. Let alone the resin development, and flavour.
Just be patient.
Been there done that.
Imho save yourself the grief.
The last 2 weeks can be the most enjoyable time.
Its just the excitement, that makes it so hard, to have patience.
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
Alright thanks, do you recommend the full week of flush in the end or just several days?
Thanks for the help!
this is what i do at the end.

when i see the trichomes are mostly cloudy with some amber, i give them 48 hrs of darkness. at the beginning of that time, i dump the res and fill up with RO or distilled. don't even bother pH'ing it. they are gonna die soon. every 12 hours, i dump res and fill up with RO. so 4 times total.
don't turn the lights on and cut them after 48hrs.

dry them slowly and then cure them properly and you'll have some fine smoke.
 

Mrwest806

Member
20180321_173401.jpg 20180321_173434.jpglike I said, 1st grow so I hope everything looks right. But feel free to give advice or opinions and harvest predictions. Thanks


14in in height, 2 1/2 by 2 1/2ft canopy. Topped and different kinds of stress training. Just experimenting and having fun!
 
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rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
View attachment 4110635 View attachment 4110636like I said, 1st grow so I hope everything looks right. But feel free to give advice or opinions and harvest predictions. Thanks


14in in height, 2 1/2 by 2 1/2ft canopy. Topped and different kinds of stress training. Just experimenting and having fun!
lookin good. nice job training them. and yeah, they have at least 2 to 3 more weeks to go to bulk up.

some more ?s: what nutes are you using? what time frame does this strain go for?
 

Mrwest806

Member
lookin good. nice job training them. and yeah, they have at least 2 to 3 more weeks to go to bulk up.

some more ?s: what nutes are you using? what time frame does this strain go for?
I'm used General hydroponics 3 part. As of now only using dry koolbloom, flora nector and hydro guard due to water temp getting up to 73°F
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
I'm used General hydroponics 3 part. As of now only using dry koolbloom, flora nector and hydro guard due to water temp getting up to 73°F
i've never used the KB or the Nectar but i do know the KB is super strong so be careful with it. you don't want to burn the crap out of her this close to the finish.
i'm using the 3 part for vegging and then switch over to maxibloom for flower.
 

Mrwest806

Member
i've never used the KB or the Nectar but i do know the KB is super strong so be careful with it. you don't want to burn the crap out of her this close to the finish.
i'm using the 3 part for vegging and then switch over to maxibloom for flower.
Feeding lightly because it is very concentrated. Maxibloom is similar to liquid koolbloom. I used liquid kb weeks 3-4 and switched to dry kb beginning of week 5 to stack some weight. Hopefully it works
 
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