ph help please someone

eazy147

eazy147

Active Member
TheYokel said:
You can add 1ml of damn near anything to distilled water and raise or lower it dramatically. There is nothing in the water to act as a buffer, it is literally a pure substance.

So adding even a tiny bit of anything will register that it has dropped significantly. It's just that it has dropped, but by a small ppm... so adding even a tiny amount of an Upper will change it dramatically also... nutes get confusing.
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Lol I see, so using tap water that's been out for 3 days might be better huh?
 
eazy147

eazy147

Active Member
I'm learning a lot. Ima start writing these things down. Yo I'm about to ko. Hope fully I can run into you Tom for more chat n help because your helping a lot. Thanks again
 
howsitgrowin420

howsitgrowin420

Well-Known Member
eazy147 said:
So I get confused about this ph stuff. So what do u test your ph on? What exactly r u watching for if it's not the runoff. What causes lockout
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you test and adjust the ph level of your nutrient mixture. You aren't watching it, you are setting it. I'd buy: 1) a digital ph meter, 2) Ph 7.0 and/or 4.0 for calibration 3) PhUP and 4)PhDown. You need to determine the proper PH for what you are giving and set it to that every time. Lockout happens when nutrients are given at the wrong PH, the plants can't take up the nutrients you are giving, salts build up around the roots, and the plant is further blocked from taking up what you are giving. I hope someone comes along, calls me an idiot, and then thoroughly explains lockout in a language you will not understand, but for now: lockout happens if you don't PH.

Here's a lot more words.



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2 8 bulb t5s, 4 600w HPS in XXXL knockoff hoods cooled with 2 6inch blowers (vortex and hydrofarm 450cfm). ProMix HP in 5-10 gal, breathable pots (mostly 7gal). During veg, 12TSP of Fox Farms Grow Big and one capful of Superthrive to 4 gallons of water. That mixture ends up at about 5.0 PH, so I add PH UP until I reach 6.8 (6.5-6.8 is what I want for ProMixHP). I use a digital meter and would not advise anyone to use strips, drops, or otherwise. A nice, digital meter is expensive (if you need waterproof, which most people do) and must be calibrated/cared for, but it is on par with a good light as one of those necessary startup costs.

One bucket (4gal) will water two plants at the peak of veg, or four plants if they are younger. At the next watering, I use just plain water that has been bubbling in a reservoir for 24hours at minimum. For me, the plain water will read about 8.0, so I add PH down until I get to 6.8 (again, what I want for my promix). At least once a month I try to get a good amount of runoff on one of those "just water" waterings.

One week prior to the flip to 12/12, I add 2TSP of Fox Farms Open Sesame to the nutrient mixture (still 6.8 PH). The first watering in flower is just water. The flower nutrients are: Fox Farms Tiger Bloom, Fossil Fuel Humic Acid, Dark Energy, and whichever soluble I am on (open sesame, beastie blooms, or cha ching). This nutrient mixture has a very low PH, so I add a good amount of PH up to get to 6.8, I bought concentrated PH up so that I could use less, but it was more expensive.

Many people will do otherwise and say that I am starving my plant, but I switch to plain water two weeks prior to harvest (for most of my strains, they have 9 full weeks of 12/12 before the trichomes and the rest of the plant look ready to harvest).
 
eazy147

eazy147

Active Member
howsitgrowin420 said:
you test and adjust the ph level of your nutrient mixture. You aren't watching it, you are setting it. I'd buy: 1) a digital ph meter, 2) Ph 7.0 and/or 4.0 for calibration 3) PhUP and 4)PhDown. You need to determine the proper PH for what you are giving and set it to that every time. Lockout happens when nutrients are given at the wrong PH, the plants can't take up the nutrients you are giving, salts build up around the roots, and the plant is further blocked from taking up what you are giving. I hope someone comes along, calls me an idiot, and then thoroughly explains lockout in a language you will not understand, but for now: lockout happens if you don't PH.

Here's a lot more words.



-----
2 8 bulb t5s, 4 600w HPS in XXXL knockoff hoods cooled with 2 6inch blowers (vortex and hydrofarm 450cfm). ProMix HP in 5-10 gal, breathable pots (mostly 7gal). During veg, 12TSP of Fox Farms Grow Big and one capful of Superthrive to 4 gallons of water. That mixture ends up at about 5.0 PH, so I add PH UP until I reach 6.8 (6.5-6.8 is what I want for ProMixHP). I use a digital meter and would not advise anyone to use strips, drops, or otherwise. A nice, digital meter is expensive (if you need waterproof, which most people do) and must be calibrated/cared for, but it is on par with a good light as one of those necessary startup costs.

One bucket (4gal) will water two plants at the peak of veg, or four plants if they are younger. At the next watering, I use just plain water that has been bubbling in a reservoir for 24hours at minimum. For me, the plain water will read about 8.0, so I add PH down until I get to 6.8 (again, what I want for my promix). At least once a month I try to get a good amount of runoff on one of those "just water" waterings.

One week prior to the flip to 12/12, I add 2TSP of Fox Farms Open Sesame to the nutrient mixture (still 6.8 PH). The first watering in flower is just water. The flower nutrients are: Fox Farms Tiger Bloom, Fossil Fuel Humic Acid, Dark Energy, and whichever soluble I am on (open sesame, beastie blooms, or cha ching). This nutrient mixture has a very low PH, so I add a good amount of PH up to get to 6.8, I bought concentrated PH up so that I could use less, but it was more expensive.

Many people will do otherwise and say that I am starving my plant, but I switch to plain water two weeks prior to harvest (for most of my strains, they have 9 full weeks of 12/12 before the trichomes and the rest of the plant look ready to harvest).
Click to expand...
 
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