pH level of water 7.1 - 7.2 is that good ?
- Thread starter tk86high
- Start date
Closetgardner
Well-Known Member
u in soil or hydro?? if soil then 6.4/6.8 is where u want to aim.if hydro its 5.9/6.0 your aim.if u just keep watering with that ph it was cause "lock out" and the plant will suffer
Soil , and only 0.3 - 0.4 off will cause a lock out ?
thanks
Closetgardner
Well-Known Member
does this answer your Q??
well my soils level is 6.5 so when i put 7.1 water it should equal out . anyhow i guess ill try to get the pH of the water down to 6.8 with some ph down.
Thanks
Closetgardner
Well-Known Member
test the PH of your run off.se whats comming out.each time u put 7.1 in it will slowly bring the ph of the soil up
Alexander Supertramp
Well-Known Member
My water is 7.5-7.8 and works just fine in soil unadjusted. Its the pH of the soil that matters. No matter the pH of your water going in within an hour it will buffer to the pH of your medium. And runoff pH with tell you nothing really useful. It passes through too quickly to buffer to the mediums actual pH, giving you a false reading and possibly having you chase an issue that does not exist. Your water will be just fine.
Closetgardner
Well-Known Member
ok so whats the point in charts like these if ph dont matter??? adding nutes that stabilize ph once added to your water then it wont mater what goes in.
Alexander Supertramp
Well-Known Member
The pH of your medium does matter. 6.5-7.0 are optimal for MJ but it will grow ok from the low 6s to the high 7s. When growing in soil then you need to get the pH of the medium right to begin with. No amount of pHed water will change the pH of the medium. Thats what lime, oyster shell ewc ect... are for. pH up and down solutions are intended for fish tanks and hydro, not soil. They can easily be over used in a soil grow and cause issues rather than help. Heres a chart not created by a nutrient company like your colorful example to sell products. View attachment 2290417
Closetgardner
Well-Known Member
My colorful example to sell products.haha i pulled it from google man!! lol why would i try and sell products by posting a chart to help someone????
Alexander Supertramp
Well-Known Member
I just meant your example was most likely produced by a nutrient company or the like to be catchy and sell products. Did not intend anything personal against you.
Closetgardner
Well-Known Member
oh rite sorry man!! i thought u ment i was trying to sell products DOH!!! my bad.i also thought that PH was important in soil.lol at least the range was correct
i dont have to PH anytime i use biobizz they have PH buffers.but i do ph when feeding just water.so i dont have to??? interesting
i dont have to PH anytime i use biobizz they have PH buffers.but i do ph when feeding just water.so i dont have to??? interesting
Closetgardner
Well-Known Member
is it just soil ph to keep an eye on then???
Alexander Supertramp
Well-Known Member
Getting your medium mix right prior to the grow is key when dirt bagging. Dolomite lime and earth worm castings in the mix from the start will tend the pH for you. Actually altering a mediums pH takes some time for things to react. Even powdered dolomite lime(finer the particlel the quicker the reaction)takes at least 2 weeks or better before any real changes in pH can be seen. A month or so being optimal. Earth worm castings have the great ability to raise or lower a mediums pH, which ever is needed to keep it near neutral. EWC teas during the grow also helps maintain a proper environment in the medium for your plants. Including beneficial organisms, nutrients(macro, micro and trace).
Many growers these days feel the need to use R/O water. Which after adding nutrients the pH can fall into the 5s and even lower. The amount of pH up(most contain considerable sodium)used to get it back into range can cause all sorts of issues from sodium build up in the medium. Causing a true lockout condition. My advice to all soil growers is put the pH pens away and get your mix right from the start. Growing in soil is much simpler than most think.
Many growers these days feel the need to use R/O water. Which after adding nutrients the pH can fall into the 5s and even lower. The amount of pH up(most contain considerable sodium)used to get it back into range can cause all sorts of issues from sodium build up in the medium. Causing a true lockout condition. My advice to all soil growers is put the pH pens away and get your mix right from the start. Growing in soil is much simpler than most think.
Closetgardner
Well-Known Member
Alexander, when I get back on my laptop you my friend will be given + rep. Great answer mate very helpful
YES, YES, YES !!!!!!! ^^^^^^^^
Adding lime (dolomite), will adjust and keep your soils pH adjusted and that's ALL you need to do. End of story.
No need to adjust the pH of ANY liquids going into the soil.
Wet
bullwinkle60
Well-Known Member
My ph is 7 and I've had no problems and great smoke.
Hey Got a quick question I just tried out ur idea of adding nutients and by adding just 1-2 drops it makes my pH level at 6.5-6.6 . So my question is , do u think it would be okay to add 1-2 drops each feeding , and then a normal amount once a week ? or is that gonna some how mess up my plants? thanks for the info as this is my first grow i dont want to mess it up .
Hey Got a quick question I just tried out ur idea of adding nutients and by adding just 1-2 drops it makes my pH level at 6.5-6.6 . So my question is , do u think it would be okay to add 1-2 drops each feeding , and then a normal amount once a week ? or is that gonna some how mess up my plants? thanks for the info as this is my first grow i dont want to mess it up .
10acjed
Active Member
Let the plants tell you. I put 2 - 3 drops of Ph Down in a cup of water, then just add a little of that to my water feeding to adjust Ph. I determine my soil Ph by running 1 Gal of 7.0 through for flush, then test the RO at the end by holding a cup below the container.
My last time it was 6.9, which means my soil is probably 6.7 or so, so I then brought the H20 Ph down to 6.3 - 6.4, ran that through and my RO was 6.5.
I was also using a drop of nutes to Ph down my distilled H20, but I have some over fert issues now so I am on straight H20...
My RO has been from 5.8 - 7.2, all the while my soil tester says my soil is mid 6.x so I do not go by soil Ph. I test H20 going in, and coming out and let that tell me what the soil Ph is.
My last time it was 6.9, which means my soil is probably 6.7 or so, so I then brought the H20 Ph down to 6.3 - 6.4, ran that through and my RO was 6.5.
I was also using a drop of nutes to Ph down my distilled H20, but I have some over fert issues now so I am on straight H20...
My RO has been from 5.8 - 7.2, all the while my soil tester says my soil is mid 6.x so I do not go by soil Ph. I test H20 going in, and coming out and let that tell me what the soil Ph is.