PH testers
- Thread starter mike4c4
- Start date
I've used something like it and it wasn't too accurate. If you want to probe your soil's ph, spend $60 on a Control Wizard Accurate 8.
It's fairly accurate, not withstanding that soil's ph changes as it dries, there are pockets of differing ph, etc. You have to leave it in the soil 10 minutes. If you have a lot of measurements to make, it can be tedious waiting 10 minutes for each. But, it's a handy tool. It helped me get my grow dialed in. It's one of those things that, when you need it it's handy to have. But, you won't need it much.
It comes with a whetting cloth to scuff the probe's surface before each use. When that wears out you can use steel wool.
When I got mine I wasn't thrilled with the 3/8" diameter probe. I was reluctant to jam that into my root zone. But, I'm convinced that it helps keep the soil uncompacted, better draining and aerated. I want to buy a 1/4" aluminum rod, put a rounded point on the end and use that on a regular basis to aerate my soil.
It's fairly accurate, not withstanding that soil's ph changes as it dries, there are pockets of differing ph, etc. You have to leave it in the soil 10 minutes. If you have a lot of measurements to make, it can be tedious waiting 10 minutes for each. But, it's a handy tool. It helped me get my grow dialed in. It's one of those things that, when you need it it's handy to have. But, you won't need it much.
It comes with a whetting cloth to scuff the probe's surface before each use. When that wears out you can use steel wool.
When I got mine I wasn't thrilled with the 3/8" diameter probe. I was reluctant to jam that into my root zone. But, I'm convinced that it helps keep the soil uncompacted, better draining and aerated. I want to buy a 1/4" aluminum rod, put a rounded point on the end and use that on a regular basis to aerate my soil.
harris hawk
Well-Known Member
Soil is harder to test that hydro - meaning that there are more factors that influence readings >? agree with Dr. Who. A lot of folks get caught-up in buying a cheap "ph" meter amd many don't even need one
A soil probe isn't a high priority for a new grower. But it helped me take my growing to the next level. For example, testing the ph of a soil out of the bag. I agree that a soil ph's itself. But, dolomite plays a part in that. The obvious question is how much to add. Running a test in 6-8 containers with various amounts of dolomite provided information I couldn't have had otherwise. (I could have just went with what other people said to use. But, nothing like learning yourself.).
Also, ph of soil can vary from bag to bag. A probe is helpful to check a new bag before using it.
Also, dialing in the ph. Mine is a little low. I've considered adding a touch of hydrated lime to raise it a little. The obvious question (after "what is my soil's starting ph?") is how much hydrated lime to use. A quick test with the probe discovered that 3/4 tsp/gal raised the ph a full point. So, 1/4 to 3/8 tsp would do the 0.3 that I'd like to do sometime (just to start a little more optimally).
I'm one of those people who likes to see what's happening as opposed to taking someone else's word for it. For me it's been an informative tool. It's not pointless. Might not be the best $60 purchase. It's low on the list of things I'd recommend to a new grower.
Also, ph of soil can vary from bag to bag. A probe is helpful to check a new bag before using it.
Also, dialing in the ph. Mine is a little low. I've considered adding a touch of hydrated lime to raise it a little. The obvious question (after "what is my soil's starting ph?") is how much hydrated lime to use. A quick test with the probe discovered that 3/4 tsp/gal raised the ph a full point. So, 1/4 to 3/8 tsp would do the 0.3 that I'd like to do sometime (just to start a little more optimally).
I'm one of those people who likes to see what's happening as opposed to taking someone else's word for it. For me it's been an informative tool. It's not pointless. Might not be the best $60 purchase. It's low on the list of things I'd recommend to a new grower.
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
For soil , a moisture meter is a better option. I got one at Walmart . On the chart under tomatoes ( the most similar to MJ ) , it shows approx. range of moisture ( digitally ) and has helped judge watering past the typical crusty top . You can push probe 6" down in to root zone. It helps me see how thirsty my plants are when I compare reading today and tomorrow. It's around $9.
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Most people get used to how heavy their containers feel. But, if the meter helps you that's fine. The Accurate 8 has a moisture button. I never use it But, now that I think about it, that would be useful to correlate the ph to a moisture level (since there can be pockets of varying moisture, and ph changes with dryness).
You can also keep the top of the from drying unevenly by laying a piece of cardboard over the top of the contianer. Also reduced fungus gnats. And, if you use white posterboard you get some reflefted light up into the lower part of the plant. (Every little bit helps.).
CA MTN MAN
Well-Known Member
I haven't tested my ph in the last 5 grow seasons and I haven't had any major issues
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Another way to check uptake of plants is to test PH of runoff after water or feed .
Get around 20% runoff and PH test solution before adding and after.
Example : I tested solution ready to feed ( 6.3 ) before adding.
Runoff PH at (5.8 ) . This important also to see if the plant is locked out.
Some growers flush every 10 days but I think that is a little much. I also check PH after Flush. Flushing washes away salts but also essential micro nutes. During last water thru pot ( I add kelp / Seaweed extract ) to keep some minor nutes in.
Save your money on analog meters , digital range of meter is locked between 0.0 to 9.9.
Very very easy to judge actual internal soil wetness based on this tight range.
I used the Knuckle method of soil checking and the lift the pot method , which works for some but want to know DAILY what moisture my girls are really using. Since doing this I never have that thirsty , droopy look that plants will get. I don't want to stress my plants.
Sometimes I also flush new potted soil ( without plant ) to check soil PH . I had some brands PH at 4.8 ( too low ) and seedlings would have an issue. You can never check on your plants too much.
Peace
Get around 20% runoff and PH test solution before adding and after.
Example : I tested solution ready to feed ( 6.3 ) before adding.
Runoff PH at (5.8 ) . This important also to see if the plant is locked out.
Some growers flush every 10 days but I think that is a little much. I also check PH after Flush. Flushing washes away salts but also essential micro nutes. During last water thru pot ( I add kelp / Seaweed extract ) to keep some minor nutes in.
Save your money on analog meters , digital range of meter is locked between 0.0 to 9.9.
Very very easy to judge actual internal soil wetness based on this tight range.
I used the Knuckle method of soil checking and the lift the pot method , which works for some but want to know DAILY what moisture my girls are really using. Since doing this I never have that thirsty , droopy look that plants will get. I don't want to stress my plants.
Sometimes I also flush new potted soil ( without plant ) to check soil PH . I had some brands PH at 4.8 ( too low ) and seedlings would have an issue. You can never check on your plants too much.
Peace
mike4c4
Well-Known Member
do you grow organic?
mike4c4
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info but seems to be getting a little off topic.Another way to check uptake of plants is to test PH of runoff after water or feed .
Get around 20% runoff and PH test solution before adding and after.
Example : I tested solution ready to feed ( 6.3 ) before adding.
Runoff PH at (5.8 ) . This important also to see if the plant is locked out.
Some growers flush every 10 days but I think that is a little much. I also check PH after Flush. Flushing washes away salts but also essential micro nutes. During last water thru pot ( I add kelp / Seaweed extract ) to keep some minor nutes in.
Save your money on analog meters , digital range of meter is locked between 0.0 to 9.9.
Very very easy to judge actual internal soil wetness based on this tight range.
I used the Knuckle method of soil checking and the lift the pot method , which works for some but want to know DAILY what moisture my girls are really using. Since doing this I never have that thirsty , droopy look that plants will get. I don't want to stress my plants.
Sometimes I also flush new potted soil ( without plant ) to check soil PH . I had some brands PH at 4.8 ( too low ) and seedlings would have an issue. You can never check on your plants too much.
Peace
Runoff ph isn't very reliable. Google for NCSU Pour-Through Method and it's process implies why casual runoff isn't reliable.
Runoff ph is useful as a trend to show salt buildup. (Runoff ppm is good for this too.). But, it's the trend that's informative, not an individual reading.
CA MTN MAN
Well-Known Member
Strictly ...
mike4c4
Well-Known Member
Good How do you judge the amount of left over nutes in the soil? Ive never had any problems yet but im getting ready to run some autos. I did 1 auto as a test and it was touchy. First time with autos. Pulled out the ph meter and got the leaves straitened out then my meter quit.
CA MTN MAN
Well-Known Member
I personally make my own soil and when I do I let it sit out in the sun and I water it at least 3 times before I put anything into it.
explosive82
Well-Known Member
i don't see a point in moisture meters, i've just stuck my finger in my plant/lifted the potter to see how wet/dry it is and haven't ever overwatered my plants in the 5 years i've been growing
mike4c4
Well-Known Member
mine has to cook for at least 30 days. Been recycling soil for 1yr now just trying to find out why ph is running low. First time in my life i had to use PH up. Yes i said up. LOL to finish the auto.