Philips LED bulb 11w 2700k

Looks nice.

I'd try to rearrange the bulbs a little, though. Put the Blue on top so the plants reach straight up and orient the Cree more sideways (or use a reflector) because the LED's are facing outward. <<< Click to see what I mean.

If you see bleaching from the Blue trying moving the lights a little further away.

GL HF and stay safe!

Bumping Spheda said:

Looks nice.

I'd try to rearrange the bulbs a little, though. Put the Blue on top so the plants reach straight up and orient the Cree more sideways (or use a reflector) because the LED's are facing outward. <<< Click to see what I mean.

If you see bleaching from the Blue trying moving the lights a little further away.

GL HF and stay safe!

Click to expand...

thanks for the advice, I've been watching that thread and was thinking that awhile ago I have the cree faced wrong. I wished they placed the leds like Philips did, all on a flat surface. The only reason I have the blue oriented this way right now is to see which light the seedling leans to, I'm not really trying to grow anything atm. If this turns out like I think it will, I think i'll be using all my philips as blue lights and adding a bunch of 6500k CFL, should be cheap with really good results.

http://phototropism.tripod.com/photo1.htm

"Action Spectroscopy Revealed That Plant Bending Is Caused By Blue Light"
"The action spectroscopy revealed that the effective spectral region triggering phototropism is in between 350-500 nm i.e. the blue region of the spectrum. The action spectra of oat coleoptile phototropism showed two prominent peaks at 475 and 450 nm with a shoulder at 420 nm."

I'm pretty sure it's just following the "bluest" light. I use 10,000K plus LED spotlights for keeping my moms. From what I've observed you don't really get massive growth from blue heavy sources in Veg unless you're running a lot of wattage or highly efficient LEDs. And even then it's just easier to add some 630nm. So you may want to throw a remote P back on and see if you get better growth when u r ready. Good Luck BondoMan

FranJan said:

http://phototropism.tripod.com/photo1.htm

"Action Spectroscopy Revealed That Plant Bending Is Caused By Blue Light"
"The action spectroscopy revealed that the effective spectral region triggering phototropism is in between 350-500 nm i.e. the blue region of the spectrum. The action spectra of oat coleoptile phototropism showed two prominent peaks at 475 and 450 nm with a shoulder at 420 nm."

I'm pretty sure it's just following the "bluest" light. I use 10,000K plus LED spotlights for keeping my moms. From what I've observed you don't really get massive growth from blue heavy sources in Veg unless you're running a lot of wattage or highly efficient LEDs. And even then it's just easier to add some 630nm. So you may want to throw a remote P back on and see if you get better growth when u r ready. Good Luck BondoMan

Click to expand...

thanks Fran, interesting stuff. Yeah I have a bunch of testing I want to do, next is to add the yellow domed light to the mix. After that to see how it grows under the different lights. One test I want to do is just put the uncovered blue lights in and see what it does, same with the yellow.

Bumping Spheda said:

Looks nice.

I'd try to rearrange the bulbs a little, though. Put the Blue on top so the plants reach straight up and orient the Cree more sideways (or use a reflector) because the LED's are facing outward. <<< Click to see what I mean.

GL HF and stay safe!

Click to expand...

After doing what you suggested and placing the Cree the way I should have, it's not bending anymore. Seems to make a huge difference the way you place those Crees.

Just bought the Philips 10.5-Watt (65W) BR30 Indoor Soft White 2700K Flood Light. I tore down the bulb to take a look inside. Seems Philips may be going the cheaper route. First thing I noticed is the difuser is no longer glass, it's now plastic. Also the phosphor is now on top of the led's, instead of the remote phosphor. I think that's a first for philips. There's now 20 LED's instead of 8. The heatsink is really thin and light, but the design seems to make it completely open to the air. I think I'm going to snag the older bulbs before they go away too, like Cree.

I also compared the 2 philips bulbs side by side, both with difuser removed, same wattage and 2700k. Using a piece of paper I gauged the difference, and the flood was incredibly brighter.

Why aren't you buying the philips floods with NO diffuser http://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-19-5-Watt-120W-PAR38-3000K-Bright-White-LED-Flood-Light-Bulb-423426/203321688#.UokaZNLZitM they do have secondary optics/lens?? unfortunately.....pricey

PSUAGRO. said:

Why aren't you buying the philips floods with NO diffuser http://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-19-5-Watt-120W-PAR38-3000K-Bright-White-LED-Flood-Light-Bulb-423426/203321688#.UokaZNLZitM they do have secondary optics/lens?? unfortunately.....pricey

Click to expand...

yeah, those aren't discounted at my store, $34. These floods on the other hand are $17 for a 2 pack. I'm starting to like these floods more than the other 11 watt bulb, as they focus light down much brighter. Also on the old philips the heatsink was wrapped around the driver, with plastic around the heatsink. This flood has the heatsink up towards the top away from everything, so probably a longer life for the bulb.

I dig it! Thanks for the update. I was thinking about buying more of the 10.5w 3000k's, but maybe I will check the spots.

Yeah I'm really liking the philips floods. I like the fact you can remove the diffuser without ruining it, so if you ever have to return the bulb just pop it back on. Now I just have to find money to buy more.

I realize this thread is old, but imm curious about removing the domes. I have about $200+ worth of cree bulbs laying around that were left over from an early attempt on a lower temp cfl style grow.. i replaced all cfls with these crees, & it did work, &got my temps down in the box. Ive since upgraded and hate to waste things, so im thinking about using them for vegging, so i can be closer to havin a perpetual grow.
Did removing the domes change results for the better?