Pics of my lil one in the Aerogarden
- Thread starter Scheister
- Start date
u guys do not read whats posted 4 you,if the roots r not tangled with each other u can transplant if there tangled dont bother or u'll kill ur babys ,,,420 if there not tangled i put siran wrap around roots to make roots go through ag top wrap roots like a big spliff
420for a succeessfull helly grow you would want 2,500- 5,000 lumens on each plant ,,
420
Major Lee Mashed
Active Member
Apologies, I did not see that original post.u guys do not read whats posted 4 you,
Thanks, I'll do as you suggested!
Does that count for Lowryder 2's?, as LR is a pretty small plant
for a succeessfull helly grow you would want 2,500- 5,000 lumens on each plant ,,
the bigger the lumens the better growth any size plants i grew auto hindu kush lowlifes small plants but potent thick nuggs ,,,
420fistraisedhigh
Active Member
OK! its been a while but I'm back! In action.
I have moved my setup to one of my bathrooms, specifically in the bathtub. The plants are thriving in there!!!
I just have a couple of questions though. I figured out that I have one male plant (at least) because those little round buds were forming in between the stems, without pistils. Now I have this huge male plant thats really bushy, and there has to be something I can do with it besides throw it away! I already chopped it down, and it is drying out. Does anyone know what I can do with a male plant like this? No buds or anything, just stems and leaves. If you know of a good recipe for ANYTHING, I am hoping to possibly do something to get me stoned with this plant.
Second, since my plants are starting to flower (its been 5 weeks. I have at least 1 female in there, but down to 4 plants total), don't I need to switch the lights? I started with the 150w spiral cfl cool white (for the blue spectrum) for vegetation, but aren't I supposed to switch to a warm light for flowering? I tried to find some today, but all I saw for sale were the cool white 150w spiral cfl bulbs (which I already have). Some of the bulbs for sale didn't even specify if they were soft or cool. None of them said they were warm lights. WHICH CFL BULB DO I NEED TO BUY FOR FLOWERING? I need specific label information. Red spectrum for flowering, right?
c'mon help a girl out!
Pics to come soon of my new setup. You're gonna love it!!!
I have moved my setup to one of my bathrooms, specifically in the bathtub. The plants are thriving in there!!!
I just have a couple of questions though. I figured out that I have one male plant (at least) because those little round buds were forming in between the stems, without pistils. Now I have this huge male plant thats really bushy, and there has to be something I can do with it besides throw it away! I already chopped it down, and it is drying out. Does anyone know what I can do with a male plant like this? No buds or anything, just stems and leaves. If you know of a good recipe for ANYTHING, I am hoping to possibly do something to get me stoned with this plant.
Second, since my plants are starting to flower (its been 5 weeks. I have at least 1 female in there, but down to 4 plants total), don't I need to switch the lights? I started with the 150w spiral cfl cool white (for the blue spectrum) for vegetation, but aren't I supposed to switch to a warm light for flowering? I tried to find some today, but all I saw for sale were the cool white 150w spiral cfl bulbs (which I already have). Some of the bulbs for sale didn't even specify if they were soft or cool. None of them said they were warm lights. WHICH CFL BULB DO I NEED TO BUY FOR FLOWERING? I need specific label information. Red spectrum for flowering, right?
c'mon help a girl out!
Pics to come soon of my new setup. You're gonna love it!!!
rushbuds
Active Member
fist where I topped my plants there's a fat ball of black stuck there....but that's ok..... its the resin in your plant forming up to seal its battle wound .....LOL .... the black balls on mine are so big I can probly pick em off and smoke em but that's like her natural band aid.... Don't worry your plants look fine keep up the good work
Your adventures are very similar to mine about 6 months ago when I started growing with aroegarden (AG). I even had tales of my search for not just mylar but FloroMicro/Grow/Bloom, submersible pump, 600w sulfur lights and don't even mention my continuing search for a pH meter with a range between 4-7, is reusable and can be used for water. I discovered this from my experiences with the AG:
1. It is a great way to start a seedling and have flowering stage all in one. However the plants will eventually out grow a conventional AG. They do make pro and deluxe models which are bigger but they are also pricey. I figure if you have money to spend might as well do tried, true and more effective method.
2. I found that the AG did not produce as much heat as higher watt bulbs I currently use. I can't tell you weather that is a fire hazard. However If you are concerned about the closet for any reason and have another choice for where to put it do it, if not then make the closet as safe as possible and try to be home when using to start. So you can be there if needed. I keep 2 fire extinguishers.
3. Nutrients in AG are delivered very differently then the principles of hydro I have learned. I am concerned about having nutrients in a tank of water that is in constant contact with the plant. What about nutrient build-up?
I have learned a little bit more but the most important thing is that the buds are not even half as sweet as what I am getting with hydro farming!
As far as how I was able to end my ineffective journey for materials, I order hard to find stuff online. You can buy mylar in different lengths and widths on hydro farming websites.
1. It is a great way to start a seedling and have flowering stage all in one. However the plants will eventually out grow a conventional AG. They do make pro and deluxe models which are bigger but they are also pricey. I figure if you have money to spend might as well do tried, true and more effective method.
2. I found that the AG did not produce as much heat as higher watt bulbs I currently use. I can't tell you weather that is a fire hazard. However If you are concerned about the closet for any reason and have another choice for where to put it do it, if not then make the closet as safe as possible and try to be home when using to start. So you can be there if needed. I keep 2 fire extinguishers.
3. Nutrients in AG are delivered very differently then the principles of hydro I have learned. I am concerned about having nutrients in a tank of water that is in constant contact with the plant. What about nutrient build-up?
I have learned a little bit more but the most important thing is that the buds are not even half as sweet as what I am getting with hydro farming!
As far as how I was able to end my ineffective journey for materials, I order hard to find stuff online. You can buy mylar in different lengths and widths on hydro farming websites.
use male leaves to make canna butter to cook with and u can use the 42w cfls through out whole growOK! its been a while but I'm back! In action.
I have moved my setup to one of my bathrooms, specifically in the bathtub. The plants are thriving in there!!!
I just have a couple of questions though. I figured out that I have one male plant (at least) because those little round buds were forming in between the stems, without pistils. Now I have this huge male plant thats really bushy, and there has to be something I can do with it besides throw it away! I already chopped it down, and it is drying out. Does anyone know what I can do with a male plant like this? No buds or anything, just stems and leaves. If you know of a good recipe for ANYTHING, I am hoping to possibly do something to get me stoned with this plant.
Second, since my plants are starting to flower (its been 5 weeks. I have at least 1 female in there, but down to 4 plants total), don't I need to switch the lights? I started with the 150w spiral cfl cool white (for the blue spectrum) for vegetation, but aren't I supposed to switch to a warm light for flowering? I tried to find some today, but all I saw for sale were the cool white 150w spiral cfl bulbs (which I already have). Some of the bulbs for sale didn't even specify if they were soft or cool. None of them said they were warm lights. WHICH CFL BULB DO I NEED TO BUY FOR FLOWERING? I need specific label information. Red spectrum for flowering, right?
c'mon help a girl out!
Pics to come soon of my new setup. You're gonna love it!!!
420these lights are not any good for growing they are for patios and porchs get a 400 w hps and grow with it from www.htgsupply.com,,,:peace:420
i never did it but i do have info on this subject
[SIZE=+2]Grafting[/SIZE]
When to Graft
Unlike budding, which can be performed before or during the growing season, most grafting is done during winter and early spring while both scion and rootstock are still dormant. Containerized plants may be moved indoors during the actual grafting process; after grafting, these plants are placed in protected areas or in unheated overwintering houses. Field-grown stock, of course, must be grafted in place. Some deciduous trees are commonly grafted as bare rootstock during the winter and stored until spring planting. Indoor winter grafting is often referred to as bench grafting because it is accomplished at a bench.
Selecting and Handling Scion Wood
The best quality scion wood usually comes from shoots grown the previous season. Scions should be severed with sharp, clean shears or knives and placed immediately in moistened burlap or plastic bags. It is good practice during the harvesting of scions and the making of grafts to clean the cutting tools regularly. This may be done by flaming or immersing them in a sterilizing solution. Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol also works well as a sterilant, although it evaporates quite readily. An alternative sterilizing solution may be prepared by mixing one part household bleach with nine parts water (by volume). However, this bleach solution can be highly corrosive to certain metals.
For best results, harvest only as much scion wood as can be used for grafting during the same day. Select only healthy scion wood that is free from insect, disease, or winter damage. Be sure the stock plants are of good quality, healthy, and true to type. Scion wood that is frozen at harvest often knits more slowly and in lower percentage. If large quantities of scion wood must be harvested at one time, follow these steps:
- Cut all scions to a uniform length, keep their basal ends together, and tie them in bundles of known quantity (for example, 50 scions per bundle).
- Label them, recording the cultivar, date of harvest, and location of the stock plant.
- Wrap the base of the bundles in moistened burlap or sphagnum, place them in polyethylene or waterproof paper bags, and seal the bags.
- Store the bundles for short periods, if necessary, either iced down in insulated coolers or in a commercial storage unit at 32o to 34oF.
- Never store scions in refrigerated units where fruits or vegetables are currently kept or have been stored recently. Stored fruits and vegetables release ethylene gas, which can cause woody plant buds to abort, making the scions useless.
- Keep the scions from freezing during storage.
420
ct420
Active Member
yo im growing outside, and my plants are doing well but i think for my next crop im gonna try aero for inside growing. And i was going to buy a small aero garden setup, and i was wondering if the aero garden has a timer for the light and i wanted to hear what u guys think. do u like aero? is it a good invest ment
fistraisedhigh
Active Member
if you read all my threads you will see how my aerogarden is working out. i am VERY pleased with my results. im sure in a week or so i will be getting some buds. look at the pics...there are some from the beginning to recent (which i am going to post up today). the aerogarden does have a timer, but you will need to override that one by purchasing a timer from radioshack or something. you have to have it set to 12/12, and buy one of those cords with a three prong end, and on the other end a playstation looking cord. plug that into the light, and plug the other end into the timer, which plugs into the outlet in the wall.
its worth it, but if you don't have the money to pay for the entire set up needs, dont even bother. you have to buy so much stuff for it, but once you get it all, youre set, and it will pay off
its worth it, but if you don't have the money to pay for the entire set up needs, dont even bother. you have to buy so much stuff for it, but once you get it all, youre set, and it will pay off
rushbuds
Active Member
Thanks mahni never did it but i do have info on this subject
[SIZE=+2]Grafting[/SIZE]
When to Graft
Unlike budding, which can be performed before or during the growing season, most grafting is done during winter and early spring while both scion and rootstock are still dormant. Containerized plants may be moved indoors during the actual grafting process; after grafting, these plants are placed in protected areas or in unheated overwintering houses. Field-grown stock, of course, must be grafted in place. Some deciduous trees are commonly grafted as bare rootstock during the winter and stored until spring planting. Indoor winter grafting is often referred to as bench grafting because it is accomplished at a bench.
Selecting and Handling Scion Wood
The best quality scion wood usually comes from shoots grown the previous season. Scions should be severed with sharp, clean shears or knives and placed immediately in moistened burlap or plastic bags. It is good practice during the harvesting of scions and the making of grafts to clean the cutting tools regularly. This may be done by flaming or immersing them in a sterilizing solution. Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol also works well as a sterilant, although it evaporates quite readily. An alternative sterilizing solution may be prepared by mixing one part household bleach with nine parts water (by volume). However, this bleach solution can be highly corrosive to certain metals.
For best results, harvest only as much scion wood as can be used for grafting during the same day. Select only healthy scion wood that is free from insect, disease, or winter damage. Be sure the stock plants are of good quality, healthy, and true to type. Scion wood that is frozen at harvest often knits more slowly and in lower percentage. If large quantities of scion wood must be harvested at one time, follow these steps:
NOTE: In grafting, as well as budding, the vascular cambium of the scion or bud must be aligned with the vascular cambium of rootstock. In woody plants the cambium is a very thin ribbon of actively dividing cells located just below the bark. The cambium produces conductive tissue for the actively growing plant (Figure 1). This vascular cambium initiates callus tissue at the graft and bud unions in addition to stimulating tissue growth on the basal ends of many vegetative cuttings before they have rooted.
- Cut all scions to a uniform length, keep their basal ends together, and tie them in bundles of known quantity (for example, 50 scions per bundle).
- Label them, recording the cultivar, date of harvest, and location of the stock plant.
- Wrap the base of the bundles in moistened burlap or sphagnum, place them in polyethylene or waterproof paper bags, and seal the bags.
- Store the bundles for short periods, if necessary, either iced down in insulated coolers or in a commercial storage unit at 32o to 34oF.
- Never store scions in refrigerated units where fruits or vegetables are currently kept or have been stored recently. Stored fruits and vegetables release ethylene gas, which can cause woody plant buds to abort, making the scions useless.
- Keep the scions from freezing during storage.