yesAnyone got an idea for a lightweight fixture that holds 16 cobs with heatsinks drivers and fans?
yesAnyone got an idea for a lightweight fixture that holds 16 cobs with heatsinks drivers and fans?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-x-96-in-Aluminum-Angle-Bar-with-1-20-in-Thick-802677/204273980How much does that weigh? Also, what are those tubes that you are using for frame?
Those aluminium heat sinks of yours ,soon will be rendered useless ,regarding their cooling potential ..OK, spent more time and money than I thought of course. The copper was scrap so purchased by weight. I picked up an additional 25 heatsinks plus 2 150mm fans and some other parts for $20 cash.
This is a 17" x 11" x 1/16" (about 1.6mm thick) piece of scrap copper. It was very shiny until I tried cleaning it with 1500 grit emery cloth which scratched the surface up pretty bad. Aluminum hollow tubes are riveted to the copper and have the wires routed through them. All pictures so far are from the top of the fixture.
Above is pre-wired for 4x Vero 29's 4,000K on corners of copper, they will be driven by an HLG-185H-C1050b. There will be some unused capacity available, but at 1050mA there isn't much I can do with it other than buy another Vero 29 but don't think I need it at this point. and haven't decided on what to do for a fuse. In the center an unnamed blurple cob on a separate driver, it's a 30W model that's running around 22W, meh, so what, I wasted a little money. There is wiring for blue 20mm star LED's which I don't have yet, and which I don't have a driver for. Maybe 12W Luxeon M, or a pair and some near violet. I started with normal 18 gauge wire but realized fishing it would become difficult so moved to the teflon coated wire which pulls easier, it's just more difficult to strip the ends off.
The heatsinks on the corners have flat bottoms while most have
The blue LED's can go under the 4 heatsinks which are not on the corners.
The corner heatsinks will get thermal grease applied to them at the same time I attach the COB's to the bottom. I have a small amount of arctic silver but maybe not enough for everything. The heatsinks at top center and bottom may be attached with thermal epoxy as well as any other heatsinks I need to attach.
Don't use "hardware store" chinese taps. Go to a machine shop and ask where they buy theirs. For aluminum cutting fluid I use Tap Magic specifically for Aluminum. Drilling and tapping that many holes gets boring. Now that I have over 100 holes on the tap I used it may be time to retire it.
No, I haven't attached the COB's. I want to get a flux pen first, I have a nice 60W soldering iron and good tips, it just takes too long based on the one COB I did attach.
I have a 150mm fan that I will either try to run at 5V or put it on a PWM so there is less noise. No idea if it is necessary. Each of the heatsinks weights about 1 pound (550g?). There is easily room for 6 more heatsinks but that might just be a waste.
This is for a cabinet with 2'x3' interior, height between bottom of fixture and the top of the growing media is 38".
If I add red's or far red they will be on their own light bars, not worried about that right now.
Any tips for finishing this build appreciated.
-90 degree lenses and / or diffusers,
-fuse location and size
-Thanks!
How much does it weigh? What kind of heat sink is that?4 cxa3070 ,, pulling 208 watts,, my box is 3 foot x 2 foot and 6 feet tall, hempy buckets this time aroundView attachment 3532998View attachment 3532999 View attachment 3533001
artic 11 pc heat sinks, from amazon they cost 8.99 each,, the light is pretty heavy, I did not weigh it, but I hung the pc fan power supply on the light this time, and the drivers, if I had to guess I would say ,,,, 5 pounds,,How much does it weigh? What kind of heat sink is that?
Should I be worried about using zinc galvanized screws/nuts/washers with Al heatsinks?Those aluminium heat sinks of yours ,soon will be rendered useless ,regarding their cooling potential ..
Direct contact of Aluminium with Copper ,in a humid environment ?
Rather bad idea ...
http://aluminumsurface.blogspot.gr/2009/04/corrosion-between-anodized-aluminum-and.html
http://www.stabiloy.com/NR/rdonlyres/E5F38E54-48BF-43C1-9415-865B903605EE/0/CorrosioninElecApplications.pdf
Cheers.
Zinc plated and inox (stainless steel ) screws ,bolts and washers ,Should I be worried about using zinc galvanized screws/nuts/washers with Al heatsinks?
super clean man,, good workView attachment 3535092 View attachment 3535093 View attachment 3535094 I went the Fence post route on this one, I'll be doing everything with angle iron in the future. I have 2 of these bars currently finished. 4 CXA 3070 AD Bin running at 1.05mA. MW AV12-12 for the fan driver, running into a pwm fan module. Heatsinks are Rosewill Z300s. Schaffner EMI Filter for the AC Input module. Wired in parallel via wago.
do you have a link to the actual fans couldnt make out the name sorryThanks. It's not totally balanced, weight wise. If I had it to do over again, I'd make some structural changes. All in all, the post housing isn't that bad, but without well thought out holes, it becomes a pain to secure the heat sinks. I really like having the 4 port fan controller, it makes hooking the fans up to the driver a breeze.
No worriesoh im sorry ididnt realize you wrote it in your original post
i can be a bit scatter brained, sometimes
put down the shatter,, loloh im sorry ididnt realize you wrote it in your original post
i can be a bit scatter brained, sometimes
im pregnant so im not partaking in any smokingput down the shatter,, lol
congrats,some of us have a good time here,, be good nowim pregnant so im not partaking in any smoking
but i had skimmed through the post
i have to read lots on this site its my job so i skimmed through and asked
he didnt care much for that but deleted his post
be good? not sure what you mean by thatcongrats,some of us have a good time here,, be good now