how hot are the bars running at 25 watts and 50 watts?
Pictures of your DIY lights - Post your pics!!!
- Thread starter TimeToBurn
- Start date
bizfactory
Well-Known Member
Fugly and not easily disconnected over and over. I ordered some of these that are rated well over 108v, confirmed with the manufacturer
lukio
Well-Known Member
top guy, proper gent
kony brado
Well-Known Member
hi there
I hate being mister safety again but the + on your middle cob looks dangerous.
When I look at the full size picture it appears you have a 2-4 mm wire part with no insulation that is prone to touch the sink.
if it does your light will be a shocker
.Maybe its just the pic and im wrong, but its worth a second look and maybe new soldier or even electric insulation tape or shrink. a ground conection is very important to prevent shock in these situation as well .another thing i have noticed is your heat sink with grooves that fit the old style star config. i don't think its recommended with cobs because of the missing aluminum under.cobs put allot of heat in a very small space and cooling is crutial. the best way is probably to fill the gaps under the cob with thermal epoxy ,let it dry,and then reinstall the cobs (with what ever TIM your using).
it's a good thing you didn't fire the light yet so you can fix these flaws before .
Pleas correct me if im wrong and misunderstood something.
be safe and well.good luck
Cletus clem
Well-Known Member
Looks like youre right about the wire. As far as the heatsink/chip, i didnt design the setup so i dont know? It is actively cooled though. I have run the light, its on its second flower cycle with a 2 week veg period in between and i have 2 of them and havnt had issues. This was the first of the 2 kits i built so i did fix a couple issues when i took it out to put the reflectors on. I did take extra precautions in securing all the wiring that were not included in the kit so there would be no wiggling around.hi there
I hate being mister safety again but the + on your middle cob looks dangerous.
When I look at the full size picture it appears you have a 2-4 mm wire part with no insulation that is prone to touch the sink.
if it does your light will be a shocker
another thing i have noticed is your heat sink with grooves that fit the old style star config. i don't think its recommended with cobs because of the missing aluminum under.cobs put allot of heat in a very small space and cooling is crutial. the best way is probably to fill the gaps under the cob with thermal epoxy ,let it dry,and then reinstall the cobs (with what ever TIM your using).
it's a good thing you didn't fire the light yet so you can fix these flaws before .
Pleas correct me if im wrong and misunderstood something.
be safe and well.good luck
kony brado
Well-Known Member
The reflector looks great man.
I dident know it was active cooling ,so it does make it better but I wold still use the thermal epoxi,its very easy and will take abut 10 minutes for both kits.these cobs are expensive and worth the extra effort to keep them cool,and get longer life time and a bit of extra light.
thank's
T-Time
Well-Known Member
Here it is.
Just a few final touches and it will be shinning on my ladies
The fixture is water cooled and will be used to illuminate 5x5 vertical space. Made an "cooling box" for a car heater core that will be put inline with 6" extraction fan. That and 40L of water will hopefully keep it cool for 12h.
Short list of components:
-2x meanwell hlg-480h-c1400b
-20x cxb3590 DB 3500k 36v
-2x TOCOS 100K linear potentiometer
-2x LCD displays meters
-1x VW heater core
-1x JECOD DC3000 pump
-lots of work
Max power 970W @ 1.4A, but will most likely run 730 @ 1.05A
Still have to mount 4x RapidLed Far Red Initiator Puck that I've purchased for this project.
Just a few final touches and it will be shinning on my ladies
The fixture is water cooled and will be used to illuminate 5x5 vertical space. Made an "cooling box" for a car heater core that will be put inline with 6" extraction fan. That and 40L of water will hopefully keep it cool for 12h.
Short list of components:
-2x meanwell hlg-480h-c1400b
-20x cxb3590 DB 3500k 36v
-2x TOCOS 100K linear potentiometer
-2x LCD displays meters
-1x VW heater core
-1x JECOD DC3000 pump
-lots of work
Max power 970W @ 1.4A, but will most likely run 730 @ 1.05A
Still have to mount 4x RapidLed Far Red Initiator Puck that I've purchased for this project.
bizfactory
Well-Known Member
Wow thats fucking awesome! Have you run water through it yet? How are the ends of the bars sealed?Here it is.
Just a few final touches and it will be shinning on my ladies
The fixture is water cooled and will be used to illuminate 5x5 vertical space. Made an "cooling box" for a car heater core that will be put inline with 6" extraction fan. That and 40L of water will hopefully keep it cool for 12h.
T-Time
Well-Known Member
They are welded. Found a welder that got it done for less then 50$ including welding water ports so no point messing with other method i guess.
Yes I have run some tests and it seams to hold water ok. Not sure about temps , but should know how its doing in a few weeks. Pump has enough head pressure that will push water up 5' no probs
Can't wait till I'll get it up and running
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Whow! Would like to see these beasty bad boy in action. 
Really well made, mate!!!
Keep an eye on condesed water, maybe insulate the aluminum tubes with some thin rubber matts to avoid condensation. Look at how overclockers insulate their CPU's if condensed water occurs.
Maybe also a small drop of silicone at the connectors and the COB-holder contacts(the small copper legs)..
Sa.., Sa.. ,Sa...Safety first, mate!
Really well made, mate!!!
Keep an eye on condesed water, maybe insulate the aluminum tubes with some thin rubber matts to avoid condensation. Look at how overclockers insulate their CPU's if condensed water occurs.
Maybe also a small drop of silicone at the connectors and the COB-holder contacts(the small copper legs)..
Sa.., Sa.. ,Sa...Safety first, mate!
T-Time
Well-Known Member
ThanksWhow! Would like to see these beasty bad boy in action.
Really well made, mate!!!
Keep an eye on condesed water, maybe insulate the aluminum tubes with some thin rubber matts to avoid condensation. Look at how overclockers insulate their CPU's if condensed water occurs.
Maybe also a small drop of silicone at the connectors and the COB-holder contacts(the small copper legs)..
Sa.., Sa.. ,Sa...Safety first, mate!
I learned a lot from couple of good people on this forum. People like You
thanks for the tips i didn't think about that. I wouldn't thought that condensation might accour as there will be no chiller in this setup so hopefully they will be cooled to maybe couple degrees above ambient temp.I've made top and bottom bars slightly tilted inwards as well as the light will be run in a small tent. Everything packed really tight. I'll make some photos when it's all setup
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Whow, thanks for the flowers...
Well, it's not very likely, but on colder days, especially at night, the dew point can be reached quickly on the aluminum surface and when you turn on ... Especially when you hang the unit vertically, drops would quickly add up and run down.
I do not think that it will be achieved when operating and well warmed up, but sometimes when it turn on again after a long, cool night. Remember, only one failure could cause initial problems.
I think a 5mm rubber mat tightly glued around the tubes would be sufficient to secure itself from condesed water.
Cellular rubber mat's, for example, as it is used for motorcycle seatbanks, is easy to find. It's a very dense foam (250-600kg/m³) and waterproof.
Well, it's not very likely, but on colder days, especially at night, the dew point can be reached quickly on the aluminum surface and when you turn on ... Especially when you hang the unit vertically, drops would quickly add up and run down.
I do not think that it will be achieved when operating and well warmed up, but sometimes when it turn on again after a long, cool night. Remember, only one failure could cause initial problems.
I think a 5mm rubber mat tightly glued around the tubes would be sufficient to secure itself from condesed water.
Cellular rubber mat's, for example, as it is used for motorcycle seatbanks, is easy to find. It's a very dense foam (250-600kg/m³) and waterproof.
randydj
Well-Known Member
Foam Pipe insulation tape is inexpensive and made for the job.Thanks
I learned a lot from couple of good people on this forum. People like You
I've made top and bottom bars slightly tilted inwards as well as the light will be run in a small tent. Everything packed really tight. I'll make some photos when it's all setup
kony brado
Well-Known Member
Here it is.
Just a few final touches and it will be shinning on my ladies
The fixture is water cooled and will be used to illuminate 5x5 vertical space. Made an "cooling box" for a car heater core that will be put inline with 6" extraction fan. That and 40L of water will hopefully keep it cool for 12h.
Short list of components:
-2x meanwell hlg-480h-c1400b
-20x cxb3590 DB 3500k 36v
-2x TOCOS 100K linear potentiometer
-2x LCD displays meters
-1x VW heater core
-1x JECOD DC3000 pump
-lots of work
Max power 970W @ 1.4A, but will most likely run 730 @ 1.05A
Still have to mount 4x RapidLed Far Red Initiator Puck that I've purchased for this project.
View attachment 4009305 View attachment 4009307 View attachment 4009308 View attachment 4009309
hi there
im realy imprest with your light and the amaunt of effort that you put in to it , super diy with the car radiator, owsem.
However ,i do want to point some flaws in the disign ,no offence .
1)you use hi voltage drivers(343volts) but the component are not rated for it
ideal chip lock-250v
But i wold worry less about them then the lcd screen (i don't know any that stand that voltage,they usually used in diy for cc.cv drivers with lower voltage )you might want to check that.
i know growmou5 set up with cxb's ( 8 on 320h-c1050 (305 volts)) works fine with the ideal.
2)did you fire the light already? im not sure they will light 10 cobs ,cxb at 1.4A are 34.89 according to supra's old charts thats 348 volts(you have 343v),so maybe yes maybe no.i hope yes
3)i think it wold be better if you make a 1 to 4 manifold to feed the alu channel,and same on the way out of the channels,than you will have more uniform cooling for the cobs.the way they are now the firs cob will be much cooler than the last because the water heats on the way with each cob.
i hope it wold tern up all right for you and i will be completely wrong
thanks
T-Time
Well-Known Member
Non takenhi there
im realy imprest with your light and the amaunt of effort that you put in to it , super diy with the car radiator, owsem.
However ,i do want to point some flaws in the disign ,no offence .
1)you use hi voltage drivers(343volts) but the component are not rated for it
ideal chip lock-250v
But i wold worry less about them then the lcd screen (i don't know any that stand that voltage,they usually used in diy for cc.cv drivers with lower voltage )you might want to check that.
i know growmou5 set up with cxb's ( 8 on 320h-c1050 (305 volts)) works fine with the ideal.
2)did you fire the light already? im not sure they will light 10 cobs ,cxb at 1.4A are 34.89 according to supra's old charts thats 348 volts(you have 343v),so maybe yes maybe no.i hope yes
3)i think it wold be better if you make a 1 to 4 manifold to feed the alu channel,and same on the way out of the channels,than you will have more uniform cooling for the cobs.the way they are now the firs cob will be much cooler than the last because the water heats on the way with each cob.
i hope it wold tern up all right for you and i will be completely wrong
thanks
I'm not an electrician, far from it really but will try to answer You as best as I can:
1) chip locks are rted 250v but only ~35v flows through them. If it was 250v the COB would make CABOOM!TSSSSSSS
The displays are rated to 260v and at this min they are connected to input cables (230v) . I think I'll be changing that as I want them to show actual current (output) but not so sure it will work (I'm guessing NO).
Heres the spec:
Voltage Measuring Range: AC 80 ~ 260V
Current Measuring Range: AC 0 ~ 20A
Power Measuring Range: 0 ~ 22kW
Energy Measuring Range: 0 ~ 9999kWh
2) I wasnt sure it would work at max but I did fire it up and works fine. I cant tell what current frows throgh the cobs. But cranked up to the max it still works and shows 970W so I'm assuming its close to rated current on the drivers. 970W/20cobs/~35Veach=1.38A . I wont be using it at full power tho. Closer to 700-750W will be well enough for my space
3) You are right but the difference will very, very small. Maybe 1-2°C , maybe even not that. I'm fine with that. I checked a lot of water cooled PC projects and seams to confirm that. So yes, I know its not ideal but its a lot more simple design.
wietefras
Well-Known Member
@kony brado Water doesn't heat up that quickly. I hardly see any temperature difference between in and out of my water cooled fixture. Mine is only 400W though and I do have multiple paths. Still, it takes a long time for the whole bucket to warm up, so I doubt the few seconds it's in the pipe is going to give much of an issue with temperature differences.
Voltage at Tj 25C is indeed 34.84, but at a more reasonable Tj 50C it's 34.48. Still too much but not that much. Besides, open voltage max is 420V and the overvoltage protection only kicks in between 432V and 473V
Voltage at Tj 25C is indeed 34.84, but at a more reasonable Tj 50C it's 34.48. Still too much but not that much. Besides, open voltage max is 420V and the overvoltage protection only kicks in between 432V and 473V
DrBlaze
Well-Known Member
I'm afraid that this comment shows a lack of understanding of series wiring vs parallel wiring. You use a constant current driver, which means that the cobs are hooked in series and the full 343v flows through that string of cobs, and each cob takes what it needs. This means that the voltage rating of the holders is very important. This has been discussed in countless threads on this site.1) chip locks are rted 250v but only ~35v flows through them. If it was 250v the COB would make CABOOM!TSSSSSSS
You may or may or may not run into a problem, but you're certainly not running within the specifications of the cob holders..
kony brado
Well-Known Member
thank'sNon taken
I'm not an electrician, far from it really but will try to answer You as best as I can:
1) chip locks are rted 250v but only ~35v flows through them. If it was 250v the COB would make CABOOM!TSSSSSSS
The displays are rated to 260v and at this min they are connected to input cables (230v) . I think I'll be changing that as I want them to show actual current (output) but not so sure it will work (I'm guessing NO).
Heres the spec:
Voltage Measuring Range: AC 80 ~ 260V
Current Measuring Range: AC 0 ~ 20A
Power Measuring Range: 0 ~ 22kW
Energy Measuring Range: 0 ~ 9999kWh
2) I wasnt sure it would work at max but I did fire it up and works fine. I cant tell what current frows throgh the cobs. But cranked up to the max it still works and shows 970W so I'm assuming its close to rated current on the drivers. 970W/20cobs/~35Veach=1.38A . I wont be using it at full power tho. Closer to 700-750W will be well enough for my space
3) You are right but the difference will very, very small. Maybe 1-2°C , maybe even not that. I'm fine with that. I checked a lot of water cooled PC projects and seams to confirm that. So yes, I know its not ideal but its a lot more simple design.
its good to know the 480h-c1.4 is good for 10 cxb's, its not obvios ,i guess it has to do with the high open voltage as @wietefras said.and i guess your right about water cooling as well,2 degrees is not a problem with constant current driver,maybe with cv drivers it can be more of a problem dew to thermal runaway (if temp difference betwin the cobs is big )
can you pleas post a link for these ac screens ?i want to use them myself .
why wold you want to measure dc instead of ac? just calculate 95%
thnks
kony brado
Well-Known Member
the constant current driver gives 1.4A to each cob on the string.each cob is at a surten voltage at 1.4A (hopefully uniform)
the voltage on the string will be the some of the voltage each cob consume at 1.4 A when wired in series ,at your case 343v~ as @DrBlaze said.
if you had 9 cobs on the string it would be 35v~ less and so on.
the voltage on the string will be the some of the voltage each cob consume at 1.4 A when wired in series ,at your case 343v~ as @DrBlaze said.
if you had 9 cobs on the string it would be 35v~ less and so on.
Failsafehydro
Member
I thought I would share what I'm building at the moment. I started with the 3 cob vero29 kit from rapid led but have since expanded upon it.(notice I having finish building so I am still using the 3 veros)2x - 6 x 20" Heat sink
1x - HLG-60H-700B driver
1x - HLG-240H-C1400B
4x - Vero29 SE 80cri 3500k
6x- xp-e far red
18x- xp-e photo red
1x far red puck
1x storm controller
I am pairing these lamps with a optic2 i had ordered (which i still havnt received i might add) smh.
I plan on running 2 veros, 9 photo red and 3 far red in each 6x20 heat sink with the optic2 in the middle. For a total of 6 cobs