I am not an expert but I have had some sauces with this process. I use only a glove box, and my contamination rate is about 25 percent with a fresh cutting and about 10 or less with transplants. Seems that the PPM in high enough doses protects me - and of course I seem to have perfected a decent sterilization protocol for the plant.
I find that a few quick rinses with 91 percent alcohol first, gets some of the sticky off of the ex plant and lets the bleach and detergent work better. Also I use a cheap ultrasonic cleaner. Of course the fact that the plants are grown indoors in a very clean room can't hurt - I have yet to use my "perfected" sterilization on a plant from outdoors and when I do it will probably suck.
Just some thoughts:
I found development of calus a waste of time. You can get shoots pretty quick and they say that callus is more prone to deviation from the genetics you are trying to preserve.
When I started taking bigger cuttings than the books and the kit says, I started having more success. The bigger cuttings are more resistant to cleaning, can be cut more and they yield more shoots. After they get established you can use the smaller shoots.
There really is kind of an art to setting the ex plants into the gel, as you continue you find out what works better.
I put only one plant in the jar when I am establishing but I put 3 transplants in each jar after that. I usually get at least 3 shoots per, so that is 9 per jar about every 3 to 4 weeks. You can very quickly get a whole whole lot of plants as 3 turns to 9 and 9 to 27, 27 to 81...
I am curious about those who report getting leaf cuttings alone to work - I can't make that happen at all.
I'm working on in-vitro seedlings, so far they pop but they don't grow. I am also just starting an attempt to sex the ex plant in-vitro, see if I can produce teeny tiny flowers on an uprooted shoot.
I find I like Agar better than Gelrite. I like the clarity of the Gelrite but it the plants don't seem to do as well in it. I was forced to use it this last time but I doubt I will again. I did find that 2.5 gm per liter or even a bit more is better - it supports the larger cuttings.
My biggest problem is vitrification and hyperhydrosis (I think that is what it is called). Vitrification is the formation of a crystalline crust around the plant - it does not come off until you ruin the shoot so you have to cut above it and transplant. Hyperhydrosis is where the plant turns into a fat, light green fragile mess with big leaves and no shoots to speak of. You can't operate on it and with rare exceptions it just quits.
The short of it is, if you persist, and you get the right formula it definitely works. The PlantTC guy's formula works but not as well as the TDZ
I found this forum and thread one day after I did a massive transplant, I was getting more vitrification than I wanted so I had to - Sorry I didn't get but two pictures of before the transplant - you can see the vitrification but also, look close and you will see 4 shoots.