Please Help. 2nd Hydro Run

DrHill

Well-Known Member
you could easily cut that in 1/4. .25mL per gal is plenty.

500 ppm is pretty strong too.

7.2 pH is way too high. are you sure your meter is calibrated too?

do you have an air gap b/t the net pot and the res water level?
I’m ordering some calibrating solution as well. Just got this pH meter. It seems pretty accurate, reads right at 7 when I put it into distilled water.
the air gap between the net pot and water level is about 1.5-2inches. Water source is tap.

And airline tubing letting light in?? How is that? Tubing is coming from the air pump through a small hole on the side of bucket, and into airstone . So even if light is getting into the tubing..it’s just hitting air. not the water. Right?
not understanding how light hitting air tubing that isn’t even inside the bucket could affect the roots
 

myke

Well-Known Member
I’m ordering some calibrating solution as well. Just got this pH meter. It seems pretty accurate, reads right at 7 when I put it into distilled water.
the air gap between the net pot and water level is about 1.5-2inches. Water source is tap.

And airline tubing letting light in?? How is that? Tubing is coming from the air pump through a small hole on the side of bucket, and into airstone . So even if light is getting into the tubing..it’s just hitting air. not the water. Right?
not understanding how light hitting air tubing that isn’t even inside the bucket could affect the roots
Its just like having a small hole in the bucket,light gets in.I wrap duct tape around mine.
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
Water source is tap
if it has chloramine in it , you're probably killing off alot of the southern ag. switching to peroxide or chlorine would be better IMO and run a sterile system

and for the tubing, i guarantee that if you could "see" inside your bucket when your lights are on, you'll see a green glow of light getting in from that green tubing. all my tubing is black for that reason.
 

DrHill

Well-Known Member
Lol man I’m glad I didn’t start out growing with hydroponics. Career probably would’ve been very short lived. So complicated, damn

but okay, I’ll put some black tubing on the list as well. So just using h202 and nutrients is considered “running sterile”?
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
Lol man I’m glad I didn’t start out growing with hydroponics. Career probably would’ve been very short lived. So complicated, damn

but okay, I’ll put some black tubing on the list as well. So just using h202 and nutrients is considered “running sterile”?
think of it this way: if you never make the same mistake twice, you'll run out of things to go wrong eventually. lol.

i consider sterile to be either chlorine or peroxide. i've never used peroxide: i prefer chlorine. it's safe for plants and humans and is actually a nutrient for cannabis. win/win

i used HTH pool shock when i ran sterile. i've been using southern ag for probably 5 years or so now? they both worked well for me. some growers have trouble using one or the other. whatever works for you .

and don't feel bad, i started with hydro. it's a steep learning curve but you'll get it sorted out. now it's so easy i'm bored with it. i've got my system so i can go away for 2 weeks too which is really nice.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Im not as experience as you with h202,only thing I know for sure is when I did 1ml/g in rdwc I had to be careful and add it slowly ,if I didnt my plants would wilt immediately.
So your saying 16ml/g? of 29% thats 16x more than what Ive done.You're sure? Perhaps maybe just a dip for 20 seconds then rinse?
I just cant wrap my head around that strong of a mix.
The doses I quoted are what I've used myself over more than 15 years of doing DWC grows and what I've advised people with root rot to use with great results saving plants with almost no roots left from rot. When your roots are all falling apart and most of them are floating around loose in your pail or tub or plugging up your return to the rez then you need to clean everything out before using the peroxide. The peroxide oxidizes dead material really fast as it doesn't have oxygen in it so is a better target. Same with bacteria. Anaerobic, (bad), bacteria consumes oxygen so attracts the radical single oxygen molecule it can get from the H2O2. Aerobic bacteria, (good), has oxygen so is less of a target tho some will also be oxidized. In a sterile DWC there shouldn't be any bacteria so it's only the bad ones causing the rot that get consumed.

For the math 16ml/gal is the same as 4ml/L so 4/1000 = 0.4% but its only 35% peroxide so 0.4% x 0.35 = 0.14% peroxide in solution. Only 0.116% if using 29% peroxide. I used to suck up 200ml of 35% and add it slowly to my Rubbermaid tubs that held 50L of water to kill off rot. 25ml for a maintenance dose of 0.5ml/L. I bought a gallon/4L jug at a time as it was cheaper that way. The garden centre in the city sold 4L jugs for $45 and the hydro store sold litres for $20 each. This is food grade peroxide that has no preservatives in it so better than buying 3% not to mention you need 11x as much 3% to attain the same dose. At that rate I would need over 2L of 3% to treat one tub. With only 450ml in a bottle I'd need 5 bottles every day for a few days. The local drug store would probably have to order some in and wonder what the hell I was doing with it. :)

This is from a tub I grew with 16 plants. 4 in each of the 4 net pots. HPS light makes it look orange but they were still pretty white/tan.

Roots.jpg

Same ones days after starting that tub. You can see all the little fine feeder roots all over in both the pics.

Roots2.jpg

:peace:
 

michael1999

New Member
This clone is giving me some trouble. Has a decent root system started but has not been growing much for the past 4-5 days and has been yellowing more each day.

been keeping ppm around 350-500. pH has ranged from 5.5-7.2 during the last week. I have been being more strict the past few days and trying to get it as close to 6 as I can.
I have played around with the ppm, i couldn’t tell if it was being overfed or underfed. Lights are dimmed to about 35%. Using jacks nutrients tap formula. Idk what’s wrong
First more light, bigger fatter buds. I keep mine 100% all growing phases. and the yellow is nutrient deficiencies. But overfeedoing will burn with full light so use 1/2 mixture, like 1 tblspn per gallom use : 1 tblspn per 2 gallon. Calmag and a 3 part fertilizer has been working real good for me.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Lol man I’m glad I didn’t start out growing with hydroponics. Career probably would’ve been very short lived. So complicated, damn

but okay, I’ll put some black tubing on the list as well. So just using h202 and nutrients is considered “running sterile”?
I was totally the other way. Everything I tried to grow in real dirt was a fail but I figured out DWC on my own in '01 and even wrote into Ed Rosenthal's column in Cannabis Culture magazine, Ask Ed, about the system I came up with using RubberMaid tubs with just an airstone and he said he didn't think it would work. He's changed his tune since and it's proven to be the simplest and most efficient form of hydro.

Only one air pump to possibly fail. No chance of leaks unless your tub splits and I never had that happen. I would start my plants in the shrter tuns that hold 35L when filled an inch below the pots then when switching to flower would mix up a fresh batch of nutes in a taller tub and just pick the lid up with the plants and drop it on the fresh tub. I was running two airstones per tub and drill holes slightly smaller than the airline under one handle so they didn't get in the way. Even used clear airlines for a few years and never had any algae growth in the nutes. I see a lot of people cover the tops with foil or aluminum tape but I never did that either and no algae growth even when starting off with clones under a 400w MH so the lid was exposed to strong light. It's not a thing.

If I was running two tubs I'd use two dual outlet aquarium pumps with one line from each going into both tubs and plug them into different circuits so if a pump failed or the breaker went on one each tub would still have one working airstone. That never happened but the rubber cups in the pumps would crack after long use and need replacing so always had a few rebuild kits on hand for that 10 min repair. Got a couple of those ECOAir commercial pumps and they really push a lot of air. Burned out my big one when my dugout aerator packed it in and hooked it up. Ran OK for about 3 months then started making a hell of a racket. Guess they aren't made for the amount of back pressure they get when pushing out into water 12ft deep. Got a new aerator pump designed for dugouts this year and it's nice to have clear tap water that doesn't reek of swamp. :) $400 tho. :( The pump is down in the basement with a 1/2" line running underground with the 1 1/4" water line about 75yds out to the dugout. Noisy as hell but can't hear it upstairs hardly. I can use it for vacuum for my lab still or a DIY vac chamber for oil too. Would work great for a big hydro setup.

aerator.jpg

Last winter when you filled up a tub for a bath the water was dark grey and stunk to high heaven. Just a shotglass of 35% peroxide and it cleared right up and the smell went away. But then you got to rinse off with water from the tap but the smell didn't stay on you. At least no one looked at me funny when I went to the store.

I've learned a lot about how plants work since those days and now get pretty good results growing in a semi-organic media. They don't grow as fast but yield decently and just seem to stay happy all the time with little fuss. Trying to do more breeding in smaller pots indoors in the winter and planting autos outside to bulk up using the free light provided.

Happy New Year!

:peace:
 

Herb & Suds

Well-Known Member
First more light, bigger fatter buds. I keep mine 100% all growing phases. and the yellow is nutrient deficiencies. But overfeedoing will burn with full light so use 1/2 mixture, like 1 tblspn per gallom use : 1 tblspn per 2 gallon. Calmag and a 3 part fertilizer has been working real good for me.
WELCOME to RIU :weed:
 

DrHill

Well-Known Member
Last night I emptied all of the water out.
Added 15gallons of tap water (Right at basket level, no air gap)
Added 12mL of 3% H202 for every gallon
Poured most of the new water added over the Hydroton of infected clone
Added Jacks Tap Nutrients to get 300ppm (1.5g/gal)
Added .30g/gal Epsom Salt

This morning,
No improvement on plant growth, and leaves are still clawing pretty bad.
However, there is no more brown/tan tint to roots of infected plant. They aren't braided together like before.
I can see 3-4 very little white nodules forming on the longest root
I took out 3 gallons to have a gap of air between water level and basket
Took out 1 more gallon and added another 15mL of 3% H202 to it and poured it back over the hydroton.

Let's see what happens. Feels like I'm watching grass grow
 

DrHill

Well-Known Member
Your on the path to recovery,won't be long now.
Good to hear, feels like so much time wasted already. I just harvested the 1st round of terple from this tent last week. The buds should be ready to start curing any day now. At this point, I thought would be nearly halfway through Veg for this round but rot had other plans lol.

thank you and everyone else for all the advice. I'll keep updating. Hopefully this thread helps other growers out too. Goal was to run 2 terple and 2 Platinum OGs, need the terple to get well soon so I can at least take 2-3 cuts
 

DrHill

Well-Known Member
Alright guys. None of that worked unfortunately. Seriously, what’s going on?? This makes me feel like a rookie

Someone else on another forum said it could be lockout so I flushed last night. Did plain pH’d tap water set to 5.8-6 (Right now makes 24hrs)

This morning, someone said maybe my tent/leaf temp was too low @ 66F so i warmed the house up. And feed 1gallon of 1/4 strength of Jacks Tap formula over each net pot and foliar fed as well. Did this because they don’t seem to be taking up any nutrients at all. All of this was done about 8hrs ago. Looking worse every hour

I know rez temp is a little high right now but that’s not the issue. it’s consistently been at 69-71F until i upped the house temperature 8hrs ago.

Don’t want to give up on DWC just yet. But this shit is making me just want to get bags of Coco tomorrow
 

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Skiderbee

Member
Alright guys. None of that worked unfortunately. Seriously, what’s going on?? This makes me feel like a rookie

Someone else on another forum said it could be lockout so I flushed last night. Did plain pH’d tap water set to 5.8-6 (Right now makes 24hrs)

This morning, someone said maybe my tent/leaf temp was too low @ 66F so i warmed the house up. And feed 1gallon of 1/4 strength of Jacks Tap formula over each net pot and foliar fed as well. Did this because they don’t seem to be taking up any nutrients at all. All of this was done about 8hrs ago. Looking worse every hour

I know rez temp is a little high right now but that’s not the issue. it’s consistently been at 69-71F until i upped the house temperature 8hrs ago.

Don’t want to give up on DWC just yet. But this shit is making me just want to get bags of Coco tomorrow
Patients, problems won't correct over night. Make sure water is in direct contact with your net pot until you can see new roots. May take a few days.
 

Billy the Mountain

Well-Known Member
Probably unrelated, but I wouldn't trust the readings from that EC/PPM meter. I've had several of that exact model in various colors and all were completely unreliable. None could be reliably calibrated. The odds are good that your EC is not what that meter is displaying.

A $30 HM Digital Com-80 meter was the best $30 I've spent on equipment as its been both accurate and reliable.
 

DrHill

Well-Known Member
Your adding the h202 every 2=3 days? You got the 30% stuff now?
Yes i have it. But honestly I stopped because i didn’t think it was root rot. I have brand new clones that were transplanted after and doing the exact same thing
 
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