PlEaSe Help DWC wilting!!!!!!

jimmy130380

Well-Known Member
Reflush light nutes restart and watch for improvement
that would be my first step
raise the lights all up
make sure the heat not high
top feed high oxygen mix
 

llltimelll

Well-Known Member
before i turn in for the evening, ppl dont jus grow in water all by itself..u cant jus fill a pot with water (for these plants) and have them live bc the roots also need oxygen...without oxygenated water in DWC plants jus wilt and die...remember? thats why you put air stones in there in the first place...


your welcome...you can +rep me later :D
 

llltimelll

Well-Known Member
how big are your pumps pushing the stones??

remmember, 1 watt per gallon o water....they seem like they might be inferuior
 
Yeah we are at 1/2 watt per gal. We are going to go get another air pump right now. DO you think that she will come back to life with an adequate amount of air?
 
I really dont think that flushing is the answer. I just flushed like 11 days ago when I started flowering. 900 ppm at 2nd week of flowering is light feeding. I chose the light feeding on the AN nute calculater b/c I dont kno the genetics of the plants. They are mostly indica but thats al I really kno. I want to get beter at growing before I pay for good genetics.

I am gonna look on ebay for a good air pump so that I dont have to run multiple pumps.

Thanks alot for all of your help!
P.S. We already REPed everyone who helped last night
 

llltimelll

Well-Known Member
thanx for the rep dog..your gurls will go back to normal quickly...i wouldnt wait tooo long tho..best to get pump locally (then maybe return it), than to wait on ebay..

p.s. next time try running the 'lucas' formula for your nutrient regimen...
 
Yea I added another pump today when the light came on. The fuct up thing is that only 2 of the 6 plants were effected. I hope this works. If they dont start showing improvement by the end of the cycle tonight do you think I should go get a 20 watt pump?

How long have you used GH nutes? I am not very impressed with AN at all.
 

Dr. VonDank

Active Member
Add 5ml/gal cal/mag plus---then mix in 15ml/gal aquashield by botanicare. If you are not using an enzyme then get one at 5ml/gal hygrozyme. Mix with you AN stuff and balance to 700 ppms at 5.5ph. You plants will bounce back within a couple of days...
 
My AN lineup:
sensi bloom A B
sensizyme
carboload
big bud
cal mag (I use RO water)

I have used Hygrowzyme in the past and i started getting root rot. I flushed with clearex and h2o2 and the problem went away. I know that sensizyme is basicly the same thing and hygrozyme but the guy at the hydro show swore up and down that it would not cause me root rot. He has not steered me in the wrong direction yet (he has been growing for 20 years) so I decided to try it out. I am pretty sure that the sensizyme is causing me all of this grief. I will never use enzymes ever again.

I went and bought a 35 watt pump today. Maybe its overkill but I want to make sure that oxygen was not the problem before I throw away all of the nutes that I just added a couple days ago.

Well it has been 6 hours since I put the new pump in and there isnt any change. Looks like I will be flushing and adding new nutes without sensizyme. Fuck me runnin.

I want to thank everyone for all of their helpful suggestions.
 

Dr. VonDank

Active Member
Sorry to hear that but just for reference: The carboload is not needed in your set-up. If you were running beneficials(not recommended in straight hydro/DWC applications then it would feed them. Plants cannot assimilate and take in sugar so toss that out(save it for a organic soil grow. Beneficials produce an enzyme as a byproduct--that byproduct(enzyme) breaks down dead organic material--If you did have root rot an enzyme would basically consume the same things as the rot fungus(in basic terms). An enzyme will not give you root rot. An enzyme will not get rid of root rot but will help keep your rhizosphere(area directly in and around your roots) clean of dead organic material(you really shouldn't have to use an enzyme in a clean sterile hydroponic set-up) but if you are having root rot problems then the combination of a GOOD zyme with aqua shield will help. I like allot of AN's products but they have the worst zyme on the market hands down. I had a discussion with a AN rep whom worked for them for 7 years and was a Die Hard lover of the products but he did not use the sensizyme--He used hygrozyme. I have used allot of different zymes and the best results I had came from mixing hygrozyme and cannzyme. The aqua shield is Bactillis Subtilis in a liquid poultry compost and will compete with the root rot fungi and scientific studies have shown that it also acts as a fungiside. There are different strains of B subtillis one is great as a foliar spray and is sold as a product that you probably know--SERINADE. The reason you also want to lower your ppms is due to the osmotic properties of a high salt solution(if your ppms are raised to fast moisture within the plant can actually be drawn out from the roots thus causing wilt). Although each strain can handle different amounts of nutes(some strains use low ppms/medium ppms/high ppms). I have found that if you start with 1/4th to 1/2 doses of the manufactures recommended amounts and then very slowly increase those amounts if needed works best. At the least I hope you find this information useful and any direction you take leads you to the valley of the green giant...
 
Thank you Dr. VonDank. I did not know all of that. I have talked with other people who introduced hygrozyme to their system and got root rot shortly after and that is what happened to me a few months ago. I will try the hygrozyme and aquashield. What nutes do you use? Do you use hygrozyme and aquasheild all the time?

What type of system do you use where you got root rot? It looks like you mainly grow in soil.
 

diddydady

Active Member
alright heres my two cents. I love my enzymes but I think you can use them at wrong times. First clear your water out with H202, use it every day until rot goes away . Kill everything living in the DWC . then start fresh the next day. if you have already added the enzymes within two weeks dont use anymore. They will still be there (in your media or somewhere). Now I have found that when I lower the Ph all day long everyday it is very hard on my plant/s. I think that plant is getting way to much potassium (or what ever chemical is being used in the PH down, can build up way to much salt). So your plants take up nutes when the ph is right. So in a sense when you balance your PH you are in turn feeding the plant. SO when you add water or nutes, balance the ph, or balance once a day or every other day. Your plants dont need fed every min of the day. Also, put one air line/stone in your rez per 1.5-2 gallons of water. They love it. see if that helps you out
 
Thanks for the info Diddy. Everyone has differant views on how to kill root rot. I cant take everyones advice so I am listening to a grower with a lot of experience(Dr. Vondank). I agree with you having alot of airstones helps the plants but youy have to have a pump that will push ample air through them( that was my prob. a weak pump).

So, Today I went and got hygrozyme and aquashield. I added that in to the freshly cleaned and flushed rez. The worst wilted plant showed a little improvement with the flush and rez changeout. I will keep my fingers crossed.
 

Dr. VonDank

Active Member
I help medical growers with there set-ups and problems. I have ran about every set-up(I love to experiment and tinker). I will admit I have run into root-rot in the past---it was 100% MY fault and a bitch to resolve. H202 works as a preventative but before you see any problems. SM-90 does the same. after you get it is a whole different ballgame. If you're plants and roots are healthy(no visible root rot or browning) then the above measures are fine. I have used AN/CANNA/FF/DUTCH MASTER/BIOBIZZ/GH/ and others in the past but have moved more focus into veganics/organics(as you said organic based mediums) in DWC/bubbleponics/hydroponics/ebb and flow/drain to waste/flood to waste/drip/aquamist most of the nutrients are good as long as you understand the label's and ensure you are getting the correct balanced ratios of all major/secondary/micro nutes and are applying those in the correct nutrient concentration/ph/temp. Its whats going to make you happy that counts. I recommend med pats that want to run hydro and don't care about the organic side of things the 3part GH line--very simple/cheap/effective. For organic/veganic I recommend med pats teas. But in the end its their choice. Please keep me in the loop with your plants. There is one more option I would not recommend but as a very last resort if they don't bounce but I have a feeling they will now....good luck brother.
 

VidiotRayM

Active Member
I'm not a DWC guy...but sugar water is a bad thing in hydro......Not sure it's that one, but one of the carboloads is just blackstrap molassas and water....did you just start adding it?? If so, that's the likely culprit..... I tried something like that years ago in my ebb/flow and ended up with some really nasty gunk that looked like pink slime.......scrubbed it all out and never tried anything like that again...... I think the molassas is more a soil thing........
 
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