PLEASE HELP LAST 3WEEKS FLOWERING!!! Possible mag def?

Walter9999

Well-Known Member
If you have proper draining soil, flushing with a 100 gallons of water won't make a difference...your pot w/dirt, roots can only retain so much water...everything else is going to drain off...this action is what "causes" the flushing to take place...3 gallons won't barely flush it...you're just watering it with 3 gallons...by the way trying to correct deficiencies late in flowering is a waste of time and prob causes more harm than good...g/l
 

Bublonichronic

Well-Known Member
.3 gallons won't barely flush it...your just watering it with 3 gallons...by the way trying to correct deficiencies late in flowering is a waste of time and prob causes more harm than good...g/l
well I guess that depends on what ur tryn to do with the flush? Like if yu wanna take everything out of the soil and do a quick harvest u might want to run 2x the pot size with water...but if ur just lookin to pull out a little build up say later into flower, u might want to do a more mild flush just to try and balance out the medium a bit?
 

Walter9999

Well-Known Member
well I guess that depends on what ur tryn to do with the flush? Like if yu wanna take everything out of the soil and do a quick harvest u might want to run 2x the pot size with water...but if ur just lookin to pull out a little build up say later into flower, u might want to do a more mild flush just to try and balance out the medium a bit?
If I'm flushing its all or nothing...I have no way to monitor "mild flushing"...how does one know when you have only mildly flushed???
 

Bublonichronic

Well-Known Member
If I'm flushing its all or nothing...I have no way to monitor "mild flushing"...how does one know when you have only mildly flushed???
Hmm, I guess a starting point could be whatever the volume of the pott is 2x would be a "heavy"flush, then equal volume a "mild" flush, and I think u get what would be a light flush?
 

BSD0621

Well-Known Member
I can see this going downhill. Just water with ph'd water and skip the "flushing" all that is going to do is deprive the plant of NEEDED food.
 

Y0da

Well-Known Member
Relax, chill out, take a deep breath, don't do anything rash. Buds look lovely, don't look like they need more than another week or two.

If you start flushing at the moment you run the risk of high RH will result in mould, budrot and god knows what else.

Leaves look like they should, normal nitrogen def due to age and processes in late flowering.

Just my opinion.
 

shhady

Member
Thank you all for your responses...I hope I didn't damage anything..with all the pH 7-8 tap water I gave it yesterday I was stoned as shit ...thinking about it now should've just gave it reg pH'ed water yesterday instead of the flush..hopefully it stays good and holds up for the next 3 weeks..gonna give it a dose of nutes next watering
 

RedCarpetMatches

Well-Known Member
Buds look great and bout done. After this harvest look into true organics threads and make the leap into big boy growing. No bottled crap, no worries. I can't even remember the last time I had to flush soil.
 

JonnyAppleSeed420

New Member
flush with 15 gallons of water as you need to get 3 times the amount of the pot through
Leeching during the cycle isn't 3 times the pot size, its 3 times your usual water. These ladies look good and the yellowing is normal if you are using your nutrients correctly. When you see the yellowing start you should be able to start tapering your nutrients down, they do not require full strength once you start seeing this...JAS
 

lilroach

Well-Known Member
It's not except in the degree of salts.
I'm embarrassed to admit that I don't understand "salts" and how they are used in growing. Can someone give me a reason why we have salts in our nutrients and how does the plant process them?
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
I'm embarrassed to admit that I don't understand "salts" and how they are used in growing. Can someone give me a reason why we have salts in our nutrients and how does the plant process them?
Salts as in potassium or ammonium nitrate, iron sulfate, ammonium phosphate, urea, etc. A plant uptakes salts and that includes organics. If the organics did not contain or chemically make salts, they would be useless. The plant breaks down the salts into ions, combines with with hydrocarbons from water and air. If you understand that then you know what a farce the practice of flushing is. A plant is not a radiator where you somehow open up a tap and the excess salts are washed out.
 

yesismoke

Active Member
Does look like magnesium deficiency.. like a few people said its very late to correct it. To check your ph do the slurry test i use that ph kit it works in soil .heres what i do mix my nutes then let it sit after shaking then shake again then ph test the yellow is 6.0-6.4 ph then there a yellowish green color i try to give it both
 

yesismoke

Active Member
I left this out i water with one and feed with other just to change up i keep it between 6.0 -7.0ph for soil..
 

shhady

Member
I flushed sat night with about 3 gallons of ph'ed water...runoff still had a bit of a red tint..checked runoff pH was around 4...continued to flush with about 7 more gallons of un ph'ed tap water, read about 7-8 ph...checked the runoff n it was only around 5..I gave up after words...
it is now Monday and all my leaf tips look burnt any idea why?
 

shhady

Member
Dude with a constant ph of 4 you are lucky stuff doesn't look real real bad.
I always water with 6.5 pH don't know how the runoff pH was so low and was still growing, maybe nute lockout out of no where?..I can use the general hydroponics pH water tester solution to check the runoff as well right? Just want 2 make sure I'm using the right equip
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
I always water with 6.5 pH don't know how the runoff pH was so low and was still growing, maybe nute lockout out of no where?..I can use the general hydroponics pH water tester solution to check the runoff as well right? Just want 2 make sure I'm using the right equip
Ignore pH and stop washing the nutrients out of your potting mix. Read my post #19. Not to rain on your parade but I'll give your plants 2 weeks at the rate you're going and they'll be "toast". Trying this and that hoping something sticks will further result in a decline of plant health. You're well on the way thanks to the use of the bloom food.

There is no way your ambient soil can have a pH of 4.0 unless you're planting in pure peat and adding sulfur. Along with shit canning that bloom food, toss the pH meter and get a quality Hanna WITH calibration fluids. Calibrate before each test. The proper way to test soil pH is to add a small amount of soil to a clean jar, one that has been rinsed with distilled water, add de-ionized water to the jar, shake, let settle, and stick yo probe in. Amounts of water to soil is irrelevant as the water is de-ionized and will have no pH value as measured by your pH meter. Buy the water from a lab supply store or do what I do, ignore soil pH. It's one of those things where folks don't know shit, act like they do, do the RIU pH-n-Mg dance and you're stuck with failing plants because you listened. You're most likely over-correcting that which did not need correcting in the first place....slippery slope.

Also, I doubt if you have a Mg deficiency. Most would not know what to look for regarding the lower leaf chlorotic Mg symptoms. What's "I gave them a little epsom salts" mean? You do know that by over-doing one element you're creating a deficiency of the other? Get familiar with the concept of "nutrient antagonism".

You need to get back to the basics, learn how to grow a tomato, and unlearn all the crap that is presented in RIU. You'll thank me for my forward approach once you see the light.

Good luck,
UB
 

yesismoke

Active Member
Dont pay no mind to runoof it always different ..you got this far with only yellow leaves your fine ..stop flushing with different ph only 6.0-7.0 ph i only feed one time in ten days water twice tho i give them a ph of 6.0-6.4 yellow and water with yellowish green 6.5-6.9.ph or backwards just to make magnesium iron and calcium more available ..check out the ph nutrients availability chart to get an idea only slight changes tho.
 
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