Please help Sick plants

Green Cross

Well-Known Member
I didn't see any mold, do you? They don't smell musty?

It's normal to have the life sucked out of the leaves in flower, but that looks more like Miracle (MG) Burn.

I'd flush the pots next watering, and starve them for the remainder of the grow. Keep the lights as close as you can, they need the light now, and mold doesn't like lite.
 

darkdestruction420

Well-Known Member
90* is way to hot.

LUDA.
then how can anyone in the south or mexico grow? its routinely in the 100's for weeks there yet it doesnt kill them. it gets to be 95-100 around here too....my plant just needs to be watered a little bit more during our heat waves. mygirls explained this to me in another thread. his temps get to be in the 90's often but its not a problem since he has good fresh air flow and venting
 

LUDACRIS

New Member
Looks like you have a mold problem. Do you know the humidity level in your grow space? Needs to be under 50%. How about the temp? You should water when your lights are on to avoid any moisture on the leave and buds when they do go out. First remove the dead plant tissue and affected areas, then apply a fungicide. I'm quite sure that's your problem.

Hope that helps save your smoke!!
Garden safe fungicide, you can get it at wally world or any garden store supplier. As for the humid and heat. You just need to get a better ventilation system, like an air-conditioner or an air vent tubing. Just any way to get dry air in there. A dehumidifier works, but can generate a lot of heat.
oooooooooohhhhhhhhhh
BongLoader said:
"I'm quite sure that's your problem" W.T.F.
BongLoader said:
quite sure is not good enough.
and where is the mould or am i blind ?????? (is it in your head ?????).
:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

LUDA.
 

brasmith

Well-Known Member
Your plants don't have mold, if they did there would be dark/gray areas in the buds, especially in the bigger ones. The mold generally starts at the main stem from inside the bud and works its way up, out and down the bud. Do you aee any discoloration in them?

All those white crunchy leaves you've got are the result of a K defieciancy and it is not a sudden one. Thosee white tips show up in the mid to late stages of lacking K. At this point it is too late to correct, might as well let your plants have the time to rippen a bit more. But because they have lacked K the plant could need a bit of extra time because of delays in maturing due their struggle for K. Luck
 

sirbudmaster

Well-Known Member
I didn't see any mold, do you? They don't smell musty?

It's normal to have the life sucked out of the leaves in flower, but that looks more like Miracle (MG) Burn.

I'd flush the pots next watering, and starve them for the remainder of the grow. Keep the lights as close as you can, they need the light now, and mold doesn't like lite.
i am leaning towards this poster being right...looks like nute burn....i used MG bloom and had same reaction!


Peace
 

tommytoker

Member
I'm not arguing with the too hot problem BUT...the room where the growbox is 72-74 degrees. However the 400w HPS light gives off around 110 dgrees or hotter. So if the cooler air is 74 and the exhaust is around 110.....the average is 92
 

LUDACRIS

New Member
then how can anyone in the south or mexico grow? its routinely in the 100's for weeks there yet it doesnt kill them. it gets to be 95-100 around here too....my plant just needs to be watered a little bit more during our heat waves. mygirls explained this to me in another thread. his temps get to be in the 90's often but its not a problem since he has good fresh air flow and venting

Temperatures should be between 70-80 degrees F when the light is on. When the light is off the temperature can drop to the low 60's and have no negative effect on the plant.
The temperature should never go below 60 degrees or above 90 degrees (even for short periods) or growth will slow down. If these extremes are exceeded the plant may be permanently damaged or killed.
Humidity should be between 40-60 percent relative humidity. Use a hydrometer to measure humidity if you think your grow area is out of range. A humidifier can increase humidity and a dehumidifier can be used to lower humidity.

LUDA.

 

tommytoker

Member
thanks, someone else said it might be a K defiency. No sign of mold as you described it. Those white/yelowy leaves aren't crunchy but still very pliable.
 

LUDACRIS

New Member
u didnt explain still how mexico and down south can grow outside if its 100f+
patience grasshopper you know i only spit the facts and sorry for taking a join break.


Temperature and Growth Rate
Temperature control should be no problem. The plants can withstand temperatures from freezing to over 100F. Plant growth is closely related to temperature. Marijuana varieties are, in general adapted to warm if not hot climates. Different varieties will reach their maximum rate of photosynthesis at different temperatures. For almost all marijuana varieties, the rate of photosynthesis will increase sharply with increases in temperatures up to about 70F. Some strains reach their peak rate of growth at about &%F. Others, especially from areas near the equator, such as Colombia, may not reach their peak rate until the temperature is about 90F. However, for all varieties, increases in the growth rate will be slight with increased temperatures over 75F. The average temperature for maximum is about 75 to 80F. In other words, normal household temperatures are fine for growing marijuana and no special temperature control is necessary for most gardens.
Don't set up the garden right next to, or in contact with, a heat source such as a radiator or furnace. If the garden is nearby, the plants should do quite well. The plants are most susceptible to cool temperatures during germination and the first few weeks of growth. In basement gardens, the floor temperature is often lower than the air. It is a good idea to raise the pots off the floor with pallets or boxes. The seeds will germinate quicker, and the plants will get off to a faster start.
If heating is necessary, propane catalytic heaters work well, are safe and clean, and increase the carbon-dioxide content of the air. Electric and natural gas heaters also work well. Do not use kerosene or gasoline heaters. They do not burn cleanly, and the pollutants they produce may harm the plants. Any heater that burns a fuel must be clean and in good working order. Otherwise, it may release carbon monoxide, which is more dangerous to you than to the plants.
Temperature and Potency
Since marijuana varieties are most often grown in semi-tropical and tropical areas, the idea that high temperatures are necessary for potent marijuana is firmly entrenched in marijuana lore. This myth, like many others, is slowly disappearing as marijuana farmers and researchers accumulate more experience and knowledge. There are only a few published papers on the effects of temperature on potency. The best study we've seen 19 grew four different varieties in a controlled environment under artificial lights on a 15-hour day-length. Two temperature regimes were used: a "warm" regime, with temperatures of about 73F during the day and 61F at night (about average for most homes); and a "hot" regime, set at 90F daytime and 73F at night. In all four varieties, the concentration of THC and of total cannabinoids was higher under the "warm" regime. For instance, a Nepalese strain was 3.4 times higher in concentration of total cannabinoids, and 4.4 times higher in THC, when grown under the "warm" regime than the same strain grown under the "hot" regime. Although we agree with the findings in principle, these figures are higher than our experience tells us.
Interpretation of the data does show one point clearly. In all four varieties, the amount of THC lost as CBN was higher under the "hot" regime even though the concentration of THC was higher under the "warm" regime.
Another research group in France has looked at the relationship of potency to temperature. The most recent paper 79 compared four temperature regimes, given in descending order of potencies found: 75F day, 75F night (highest potency); 72F day, 54F night; 81F day, 81F night; and 90F day, 54F night (lowest concentration of THC). In each, the day period was 16 hours and the night period eight hours.
Interestingly, this same research group in an earlier paper 20 reported that the concentration of THC was higher for male plants grown at 90-72F then for those grown at 72-54F. For the female plants, the differences in THC concentration were small. The variety used was a propyl variety (type IV) containing about half as much THCV as THC. For both the male and female plants, the concentration of THCV were high under the 90-72F regime.
The simplest interpretation of all these results is that mild temperatures seem to be optimum for potency. Temperatures over 90F or below 60F seem to decrease the concentration of THC and total cannabinoids. Also, at higher temperatures, much more THC will be lost as CBN. And last, propyl varieties may produce less THCV under a cool regime. Bear in mind that none of these papers accounted for all of the many variables that could have affected the findings. For instance, the concentration of THC was 18 times higher at 75-75F than at 90-54F. We've never seen differences of this magnitude, and sampling error undoubtedly influenced the findings.
In terms of growth rate and potency, daily temperatures of about 75F, give or take a few degrees, are roughly optimum. Normal household temperatures are in the low 70's during daytime and the low 60's at night. The heat from a light system will raise the garden's temperature a few degrees. In most gardens temperatures will be near 75F during the day. Night-time temperatures drop about 10 to 15 degrees. When night-time temperatures drop into the 50's or below, set the light cycle to turn on during the early morning, when the temperature will be lowest. In a small room, the light system will generate enough heat to warm the garden without any need for a heater. Whenever you wish to raise the temperature by, say, five or 10 degrees, it is better to add more lights than a heater. The plants will benefit from the additional light, as well as from the heat they generate. And an electric heater, watt for watt, doesn't generate much more heat than a lamp and its fixture.

LUDA.
:mrgreen:
 

LUDACRIS

New Member
Temperature and Humidity


The ideal temperature for the light hours is 68 to 78 degrees fahrenheit and for the dark hours there should be about a 15 degree drop in temperature. The growing room should be relatively dry if possible. What you want is a resinous coating on the leaves and to get the plant to do this, you must convince it that it needs the resinous coating on its leaves to protect itself from drying out. In an extremely humid room, the plants develop wide leaves and do not produce as much resin.

You must take care not to let the temperature in a dry room become too hot, however, since the plant cannot assimilate water fast enough through its roots and its foliage will begin to brown out.

LUDA.
 

meofcurse

Well-Known Member
my problem with temp was that i had spider mites.i moved them to a room with a/c and now its fine.high temps give you problems but its not the end.
 

brasmith

Well-Known Member
what and where can I get k for some of my younger plants at 3-4 wks flwrg?
This new batch you have going may not get the same issues and the batch you are close to harvesting.

Are they also showing the same signs that they may be going that direction?

If they are you need to get right on top of your ph. What is it?

btw....what are they eating and the npk ratios?
 
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