Please judge/criticize my first tent setup

getogrow

getogrow

Well-Known Member
DrUgZrBaD said:
Why could I not? Kitchen counter plugs are 20 amp by code it’s 12-2
So if it’s rated for 20 amps you use a 20 amp breaker.
Also, you didn’t read the first. One right it is 204 volt, you loose your neutral and it becomes a traveller so now you have a double throw breaker. You can max the wire there is nothing wrong with that. Plugs and lights are the exception 12 max On a 15 amp but with all the led you could put 100’s on.
Why are most dryers 30 amp so you run 10-3
I hope you understand what it means to loose the neutral and make it a traveller
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"loosing" the neutral has nothing to do with the ratings of the wires. That just CHANGES the amps.
yes, your correct , if you need a 20 amp circuit then 12 wire is fine but you cannot run 20 full amps on 12 wire. Thats not safe and against codes everywhere. A dryer does not use 30 full amps ever but it does use up to 20 or so , so you have to use 10 wire.

running a 1k light at 120volts = 8.9 amps. running the same light at 240 volts = 4.5 amps
 
DrUgZrBaD

DrUgZrBaD

Well-Known Member
getogrow said:
"loosing" the neutral has nothing to do with the ratings of the wires. That just CHANGES the amps.
yes, your correct , if you need a 20 amp circuit then 12 wire is fine but you cannot run 20 full amps on 12 wire. Thats not safe and against codes everywhere. A dryer does not use 30 full amps ever but it does use up to 20 or so , so you have to use 10 wire.

running a 1k light at 120volts = 8.9 amps. running the same light at 240 volts = 4.5 amps
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There’s nothing wrong with maxing the circuit, the breakers these days are there to stop it, on a gfi turn the power off, go touch the neutral and bond together there’s mv there it trips the gfi,
All plugs besides counter have to be arc faulted and I heard in the near future lights will be arc faulted as well (it make rough ins easier) there’s so much safety. Also I know there’s no code that says if I have a 20 amp appliance and I’m within. My distance tells me that I can’t use 12-2.
We did a multi family building, 100 amp panels. We put 75 amp breakers at the panels.
You know why we were allowed to do that?
we max the size of wire in suite feeds and building services
 
DrUgZrBaD

DrUgZrBaD

Well-Known Member
spek9 said:
Wrong. 80% rule. The additional 20% that make up the circuit rating are for temporary increases, such as a motor startup etc.

You can not run 20A on a 20A circuit continuously.
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When you do kitchen plugs you tube 12-2 the plugs are rated for 20 amp, I don’t know where the fuck you got this 80% bull shit.
you can max the circuit, a 20 amp breaker is good for 20!amps, you use a double pull 20 amp it’s good for 20 each side but you have 102v on each side.
So if I have a 100 amp service I can’t have 100 amps in the home eh?
If it was the way you described we wouldn’t need these arc faults the breakers there for a reason
 
DrUgZrBaD

DrUgZrBaD

Well-Known Member
spek9 said:
Almost every Electrical Code book and regulation that I come across. I suppose being a former licensed electrician (Ontario and Alberta) and current electrical engineer means nothing to an educated, experienced person such as yourself.
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A counter plug is rated for 20 amp max and it goes on a 20 amp breaker, can it handle the load? Yes!
A house has a 200 amp service what is the breaker rated for ? 200 amps
 
getogrow

getogrow

Well-Known Member
spek9 said:
OK, I give. You're right. Everyone should listen to you. LOL
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Yea , i aint never met someone to claim to know more then this guy. Ask your lead man how all this works instead of bashing the code books and guys doing the shit for decades.
Them ground fault breakers have NOTHING to do with this topic , why do you keep bringing them up? Different voltage has nothing to do with this topic? why you keep bringing that up too ?
200 amp service = 160 amps max.
Hell the damn electrical supply house is even selling boxes rated for 80% instead of the whole thing. I installed a 400 amp service and the owner brought me back a 320 amp meter base. I said no , i need a 400.......long story short, turns out the 320 is already 80% so you dont have to do the math. That was a first for me. Usually the box says 400 and you decide what it can handle.
 
getogrow

getogrow

Well-Known Member
Have you ever tested a breaker ? them thangs these days are junk. I do everything by myself so i pop a lot of breakers on purpose and if you leave it up to the breaker , it will let waaaay too much through before popping. (all the newer ite style breakers)
 
Clumpyoyster

Clumpyoyster

Well-Known Member
oill said:
Both mine I ended up with oil all over the place. No fire... but was horrible. 2 times in a row... never again
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MidwestTentGrowerDude said:
Updated tent setup heeding some of the advice here. I also moved around some of the small fans to help circulate air in, around, up, and out :)

Note - also setup intake fan to help draw air in.

View attachment 4522986
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I see those two smaller rectangular lights. Are those x6 cob leds? I have one and it pumps 300w from wall and the light kicks ass in the tent. I also have one of the others that you have there. Also a cob led? I run both my LEDs beside my 600w MH/HPS to get my 1200 watts
 
MidwestTentGrowerDude

MidwestTentGrowerDude

Member
All cleaned up & lowered lights too. I think my plants were stretching (two seedlings fell over).

This thread has much improved my grow setup. Thank you all for your input!

20200405_122427.jpg
 
MidwestTentGrowerDude

MidwestTentGrowerDude

Member
I put my hand under the light by the plants when I had the light way down low and I didnt feel any heat at all. I do have a heat/laser tool - I guess it's a good time to use that.

I assume you just want the plant to be same as relative temperature of the tent, right? (Right now I'm getting 75-80f with the lights 18/6 and exhaust running in 3 hour cycles. Seems I dont need the radiator right now
 
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