Please tell me all you can about Spidermites!! Rep ^^

I need to know if the problem i am dealing with is spider mites. I left my plants alone for 3 days over thanksgiving and when i got back my ak has a ton of dying leave sets. At first I thought it was nute burn, but its seems to be too sporadic.

On the bottom side of the infected leaves their are microscopic black spots covering the viens of the leaves. The leaves first have brown spots and then by the next day they die!! Is this spider mites????? What should I do?? Over 10 leave sets have already died and new ones seem to be infected everyday! Please help!! Should I kill this plant to save the others?! HELP!!

I dont have a pic but It would really help if someone could show me a pic of spidermite damaged leaves!

black spots sounds like spidermite, grab some neem oil.

the spots are only on the viens of the leaves, does that sound right, ive heard neem oil wont kill them, is that true?

?????????????

Neem Oil will "stop" them for a "lil" while, but if you aren't too far into flowering, get yourself some

Pyrethrum ("pie-wreath-rum") Bombs -

Pyrethrum is a natural insecticide made from the flowers of certain species of the chrysanthemum plant. It is a mixture of several different compounds called pyrethrins and cinerins. Originally pyrethrum was made by grinding dried chrysanthemum flowers into a powder. Today, pyrethrum is extracted with solvents but is still widely used in household insect sprays where it is usually combined with another chemical called piperonyl butoxide (PBO).
About 200 years ago people in central Asia discovered that dried, crushed flowers of certain chrysanthemums were toxic to insects. During the Napoleonic Wars (1804-1815) this "insect powder" was used to control flea and body lice infestations by French soldiers. Since then, pyrethrum has been used in many forms for effective, low toxicity insect control. However, because natural pyrethrum is not stable in sunlight it is seldom used in commercial agriculture.

If you have mites, and I am truly sorry to hear ANYONE who has to go through this experience, get a magnify glass, make sure and spray with Neem and plain water very often!
Use a vacuum to suck those things away but make sure you use a hepa-filter.
If you see webs, get rid of them, these things are persistent and will come back and com e back and come back, you HAVE to be clean and WAGE WAR on THEM EVERY DAY!
If you can save your harvest, after you take your plants down, DON'T LET ANYONE tell you that you can grow right away in that room, you HAVE to bomb it, bleach it, wait several months, than bomb your room again, bleach it again, and bomb and clean and hope and keep bombing and cleaning.

Bugs hate Cold and Humid, and love hot and dry, so make it cooler in there.

Good luck brother, Spier Mites Suck. I want to make a t-shirt that says that!

You can tell by the spots on the leafs if you have them. Pin size dots on the leaf. If you got them bad you can see the webs. Get yourself a magnifying glass and look at the underneath. you can see the little buggers moving. Neem will kill them but you need to understand the enemy. You need to kill them 2 or 3 times because neem, soap or any other natural will not Kill Kill them. You need to get at them every 4 to 6 days to kill all the hatches. Just google spider mites you might have the red ones. Two types I think. Take 1 part dish detergent like dawn ade 10 parts water mix in a pail and dunk the plant in it upsidedown, don't put the pot in it. Repeat every 5 to 6 days 3 times.

Now if you want to kill them you need to use something systemic. (become part of the plant for a short time. eg. flow in the veins) for that you would use something comercial

There are several commercial miticides that can be used early in the season to kill mites.
Pyrethrum has been used to kill mites. It is a natural pesticide produced by a close relative of the chrysanthemum. The problem with using it is that many races of mites have developed immunity to it. However, it is the first miticide you should try.
Cinnamite comes as a concentrate that is diluted and sprayed on the plants. It contains a miticide derived from cinnamon oil. It is very safe and is rated least hazardous. It is quite effective but it doesn't kill the eggs. It should be used every three days for two weeks to make sure all the mites are killed soon after they hatch. It is a contact spray so plants should be dipped or sprayed on the leaf undersides. It is also effective against powdery mildew.
Neem oil is a natural miticide derived from the nuts of the Neem tree, which is found in India. It is a mite repellent as well, so some gardeners use it as a prophylactic, spraying it on a weekly basis. I mix neem oil with Cinnamite to eliminate small infections. Cinnamite and neem oil are also used against powdery mildew.
For growers who distrust anything commercial, try an ?herbal tea? that acts as a miticide. To each quart of water use a tablespoon each of ground cinnamon, ground clove and 2 tablespoons of ground Italian seasoning. Heat the mixture until it starts to simmer, then turn off the heat. Add 2 tablespoons crushed fresh garlic when the water cools to warm. Let the tea sit until it cools. Strain and save the water using a cloth or coffee filter. Add a few drops of liquid soap or dishwashing liquid to the water. It is ready to be sprayed on the leaf undersides. After spraying the mites off with water, spray it on the leaf undersides. It will eliminate the mites if it is sprayed every three days after the wash. Within two weeks the mites will probably be gone.
Avid is a miticide registered for ornamental plants. Its active ingredient is abamectin, a derivative of a toxin originally found in soil bacteria. Avid is not registered for use on vegetables except in certain restricted situations. Other brands of abamectin such as AgriMek by Syngenta are registered for a wide range of crops. The AgriMek label calls for a minimum of a seven day wait between application and harvest. I wouldn't use marijuana if I knew it was treated with this pesticide during the last few weeks of flowering.
Some gardeners have reported success controlling mites using predatory mites or other predators. These carnivorous mites reach an equilibrium with the herbivorous mites, keeping damage to a bare minimum. I have tried introducing mixed species of predatory mites a few times but have never been satisfied with the results. They did not get the problem under control. However, they can work and some gardeners swear by them. I probably didn't provide them with the right conditions. There are also other predators that eat mites, but I have no experience using them.
Ultimately, the solution to the mite problem and the pest problem in general is to prevent the garden from becoming infected. Following certain simple rules will help:
Wear freshly washed clothes or change into a garden outfit when going into the garden.
Never work outdoors, especially in a garden or other vegetative or turf area right before working in your indoor garden.
Pests are frequently carried in on shoes. Do like Mr. Rogers and change your footwear before you enter the garden.
Don't use outdoor soil, tools or containers in the indoor garden
If a plant is to be introduced to the garden, first do a close examination and then put it in quarantine for five or six days. Examine it closely, especially the underside of leaves, before placing it in the garden.
Close up any unfiltered airways or holes through which plant pests might enter. Make sure that air intake from outside is filtered.

lol id buy that t-shirt! what bad luck i have my first grow and i have spidermites. Im really praying I'm wrong and wish I could get an expert to tell me for sure.. do spidermites usually attatch themselves to the vien of the leaves, it's really the only place i see these black dots?

Hang a vapona strip in your grow room... works awesome!!!

Hot Shot No Pest Strips - $8 at most hardware stores. Seal up the grow for 2 or 3 days with one of these - no vents, fans or HID lighting - use a few cfls to maintain the light cycle. Come back, vent well - the vapor isn't good for you. Seal up the Pest strip in a bag. No bugs. Just to be sure, I did the same about 10 days later. 5 months now and haven't seen one since.

get some ladybugs. they eat all the mites and just kinda sit around in your room they wont fly everywhere really. after the mites are gone they die. super easy. dont waste your time with oils and sprays.