PM in late flower. Best organic solution?

curious2garden

curious2garden

Well-Known Mod
Staff member
MAGpie81 said:
Awesome brother, thanks for the vid!
I’ve thought about IPA (IsoPropylAlcohol) before but, like you said, it can dissolve trics/thc. The raising of the pH is a great idea (or can make inhospitable by lowering with the citric acid).
I was in town and picked up more citric, which is an ingredient in what I ended up using; I found the pictured item (not organic but looks to be close(?) while calling around inquiring about potassium bicarbonate, and the dude went reading all the labels for me, and this one sounded good for a couple big hits, and then I’ll switch to citric&h2o ‘cause it’s far cheaper. Gotta few more weeks to try to push’em!
Maybe I’ll alternate with a sodium bicarbonate solution… but ANY input is highly welcome- I like your spray style- I use 1gal pump spray and misted the crap out of mine. I’m still weary on the alcohol part, but a little oil or soap that would easy rinse might work nice. But afterwash- citric makes everything (your hands included) squeaky-shined, haha.
Will share plant pics in next post
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You just paid a lot of money for citric acid, unless you have Orchid black spot I don't think you need Cinnamon Oil and as for Peppermint oil I wonder what that smokes like. I really would have went with Citric acid alone. Although I use Marrone Regalia, organic, expensive as shit, extremely reliable and can be used almost to harvest.

Anyway I wish you the best PM is no fun, good luck.
 
MAGpie81

MAGpie81

Well-Known Member
xtsho said:
I don't know if you want to alternate. One is low pH the other is high. You could also have a reaction if you spray citric acid after potassium or sodium bicarbonate and there is still a residue left. Like adding vinegar to baking soda. I've never done it so I don't know how much of an issue it would be if any.
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Very true about the residue.
I shouldn’t experiment too much this late.
Going to stick with citric after I run out of BTE, which will be just a couple more applications at the high-ppm rate. It says 30-175ml per gal- I started heavy with 175 to knock it back hopefully. Only got a quart of the stuff and heavy drenched all plants with 2gal. (not all plants shown, but most).
Thanks for the advice
 
MAGpie81

MAGpie81

Well-Known Member
curious2garden said:
You just paid a lot of money for citric acid, unless you have Orchid black spot I don't think you need Cinnamon Oil and as for Peppermint oil I wonder what that smokes like. I really would have went with Citric acid alone. Although I use Marrone Regalia, organic, expensive as shit, extremely reliable and can be used almost to harvest.

Anyway I wish you the best PM is no fun, good luck.
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Yeah, I plan on doing a citric dunk I think, after harvesting, to clean them up. Never tried but have heard good results and would rather that than no harvest at all or too early and having only oils and extracts.
The peppermint and cinnamon should keep pests at bay, and I just got paid, so said “what-the-hell” and spent ~$50 on a quart :eyesmoke:
The citric-crystals I bought were way cheaper- about $8 a pint-image.jpg
 
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S

SmichiganOG

Well-Known Member
MAGpie81 said:
Swinging towards milk, baking soda, or citric acid.

Anyone have first-hand experience using any of these in late flower (strains are Durban Poison and Kwazulu; both are Sativas so longer-flowering)?

How, or was, taste affected?
Did you have to rinse before drying?
Did it get rid of all, or at least most, of the PM?

I know this question is an annual/common one, but hoping for specific experience with spraying on buds that are about to ripen (-bulking up, hairs being over-taken by calyx’, etc.)

It’s mid-September, Mendocino Coast, CA(US)

Thanks in advance
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I use Actinovate or cheaper equivalent for all fugus Issues. Better to star early but failing that I use it anyway.
 
MAGpie81

MAGpie81

Well-Known Member
SmichiganOG said:
I use Actinovate or cheaper equivalent for all fugus Issues. Better to star early but failing that I use it anyway.
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Will check out that product.
Pre-/and up to second week flower I gave them treatments of citric and rosemary tea.
Also used milk and rosemary tea early on, plus a number of similar things, and baking soda in veg before any problem had arose.
Just yesterday morn,there were a small spots of pm on a couple of the revegged monsters.
I went into high alert; I was hoping to not have to spray again. So, excluding sulphur, the BTE was the best thing to fit my parameters and was a tested product, I figured it may be a good nuke option. Also- it has unspecified “enzymes” which I don’t, haha.

Did my second spray of BTE at 175ml/gal.
Seems to have one day left of the same in it so I’m going to go for that, then switch to only citric, at maybe twice a week, just to stay on top of it.
 
MAGpie81

MAGpie81

Well-Known Member
Sir Napsalot said:
I'd get rid of that straw
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Had covered it with rice hulls, but no matter now, it’s all been chopped now. The rains have come and my screen only over them only slows it so much.
That’s okay, I’m happy with the product, especially the Kwazulu which seemed to ripen quicker than the others. Nice spattering of red trichomes, and only lost some to bud rot. Great flavor and uplifting high that still makes my eyelids a little droopy.
 
PioneerValleyOG

PioneerValleyOG

Well-Known Member
Milk
MAGpie81 said:
Swinging towards milk, baking soda, or citric acid.

Anyone have first-hand experience using any of these in late flower (strains are Durban Poison and Kwazulu; both are Sativas so longer-flowering)?

How, or was, taste affected?
Did you have to rinse before drying?
Did it get rid of all, or at least most, of the PM?

I know this question is an annual/common one, but hoping for specific experience with spraying on buds that are about to ripen (-bulking up, hairs being over-taken by calyx’, etc.)

It’s mid-September, Mendocino Coast, CA(US)

Thanks in advance
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milk
 
MAGpie81

MAGpie81

Well-Known Member
mandocat said:
Used milk before, never again, left a residue and wasn't very effective. You can spray Zerotol, which is just a super charged form of hydrogen peroxide, within an hour of harvest and it is very effective! I also use it to wash plants after harvest. No residue, ever!
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I’ve wondered about the H2O2 method- specifically about if it left residue or not; I’m aware it breaking down into just water once it loses an O, but have also been afraid of it burning the plant.
If H2O2 works as well as claimed, I’d order a cheap gallon (or more) of it online, or even pay retail for smaller quantities or the 30%-grade you can get at hardware stores and mix my own.
Thank you for the info!
 
M

mandocat

Well-Known Member
MAGpie81 said:
I’ve wondered about the H2O2 method- specifically about if it left residue or not; I’m aware it breaking down into just water once it loses an O, but have also been afraid of it burning the plant.
If H2O2 works as well as claimed, I’d order a cheap gallon (or more) of it online, or even pay retail for smaller quantities or the 30%-grade you can get at hardware stores and mix my own.
Thank you for the info!
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I do not use regular H202, I use this and if you follow the mixing instructions you will not burn the plant. I have been using it on my outdoor grow for years. It has been a game changer for me! https://biosafesystems.com/product/zerotol-2/
 
PioneerValleyOG

PioneerValleyOG

Well-Known Member
mandocat said:
Used milk before, never again, left a residue and wasn't very effective. You can spray Zerotol, which is just a super charged form of hydrogen peroxide, within an hour of harvest and it is very effective! I also use it to wash plants after harvest. No residue, ever!
Click to expand...
Worked fine for me
 
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