Possible Problem "pictures"
- Thread starter fishizil
- Start date
upthearsenal
Well-Known Member
yes, your plants look like they are sick. what is your nutrient regimen?
check this out and see if it helps
http://www.1stmarijuanagrowerspage.com/how-to-grow-weed-3.html
check this out and see if it helps
http://www.1stmarijuanagrowerspage.com/how-to-grow-weed-3.html
Really? Jeez I thought I had a problem but I have been getting good growth up until now. I have been using fox farms grow big, big bloom and tiger bloom. I followed the charts and even went a little less this time. I burnt my plants,ovetnuted last grow and didn't want it to happen again.
I emptied and filled my res 4 days ago and have only added enough nutes to get ppm to 200.
So what should I do? The chart says to add n and p but I had that in and my plants stopped growing.
Thanks
I emptied and filled my res 4 days ago and have only added enough nutes to get ppm to 200.
So what should I do? The chart says to add n and p but I had that in and my plants stopped growing.
Thanks
upthearsenal
Well-Known Member
that ppm is really reasonable, what are your pH levels? higher levels lockout micronutes, it might be a mag def. i know tiger bloom has trace minerals, but some times you still need to supplement.
My ph is at 5-6. Do you think I should just leave it as is for a while? I don't want to burn the roots. I could add some things but I was thinking to just flush them for abt a week and see what happens.
I'm pretty close right? How much longer do you think I have before I harvest.
I'm pretty close right? How much longer do you think I have before I harvest.
upthearsenal
Well-Known Member
not too sure how long you have left, what strain is it? it has to be at least three weeks, the majority of the hairs are still bright white.
did you mean 5.6? or 5 through 6? 5.6 six is good, i like mine there abouts. it would be okay to flush, that's the safe option, just start all over and maybe keep the ppms the same but supplement more micro nutes, she also looks like she could use a bit of P (purple stems) these are the days when she is putting on most weight.
did you mean 5.6? or 5 through 6? 5.6 six is good, i like mine there abouts. it would be okay to flush, that's the safe option, just start all over and maybe keep the ppms the same but supplement more micro nutes, she also looks like she could use a bit of P (purple stems) these are the days when she is putting on most weight.
upthearsenal
Well-Known Member
right, that seems weird. does it fluctuate? mine rises pretty quickly, i let it reach 6.5 sometimes so i know my plants are getting mg
http://www.420magazine.com/forums/indoor-soil-cultivation/114733-ph-nutrient-uptake-charts.html
http://www.420magazine.com/forums/indoor-soil-cultivation/114733-ph-nutrient-uptake-charts.html
upthearsenal
Well-Known Member
they should get better, and you'll noticed them not getting worse. those affects will not be reversed.
horribleherk
Well-Known Member
what are you growing in?? i feed at 5.8-6.2 but im growing in rockwool & use gh-nutes one mo0re question have you sprayed for spider mites or used a no-pest strip recently ??? some of those symptoms can resemble nute/ph. issues
horribleherk
Well-Known Member
that stuff from sierra natural science thats made from rosemary oil is getting a lot of good reviews i used a hot-shot no pest strip & caused a major die off & my leaves resembled yours is why i asked i now only put strip in overnight then remove it before my light kicks on the hot-shot caused die off in 2 other peoples growes before we figured it out these arent very good pics but one of them has good view of the damage, i was able to save the grow but my yield suffered
horribleherk
Well-Known Member
ps i think ideal ph for rockwool is 5.9
horribleherk
Well-Known Member
not quite yet looks like maybe another week or so
Learning all the time
Active Member
get a microscope from your grow store. the 30x kind, not the 100x. turn the light on and press the opening to a healthy trichome covered leaf. look at the color of the trichomes. you are looking for a ratio of clear to opaque to amber. clear are not fully developed/mature/ripe, whatever word you choose to use. opaque are mature. amber are degraded. harvesting at different times of the trichomes life cycle will change the type of high you recieve, intensity, area of effect, etc. to test this theory label your buds as you clip and look at the trichomes. take a nice sample of the same plant from different stages and smoke them seperately, then decide when is best for you to harvest.
spartinniffer
Member
alright 1st of all its not a ph lvl problem it seems like u spilled somenutrients ontop of the gurls and u let the heat dry it off if so water and water them they should be alright...if not that did u spray them down with water and let the heat also dry it up cause that can be it as well..if that is not the case at all ten u have a magnesium deficiency this will help ...
Magnesium
Magnesium is a component of the chlorophyll molecule and serves as a cofactor in most enzymes.
Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.
Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure 8-1.
Notice how in Figure 8-2 and 8-3 the leaves curl upwards like they're praying? They're praying for Mg! The tips may also twist.
This can be quickly resolved by watering with 1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.
If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter.
Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients
Magnesium
Magnesium is a component of the chlorophyll molecule and serves as a cofactor in most enzymes.
Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.
Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure 8-1.
Notice how in Figure 8-2 and 8-3 the leaves curl upwards like they're praying? They're praying for Mg! The tips may also twist.
This can be quickly resolved by watering with 1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.
If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter.
Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients
Learning all the time
Active Member
thanks for the rep whoever that was...