Post your organic flowering feeding schedule

DoobieDoobs

Well-Known Member
Like the other guy said, check out Biobizz. Its a little pricey but if it works and saves you from the hassle of teas and shit, its worth it; especially if it works better.
yeah, I really like doing the teas xD, my teas are simple just molasses, compost and ewc, I add a little fish emulsion for vegetative stage, I give compost tea to all the plants in my house. Still fun to do atm.
 

myke

Well-Known Member
Flower Top Dress

Week One: Neem or alfalfa + kelp. 1 teaspoon each/5 gallons of pot size

Week Two: Crab Shell + kelp. 1 teaspoon each/5 gallons of soil

Week Four: Crab shell + kelp. 1 teaspoon each/5 gallons of soil

Week 5: about 2 cups of compost or EWC or rotting wood chunks

Week 6: Alfalfa (1 teaspoons/5 gallons) crab shell (1/2 teaspoon/ 5 gallons)+ langbeinite ( like 1/4 teaspoon per 5 gallons on soil

Week 8: Alfalfa (1 teaspoon/5 gallons) + langbeinite (1/4 teaspoon/5 gallons)


High Brix Feeding

Week 1: alfalfa / kelp tea. 2 teaspoons each soaked in 5 gallons of water for 24 hours.

Week 2: fish hydrolysate. 2 teaspoons for 5gallons water.

Week 3: TM-7. 1/2 teaspoon / 5gallons water

Start this rotation in veg and keep it rolling all through flower.

I also use silica about once per week, on opposite waterings from the High Brix feedings. Sometime I don't want to pour liquid stuff on my youngest/smallest vegging plants so I foliar spray the high Brix stuff in early veg.
The week 5, 2 cups is that per 5 gallon pot?
thanks
 

youraveragehorticulturist

Well-Known Member
The week 5, 2 cups is that per 5 gallon pot?
thanks
I guess it's just a rough guideline. Whatever is going to cover the top of your soil a couple inches deep, without making a big mess. 2 cups of compost may not be enough for a 7 gallon pot and 4 cups might be too much for a 10 gallon pot.
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
Did you just read the big bold title? The two paragraphs under it work to disprove that theory.... Basically says as long as your not using a massive dose, it wont hurt them.
Yes, I read the whole thing, which is why I posted it. What I posted there completely backs up my assertions earlier in this thread, and also why I called it a counter-point to the authors of the book "teaming with microbes". Please pay attention.

Interesting post man, it's good to know bottled nutrients doesn't actually kill the microorganisms in the soil. I'm still not going to use them because I'm going full organic, plus I don't want to buy any more bottled nutrients. But this new information is very appreciated, thank you.
I respect that. I think organic is great, but make sure that you really understand all the in's and out's of soil science management. This books is the text for many College level soil science classes (if you want non bro-science, but do want actual science): https://www.amazon.com/Soil-Science-Management-Edward-Plaster/dp/0840024320
 

ComfortCreator

Well-Known Member
Yes, I read the whole thing, which is why I posted it. What I posted there completely backs up my assertions earlier in this thread, and also why I called it a counter-point to the authors of the book "teaming with microbes". Please pay attention.



I respect that. I think organic is great, but make sure that you really understand all the in's and out's of soil science management. This books is the text for many College level soil science classes (if you want non bro-science, but do want actual science): https://www.amazon.com/Soil-Science-Management-Edward-Plaster/dp/0840024320
I get a kick out of the idea that it might be considered "cheating" to add something to an organic grow. Or that anybody gives a sxxx about whether it's a pure organic grow or not.

Organic isn't a church with membership and requirements.

Teas, topdressings, ewc, dry amendments, salts...if you can get to a great finish, good for you, is my view.

I cannot agree more with your view that much of the religious-style organic hype is to make the effort seem so worthwhile.
 

Northwood

Well-Known Member
Organic isn't a church with membership and requirements.
Obviously science should be the driver that shapes a grow system, whether based on synthetics or organic inputs or both. I remember when hydroponics was a "church", and people paid big dollars to many snake oil salesmen for membership. Back in the late 80s, early 90s, it was a popular thought that you couldn't produce anything of quality growing any other way except by hydro. Any good bud was often called "hydro" regardless if it was grown that way or not. It's organic's turn now. Money always finds a way! lol

For organic "soil" growers, I would exercise caution however when adding salts to your soil. That means getting a complete soil analysis and nitrogen management report from an accredited lab before deciding if, what, and how much to add. If you consistently add even a bit more than the plant can use up before the next feeding, you'll get an imbalance that could lead to toxicity or lockout conditions which will adversely affect your soil life and kill your plants. Soil is not hydro where we have full control over the nutrient levels available to the plant at all times. Adding a synthetic nute solution called "Ultra Hugely Bud Enhancer" or whatever the salesman might call it in an amount "guessed" by the grower is foolish.

What limits microbial mass in field soil is most often carbon, not N, P, or K (since they add that). Farmers for generations now have been applying nitrates or urea to the soil (which bacteria love), however the carbon they need to take advantage of it becomes less available as bacteria populations explode shortly after application, since their respiration removes the last remnants of carbon from the soil in the form of CO2. The loss in soil carbon contributes to a corresponding loss in soil tilth, lowers CEC, as well as microbial mass over the long term. Even with a soil test, I would advise those who want to use synthetics to insure they always have enough digestible carbon to achieve a reasonable C:N ratio. For those doing no-till, I'd avoid salts completely unless you had a dire emergency (confirmed by a soil test).
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
Obviously science should be the driver that shapes a grow system, whether based on synthetics or organic inputs or both. I remember when hydroponics was a "church", and people paid big dollars to many snake oil salesmen for membership. Back in the late 80s, early 90s, it was a popular thought that you couldn't produce anything of quality growing any other way except by hydro. Any good bud was often called "hydro" regardless if it was grown that way or not. It's organic's turn now. Money always finds a way! lol

For organic "soil" growers, I would exercise caution however when adding salts to your soil. That means getting a complete soil analysis and nitrogen management report from an accredited lab before deciding if, what, and how much to add. If you consistently add even a bit more than the plant can use up before the next feeding, you'll get an imbalance that could lead to toxicity or lockout conditions which will adversely affect your soil life and kill your plants. Soil is not hydro where we have full control over the nutrient levels available to the plant at all times. Adding a synthetic nute solution called "Ultra Hugely Bud Enhancer" or whatever the salesman might call it in an amount "guessed" by the grower is foolish.

What limits microbial mass in field soil is most often carbon, not N, P, or K (since they add that). Farmers for generations now have been applying nitrates or urea to the soil (which bacteria love), however the carbon they need to take advantage of it becomes less available as bacteria populations explode shortly after application, since their respiration removes the last remnants of carbon from the soil in the form of CO2. The loss in soil carbon contributes to a corresponding loss in soil tilth, lowers CEC, as well as microbial mass over the long term. Even with a soil test, I would advise those who want to use synthetics to insure they always have enough digestible carbon to achieve a reasonable C:N ratio. For those doing no-till, I'd avoid salts completely unless you had a dire emergency (confirmed by a soil test).
The OP is growing in 15 gallon containers, not in actual soil.
 

Northwood

Well-Known Member
Yea. start out with very low concentrations. Simple.
For sure, if your soil analysis (for both available and potential mineralizable nutes) calls for low concentrations. Otherwise use higher concentrations if tests confirm. However by caution I meant using science, not thinking "a little of this can't hurt in my organic grow, because the label says grows GIANT nugs!". No sense even adding a tiny bit of P or anything else if you're already on the edge of toxicity. And you wouldn't know this without employing science and sending samples (either tissue or soil) for analysis. Just throwing salts in your (formerly) organic grow simply because of the label's claims is stupid to put it bluntly.
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
For sure, if your soil analysis (for both available and potential mineralizable nutes) calls for low concentrations. Otherwise use higher concentrations if tests confirm. However by caution I meant using science, not thinking "a little of this can't hurt in my organic grow, because the label says grows GIANT nugs!". No sense even adding a tiny bit of P or anything else if you're already on the edge of toxicity. And you wouldn't know this without employing science and sending samples (either tissue or soil) for analysis. Just throwing salts in your (formerly) organic grow simply because of the label's claims is stupid to put it bluntly.
He's using potting soil in containers.
 

Northwood

Well-Known Member
My point is that it's not actual field soil, and suggesting that he do a soil analysis for his potting mix in his small tent grow is unrealistic.
Yes, it might be unrealistic to spend $50 for at least a SLAN test and basic analysis for a little grow tent. In the absence of any data or science, it makes a great argument for not adding ANY nutrient salts to your potted medium in little organic grows. Thanks for the reminder!
 

JoeBlow5823

Well-Known Member
My point is that it's not actual field soil, and suggesting that he do a soil analysis for his potting mix in his small tent grow is unrealistic.
Extremely unrealistic. Soil comes blended to grow weed. No testing needed. If they look hungry, feed them a little bit. Pretty simple.
 

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
Yes, it might be unrealistic to spend $50 for at least a SLAN test and basic analysis for a little grow tent. In the absence of any data or science, it makes a great argument for not adding ANY nutrient salts to your potted medium in little organic grows. Thanks for the reminder!
Well of course you wouldn't add nutrient salts to organic grows, because then they wouldn't be organic grows anymore. For folks who aren't worried abut being organic purists, but do want the benefits of an organic based medium, better advice is to learn to read the plants needs and feed them accordingly.
 

Northwood

Well-Known Member
The scientific data is that the plants look hungry.
Or it could be lockout due to an excess of something else, soil pH, toxicity, or even environmental issues. If you're a walking laboratory and can sense a specific deficiency and know how much of that specific element to add to correct the issue, then I'm guessing you're way above my pay grade!

Anyway grow your "organics" the way you like. At least if newbies see this shit-thread they keep the "Marijuana Plant Problems" section of the site busy so that more experienced growers can go there and say "it's not a deficiency bro, you burned the crap outta ur plants!" over, and over, and over again.
 

Northwood

Well-Known Member
Well of course you wouldn't add nutrient salts to organic grows, because then they wouldn't be organic grows anymore. For folks who aren't worried abut being organic purists, but do want the benefits of an organic based medium, better advice is to learn to read the plants needs and feed them accordingly.
Best to switch to hydro. That way you know you're not going to have nutrient shortages, buildup, or eventual toxicity if you follow simple directions. You can dial in your known phenos and produce great results grow after grow forever. Funny to hear the word "science" and "read the plants!" in the same thread. Irony isn't dead after all!
 

Northwood

Well-Known Member
I'd take the advice of @PadawanWarrior too, especially the part where he says listen to my advice. LMAO! *kidding*

Seriously though, I think we all have to remember that this forum isn't restricted to advanced growers only. Some may perhaps have an ability to read a plant instinctively somehow and know whether it's missing boron or manganese or calcium and that it's not lockout, but some poor soul with only a few grows under his belt may not have that ability. I don't have that ability yet, and I've been growing for over 40 years. Maybe it will come to me sometime, but I'm getting old now and need a method that's easy, dummy-proof, and doesn't present issues that take up my time or raise my anxiety levels. I just have other stuff to do, like argue on this forum! Haha
 
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