PPM/EC GH feed chat recommendations

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
I'm growing DWC. And this is my first grow. 600w hps / White Russian fem 1x. First week of flowering 1650ppm. Tap water 160ppm. I haven't had any problems for now. I hope I don't have any problems.
Sometimes I have calcium deficiency, but now I'm giving cal-mag over normal. I'm washing the roots if anything goes wrong. I change the reservoir water once a week. Finally drip a drop of clorox bleach into the reservoir.It prevents the formation of algae and harmful bacteria with 1 drop clorox bleach for nutrient water or hydrogen peroxide .
I read that the peroxide could seriously damage the roots. For this reason I use "clorox bleach" my roots are healthy.
Sodium hypochlorite in the bleach cleans the roots of pests. He called me "Snype."

Tap water:140-160ppm?
14lt water tap
My nutes:
40ml Sensi bloom a+b
20ml bud candy
20ml Sensizym
20ml root juice
20ml power zyme
25ml Kushie kush
30ml sensi calmag
Ph 5.5 - 6.0 Ec 1600/1700

View attachment 4289793
HPS for whatever reason handles a much higher PPM from what I've gathered .
 

gr865

Well-Known Member
even the Lucas formula (designed solely for cannabis) is 8ml micro/ 16 ml bloom. that burnt the crap otu of my plants. then i learned to use my EC meter to determine how much my plants need to be fed.
Rocky, I did the 8/16 in my Hempys, burned the shit out of them.
When I switched to coco I went with H3Ad's take on Lucas, think it was 6/9. Burned the shit out of them. I ended up with a 3/6 and it was ok.
Then I switched to Canna nutes and I have modified their recommendations. Less is More, I am at 300 to 400 ppm A&B in flower. I try to keep it closer to 300 ppm. Here is my last sheet from my mix, I keep a sheet on each mix.
20190224_111526 (2).jpg

I am really not sure why the A&B is at 400 ppm in this mix. I have been using 6 ml of A&B in all my mixes and they have been a lot closer to 300 than 400 ppm. I may be that I have switched from using a large animal syringe to a beaker (not as accurate), but will be going back to the syringe.

You have any thoughts on this?

@ shpejt

Sorry buddy, did not mean to cut into your thread. But remember Less is More!
 

5BY5LEC

Well-Known Member
RDWC is the shit. I think the amount of O2 you are pumping in has a linear effect on how much nutrients you use. More air, less nutes. FWIW I never went over 650 on the .5 scale. 750 and I got burned tips, so I dropped it back.
I used tap and had a background of 80-100 or so by the way.
 

gr865

Well-Known Member
RDWC is the shit. I think the amount of O2 you are pumping in has a linear effect on how much nutrients you use. More air, less nutes. FWIW I never went over 650 on the .5 scale. 750 and I got burned tips, so I dropped it back.
I used tap and had a background of 80-100 or so by the way.
I agree, not sure why my A&B went to 400, unless its the beaker, that was very strange. I try to keep my mix at a high point of 650.
Using Smart Pots and DTW provides amble O2 to the coco.
Your last sentence could be the answer, I used 14.66 gallons of RO but was short so added .33 gallons of my tap, which by the way sucks, 800 + ppm. That brought my starting ppm from 52 to 75.
 

yummy fur

Well-Known Member
My own experiences are leading me to the hypothesis that whether a plant can take a heavy defoliation, or a high dose of nutrient is very much dependent on the overall size, vigour and healthy the root system. For my money, the small grower is better off tailoring a DWC into an SWC 'shallow water culture'. This allows for a larger physical expanse of root as well as a large springy ball that sits in a shallow pool.
 

yummy fur

Well-Known Member
Agreed that SWC is very underrated and overlooked in the community. Shit works wonders.
I have looked at very many diaries and frankly I have been amazed that so far I have seen exactly zero. From my own recent grow both using a different SWC method but both allowing for a very large root mass, has caused my auto to slow down their maturation during the stretch so they develop stronger. It's as if the plant can sense the size of it's root mass and develops the upper part of the plant accordingly.
 

JealousLeaf

Active Member
My own experiences are leading me to the hypothesis that whether a plant can take a heavy defoliation, or a high dose of nutrient is very much dependent on the overall size, vigour and healthy the root system. For my money, the small grower is better off tailoring a DWC into an SWC 'shallow water culture'. This allows for a larger physical expanse of root as well as a large springy ball that sits in a shallow pool.
I hadn't heard of this,do you have any links about doing this,techniques,info? Not asking you to do a bunch of work for me,just if you have a few bookmarks. I'll be looking myself as well. Thanks for bringing that up! I
 

yummy fur

Well-Known Member
I hadn't heard of this,do you have any links about doing this,techniques,info? Not asking you to do a bunch of work for me,just if you have a few bookmarks. I'll be looking myself as well. Thanks for bringing that up! I
It didn't really come from anywhere, just an amalgam of things I've seen. Basically all hydro is, is tubs and tubes, there's so many ways to do make the basic idea work. Here's some shots of the first method where the roots emerge into a big space the idea is for the jets to make the roots come out of the sides of the pot.

My current grow uses the large pot method but it still emerges into a separate shallow pool. I'll put some shots of that up too if you want to see them...
 

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Ibn Vapin

Well-Known Member
OP, sometimes you will run across a strain that can take full manufacturer feed. Most of them probably will not, though. I had a half pounder I fed at full mfgr feed up until she slowed down drinking in late late flower.

Just make sure you do your research. A heavy feeding strain will likely be able to eat more than a light feeder, so just keep that in mind. Most people start with 1/4 to 1/2 strength nutes, even with GH, which is the brand I use :)
 

JealousLeaf

Active Member
It didn't really come from anywhere, just an amalgam of things I've seen. Basically all hydro is, is tubs and tubes, there's so many ways to do make the basic idea work. Here's some shots of the first method where the roots emerge into a big space the idea is for the jets to make the roots come out of the sides of the pot.

My current grow uses the large pot method but it still emerges into a separate shallow pool. I'll put some shots of that up too if you want to see them...
Those roots! Nice work bro! Thanks for showing that. You've seen a difference since you started doing it this way?
 

JealousLeaf

Active Member
That sounds smart,I hadn't thought of it that way before,unless the "plant" parts are burned or too cold,or wind or something like that,everything else really does start and end with the roots.
 

ounevinsmoke

Well-Known Member
I read that the peroxide could seriously damage the roots. For this reason I use "clorox bleach" my roots are healthy.
Peroxide wont damage anything. Safer than bleach in my opinion. You can use peroxide as mouth wash or cleanse your ear with it, as well as put it right on an open wound. Cant say the same for bleach. I know you are using a small amount of bleach for a good cause but its still bleach. I've used it before but when I think of what I want my plants exposed to bleach is not on the list.
 

ounevinsmoke

Well-Known Member
LOL. you've never handled 30% or higher peroxide then. it's an unbelievably powerful oxidizer.

and just as an FYI, chlorine is a tertiary nutrient for cannabis.
Obviously, that's why Peroxide is 3% in the drug store. Clorox Bleach is made of quite a few things not just chlorine or sodium hypochlorite. I'm not here to argue, Just stated my opinion. Like I said, I have used bleach before I just believe peroxide is a safer option, and I will leave it at that. Everyone here has the ability to do their own research and make their own educated decisions.
 
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yummy fur

Well-Known Member
For the record, I'm using GH 3 part nutes. No added anything else. It's what I was using over 20 years ago. I discovered that 800 was really all a hydro plant needed. However I have a very vigorous plant that has two separated but connected masses of roots, so I thought I'd experiment with higher than normal dosages.

So I upped it to 1400, and there was no adverse reaction. After 5 days it was back down to 1000 so I topped it back up to 1400. Now the question is, 'does it make any difference' as opposed to if I had kept it at 800. Maybe maybe not. Really this is one of those things that one needs to verify for oneself.
 

fartoblue

Well-Known Member
For the record, I'm using GH 3 part nutes. No added anything else. It's what I was using over 20 years ago. I discovered that 800 was really all a hydro plant needed. However I have a very vigorous plant that has two separated but connected masses of roots, so I thought I'd experiment with higher than normal dosages.

So I upped it to 1400, and there was no adverse reaction. After 5 days it was back down to 1000 so I topped it back up to 1400. Now the question is, 'does it make any difference' as opposed to if I had kept it at 800. Maybe maybe not. Really this is one of those things that one needs to verify for oneself.
Is that PPM (hanna)? I took this grow to 800 (1.6 ec) and burned the feck out of them. Was going to keep to 600ppm top wack for next grow.
I did grow mixed strains last time which is something I will try to avoid in future as some took it worse than others. Barneys Farm Blue Gelato took everything in it's stride PH all over the place root rot, thrips, they seem to be bomb proof.
 
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