Prakasa 120w LED Power Driver Replacement/identification HELP!!!!

Hi mates, hoping there is some electrical savvy peoples in here who could help me with changing me led driver



One on the far left is the problem, came up to check and only half the board was lit but if leave it to cool down they come back on but go off again after about 10mins
tried looking for replacement online but nothing comes up matching what is on the driver.

Driver box on far left INPUT 80-130v 695mA
box on the right has INPUT 45-65 695mA
Any advice be great

http://www.prakasa.co.uk/

They don't have any replacement drivers to sell you?

No emailed them no reply, but im thinking surely there must be something out there that would be able to replace the dodgy driver, just working out the spec to get the right one thats why i was hoping someone on here would be clued up on that
thanks for reply

IDK if they sell just one driver, but you may get lucky or they may know who else to ask. Have you tried Alibaba? Good Luck
http://www.phihongusa.com/html/custom_led_drivers.html.

Any driver with correct output current and a max voltage that is higher than what you are using will work, post a closeup of the label or the specs to know the amperage and we can help you find a suitable driver. Main concern will be that it fits neatly in the case, or you could go crazy and take the opportunity to remote (move outside of the panel) one or both of your drivers. This will bring temps down of course.

edit: didnt see your text at bottom with some of the details, but what we need is the OUTPUT voltage and current. also, looks like the fans are running off a buck driver, is that correct? like, that box that looks like a mini driver, its connected to one of the big drivers?

Only info on the boxes it what i put at the top, probably the reason why im struggling for anything to come up in google

the pic at the top,
bottom of that line the lights stay on which are being powered by the smaller driver - INPUT 45-65 695mA (powering 20 leds )
top of the line which is being powered by the faulty driver which cuts off after being on for about 10mins - INPUT 80-130v 695mA (powering 40 leds)
and yes the box in the middle just powers the fans and is not connected to anything else
all the leds are 3w and when the box is working total draw power is 123watts
so i was thinking can i work out what the output would need to be ? also the input part might not be related to the numbers just displaying which side the input wires are ?

thank you for help so far much appreciated
i will post more detailed pics of the drivers soon

Something tells me the input is really the output and a Chinese interpreter got it wrong. The input should be 110-220 Volts AC, otherwise it would need some kind of converter in there, right ? The question to me is, is the driver at fault or can it be one of those Zeners or even one of the LEDs messing up the circuit? Personally I wouldn't swap out the driver till I tested the circuits. Got a multimeter? If it blacks out and the driver is supplying power it's probably the circuit.

Reason i think it has to do with this driver is because if leave the led for a couple of hours all the lights come back on but after about 10mins or so all but 20 leds go out, if it was the curcuit i would think they wouldnt come back on at all, and i dont think the info is wrong on them.

Even though there looks nothing wrong with this driver im thinking there has to be there has to be.
got a multimeter going to do some googling on multimetering the board see if can find anything wrong with it.

thank you for the input

looks like a cheap part there must be something out there to replace it

That is better info on the problem. I have seen that issue many times and it isn't a driver issue. Initially you said 1/2 the LEDs wouldn't light up, which made me think there were 2 drivers for the LEDs. After you opened it up it appears to be only 1 driver for the LEDs, so with the problem you have and only having 1 driver, that tells me it is a circuit problem.

I am thinking the issue is a weak solder connection in the circuit, and once the light heats up enough it breaks the circuit, and then when it cools down it comes back on. With a multimeter you should be able to locate and fix the issue with a soldering iron and a little flux. Good part, you shouldn't need to have to order a new power supply and can fix it in a few minutes yourself, bad part is it takes a little more work than swapping a driver. I would run the light until it turns off and then quickly run a continuity test between LEDs to see where the break is. That seems like the most simple way to locate the problem if it is an open circuit issue.

That last post it close up of the box on the far left, the box on the far right is exactly the same just different spec and smaller. is this not a driver also ?

It looks like 1 driver is dedicated to the LEDs and a smaller driver is used for the DC fans from the looks of it. Yes, they are both 'drivers', but if you had 2 drivers for the LEDs they would be identical.

The input on the smaller driver is what seems odd... not sure how that one is even working with the input voltage listed unless the tiny box is stepping down the voltage. Odd way of doing it if that is how it is running.

They wouldn't be identical if they where powering different amount of lights each ?, from what i worked out the problem one it powering 40leds the other is powering 20leds
from the 3 boxes, middle is for the fans and the boxes on the sides are for the leds. they all have there own power cable from plug source and are all separately connected

is there anyway of identifying a replacement for the one on the left from the info i have posted ? im sure there are 2 drivers powering the leds

ill try and take a better photo of the wires where they are going

You are right, that makes a difference. Very odd way of going about it, most of the time with LEDs when you use multiple drivers you try and make things equal.

Still, the label seems wrong. It shouldn't even fire up with an input voltage that low. This is one of the reasons I hate china crap, they skimp so much to save a penny.

So with 40 LEDs on one driver, and 20 on the other, the 2 drivers make sense, but the labeling doesn't for the input voltage. That seems correct for the output voltage while the 695ma current is correct. Input voltage should be whatever your house power is unless you have an external power supply for the light that coverts AC to DC already (very possible, and it would make more sense in your situation if you do have one). So if it is the smaller driver, look for a driver that has those ratings. First we need to know if it is an 'all in one' driver that includes the power supply or do you have an external power supply to power the light? You don't want the current to exceed 700mA, voltage can be higher than the label but not lower. Most drivers have a 'minimum and maximum' amount of LEDs you can use, which is why there is a range on the voltage. If you have to few or to many LEDs they won't light up.

I just re-read your problem again. You said "if leave the led for a couple of hours all the lights come back on but after about 10mins or so all but 20 leds go out".

So 20 LEDs stay on? Then that would be the bigger driver. What I am not understanding is how it all goes together. I know I can help you get this working, just need a clearer picture.

1. How does the light plug into the wall? How many power cords?
2. How does the power wire enter the light? Does it go through a box first or just straight into the light? If there is a box, that is the power supply. A power supply could also be inside the light.
3. If the wire goes inside the light and no external box, is there a circuit board on the inside of the plugs that the drivers plug into? If so, that is the power supply. If not, then those 2 black boxes are both power supplies and drivers, like a meanwell driver is. If the label on the black boxes are correct, then that would mean there is a separate power supply that feeds the correct voltage to them.

Once I know those answers we can start to pinpoint the exact problem with a multimeter. I still think it sounds like a cold solder joint issue so I would first try my earlier suggestion and doing a continuity check right after the LEDs go out.

You already said the solution mate
Rolled one up had a few tokes, got multimeter out and went to check every led and led number 33 came up dodgy, plus turns out its on the side of 40leds that go out
So put some wire across, checked it with multimeter so there was a connection. there was so plugged it in and it worked straight away and its still on

Led all along, thanks for the feedback

So it wasn't the driver? Imagine that . LOL

LoL i was sure it was the driver, thought we was past the days of one light goes they all do
Thanks everybody for your help

while u were on it, have u checked the actual voltage output of the driver?

40x 3W led with their Vf 2,5-3,7 @ 130V max output +90W sounds to me close to thermal (melt)shutdown

Good call CaliJoe +rep

@lax123 Wouldn't surprise me if was on the brink knowing Chinese makers
still working today lol