prepared and transplanted

medidedicated · Jun 19, 2022

My “about” me has most of my setup info. If I had time to think before transplanting I would of cut the roots on the bottom, but wouldn’t of bothered if I tranplanted on time. Last time I posted I asked if I had rootbound but this time I think I am close to the line.

That was 5 gallons of buffered dry brick coco that was rinsed before buffering. I did not pre-water with nutrient solution but the buffer solution was 1.5EC which is close to the nutrient solution, and iI quick rinsed after buffering; so the EC should be just where it was in prior pots.

I bought 1, 2 and 4 gallons (and 5gal) from the same company, so that I can upsize in the same perportions, but these half gallons weren’t so easy to transfer. The half gallons aren’t the same kind and company or line of pots, but I got by stuffing the edges to make sure they’re full.

Will post how they do tomorrow and moving on. Was going to top the rest of them i. the next couple days. Can you do the BOG method in coco? I worry about roots drying out.

Will relocate 3 or 4 of them to the veg room for the meanwhile. These were 1 gallon pots to be transplanted to 2 gallon soon, to finish in 4 gallon pots.

Next time should be easier. Any tips, comments and advice is welcomed and appreciated.

OldMedUser · Jun 20, 2022

Rootbound for sure. You should have cut the bottom off the rootballs and shaved down the sides before repotting. Just takes an extra minute per plant and plant growth will be a lot better tho it still should be good. When you crop those let the rootball dry out and tear it apart to see how the side roots don't spread out sideways and the old rootball isn't really connected to the rest of the soil except from the bottom 3rd down. When you prune like this you get fine root hairs from top to bottom and none of those thick stringy ones anywhere. I did a 5gal one with 3 repots and pruned each time. You could literally play a game of soccer with the rootball before it would break up. Just a fine web everywhere holding it together.

I tend to up-pot too many times and when I'm growing out some plants for flower I'm going straight from the 3" square pots I usually start them in right to their forever pot after a severe pruning and a good sprinkle of DynoMyco in the hole to get the roots off to a good start.

Your plants are looking great! How soon to you plan to flip them? I'd go straight to the 5gal then flip a week or two after myself or they will get huge and end up crowded.

:peace:

medidedicated · Jun 20, 2022

OldMedUser said:
Rootbound for sure. You should have cut the bottom off the rootballs and shaved down the sides before repotting. Just takes an extra minute per plant and plant growth will be a lot better tho it still should be good. When you crop those let the rootball dry out and tear it apart to see how the side roots don't spread out sideways and the old rootball isn't really connected to the rest of the soil except from the bottom 3rd down. When you prune like this you get fine root hairs from top to bottom and none of those thick stringy ones anywhere. I did a 5gal one with 3 repots and pruned each time. You could literally play a game of soccer with the rootball before it would break up. Just a fine web everywhere holding it together.

View attachment 5151856 View attachment 5151857

I tend to up-pot too many times and when I'm growing out some plants for flower I'm going straight from the 3" square pots I usually start them in right to their forever pot after a severe pruning and a good sprinkle of DynoMyco in the hole to get the roots off to a good start.

Your plants are looking great! How soon to you plan to flip them? I'd go straight to the 5gal then flip a week or two after myself or they will get huge and end up crowded.

Hello, yea I figured I should of but have been overthinking some things lately. Wanted to make sure they were all done yesterday. Wish I did cut the bottom now.

I have yet to get a 5x2 that I recently decided to go with for a flower room. 3 or 4 plants to be relocated to veg room, to move back when flower tent is here. Otherwise I wouldn’5t flower more than 2 in a 2x2 for fear of mold or other issues I saw with crammed space.

I read to veg for two months minimally but seen here I could flip 30 days in. so doing a bit of both by also adhering to the 70% space filled rule before flip.

medidedicated · Jun 20, 2022

Finished topping all of them. Some fan leaf snipping to let nodes through. Plant risers and draining saucers with runoff trays coming soon.

Until then, they are feed one by one. After feed, they’re put in 6” saucers for now.

Now it is looking more like a veg room lol. So these 5 are for practice anyway, until mothers are cloned and kick off the perpetuation. For that reason, I had 4 months open for a full cycle.

The 2x2 may end up not being used at all if the flower room is setup and likely will be. Then that 2x2 can be for tobacco since it is allowed, for personal use.

Transplanting again in a couple weeks. and then again after 2 more.

twentyeight.threefive · Jun 20, 2022

medidedicated said:
View attachment 5151992
View attachment 5151993
View attachment 5151994
Finished topping all of them. Some fan leaf snipping to let nodes through. Plant risers and draining saucers with runoff trays coming soon.

Until then, they are feed one by one. After feed, they’re put in 6” saucers for now.

Now it is looking more like a veg room lol. So these 5 are for practice anyway, until mothers are cloned and kick off the perpetuation. For that reason, I had 4 months open for a full cycle.

The 2x2 may end up not being used at all if the flower room is setup and likely will be. Then that 2x2 can be for tobacco since it is allowed, for personal use.

Transplanting again in a couple weeks. and then again after 2 more.

They look like they are already too big for those new pots. Next transplant I’d put in their final containers either the 4 or 5 gallon pots.

medidedicated · Jun 20, 2022

twentyeight.threefive said:
They look like they are already too big for those new pots. Next transplant I’d put in their final containers either the 4 or 5 gallon pots.

My calendar was marked around that day to put into 2 gallons. But then I was like, well, one week for seedling, two weeks in a one gallon and this Wednesday would be the 2 gallon mark according to BOG transplanting every two weeks.

So I am really only about two weeks behind, and planted straight into half gallon pots from the beginning.

Being 5 weeks old, yes I agree. but the rootzone has 2 weeks to fill out the other half gallon space in the one gallon pots. Then into two gallons. Cutting roots would of been good but they still are fabric type pots so it will still somewhat grow inward. I am new to this though.

Can you follow BOG in coco? Or would this dry out in the elevated space that stacks on one another? I think not due to coco acting as a wick with daily feed.

This BOG tactic would give 3” extra of downward space. I am sure you know that already. Involves cutting roots but I punked out last second, spent too much time figuring out nutrients lately which couldn’t of been simpler, but learned critical things in that process. My capacity is coming back though lol.

Synchronicity · Jun 20, 2022

They may be rootbound but they look pretty good to me. I grow in roots organics soil though.

I also transplant 2 or 3 times before I put mine in 5 gallon bags. Those root pics look familiar to me. Every time I repot- it stimulates a growth spurt. It gives me opportunity to see how things look below the surface.

I think those larger, more yellow plants are wanting for more nitrogen and will green up with more feed..................
Or new soil with a repot

:bigjoint:

medidedicated · Jun 20, 2022

Synchronicity said:
They may be rootbound but they look pretty good to me. I grow in roots organics soil though.

I also transplant 2 or 3 times before I put mine in 5 gallon bags. Those root pics look familiar to me. Every time I repot- it stimulates a growth spurt. It gives me opportunity to see how things look below the surface.

I think those larger, more yellow plants are wanting for more nitrogen and will green up with more feed..................
Or new soil with a repot

Hello,

Thanks for your input, yes, I started out following dr mj coco nutrient schedule which ran into some issues which I came here for advice to resolve, which I think may of been.

Everything else aside from dr mj coco’s nutrient schedule chart was great to dig into and refer back to for growers starting out.

One problem with that schedule, is the low EC doses and high Cal/mg supplement (most of the ppm was calmag and tap) and a set of other supplements that most say aren’t needed. I was roasted here for that lol, but quickly received advice to follow the mfg feed chart with no calmag (was at 5ml/gal). Was using half tap water and diluting with calmg water.

This was a bunch of nonsense that caused yellow leaves that were snipped off and are where they are now, looking better. 100% distilled, I feed light, 6ml, 5.6ml and 4.2ml per gallon of micro/grow/bloom flora trio with some hydro gaurd for algae and they have been bursting. went from diluting with 1-2 gallons to just a half quart or less if the EC ended up too high from last batch (oral syringe is not percise).

Yes, so far in my expirience, transplanting usually makes bursts of growth afterwards. Agreed with the statement about seeing how things are going underneath with frequent transplant, doesn’t seem to hurt them at all.

twentyeight.threefive · Jun 20, 2022

medidedicated said:
My calendar was marked around that day to put into 2 gallons. But then I was like, well, one week for seedling, two weeks in a one gallon and this Wednesday would be the 2 gallon mark according to BOG transplanting every two weeks.

So I am really only about two weeks behind, and planted straight into half gallon pots from the beginning.

Being 5 weeks old, yes I agree. but the rootzone has 2 weeks to fill out the other half gallon space in the one gallon pots. Then into two gallons. Cutting roots would of been good but they still are fabric type pots so it will still somewhat grow inward. I am new to this though.

Can you follow BOG in coco? Or would this dry out in the elevated space that stacks on one another? I think not due to coco acting as a wick with daily feed.

This BOG tactic would give 3” extra of downward space. I am sure you know that already. Involves cutting roots but I punked out last second, spent too much time figuring out nutrients lately which couldn’t of been simpler, but learned critical things in that process. My capacity is coming back though lol.

I have no idea what BOG is. When I went from starter pots to 1 gallon pots I found it to be a waste of time and effort since they so quickly outgrew them and needed to be transplanted again.

medidedicated · Jun 20, 2022

twentyeight.threefive said:
I have no idea what BOG is. When I went from starter pots to 1 gallon pots I found it to be a waste of time and effort since they so quickly outgrew them and needed to be transplanted again.

Bushy Old Grower, well respected grower who stacks a little bit and doubles the pot size and frequently (3 times) and cuts the roots to stack it so the surface of the previous potting sits 2-3” higher than the new surface. The pots should upsize similarly (usually by buying it all from the same line) ultimatly being taller but only slightly wider. I have 1-2-4-5 gal pots that align with eachother.

So I haven’t read much into this, but liked the outlines of the process as it takes time to fill out a pot space of 5 gallons right from seedling or start of veg. I see many who do this preferably though.

I forget the details of why people do BOG tactics but can’t express enough how many, couldn’t express enough how good the tactic was to them. Explosive growth being a major one. You can see examples online, the roots seem to thrive with this method. The end product looked amazing too. Edit: of course I cannot find them anymore. It was a step by step guide with results of people following it with reasons why behind it. Until I do, I am just sticking with the described.

I kind of was just only following the pot sizes and timelines to give it just what it needs and give me what I need in terms of yield. 4 gal seems like plenty from what I have read.

From the sounds of it, and what I need for yield, just avoiding rootbound sounds like the goal and that I can’t go wrong with either tactic.

Synchronicity · Jun 20, 2022

words of caution here- I make my grows pretty primitive. I monitor nute levels with a common soil test kit. I also monitor PH that way and with a simple PH probe (meter). I have a moisture meter.

I dont do runoff tests except for PH.................and nitro, phosphorus and potassium. My tap water is hard so I figure the calmag is there.......... I use GH lucas formula that has been bastardized to my situation, meaning I just use the flora micro and flora bloom. PH runs from 6.8 to 7.0. In mid veg to bloom I use fish emulsion to add nitro during fast growth and then cut it off about the 2nd week of flower (when the growth spurt quits)..........I "flush" with tap water about 1 to 2 weeks before harvest if I got a clue as to when that will be..........
I cant say this is the way for all to go but it has worked for me under both HID and LEDs over the years.......
In roots organics soil- I use that cause it is easy to find at the local hardware store.

:cool:

medidedicated · Jun 20, 2022

Synchronicity said:
words of caution here- I make my grows pretty primitive. I monitor nute levels with a common soil test kit. I also monitor PH that way and with a simple PH probe (meter). I have a moisture meter.

I dont do runoff tests except for PH.................and nitro, phosphorus and potassium. My tap water is hard so I figure the calmag is there.......... I use GH lucas formula that has been bastardized to my situation, meaning I just use the flora micro and flora bloom. PH runs from 6.8 to 7.0. In mid veg to bloom I use fish emulsion to add nitro during fast growth and then cut it off about the 2nd week of flower (when the growth spurt quits)..........I "flush" with tap water about 1 to 2 weeks before harvest if I got a clue as to when that will be..........
I cant say this is the way for all to go but it has worked for me under both HID and LEDs over the years.......
In roots organics soil- I use that cause it is easy to find at the local hardware store.

The NPK test kit looks handy! Yea, I do coco/perlite which is different, I thought it would be easier since you are constantly providing solution daily. For a sec I thought it turned out to be harder until I fed properly. Or it seems so, so far…

twentyeight.threefive · Jun 20, 2022

medidedicated said:
Bushy Old Grower, well respected grower who stacks a little bit and doubles the pot size and frequently (3 times) and cuts the roots to stack it so the surface of the previous potting sits 2-3” higher than the new surface. The pots should upsize similarly (usually by buying it all from the same line) ultimatly being taller but only slightly wider. I have 1-2-4-5 gal pots that align with eachother.

So I haven’t read much into this, but liked the outlines of the process as it takes time to fill out a pot space of 5 gallons right from seedling or start of veg. I see many who do this preferably though.

I forget the details of why people do BOG tactics but can’t express enough how many, couldn’t express enough how good the tactic was to them. Explosive growth being a major one. You can see examples online, the roots seem to thrive with this method. The end product looked amazing too. Edit: of course I cannot find them anymore. It was a step by step guide with results of people following it with reasons why behind it. Until I do, I am just sticking with the described.

I kind of was just only following the pot sizes and timelines to give it just what it needs and give me what I need in terms of yield. 4 gal seems like plenty from what I have read.

From the sounds of it, and what I need for yield, just avoiding rootbound sounds like the goal and that I can’t go wrong with either tactic.

I see that as a lot of extra work for no reason, maybe that’s just me.

No issues here filling my containers with roots. Single transplant from starter pot to final container. Please excuse the salt buildup. 100% coco and only hand watered once daily. In flower they’d be bone day every morning.

OldMedUser · Jun 20, 2022

Those big plants are only looking yellow on the tops because they are growing rapidly and it takes some time for the new growth to 'green up' with exposure to the light. If they were low on N then lower fan leaves would begin to yellow as the plant relocated that mobile nutrient to the areas where it's needed most. The tops.

I find 4gal enough for regular indoor plants I don't plan to ScroG. I have 7 in that size pot almost ready to crop at 10 weeks today since the flip. My CBD girl is overdue so she's first then the Pink Kush followed by the Cherry Noir and likely leave the GG#4 for last. I hate trimming so just take off anything without sugar and drop the fresh buds in solvent for oil. Much quicker and less painful. I'll slo-dry and cure a few nice colas off each for a bit of smoke but all the rest is for med use.

Just popped out my first batch of CBD chocolates using the new mould I got for them. 192 - 4ml at approx 20mg each assuming the oil is 50% CBD.

medidedicated · Jun 20, 2022

twentyeight.threefive said:
I see that as a lot of extra work for no reason, maybe that’s just me.

No issues here filling my containers with roots. Single transplant from starter pot to final container. Please excuse the salt buildup. 100% coco and only hand watered once daily. In flower they’d be bone day every morning. View attachment 5152086

Thanks for your input!

Thanks for also including that it’s all coco. I don’t want to complicate things if I do not have to. I guess I could always see what yields in the smaller pots and use that to different canopy setups and save on coco and labor. Though this brick was so high quality, I believe them when they say it was rinsed and buffered but can always use a rinse after that process. I intended to put that labor in for cheap quality coco for 13$ a brick (15gal).

If I continue to see good growth with changes from given advice like I have, I would rather do that and build confidence than put more money or work into it.

With a 5x2 I could do half SOG 1gal, clones. Stuff like that. I can do what you said with 5gal when i decide touch on my skills of having one big pot - one plant, to yield the same. Scrog etc.

Synchronicity · Jun 20, 2022

@OldMedUser - I stand corrected! But I say the whole blessed plant can fade from lack of nitro. just to be Contrary to the usual thing.............
Faster growing plants need more nutes, no?
Maybe

medidedicated · Jun 20, 2022

OldMedUser said:
Those big plants are only looking yellow on the tops because they are growing rapidly and it takes some time for the new growth to 'green up' with exposure to the light. If they were low on N then lower fan leaves would begin to yellow as the plant relocated that mobile nutrient to the areas where it's needed most. The tops.

I find 4gal enough for regular indoor plants I don't plan to ScroG. I have 7 in that size pot almost ready to crop at 10 weeks today since the flip. My CBD girl is overdue so she's first then the Pink Kush followed by the Cherry Noir and likely leave the GG#4 for last. I hate trimming so just take off anything without sugar and drop the fresh buds in solvent for oil. Much quicker and less painful. I'll slo-dry and cure a few nice colas off each for a bit of smoke but all the rest is for med use.

Just popped out my first batch of CBD chocolates using the new mould I got for them. 192 - 4ml at approx 20mg each assuming the oil is 50% CBD.

View attachment 5152089

I have GG#4 auto on the way hahaha I am SO excited! Should of seen the look on my face when I realized what makes autos so great, and it was all at once lol I was siked for days. I have Quick One on the way too, short short life cycle. Low THC though. Great Joint smoke or edibles though for others.

I cannot feel edibles at all, ziltch. I need RSO to feel a tiny effect that only works once in a while. higher doses just give me headache and stomach issues. Never thought about posting a thread asking for what to try if you’re like me. It is believed some have such an efficient liver that they discard all the THC.

I will be checking on here for advice making it in general for friends to give for free. The harder things to make that is. Like gummies and etc.

If you are talking about BHO thats awesome, I could only dream of knowing how or having someone make it for me, I am a dab lover for sure.

medidedicated · Jun 20, 2022

Synchronicity said:
@OldMedUser - I stand corrected! But I say the whole blessed plant can fade from lack of nitro. just to be Contrary to the usual thing.............
Faster growing plants need more nutes, no?
Maybe

if you check older posts, the young plants (if thats what you meant) you are seeing a past issue that you are probably right on, they said nute lock out from adding so much calmg supplement. and only giving .2 EC of base nutrients, lol. I snipped off the super yellow leaves and left some remaining, I like to wait until 80% of the leaf is toast unless many more are present.

OldMedUser · Jun 20, 2022

Synchronicity said:
Faster growing plants need more nutes, no?

Not a lot at this point. I stopped pushing my plants so don't feed aggressively. I'd rather see some old fan leaves begin to fade to tell me when to feed more than burnt tips telling me to back off. Can often lead to toxic salts buildup that shows up in the middle of flower with leaves going all brown/yell and hard and crispy. Especially with low RH that we have here it's easy to fry plants at fairly low ppm. They drink a lot more water when it's dry and overload with nutes if there's too much.

I'm mostly using organics in ProMix HP and still managing to burn plants.

medidedicated · Jun 20, 2022

OldMedUser said:
Not a lot at this point. I stopped pushing my plants so don't feed aggressively. I'd rather see some old fan leaves begin to fade to tell me when to feed more than burnt tips telling me to back off. Can often lead to toxic salts buildup that shows up in the middle of flower with leaves going all brown/yell and hard and crispy. Especially with low RH that we have here it's easy to fry plants at fairly low ppm. They drink a lot more water when it's dry and overload with nutes if there's too much.

I'm mostly using organics in ProMix HP and still managing to burn plants.

What do you think of CO2 pucks? I have only flowered once and was outdoors so I am trying to adhere to the advice “it really shows in flower” and don’t want to over do it. I agree with waiting for pale signs and just stick to my mfg recommendations.

I ask because you can only really buy those in few places in bulk.

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