PRO MIX BX WITH MYCORRHIZAE

I use basic Promix ($14 -- 2.2 cu ft). And add my own "Mykos" and a little perlite. Much cheaper than the BX and adding the Mykos myself at transplant ensures root contact.

I also question how much 'myco' is actually added to the HP and BX. Kind of like dog food mfr. who have "added glucosamine" when the amount they add usually would not be enough to loosen the joints of a shrew. Mostly marketing??

bluerock said:

"It's pretty common knowledge that 6.5 is ideal for soil and 5.8 is ideal for hydro." I agree: Pro-mix BX isn't soil. It is a soil-less mix. Therefore, the hydro pH would be correct for it.

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Whatever works for you champ. Maybe you can't read but I treat it as STERILE soil. Therefore 6.5 is correct. BTW I've thought about your posts. You said you're adding organics to your pro mix. And you are watering with 7.0 water. I believe you said the organics raises the PH. Then you said you are watering with tap water that has a PH of 7. Maybe you don't get it but that sounds like you are getting to the same place I am but by a different method. I've posted I stopped the hardwood ash and increase my PH off my feeding to adjust for the lower than ideal PH. Which for those not following along means I'm back to using it straight out of the bale. Just like you. I'm obviously having good results. What bone are you trying to pick exactly? It sure seems like we are really close on opinion and results. Assuming you're plants look as good as you say they do.

bravedave said:

I use basic Promix ($14 -- 2.2 cu ft). And add my own "Mykos" and a little perlite. Much cheaper than the BX and adding the Mykos myself at transplant ensures root contact.

I also question how much 'myco' is actually added to the HP and BX. Kind of like dog food mfr. who have "added glucosamine" when the amount they add usually would not be enough to loosen the joints of a shrew. Mostly marketing??

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I use it solely for sterile media free of additives. I like the concept of mycorrhizae and I buy this type because of it. However,I have no way of actually knowing if it's worth it. Because in reality if handled properly it really should be unnecessary. But it's just the same with the lime they add. How much do they add? And I basically cut my soil in half with perlite so however much they add my pots only wind up with 1/2 that amount per pot.

GOLDBERG71 said:

I use it solely for sterile media free of additives. I like the concept of mycorrhizae and I buy this type because of it. However,I have no way of actually knowing if it's worth it. Because in reality if handled properly it really should be unnecessary. But it's just the same with the lime they add. How much do they add? And I basically cut my soil in half with perlite so however much they add my pots only wind up with 1/2 that amount per pot.

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Right...so adding your own myco at transplant time eliminates any problem with your soil cutting. This grow I did add a couple tablespoons mixed throughout with the same amount sprinkled directly on the root ball and transplant area. Its worth when properly enacted is irrefutable.

3 gal. pots btw

No bone to pick. Pro-mix BX is pretty foolproof. Any pH between 5.5-6.5 is going to work great with it. The only reason I amend it is because either I want to increase the water retention capacity, create an organic soil, or both. Various amendments also greatly affect the "wicking capability" of Pro-mix BX. Watering from the bottom, it takes over an hour for Pro-mix BX to absorb water to the top of the container. I have found that cutting it with up to 10% coco coir eliminates that issue. Adding worm castings increases the water retention capability but it then becomes "soil".

And you are right, the fact that it is effectively "sterile" is one of the greatest features. The bags are sealed, not vented in any way. No worries about bugs coming from the Pro-mix.

bluerock said:

No bone to pick. Pro-mix BX is pretty foolproof. Any pH between 5.5-6.5 is going to work great with it. The only reason I amend it is because either I want to increase the water retention capacity, create an organic soil, or both. Various amendments also greatly affect the "wicking capability" of Pro-mix BX. Watering from the bottom, it takes over an hour for Pro-mix BX to absorb water to the top of the container. I have found that cutting it with up to 10% coco coir eliminates that issue. Adding worm castings increases the water retention capability but it then becomes "soil".

And you are right, the fact that it is effectively "sterile" is one of the greatest features. The bags are sealed, not vented in any way. No worries about bugs coming from the Pro-mix.

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I use to do that watering from the bottom thing myself. No more. In the top and out the bottom with plenty of run off. I even bought a small shop vac to suck up the run off should it fill my saucers. I'm not a fan of the wicking. Run off prevents lockout.

lonzo212 said:

Pro mix bx...dyna pro nutes

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Now I'll raise you Neville haze @ week 15.

Some of those buds are bent sideways and a little wind blown from my fan. I've been fighting heat in that tent with my central air being down at the moment and won't be fixed until these plants are pulled. So I've had to cut the wattage in half the last few weeks

bluerock said:

"It's pretty common knowledge that 6.5 is ideal for soil and 5.8 is ideal for hydro." I agree: Pro-mix BX isn't soil. It is a soil-less mix. Therefore, the hydro pH would be correct for it.

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The reason I treat it like soil is because it's much more like soil imo. I use 5 gallon pots and water about every 3days. Which is similar to soil. Where as with hydo the plants are feed multiple times a day. I'm of the opinion that the goal isn't about seeing what the highest PPM your plants will survive in. But giving it only what it needs when it needs it. In other words the less is more philosophy.

GOLDBERG71 said:

The reason I treat it like soil is because it's much more like soil imo. I use 5 gallon pots and water about every 3days. Which is similar to soil. Where as with hydo the plants are feed multiple times a day. I'm of the opinion that the goal isn't about seeing what the highest PPM your plants will survive in. But giving it only what it needs when it needs it. In other words the less is more philosophy.

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Less is more, I would agree. Plant dependent, but the nute company recs tend to be over-agressive. Most notably, Hydrofarm radically modified their feeding instructions (to the upside) for MaxiBloom/Grow...but the product itself has not changed.

Whether hydro or soil, I typically water/feed in the "yellow" range of the GH drop-based test kit. That works well across the board (i.e. production and mothers) and eliminates the need to work up a bunch of special solutions.

Pro-mix BX does, IMO, have some pH buffering capability right out of the bag due to it's organic component. That is in contrast to, say, rockwool flock. The rockwool is much less tolerant of pH variation than Pro-Mix BX.

bluerock said:

Less is more, I would agree. Plant dependent, but the nute company recs tend to be over-agressive. Most notably, Hydrofarm radically modified their feeding instructions (to the upside) for MaxiBloom/Grow...but the product itself has not changed.

Whether hydro or soil, I typically water/feed in the "yellow" range of the GH drop-based test kit. That works well across the board (i.e. production and mothers) and eliminates the need to work up a bunch of special solutions.

Pro-mix BX does, IMO, have some pH buffering capability right out of the bag due to it's organic component. That is in contrast to, say, rockwool flock. The rockwool is much less tolerant of pH variation than Pro-Mix BX.

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Oh I've never meant to imply it didn't buffer the soil. It does for sure. But again I would say if it was hydro you wouldn't need buffers? Just the correct PH. I've never heard of the test you mentioned. But I believe buffing just prevents rapid changes in PH. Which in turn would make it harder to adjust. Especially after putting it in a pot.

bluerock said:

Less is more, I would agree. Plant dependent, but the nute company recs tend to be over-agressive. Most notably, Hydrofarm radically modified their feeding instructions (to the upside) for MaxiBloom/Grow...but the product itself has not changed.

Whether hydro or soil, I typically water/feed in the "yellow" range of the GH drop-based test kit. That works well across the board (i.e. production and mothers) and eliminates the need to work up a bunch of special solutions.

Pro-mix BX does, IMO, have some pH buffering capability right out of the bag due to it's organic component. That is in contrast to, say, rockwool flock. The rockwool is much less tolerant of pH variation than Pro-Mix BX.

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Yes I think they all jack the PPMs so we all use more. So they can profit. Fuck the crop in their minds.

GOLDBERG71 said:

Oh I've never meant to imply it didn't buffer the soil. It does for sure. But again I would say if it was hydro you wouldn't need buffers? Just the correct PH. I've never heard of the test you mentioned. But I believe buffing just prevents rapid changes in PH. Which in turn would make it harder to adjust. Especially after putting it in a pot.

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General Hydroponics makes a drop-based pH test kit that is highly accurate, easy to use, and has a shelf life which I have yet to discover the limit to. I tried two digital pH meters and frequently had to check them against the simple GH method (and calibrated liquid solutions). The digitals turned out to be such a PITA that I threw them in the garbage. In contrast, I've never had any real problems with digital PPM meters...although the cheap ones don't last as long as the mid-tier models like BlueLab.

As to buffering capabilities, I am not the soil expert that I would like to be. However, it has always been my understanding - from books read years ago - that grow media with organic components has a built-in "buffering" capability. Which means that if the pH is off a bit, that does not necessarily translate into nutrient uptake issues. Since rockwook is entirely inorganic, it is not particularly tolerant to pH errors and nutrient deficiencies can develop with rapidity.

bluerock said:

General Hydroponics makes a drop-based pH test kit that is highly accurate, easy to use, and has a shelf life which I have yet to discover the limit to. I tried two digital pH meters and frequently had to check them against the simple GH method (and calibrated liquid solutions). The digitals turned out to be such a PITA that I threw them in the garbage. In contrast, I've never had any real problems with digital PPM meters...although the cheap ones don't last as long as the mid-tier models like BlueLab.

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That's interesting. It almost sounds like something I used on a fish tank years ago. I guess if I could keep fish alive with it plants should be no different. I wouldn't trust my eyes. lol. When is orange yellow? When I started I knew I was in for the long haul. So after reading many horror reports on the pens and cheap units I chose to go all in on PH. So I bought the blue lab combo meter. I do have to calibrate monthly. But other than that it's easy and accurate. I will say this the warranty is solid. After 2 years my meters display was acting up. If I had to buy a new one Id remember exactly what it did. But when I brought it back to the dealer. He took the old one and gave me a new one no questions asked. It's a 5 year warranty. It works so well when I got on my quest to dive into the pro mix PH I bought the soil PH test also.

bluerock said:

As to buffering capabilities, I am not the soil expert that I would like to be. However, it has always been my understanding - from books read years ago - that grow media with organic components has a built-in "buffering" capability. Which means that if the pH is off a bit, that does not necessarily translate into nutrient uptake issues. Since rockwook is entirely inorganic, it is not particularly tolerant to pH errors and nutrient deficiencies can develop with rapidity.

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Oh yeah rock wool /ebb and flow buckets ect all need constant PH monitoring from what I've read. I've thought many times of going with the flow n gro but I like to rotate my plants not only individually but also through the room. Those pots make that impossible. I'm also wall to wall with plants with just enough room to work at one end. I need to use coated wire and stakes for support so I can get to the back to examine and feed. If I went hydro I'd have to come up with some sort of net for support. I don't think I'd be able to handle not getting a good close up of the plants furthest to the back.

GOLDBERG71 said:

That's interesting. It almost sounds like something I used on a fish tank years ago. I guess if I could keep fish alive with it plants should be no different. I wouldn't trust my eyes. lol. When is orange yellow? When I started I knew I was in for the long haul. So after reading many horror reports on the pens and cheap units I chose to go all in on PH. So I bought the blue lab combo meter. I do have to calibrate monthly. But other than that it's easy and accurate. I will say this the warranty is solid. After 2 years my meters display was acting up. If I had to buy a new one Id remember exactly what it did. But when I brought it back to the dealer. He took the old one and gave me a new one no questions asked. It's a 5 year warranty. It works so well when I got on my quest to dive into the pro mix PH I bought the soil PH test also.

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Well, I imagine if anybody had any colorblindness at all, that would be a problem. I also always check the color against a "white" light. What you describe is definitely an issue when trying to check the color against HPS lighting. After using the digital pH meter for about a week in rockwool, I noticed plant problems. The meter was screwy, so I bought another one thinking it was defective. Nope, same problems. I also am an off and on grower, so the idea of keeping the meter tip properly wetted during the "off" times was not appealing. Drop-based testing is a foolproof way to monitor pH as long as you can see color properly.

bluerock said:

Well, I imagine if anybody had any colorblindness at all, that would be a problem. I also always check the color against a "white" light. What you describe is definitely an issue when trying to check the color against HPS lighting. After using the digital pH meter for about a week in rockwool, I noticed plant problems. The meter was screwy, so I bought another one thinking it was defective. Nope, same problems. I also am an off and on grower, so the idea of keeping the meter tip properly wetted during the "off" times was not appealing. Drop-based testing is a foolproof way to monitor pH as long as you can see color properly.

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I hear you. I'm breaking my stuff down now for the first time in years. I've got spider mites (under control but can't wipe out). Plus I have to have the heating tech in. So it's just a good time to break everything down clean and sterilize as best I can. Once the last crop dries I'll also be able to bomb the whole house at the same time. I've been lucky until now. It's my first pest problem that wasn't fungas gnats. After seeing how hard it is to wipe out the mites. I'm going to be doing preventative maintenance from now on. Since I'm continually rotating in new plants so my areas are never empty all at once or for more than a few days. But I've learned my lesson.

GOLDBERG71 said:

Oh yeah rock wool /ebb and flow buckets ect all need constant PH monitoring from what I've read. I've thought many times of going with the flow n gro but I like to rotate my plants not only individually but also through the room. Those pots make that impossible. I'm also wall to wall with plants with just enough room to work at one end. I need to use coated wire and stakes for support so I can get to the back to examine and feed. If I went hydro I'd have to come up with some sort of net for support. I don't think I'd be able to handle not getting a good close up of the plants furthest to the back.

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Agreed, plant mobility is critical to maximizing production, fixing problems, and sometimes accessing them. I prefer rockwool on ebb/flow tables, but mainly for identical plants. Mixed strains do not work so well in that situation. Next grow will be amended Pro-mix BX in containers as it will both a production and pheno hunt run.

bluerock said:

Agreed, plant mobility is critical to maximizing production, fixing problems, and sometimes accessing them. I prefer rockwool on ebb/flow tables, but mainly for identical plants. Mixed strains do not work so well in that situation. Next grow will be amended Pro-mix BX in containers as it will both a production and pheno hunt run.

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I've never really considered the tables. I've only got 7 feet to deal with height wise so I figure starting on the floor is my best option. That takes gravity out of the equation for tables. Which just makes it more complex. Not impossible but easy for me to rule out. Flo n gro buckets would be so similar to what I have now. I'd love to try it with CO2. But it's going to have to become legal before I try it. This way I could rent a building and design a set up with no size restrictions other than what I put on it. My basement height isn't changing and neither is my tent.

GOLDBERG71 said:

I've never really considered the tables. I've only got 7 feet to deal with height wise so I figure starting on the floor is my best option. That takes gravity out of the equation for tables. Which just makes it more complex. Not impossible but easy for me to rule out. Flo n gro buckets would be so similar to what I have now. I'd love to try it with CO2. But it's going to have to become legal before I try it. This way I could rent a building and design a set up with no size restrictions other than what I put on it. My basement height isn't changing and neither is my tent.

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Perhaps the single biggest advantage to the table setup is that you can go out of town for a week - or longer, depending on res size - and everything will be fine when you get back. That was an important consideration for me. The same is likely true for the ebb/flo buckets, but I prefer a smaller container size...and mobility.