Problems under coco+led

Actionbone

Well-Known Member
Hi guys, i just started in coco and im getting big def or blocks and i dont know whats going on... some help need it.

all start with old leaves guetting Little yellow i though it was mag def so i up the cal+mag from 0.4 to 0.6 and that seems dident help...


its 100% coco and100w led light 5000k

atami b'cuzz line a+b and coco booster
cal mag+ from grotek
i use osmotic wáter 0.05 ec then i ad cal mag to 0.4 ec and a+b and coco booster to get 0.8 ec at the beggining and 1.2 later.
ph from 5.5 to 5.9
temps 18c light off 23 lights on
humidity 60-65%

sorry for my bad inglish and thx in advice!!
 

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Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
Looks like feeding too light. Pale yellow more food. Soiless plants need to be fed with every watering. Low ppms of course for plants that small but every water with feed.
 

JohnySmith1

Well-Known Member
Hello mate
Sorry to hear you having problems with your grow. However at this stage it is fixable if actions are taken immediately. But before I can give an advice I need you to answer some questions.
1. strain type - autoflowering or photoperiod?
2. what is the pH and PPM of your tap water?
3. how close LED panel to plant?
4. Have you washed your coco properly before using?
5. What are the pH and PPM of runoff?
 

Actionbone

Well-Known Member
Hello mate
Sorry to hear you having problems with your grow. However at this stage it is fixable if actions are taken immediately. But before I can give an advice I need you to answer some questions.
1. strain type - autoflowering or photoperiod?
2. what is the pH and PPM of your tap water?
3. how close LED panel to plant?
4. Have you washed your coco properly before using?
5. What are the pH and PPM of runoff?
1-critical + photoperiod
2 ph around 7.0 and 0.05 us ec
3 12" - 30cm
4 no...
5 last wáter it was 5.9 ph 0.8 ec

Thx!
 

JohnySmith1

Well-Known Member
Is your tap water filtered with RO system? The reason why I asked is because unfiltered tap water is beneficial for plants (if PPM 150 or below).
Anyway, your problem is that you added booster at the beginning of vegetive stage, and all boosters are designed to boost PK level for flowering stage.
Basically, it's a typical PK toxicity!
To save your plants, you need to do next as soon as possible.
Flash your plants with RO water until the pH and PPM of runoff will be the same as water you put in.
Let them rest until the next morning than start feeding with cal mag at half the recommended dose and nothing else until plants recover. In coco you need to feed 3 times a day, following next routine - Day 1 food, day 2 water only, day 3 dry period and following this routine is very important.
When you see signs of recovery you can start giving coco a+b + cal mag, give cal mag every feeding day but always keep it at half the recommended dose. Start main coco nutrients with the quarter recommended dose and slowly increase the concentration as plant start to loose color, you can start giving booster on week 2 of 12/12 period.
Also, your LED panel is too close to the plant, you need to keep it at 2 feet at the beginning and slowly lower it down as plants grow. Young plants have almost no resistance to UV radiation!
 

JohnySmith1

Well-Known Member
Forgot to mention, with this LED you won't get much yield if any at all, and quality will be very poor. Invest in HID it's very affordable these days:)
 

Actionbone

Well-Known Member
Is your tap water filtered with RO system? The reason why I asked is because unfiltered tap water is beneficial for plants (if PPM 150 or below).
Anyway, your problem is that you added booster at the beginning of vegetive stage, and all boosters are designed to boost PK level for flowering stage.
Basically, it's a typical PK toxicity!
To save your plants, you need to do next as soon as possible.
Flash your plants with RO water until the pH and PPM of runoff will be the same as water you put in.
Let them rest until the next morning than start feeding with cal mag at half the recommended dose and nothing else until plants recover. In coco you need to feed 3 times a day, following next routine - Day 1 food, day 2 water only, day 3 dry period and following this routine is very important.
When you see signs of recovery you can start giving coco a+b + cal mag, give cal mag every feeding day but always keep it at half the recommended dose. Start main coco nutrients with the quarter recommended dose and slowly increase the concentration as plant start to loose color, you can start giving booster on week 2 of 12/12 period.
Also, your LED panel is too close to the plant, you need to keep it at 2 feet at the beginning and slowly lower it down as plants grow. Young plants have almost no resistance to UV radiation!
the booster i used is not a pk booster is macro+micro nutrients and can be used for the whole grow i think

http://atami.eu/product/coco-booster-universal/

yes i use RO water! and i have used this leds to grow before in soil with no problems! i have another light ready for flower stage with more watts! i think there is no UV with this leds.

also i already flush my plants! and it seems to look much better in just 12H
 

JohnySmith1

Well-Known Member
Oh ok sorry my bad, but in any case it is an intoxication as it can't be deficiency at this stage and at this e.c. concentration. Also, the pH of runoff is perfect thus it can't be lockout.
I am not saying LED is bad, I meant 100W is too little for flowering but if you have a more powerful light for flowering you will be fine)
 

Actionbone

Well-Known Member
Oh ok sorry my bad, but in any case it is an intoxication as it can't be deficiency at this stage and at this e.c. concentration. Also, the pH of runoff is perfect thus it can't be lockout.
I am not saying LED is bad, I meant 100W is too little for flowering but if you have a more powerful light for flowering you will be fine)
Definelly it was a intoxication! cause looks much better now after flush, my theory right now is i was getting a Little nitrogen def and I thought it was magnesium so i up the cal+mag and i ended bloking the plant for too much cal mag, i lowered the cal mag and put abit more of a+b and looks encouraging
 

outlier

Well-Known Member
I had very similar probs mate. Checkout this article: http://www.canna-uk.com/problem_solving_coco

Basically it says not to use calmag. The only way to fix RO water for coco is to add back 50% unfiltered water. They suggest to use nutes rather than a calmag supplement. I now buffer my water with calmag which is about the same starting ec as yours to 0.2-0.3 (100-150ppm for me). This is sorta inline with what Johnny said above by using 1/2 the recommended minimum dose for calmag. For me that is about 1ml per gal. I need to ph down a lot so I lose a few ppm's there.

It appears 200ppm is the approx standard value used for tap water (based on my research). Canna says to add 1/2 that back and you should not need calmag. So if you can buffer that first 0.2ec with your own "tap water" so-to-speak, you should be all good. I have found this works well with non-coco specific nutes like FloraDuo. It was suggested by a RIU member to add 40ppm of silica as well. Which I will try next grow. For now, the 100ppm calmag buffer seems to be working well and I'm in a similar boat as yours in regards to base water ec.

Good luck!
 

Actionbone

Well-Known Member
I had very similar probs mate. Checkout this article: http://www.canna-uk.com/problem_solving_coco

Basically it says not to use calmag. The only way to fix RO water for coco is to add back 50% unfiltered water. They suggest to use nutes rather than a calmag supplement. I now buffer my water with calmag which is about the same starting ec as yours to 0.2-0.3 (100-150ppm for me). This is sorta inline with what Johnny said above by using 1/2 the recommended minimum dose for calmag. For me that is about 1ml per gal. I need to ph down a lot so I lose a few ppm's there.

It appears 200ppm is the approx standard value used for tap water (based on my research). Canna says to add 1/2 that back and you should not need calmag. So if you can buffer that first 0.2ec with your own "tap water" so-to-speak, you should be all good. I have found this works well with non-coco specific nutes like FloraDuo. It was suggested by a RIU member to add 40ppm of silica as well. Which I will try next grow. For now, the 100ppm calmag buffer seems to be working well and I'm in a similar boat as yours in regards to base water ec.

Good luck!
very interesting article! im sure is is what im suffering, going to mix half RO wáter and half normal wáter, and lets see whats hapens!

really apreciate it! @outlier
 

Michael Huntherz

Well-Known Member
Forgot to mention, with this LED you won't get much yield if any at all, and quality will be very poor. Invest in HID it's very affordable these days:)
You're not being very genuine, or you're not very well informed. Not all LEDs are the same, my fellow human, and they will yield somewhere between "ok for a 'grow your own' hobbyist" and "HPS killer," depending on the unit. Let's not confuse the issue further than it has been already, please.
 

Actionbone

Well-Known Member
You're not being very genuine, or you're not very well informed. Not all LEDs are the same, my fellow human, and they will yield somewhere between "ok for a 'grow your own' hobbyist" and "HPS killer," depending on the unit. Let's not confuse the issue further than it has been already, please.
im using 100w of 5000k vero 18 in a 80x80 tent for grow and im going put 250w of cxb3590 3500k, last time i yield 190g with 200w in soil so i was expecting a Little more with 250w and coco this time,but so many troubles at the momento! hope i can correct it in time
 

JohnySmith1

Well-Known Member
guys, please don't murder me, I didn't say LED won't do the job. I was talking about particular one that actionbone using, to be more precise I meant 100 watt of LED is not enough for 6 plants to flower anything that worth the risk and all this work even if it is the best quality one. I have done a practical experiment, where I had two tents 60x60, in of them I put 300 watt equivalent LED (160-watt real power consumption), in the other 250 watt HID dual spectrum. I planted 4 automatic short plants of the identical genetics in each tent using 6-liters pots. Plants were growing almost at the same rate but when it came to the rapid flowering stage, it was an absolutely different story. Basically HID tent yielded 187g of dry flowers of a very impressive quality, very crystally and sticky buds , LED tent just below 50g of very poor quality grass, almost no crystals and lack of smell. In my opinion, each plant needs 200 real watt of LED to achieve its top potency level.
 

Michael Huntherz

Well-Known Member
guys, please don't murder me, I didn't say LED won't do the job. I was talking about particular one that actionbone using, to be more precise I meant 100 watt of LED is not enough for 6 plants to flower anything that worth the risk and all this work even if it is the best quality one. I have done a practical experiment, where I had two tents 60x60, in of them I put 300 watt equivalent LED (160-watt real power consumption), in the other 250 watt HID dual spectrum. I planted 4 automatic short plants of the identical genetics in each tent using 6-liters pots. Plants were growing almost at the same rate but when it came to the rapid flowering stage, it was an absolutely different story. Basically HID tent yielded 187g of dry flowers of a very impressive quality, very crystally and sticky buds , LED tent just below 50g of very poor quality grass, almost no crystals and lack of smell. In my opinion, each plant needs 200 real watt of LED to achieve its top potency level.
I totally missed a word when reading your post the first time, my bad!
 
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