Professor Marijuana Returns to answer your questions

She did use cal mag a while back, the local water is very soft and doesn't have a lot per the water company's website. We aren't sure of the reduction in the yellowing is due to that or not.

Next day or so we will try cal mag on the browning plant, but yeah...waiting for more opinions first. Don't wanna fuck it up worse....plus yellowing could well be cal mag, but I haven't heard that browning is a symptom of cal mag def

Hello professor, I want to germ a few seeds and then transplant them into my low pressure aero system. What medium would you suggest that I can remove from the roots before transplanting without damaging the roots? I saw in a pic you posted you are using square vinyl fence posts as I am. Are you doing aero, NFT, flood and drain, or what?

obijohn said:

She did use cal mag a while back, the local water is very soft and doesn't have a lot per the water company's website. We aren't sure of the reduction in the yellowing is due to that or not.

Next day or so we will try cal mag on the browning plant, but yeah...waiting for more opinions first. Don't wanna fuck it up worse....plus yellowing could well be cal mag, but I haven't heard that browning is a symptom of cal mag def

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I understand what your saying. I did not comment on spots because to me they do not look like spots from a mag def. Professor will probably ask what the softner source is. Public water source with soft water That's got to be somewhat of a blessing.
Good luck

Professor MJ, if you dont mind, i would like your opinion regarding clones. Specifically pH requirements for the water and the light schedule you prefer. The cloning media is Rapid rooters, going to soil after rooting is the plan. What pH range would you recommend during rooting? Also, have you found a certain lighting schedule (18/6, 20/4, 24/0) to be more productive as far as speed and root mass are concerned? Thank you very much for your opinions. The last information you gave me was spot-on!

imchucky666 said:

Sorry for your loss.
I'm a newbie, and look forward to meeting another wise man.

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cThank you, trying to get in as much time as possible here while time allows. I think the site has really improved, alas, we all have to grow as time goes by. I have been working on a site for the last five years that is going to be in beta very soon. I'll say now before the barrage comes, the time i have spent here has been strickly to help others lean to grow. I have never ssold a thing here and in fact gave free tickets to my seminar to all RIU members. My project will indeed have revenue sstreams on it, we all have to make a living, but most will be added during the third and last phase. We will start will a social site, forums, resources for the law, and content to help people doing research and such. Five years is a long time and i"m excited about it. Until then just going to keep answering questions. Also, briefly I hope to be employeeing people from within the cannabis community and the second line of our mission statement says"We will never forget that by giving we also receive." Ten percent of revenues come right off the top for cannabis related charities. We hope to do a lot of good and work with all our brothers and sisters at other fine ites like RIU

Sure the Prof's cloning 101. I am one of those who cuts about half of the leaf off when I clone. To clarify, we're talking about cutting part of what would bethe fingers, somewhere between the palm and the first knuckle. You want to take your clones from the bottom portion of the plant, down by the soil or hydroton is. That is the oldest part of the plant and therefor the most mature.

I have used every machine on the market but this is one of those places where I apply my KISS therory, KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID. Cloning machines can overheat, sprayers get clogged, and pumps get forgotten to plug back in. They cost hundreds of dollars and and might save me a day or two in time. I'd rather save the money, elliminate the potential problems, and just take clones two days earlier. I use rappid rooters, keep my tray on the floor where it'snce and cool. My clones are about two to three inches tall and whenever possible my bottom cut is made just below a node that I shave off at the stem. this allows for a bit more open flesh for roots to pop. Bottom cut is made at a 45 and then dipped into a cloning gel and then put the new cuttings in the rooters that have beensoaked in a water and Olivias solution. The bottom of the tray is filled just high enough so the rooters can wick up the liquid. I use the eight bulb rack of T-5's that are as close to the dome as they can be without melting the dome. Left on 24/7.

4 the love of ganja said:

I'm sorry for your loss,
I have been doing some thinking and my question is
I'm just curious I see a lot of people when they take a cutting they cut the leaves in half due to the fact that it cannot support the leaf nutrition wise and perspiration as it has no roots but yet again I see so many clones where they don't cut any leaves and I see no adverse affect. I know everybody has there own way of thinking whats best but seeing that you grow from clone and especially 120 of them im assuming that you are very down to your technique. I have taken plenty of succesful clones but I am constantly trying to improve what i do and i would like to know your take on this and the process your cutting undergoes during cloning.

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Professor Marijuana said:

No questions then? People are doing much better and I haven't had a single bad response so all is well. Let me know if I can help
View attachment 2251636Here is a corner of my grow, 120 plants under 2000w hps harvest in 43 days with this strain. All about the details.

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Status on this please Prof. MJ

As is often the case I get as many questions via PM as I do in the forums. I asked if I could share this one with everyone because it has some interesting questions. Please forgive the small amount of time I've had to be on RIU been very busy but as always I do my best. so her is the PM I received.

Could you offer a newb some advice???

So I'll just take em as I read through, several issues the first being "I might be starting with a friend" Rule number one when growing, "DON'T TELL A SOUL," rule number two, "WHEN YOU GET OUT OF JAIL SEE RULE NUMBER ONE." Partners are filled will problems, best friends become enemies, they tell their love interest who tells their friends, etc. etc. In every case I have worked as an expert witness without exceeption the defendant is there because of their mouth. If you have no choice make sure you have ground rules down. Same goes with contractors, much rather have a contractor who has no idea what it is they are workng on. With the exception of electrical grow rooms are not that hard. Building a box inside a box just takes a big box and turns it into a smaller box. You will want all the room you can get, specially height. I use the foam board that is white on one sde and silver on the other. It gives you the reflective quality you want and is easy and fast to work with. It comes in 4'x8' sheets and is strong enough to use as a self supporting walls. Use good venting tape, the silver stuff, not duct tape on all your seams and you will have a light tight as well as c02 tight room. Use caulking around the baseboard. You can even just cut a door through it. Easy up/down, strong, reflective, cheap, insulative. Great stuff. " splitting it in half, one side for veg and one for flowering" anyone who has ben around me knows how I feel about vegging, those who are new, VEGGING IS A WASTE OF TIME. I don't veg, period, zip, zero, notta.

These are my girls from two inch clones after about thirty days and harvested in 45 days total. There are 120 girls that will average 2 oz's or more in about 120 square feet under 4000 watts. 120 x 2 = 240 / 16 = 15 lbs x 8 harvest a year = 120 lbs. VEGGING IS A WASTE OF TIME. I get people argue with me all the time that I'm full of shit. I will let the pic speak for it's self. You look at the girls and assume they are 2/3 complete. you tell me what they will yield and apply the same formula I just did. Pic speaks for it's self. Those are not flood tables they are Areoflo2-60, two in that picture that are running independent of each other. Stagger your start times and you can harvest half every 3 weeks. Spreads out the work and it's fun having a big ass yield every few weeks. In my 44 years of growing I have yet to see numbers any better, I have it down to a science worked on over a decade and it is fairly easy and anyone can do it if you can follow directions. I'm going to make a point of having an equipment list and instructions on tis technique before my site launches so everyone at RIU has free access to it. Hopefully that will keep the critics who think I'm just here for money at bay. I must say that this go around has been much better at RIU and I have no problem recomending RIU from my site or even linking with them. Still about six weeks down the road.
OK, the lighting. The buds in my budbowl avatar were grown under the same light combo minus the light movers. However, those were grown back in the days when I wasted half the year vegging. Today I use 1000w hps except for mothers which are grown under 400w mh's. For you that are new to growing I cannot stress enough the importance of light. Many times I am called on as a consultant to go help people with their grows because they aren't happy with the yields they are getting. They pay me a ton of money to come in and help them and more times than not I can increase their yields by thirty percent or more from nothing more the light management. "YOU WILL INCREASE YOUR YIELDS FAR MORE FOM LIGHT MANAGEMENT THEN YOU EVER WILL BY SOMETHING THAT COMES IN A BOTTLE." Strain, size of rootball, and light are the three things that have a direct impact on the size of your yield. I adjust my lights DAILY. Having your lights an average of three inches closer to your plants is equal to a 25% increase in light. a 1000W light that is one foot from the plant is now 500w, at two feet it is 250W. Every inch you can reduce the distance from light to plant will pay off in yield. So how do you suppose I feel about light movers? about the same as vegging, money destined for the junk pile every grower has. LIGHT MOVERS ARE A LIE.They aren't giving you twice as much light for more plants they are taking half the light away from the plants you have. Imagine the wattage of light moving away from your plants. I hate them. And as is often the case something has come up. I'll try and get back today to finnish and answer some of the other questions. One Love.

Professor Marijuana said:

As is often the case I get as many questions via PM as I do in the forums. I asked if I could share this one with everyone because it has some interesting questions. Please forgive the small amount of time I've had to be on RIU been very busy but as always I do my best. so her is the PM I received.

Could you offer a newb some advice???

Hello Professor, my condolences on your loss and I'm glad to see your back on the horse with a new attitude/outlook. I was hoping you could offer me some advice on a grow I might be starting with a friend, we will have a whole two car garage for the grow, we have someone who is a contractor/electrician who is willing to invest 4-7K for the grow and do all the construction, setup ventilation etc, I was thinking of ways to set it up and thought of building a big box about 2/3 the size of the garage with 2x4's, sealing it with black/white polly plastic and then splitting it in half, one side for veg and one for flowering, we want a perpetual setup. For both rooms we would be using flood tables like you but in the flowering room we were thinking of using a solar revolution light mover (circular mover) with 4-5 hoods, each hood having a 600W HPS + 400W CMH, we have no experience with hydro so we decided on fabric pots with soil. Each hood would be air cooled of course, however what size hoods, ducting and inline fans should we use, I was thinking 6"??? We are looking to maximize efficiency, yield and quality so any advice on how two newb growers should set things up I'm all ears. Thanks for your time.​

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Status is they have already been enjoyed far and wide and as always they were excellent.

dkmf1 said:

Status on this please Prof. MJ

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ive got a question.. should i top or should i just grow one cola? want as much as possible out my girls since ive only got 4 1x berry bomb, 1x afghan kush 1x bubblelicious and 1x reserva privada og kush. apparently the og kush doesnt have the greatest yield only 10 - 15 grams per plant unless supercropped

xcellent example for supporting the style of growing I employee. I wish I had more info, growing medium, light, space, and specialy time invested. A plant of mine that was going to yield 15 grams grown old school way would be in the trash can. After 44 years growing I can't for the life of me understand why people are till growing the way we did thirty years ago. I'm assuming you have your plants in some sort of a bucket with soil under a single light shared with the other three

Probably veg for a couple months then flower for another two or three months. The average an ounce or two per plant which is what most growers get.
In this picture there are two 60 plant systems together. A single unit takes up 36 square feet which is probably pretty close to what your four Girls take up. In this system however, each of the girls will average two to three times what you're estimating your yield will be, except there are 60 of them. And they will take less then six weeks total. I don't get it, I just don't undestand why we still grow the old way. Hopefully somebody will fill me in on the advantages of growing any other way.

Anyway to answer your question, I don't top plants as a general rule when growing indoors, outdoors is a whole different thing. It has been my experience that even when you top for two colas it has very little impact on the wsize of the yield. I use the FIM tech indoors when raising mothers just to increase the number of cloning sites. I require a ton of clones fo topping makes sense. I bet most of you would find that if you didn't change anything at all except that wen you take your starting clone instead of vegging you put it straight into flower you will find your yield changes very little. The time it takes to grow your plant however will be cut in half or more and it will be much easier on you. Take that extra time and grow another crop and see what you yield in the same time you would have spent growing the old way. VEGGING IS A WASTE OF TIME.

Professor Marijuana said:

After 44 years growing I can't for the life of me understand why people are till growing the way we did thirty years ago.

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Because if somebody around here tries something new or goes with certain nute lines, the old school crusty pants growers, who shall remain nameless will ask "do you have 15 University studies supporting that?" or just plain "If it's not done my way, you are a stupid idiot" It's laughable. How are new, better things found without the explorer?

hello Mr Professor and thank you for starting this thread!

what are your recommendations for natural nutrients at flowering time for outdoor plants (like around the house home made/organic)?

dont do much outdoor growing anymore but i like Botanicare Natures blend soil/flower

roseypeach said:

hello Mr Professor and thank you for starting this thread!

what are your recommendations for natural nutrients at flowering time for outdoor plants (like around the house home made/organic)?

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hello mr prof im a new member here growing for 4 years and want to say sorry for your loss she looked like a remarkable woman. i will follow you on the other site so i can keep educating myself . i read that no need for veg, is that true from seed also or just clones?

Mr P, I didn't realize your wife had passed. Please accept my sincere condolences, losing a spouse is probably the hardest thing one can endure. She was a very lovely lady. God bless.

Well Quasar, Perhaps you should sponser a indoor grow seminar and have the Professor come teach the finer points of indoor growing. If you are aware tht most indoor growers yield 1 1/2 to 2 ounces per plant indoors than take a glance at my avatar. Those buds were grown in a 4 foot by 4 foot room. So you'd like a quarter pound? let me break a bud in half Bud stories are much like fish stories, and of course ego comes into play as we all want our work to look good. In my 44 years of growing, indoor/outdoor/soil/hydro you name it I often feel bad because they are my work but I have never seen bigger buds then those amazing buds. It wouldn't be fare to show the cola's(joke). Not only monster buds but they were so thick they would go though the windshield of an auto. FYI; sensi star,three foot tall plants. The following crop was a black hash and the buds were even bigger. Unfortunately one week before harvest the DEA raided me and took the crop. The head agent said that in his 25 year career they were biggest buds he'd ever seen(although wouldn't put it on paper. I did fight them and became first in US history to have grow equipment returned by the Federal Government.

unlucky said:

im in the uk mr p, im an hydro grower but turn my water off just after lights out/ ive done this now for just over 2years , is there any need to have the water running 247 ? hey i will sure have a good look at the new site. take care mr p and we cha t soon....hhhmmm hec we might even meet up one day as im in need of all the growing help i can get................... stay safe stay happy mr p x

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