Quantum Board Driver Question

jordanwh

Member
So I purchased the triple slate 2 with 3 qb288, and I understand HLG plays it way safe with maxing them out. I don’t know much about them, it was easy to wire up but I don’t know much about watts.

They recommend the HLG-320h-1750a so that’s what I bought. After using this thing, the heatsink is barely warm with a fan blowing over the top of the driver. If my math is correct I’m only running these at roughly 85 watts a board turned all the way up, so I’m wondering if it would be worth it to upgrade to the 2100a as it would run the boards at 102 watts each, giving me the 300+ I’m supposed to be getting. Thanks!
 

Moflow

Well-Known Member
Maybe get a MW 320h 48A and drive them in parallel? Probably get 370 wall watts
Gonna cost you whatever you do
 

jordanwh

Member
Maybe get a MW 320h 48A and drive them in parallel? Probably get 370 wall watts
Gonna cost you whatever you do
Not exactly trying to max them out, just a thought that occurred to me after I realized it really doesn’t get hot at 85 watts per board plus I’d like to use the driver for another qb build with smaller 132 boards. 102 watts per board with the 2100a correct?

I’ve seen a few people recommend to not drive 288’s over 90 watts but they can take way more than that, any idea why? Perhaps longevity.
 

Moflow

Well-Known Member
Not exactly trying to max them out, just a thought that occurred to me after I realized it really doesn’t get hot at 85 watts per board plus I’d like to use the driver for another qb build with smaller 132 boards. 102 watts per board with the 2100a correct?

I’ve seen a few people recommend to not drive 288’s over 90 watts but they can take way more than that, any idea why? Perhaps longevity.
I used to run one at ~135 watts or so on an hlg120h 54a, worked fantastic.
I've a couple I run now at ~ 32 watts apiece. They're both the v1 boards.
The Hlg550 has 4 x boards at about 130 watts per board.
Maybe the people sayn not to run them past 90 watts are just efficiency freaks or don't have robust enough heatsinks on them lol
Ledgardener done a test on a board were he really ramped up the power with no bad effects.

 

jordanwh

Member
I used to run one at ~135 watts or so on an hlg120h 54a, worked fantastic.
I've a couple I run now at ~ 32 watts apiece. They're both the v1 boards.
The Hlg550 has 4 x boards at about 130 watts per board.
Maybe the people sayn not to run them past 90 watts are just efficiency freaks or don't have robust enough heatsinks on them lol
Ledgardener done a test on a board were he really ramped up the power with no bad effects.

Yeah that video is what opened my eyes to how durable these boards really are. So really when matching drivers what exactly am I looking for? I have a simple understanding of roughly how it works but not grasping it entirely.
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
With constant current drivers the voltage adds up so the fv of the boards combined has to fall into the range the driver is rated at on the data sheet as well as wattage.

Example..
3 boards run at 2.1amps at 49vdc = 102.9w per board and 308.7w total with a total voltage of 147v

So a hlg320h-c2100b will provide both enough watts and enough voltage to run those.
as you can see on the data sheet.
https://www.meanwell-web.com/content/files/pdfs/productPdfs/MW/HLG-320H-C/HLG-320H-C-spec.pdf

With a constant voltage driver the voltage remains the same and the current is divided between the 3 boards.
So you have to know if the boards are running at X amount of current that the forward voltage doesn't go above the rated voltage of the driver. Because as the current is increased across a board the fv rises too.

So a hlg320-54a has enough bollocks to run 3 boards but the hlg320-48 which has slightly more current would push the wattage over what is available. I don't actually know what happens in that situation. Though I think you would just dim the current if the driver is A or AB or C using the little screw under the cap.


Constant current is slightly more dangerous from a safety point of view because its dealing with higher voltages.
 

Moflow

Well-Known Member
Here's an example.

https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/pages/qb288-board-guide

If you scroll down the page the recommended drivers are listed too.
Hlg says 54v drivers.
I think the 48V would work too but you'd need to double check, just send hlg an email.

1 x QB v range 42.72v - 49.86v 500mA - 2800mA

https://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=HLG-320H

The MW 320h 48A
Voltage adj range 43v - 52v the driver has a 3.35A - 6.7A.

3 x QB ÷ into the 6.7A on the driver gives you 2.3A - 2.4A per board.
118 - 120 watts per board.
If you go to the led section in indoor gardening there's a couple of extensive threads on QBs.

I'm more of a Chinese knock off board kinda guy....... lol
 

jordanwh

Member
Here's an example.

https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/pages/qb288-board-guide

If you scroll down the page the recommended drivers are listed too.
Hlg says 54v drivers.
I think the 48V would work too but you'd need to double check, just send hlg an email.

1 x QB v range 42.72v - 49.86v 500mA - 2800mA

https://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=HLG-320H

The MW 320h 48A
Voltage adj range 43v - 52v the driver has a 3.35A - 6.7A.

3 x QB ÷ into the 6.7A on the driver gives you 2.3A - 2.4A per board.
118 - 120 watts per board.
If you go to the led section in indoor gardening there's a couple of extensive threads on QBs.

I'm more of a Chinese knock off board kinda guy....... lol
I just can’t live with paying shipping costs otherwise I would be as well, they grow the same plants.
 

Moflow

Well-Known Member
1st one is for wiring in parallel constant voltage and constant current adjustable driver

2nd one is a constant current adjustable driver 1750mA for series wiring
 

Moflow

Well-Known Member
With constant current drivers the voltage adds up so the fv of the boards combined has to fall into the range the driver is rated at on the data sheet as well as wattage.

Example..
3 boards run at 2.1amps at 49vdc = 102.9w per board and 308.7w total with a total voltage of 147v

So a hlg320h-c2100b will provide both enough watts and enough voltage to run those.
as you can see on the data sheet.
https://www.meanwell-web.com/content/files/pdfs/productPdfs/MW/HLG-320H-C/HLG-320H-C-spec.pdf

With a constant voltage driver the voltage remains the same and the current is divided between the 3 boards.
So you have to know if the boards are running at X amount of current that the forward voltage doesn't go above the rated voltage of the driver. Because as the current is increased across a board the fv rises too.

So a hlg320-54a has enough bollocks to run 3 boards but the hlg320-48 which has slightly more current would push the wattage over what is available. I don't actually know what happens in that situation. Though I think you would just dim the current if the driver is A or AB or C using the little screw under the cap.


Constant current is slightly more dangerous from a safety point of view because its dealing with higher voltages.
I'm running 3 x 2ft f strps on a 54A, they reccomend 48A for them.
@diyled sez there's no problem although the 48 is the better fit.....
 

jordanwh

Member
1st one is for wiring in parallel constant voltage and constant current adjustable driver

2nd one is a constant current adjustable driver 1750mA for series wiring
So essentially they function the same, just wired differently?

I guess the big question really is what is the next best driver without maxing these things out, Obviously I don’t know a lot, I’m trying to learn but I’m expanding faster than I’m learning and am already needing to wire more lights and was hoping to use the driver I have for a set of 4 4000k qb132 for a vent tent while upgrading the triple board.
 
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