MISSPHOEBE
Well-Known Member
.... this gave me brain freeeeeeeeeeeze.....
donk!
LOL
Questions. Who is Using Molasses? and does it work?
- Thread starter MISSPHOEBE
- Start date
donk!
LOL
zack66
Well-Known Member
My medium and nutes are all organic and i've tried using it during all of flower and, the only thing I noticed was it turned my leaves yellow. No bigger buds or added weight. Cal-mag and some nutes already have some in it. Some folks swear by it I think it should be used for cookies.
KangarooBunny
Active Member
Yes! I've seen tons of people using Grandma's, which isn't blackstrap. It does something, but just by looking at the nutrition facts on the backs you can tell which would be more beneficial.
Grandma's Molasses v. Golden Barrel Blackstrap Molasses
Potassium- 110mg per tbsp v. 320mg per tsbp
Calcium- 2% v. 20%
Iron- 2% v. 25%
Nullis
Moderator
Just skimming over...
First of all garden lime IS NOT NEUTRAL. The pH of dolomite lime (or a 1% solution in water) is 9. It can be over-done, it is just more difficult to over-do than say hydrated lime. In general a tablespoon or two per gallon is added to potting mixes. The action of dolomitic\calcitic lime depends on particle size; micronized has very fine particle size and therefore faster acting whereas something like pulverized oyster shell (or chunks) will take longer and also last longer. Lime isn't really decomposed by soil organisms. It is primarily calcium carbonate (CaCo3 or CaMgCo3) and is only very slightly soluble in water. It essentially dissolves over-time as it neutralizes acidity when wet, releasing calcium (and\or magnesium), water and carbon dioxide. If the lime you use is very finely powdered\micronized then some of the calcium in it is indeed available to plants very shortly after you water.
Also, applying blackstrap molasses to certain potting soils can indeed increase results in terms of plant growth. It does contain enough potassium and some minerals to be considered significant; it is an excellent organic source of potassium. Consider the law of the minimum.
First of all garden lime IS NOT NEUTRAL. The pH of dolomite lime (or a 1% solution in water) is 9. It can be over-done, it is just more difficult to over-do than say hydrated lime. In general a tablespoon or two per gallon is added to potting mixes. The action of dolomitic\calcitic lime depends on particle size; micronized has very fine particle size and therefore faster acting whereas something like pulverized oyster shell (or chunks) will take longer and also last longer. Lime isn't really decomposed by soil organisms. It is primarily calcium carbonate (CaCo3 or CaMgCo3) and is only very slightly soluble in water. It essentially dissolves over-time as it neutralizes acidity when wet, releasing calcium (and\or magnesium), water and carbon dioxide. If the lime you use is very finely powdered\micronized then some of the calcium in it is indeed available to plants very shortly after you water.
Also, applying blackstrap molasses to certain potting soils can indeed increase results in terms of plant growth. It does contain enough potassium and some minerals to be considered significant; it is an excellent organic source of potassium. Consider the law of the minimum.
Check again, dolomite lime is ph 7.0
ThorGanjason
Well-Known Member
Do you know what exactly breaks down the calcium carbonate? Mine is powdered, are you sure it becomes readily available?
I wonder BC I added a small amount (tsp) per gallon of soil, but then added perlite as 60% of the total mix. I wasn't sure how long it would take for the calcium and magnesium to become available so I watered with calcium nitrate and Epsom salt, I have a textbook magnesium deficiency developing in my older veg plants
ThorGanjason
Well-Known Member
Its not only common for leaves to turn yellow during mid-laye flowering, but actually completely natural for it to do so. As the buds mature they start pulling nutrients from the leaves, including lots of nitrogen. Continuing to give it nitrogen and other nutes without plenty of flushing before harvest leads to harsh smoke.
That makes sense that the molasses would cause your leaves to turn yellow faster. What's probably happening, is that the molasses helped populate your bacteria, and the bacteria made your nutes more available.
Which I guess that would keep the leaves from yellowing, providing more nitrogen. But who knows, bacteria do all kinds of good things for soil, maybe the molasses did more for giving you a healthier harvest than you think. You would think that would give it a bigger yield/better quality tho.
MISSPHOEBE
Well-Known Member
..... that does make sense....
I'm defo gunna go get sum " BlackStrap Unsulphered " Molasses
I do luvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv the taste n smell n I expect Ganjees enjoy a Treat every now n then...
ThorGanjason
Well-Known Member
After the tea seems like a perfect time to give a feeding with molasses.
Nullis
Moderator
You check again, please. And don't just half-ass Google it and trust the first pot forum post that comes up (no offense). Material safety data sheet for dolomite. Second source. ... Third source. Fourth source. (These ones are for regular CaCO3 lime.)
Could also check this out: http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/bases-ph-d_402.html
Lime will raise pH, never lower it. A lot of people seem to think it does both, or that it is 'neutral' and this just isn't the case. I don't have time to thoroughly explain pH and how it works or anything like that right now, but it's good to have a general idea of the concept. It stands for potential Hydrogen and has to do with the concentration of hydrogen to hydronium ions in a solution. In general, the more H+ ions a solution has the more acidic it is. The thing to note right now is that the actual resulting pH of X material in solution is dependent on a couple things, including temperature and concentration of the solute.
If you mix some lime in water, the resulting pH of the water is going to depend on how much lime you put in the water (and initial pH of the water). Of course, dolomite and calcitic lime are only slightly soluble in water. Notice how the data sheets variously state pH or alkalinity, for example, as a 1% solution or a saturated solution, or a slurry. A saturated solution of lime has as much dissolved in it as possible under the circumstances, no more will dissolve and would instead appear as precipitate. A slurry will have precipitate or undissolved lime in it.
Therefore, the pH of a 1% solution is between 8-9; the pH of a saturated solution is 9.4 and the pH of a 20% slurry is 10. If you have liquid pH drops or litmus paper you could easily verify this with your own eyes.
Once you water, a small amount of the Ca (and potentially Mg) contained in the lime becomes dissolved in the water (dissociates) and is thus available for uptake by plants and organisms. All of the rest of the applied lime is within the soil mix as precipitate, and it reacts with acids in the soil, dissolving over time. The calcium and magnesium ions are positively charged (cations), so they are retained by the soils negatively-charged exchange sites until needed (cation exchange capacity is an important characteristic of soil).
I hate to hear of people adding a crap ton of perlite to their potting mix. IMO this can cause a variety of problems and make it more difficult for new growers. Perlite doesn't hold water or nutrients, it has virtually no CEC and thus no buffering capabilities as soil should. A more typical usage rate for lime (without a bunch of perlite) would be one or two heaping tablespoons per gallon.
BTW if what you are experiencing is a magnesium deficiency I would recommend applying the epsom salt as a foliar spray. Mix a teaspoon or two to a gallon of water and spray this on the foliage (shortly after lights on, raise lights in needed). You can do this daily or even 2x a day in veg and you should see an improvement sooner.
MISSPHOEBE
Well-Known Member
.... then I'm thinking perhaps its best to alternate:
One Feeding is Water/Fertilizer and the next is just Water/Molasses...
... so that way first the Ladies get Dinner an then they get Pudding!
an then their just happy all round...
One Feeding is Water/Fertilizer and the next is just Water/Molasses...
... so that way first the Ladies get Dinner an then they get Pudding!
an then their just happy all round...
MISSPHOEBE
Well-Known Member
I must say... I didn't actually notice any difference between the plants I gave it
to and the ones I didn't..... BUT it smells lovely and I will test it again in my 2014 grow!!!
to and the ones I didn't..... BUT it smells lovely and I will test it again in my 2014 grow!!!