R/O Water System

Hey everyone,


I recently bought a R/O system but want to make sure I am using it properly. It is waiting about 40-50 gallons for every one. The instructions are not much help as its instructions for a df system. It's an activeaqua gpd-100 2-stage system. It has a carbon filter & a membrane. No sediment filter. There 2 water lines coming out of th membrane. I'm assuming one is for waste water & one is for the filtered water?


Any help is much appriceated. Ill try to post some pictures, but I don't have Internet except for my phone & it doesnt let me half the time. Justt hate to be waisting good water down the drain :/

Yah the red colored tube is your waste water, the blue tube is your good water.
That's if you have colored tubes.
You want to run the proper water psi.

There is instruction on-line, google your system.

I thought I needed an ro filter. I really don't and it does waste a lot of water.
My tap is 70 ppm. All I need is a hydrologic smallboy to get any chlorine/chloramines.

mine is a 3 way and the yellow hose is waste water .blue tube good water .demo.

Extacie,
There is waste water but not that much. Is the RO production anywhere near what you expected? The red waste water hose should have a restrictor in it. It's a tiny little part...but crucial for operation. Disengage the red line to see if the restrictor is in place.
JD

there is a waste water valve on the yellow hose.the more waste water the purer the water,, and yes there can be a lot of waste water if that is yure preference,i adjust mine at the halfway mark and takes up to 15 minutes for 1 gal of pure bottle quality h20.mine is a 100 gpd system.

raiderman wrote: the more waste water the purer the water

Click to expand...

Raiderman,
I don't believe that is true. I suspect you are misusing your system. If you have a valve on your wastewater tubing...that's most likely a flush valve and should be in off position for RO production and inline (open) for flush mode. I actually added the flush valve to my system to add life to my membrane.

Could you please dig out your instructions and read up and post about that valve? I'm always open to being corrected.
JD

I disagree.ive had this one for 3 yrs and not my first.if yure ro system is runnin properly and do the math yu get on a gal avg=100gpd.good day.

take a drink of the yellow hose water and tell me,lol.blue hose water taste better than anything I ever had..yu may want to read yure instruction manual.

An RO system depends on backpressure to "force" water through the RO membrane. That backpressure is created by having a restrictor in the wastewater line. That restriction can be produced in two ways. One is the small restrictor placed in the diaphram end of wastewater line. The other way is if a "restrictor/flush" valve is installed.

With the "restrictor/flush" valve in restrictor position (for ro water production) the dissolved solids that are filtered out tend to accumulate on the upstream side of the RO membrane. So at the end of each "run", you open the "restrictor/flush" valve to allow increased flow to remove that waste and keep menbrane in fresh water during off time.

The "restrictor/flush" valve looks just like an on/off valve but it isn't. There's no reason to have an on/off valve in wastewater line since they all have an auto shutoff (that device on top with 4 lines going into it)

Raiderman,
You have some basic misunderstanding and I'm not interested in an argument with you. That you have had your unit and others for three years isn't any proof that you are doing it right. One thing you can do is to remove your wastewater line from RO membrabe canister. If there is no restrictor in place...then the restriction is in the "restrictor/flush" valve and you have been wasting water and limiting production these last three years. Please check it out. Takes about 5 minutes.

http://www.theaquariumsolution.com/flushing-flow-restrictor-ro-unit

Plus there are any number af youtube vids on flushing an RO system.
JD

my system is a not a lame system hooked up to my faucet indoors,its a outdoor system for best results..i am so happy for you...,newbs,lol.

raiderman said:

my system is a not a lame system hooked up to my faucet indoors,its a outdoor system for best results..i am so happy for you...,newbs,lol.

Click to expand...

And yet you still don't understand RO systems and are misusing your system.
Your only support for your position is wise ass comments, taste tests and some garbled post about PPMs. What a dick...
JD

heres somethin i picked up from a forum.......Quote(Yes, there are better RO systems out there. I noticed this while shopping online.

I'd check out the Costco website and look up reverse osmosis. The same company has two different types of RO.

1. One that uses 4 gallons for 1 gallon of drinking. $140
2. One that has no waste. $290



Read more: http://www.city-data.com/forum/house/331924-reverse-osmosis-waste-water-uses-anyone.html#ixzz2mGiOgEuK

Extacie said:

Hey everyone,


I recently bought a R/O system but want to make sure I am using it properly. It is waiting about 40-50 gallons for every one. The instructions are not much help as its instructions for a df system. It's an activeaqua gpd-100 2-stage system. It has a carbon filter & a membrane. No sediment filter. There 2 water lines coming out of th membrane. I'm assuming one is for waste water & one is for the filtered water?


Any help is much appriceated. Ill try to post some pictures, but I don't have Internet except for my phone & it doesnt let me half the time. Justt hate to be waisting good water down the drain :/

Click to expand...

No one can tell you when your membrane should be replaced; it's only a guess. Test to determine when to change a membrane. When the TDS creeps up to 30-50% of the TDS of the raw water, replace the membrane. Changing the sediment filters helps protect the life of your R/O membrane