REALSTYLES DOES IT AGAIN!!!!!!

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
How is that any cheaper then purchasing from Mouser USA (Free shipping for most orders over $200) Maybe if your getting one or two you come out ahead but you just paid $290 and could have had them much quicker from Mouser for $259.30.View attachment 3493218

EDIT: Sorry I just realized they are BO lol
I don't fuck with Mouser I would have paid more because Mouser would charge me 10% tax and they have sucky prices on Cree CXB. I just needed 4 when I do buy 10+ I use powergate and how many have you bought from mouser?
 

CanadianONE

Well-Known Member
I don't fuck with Mouser I would have paid more because Mouser would charge me 10% tax and they have sucky prices on Cree CXB. I just needed 4 when I do buy 10+ I use powergate and how many have you bought from mouser?
I have only purchased 3 CXB3070's and 1 HLG-120H-C1400. Being in Canada I didn't pay tax or shipping cause order was over $200. If you have to pay tax to mouser its understandable that it would have cost more then. I wasn't sure how the tax worked with purchasing through them in the USA. I do agree that Mouser's prices for CXB can suck also but with me being in Canada and our money not being worth much compared to USD then it was cheaper for me this way then with Kingbrite especially because I had to purchase MOQ of 5 from him. But this is my first build which I need to start and once I ramp things up and need bigger quantity then Kingbrite might be my better option or somewhere other then Mouser.
 

CanadianONE

Well-Known Member
I got my drivers from kingbrite $58.50 each.
That's roughly $77-$78 CAD for us Canadians before shipping which is $40 to Canada. Mouser is $77.30 + $20 CAD shipping. I know some people arent fans of Mouser but it seems to be a better option for me and any of my fellow Canucks. Orders over $200CAD ship free from Mouser also.
 

Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
Well I bought from kulon. They look pretty real to me lol. Anyone heard from jerry in the past few days? My order was supposed to ship Tuesday but I haven't been able to get in contact with him for tracking info.
 

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
Well I bought from kulon. They look pretty real to me lol. Anyone heard from jerry in the past few days? My order was supposed to ship Tuesday but I haven't been able to get in contact with him for tracking info.
Today is Saturday in China lol and we have an 15hr time difference

well at least California
 

DazedAndStoned

Well-Known Member
Mousers was about 10% more for myself than digikey for my CXA3590's, not sure if any of you guys use them as well, but a great option for us Canadians. Got my order from both Mousers and DigiKey next business day, within 24 hours with standard shipping. Quite impressed actually.
 

CanadianONE

Well-Known Member
Mousers was about 10% more for myself than digikey for my CXA3590's, not sure if any of you guys use them as well, but a great option for us Canadians. Got my order from both Mousers and DigiKey next business day, within 24 hours with standard shipping. Quite impressed actually.
CXB3590 CB 72V ($98.60 Mouser $97.94 Digikey) Digikey is great for shipping though $8.50 vs $$20 from Mouser. I personally wouldn't buy CXB3590's from either of the two though cause they can be had much cheaper from Kingbrite in this case cause both have ridiculous pricing on these. Mouser is normally cheaper for most items compared to digikey and is worth it if your spending $200+ cause you end up with free shipping the other thing I have noted is the fact that i didn't pay taxes on my $200+ mouser order where digikey always charges tax.
 

DazedAndStoned

Well-Known Member
CXB3590 CB 72V ($98.60 Mouser $97.94 Digikey) Digikey is great for shipping though $8.50 vs $$20 from Mouser. I personally wouldn't buy CXB3590's from either of the two though cause they can be had much cheaper from Kingbrite in this case cause both have ridiculous pricing on these. Mouser is normally cheaper for most items compared to digikey and is worth it if your spending $200+ cause you end up with free shipping the other thing I have noted is the fact that i didn't pay taxes on my $200+ mouser order where digikey always charges tax.

Cool, I'll keep that in mind. Only reason why I didn't go with KingBrite is because Jerry? said that he would mark the package as worth only a couple bucks. Been there and done that before with guys out of China, not comfortable doing that on a $300+ order, and import fees would have cost me a bunch. He does have much better prices than everyone else but I'd hate to lose a package and be out insurance coverage. Seems like no one is having issues with him though which is good.
 

CanadianONE

Well-Known Member
Cool, I'll keep that in mind. Only reason why I didn't go with KingBrite is because Jerry? said that he would mark the package as worth only a couple bucks. Been there and done that before with guys out of China, not comfortable doing that on a $300+ order, and import fees would have cost me a bunch. He does have much better prices than everyone else but I'd hate to lose a package and be out insurance coverage. Seems like no one is having issues with him though which is good.
Can't see there being a problem with high import fee's even at full value. But don't quote me on that. Depends on shipping method I guess. You can always do your own brokerage for the shipment so you don't end up paying crazy import fee's
 

heckler73

Well-Known Member
ATX PSUs...

Cost : ~$10 (if you have to pay for them)
Voltage : 12 V (+5V for TTL and Steady +5V for Arduino)
Current: More than you need to deal with at once, and plenty to power a Buck Booster :lol:



 

alesh

Well-Known Member
ATX PSUs...

Cost : ~$10 (if you have to pay for them)
Voltage : 12 V (+5V for TTL and Steady +5V for Arduino)
Current: More than you need to deal with at once, and plenty to power a Buck Booster :lol:



Make sure that there's some load on both +5V and +12V rails when using these (a heavy load resistor if need be). Otherwise they might not operate properly. And unless you use a very old ATX PSU you have to ground the Power On pin (PS_ON).
They're cheap and they're great for testing and stuff. Add a simple buck-boost regulator and you've got a variable voltage supply.

But honestly, to power LEDs with an (old) ATX supply and a boost driver? That takes away all the efficiency of LED.

Now that I've written this message I realize that we're pretty off-topic, aren't we?
 

heckler73

Well-Known Member
Make sure that there's some load on both +5V and +12V rails when using these (a heavy load resistor if need be).
A low ohm, ceramic resistor and a MOSFET do quite well to keep the Dragon's Tail tickled. It's all about switching times, as far as I can tell.

Otherwise they might not operate properly. And unless you use a very old ATX PSU you have to ground the Power On pin (PS_ON).
Switches to ground or a Digital channel on a MCU will suffice. (I'm using the former for my current experiments).

But honestly, to power LEDs with an (old) ATX supply and a boost driver? That takes away all the efficiency of LED.
How so? I can pummel LEDs with 3x their rated current on one channel (breadboard functional), only wishing I had more current to pump into the circuit.
The spectrum garnered from overdriven LEDs is TRUE. That is how they are tested, after all...
ONE RING TO BRING THEM ALL, AND IN THE DARKNESS BIND THEM


The Formula is spelled out right there:

3 Rings for the Elven Kings, under the sky
7 for the Dwarf Lords, in their halls of stone

9 for Mortal Men doomed to die,
1 for the Dark lord on his Dark Throne, in the land of Mordor, where the shadows lie.



Now that I've written this message I realize that we're pretty off-topic, aren't we?
THIS IS RIUuuuuuuu!!!!!!
 
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alesh

Well-Known Member
How so? I can pummel LEDs with 3x their rated current on one channel (breadboard functional), only wishing I had more current to pump into the circuit.
For testing it's great, my breadboards' best friend. Yeah I got few of them always near.
But the efficiency is terrible. I dare not to estimate. Not that it matters for my purposes.
 

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
Cool, I'll keep that in mind. Only reason why I didn't go with KingBrite is because Jerry? said that he would mark the package as worth only a couple bucks. Been there and done that before with guys out of China, not comfortable doing that on a $300+ order, and import fees would have cost me a bunch. He does have much better prices than everyone else but I'd hate to lose a package and be out insurance coverage. Seems like no one is having issues with him though which is good.
Bonjour
I ordered 4 x3590 from kb with china post option which is not the safest way but the cheapest.
Result. I am very happy, i got everything in 2 weeks in a cree package, very clean and well protected.
Plus you pay with paypal, so if anything happens, you get your money back.
Kingbrite is the best way to buy cxb and V29.
Have a great day ★
 

heckler73

Well-Known Member
For testing it's great, my breadboards' best friend. Yeah I got few of them always near.
But the efficiency is terrible. I dare not to estimate. Not that it matters for my purposes.
Ahhh, but under what conditions are you discussing efficiency? I can do some measurements with my current set-up to test the hypothesis.
Are you referring to the output of the PSU or the Intensity from the LED relative to Power input? Droop?


In the former case, it might be difficult to properly assess the effect of the LEDs, mainly because the TTL ccts are pulling their own current on the +5V rails. So measuring the true Power efficiency will require some reference and calibration.

In the latter case it is tricky because I don't have a decent photo-diode (except other LEDs...hmmmm) to properly test the intensity (although a photoresistor might work, too).


Regardless, I think the main reason I was bringing this up (while under the influence of some Hops-infused liquid..ahem) was due to a recent purchase I made of a 10W LED "kit" I picked up from one of my parts suppliers, but it comes with a Buck driver... That drove me a little nutty at first because he usually has 120VAC to xW DC drivers. But that's when it hit me...These Pt4115-based Bucks are perfect for driving a variety of LED chains all off of one +12V rail (c/o the ATX). However, if one orders them, be prepared to do some SMD alterations to get the proper current out of them (which I will be detailing later when it arrives).

https://people.xiph.org/~xiphmont/thinkpad/PT4115E.pdf
 

alesh

Well-Known Member
Ahhh, but under what conditions are you discussing efficiency? I can do some measurements with my current set-up to test the hypothesis.
Are you referring to the output of the PSU or the Intensity from the LED relative to Power input? Droop?


In the former case, it might be difficult to properly assess the effect of the LEDs, mainly because the TTL ccts are pulling their own current on the +5V rails. So measuring the true Power efficiency will require some reference and calibration.

In the latter case it is tricky because I don't have a decent photo-diode (except other LEDs...hmmmm) to properly test the intensity (although a photoresistor might work, too).


Regardless, I think the main reason I was bringing this up (while under the influence of some Hops-infused liquid..ahem) was due to a recent purchase I made of a 10W LED "kit" I picked up from one of my parts suppliers, but it comes with a Buck driver... That drove me a little nutty at first because he usually has 120VAC to xW DC drivers. But that's when it hit me...These Pt4115-based Bucks are perfect for driving a variety of LED chains all off of one +12V rail (c/o the ATX). However, if one orders them, be prepared to do some SMD alterations to get the proper current out of them (which I will be detailing later when it arrives).

https://people.xiph.org/~xiphmont/thinkpad/PT4115E.pdf
I meant efficiency of the PSU and the boost converter.
My ATX supply is quite old, not very efficient by itself. 80 Plus certification is only a wet dream for it. On top of that, it's load is usually only 10-30% and it has a 4.7 ohm dummy load on the +5V rail.
The boost converter isn't exactly the most efficient thing in the world too (80-90% depending on the load).

It's actually possible to achieve a nice efficiency with a PC supply but that wouldn't be this very cheap.
 
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