Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

AllDayToker

Well-Known Member
Well I'm on the fabric pot side.

In my own experience the plants roots use more of the space available in smart pots compared to plastic. I also noticed that getting rootbound is difficult and I have never seen a circle of roots at the bottom of my soil ball when it comes out.

Side by side I saw a bigger plant come out of a 5g smart pot then a 5g bucket, same veg time, strain, everything.
 

OGEvilgenius

Well-Known Member
Well I'm on the fabric pot side.

In my own experience the plants roots use more of the space available in smart pots compared to plastic. I also noticed that getting rootbound is difficult and I have never seen a circle of roots at the bottom of my soil ball when it comes out.

Side by side I saw a bigger plant come out of a 5g smart pot then a 5g bucket, same veg time, strain, everything.
They're superior you just have to water more and they can be messier. In short, I am lazy.
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
Home sweet home. Been too long. Miss the dirty talk. Starting up a quick cook with old stuff I had laying around. Using pro mix, pumice, and some kind of undecided humus. I have alfalfa, kelp, neem cake, dolo, potash, crab shell, and some Grokashi that I have yet to try. Anyone think I'm good enough on the macros...I can always top dress later.

PS Stow,
O-H

No VC ready yet. Have you grow bros ever heard or tried this http://ecoscraps.com
The only thing I'd suggest would be something like azomite or basalt, maybe some greensand.
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
I think consistency is key, and 100% total darkness for that 12 hours is far more important than extra darkness before harvest. Better for not hermy'ing.

But maybe you have other motives.. frost?
i would get colder at night the last few nights and use cooler water for colour enhancing.. 14*C Ro h2o on last day for example.

Me, I would sooner experiment with far red light to induce flowering faster or recover from emergency wake up (helps resume flowering faster instead of waiting the two hours for the hormones to switch back)

But that said I'm open to any good info on the subject. Just haven't been convinced yet..
I've always read that keeping your ladies in darkness for 24 hours, 36, 48, etc can boost trichome production and or force the plant to consume the rest of any nutrients left in her. I've found only anecdotal claims though, no scientific evidence.
I like the idea of dropping temps to bring out colors. I actually dropped my room to about 70 this morning and I'll keep them at like 65 during the night. I also really like your idea of watering with cold water. I'm going to do just that tonight.
I can't wait to harvest these gals tomorrow.

As for red lighting, I've actually been looking for a bulb / fixture / combo whatever. That throws out both uva, uvb, and the specific red spectrum (it's like 700 something or other, I forget the unit of measurement) that cannabis sees. I want to blast them with uv rays as well as those far reds for 15 / 20 minutes every day before lights off. My hopes is that it would make the flowering stage slightly shorter or at least just bulk up resin production from the uvs. I feel as if I'm on a wild goose chase for that sort of combination of lighting though lol. I need to just suck it up and shell out the obscene amount of cash for a good led system... One day, one day.
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
They're superior you just have to water more and they can be messier. In short, I am lazy.
They are a lot messier, I agree. I've been trying to come up with a way to make a drain tray for mine. My tent catches all of the water but I'd really rather avoid having to clean as much as I do after harvest.

Has anyone ever tried watering their notill fabric containers from the bottom? I feel as if that would provide a more even moisture retention if you got the amount of h2o down right.
 

Pattahabi

Well-Known Member
Thought some might find this interesting:

Neem Oil

Neem oil is pressed from the seeds of the neem tree. It is perhaps the most important of the commercially available products of neem. We source our neem oil from India where the trees grow in their native conditions. Our neem oil is manufactured in a patented Indian traditional method without heat, chemicals or petrochemicals which assures the highest quantity of the following active ingredients. Our oil has been analysed and contains:
Azadirachtin: 3410 ppm
Nimbin: 5272 ppm
Salanin: 7610 ppm

Neem oil is not used for cooking purposes but in Ayurvedic, Unani and folklore traditional medicine, it has been used to treat a wide range of afflictions. More recently neem oil is known for its ability to help with various skin conditions.
Neem oil can solidify at low temperatures. If this happens, immerse the container in warm water – warm, not hot! 85°F (30°) is plenty. Heat destroys the active ingredient, azadirachtin.
Neem oil does not mix with water. You have to add an emulsifier. (An emulsifier is a substance that allows oil and water to mix.)

P-
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
Thought some might find this interesting:

Neem Oil

Neem oil is pressed from the seeds of the neem tree. It is perhaps the most important of the commercially available products of neem. We source our neem oil from India where the trees grow in their native conditions. Our neem oil is manufactured in a patented Indian traditional method without heat, chemicals or petrochemicals which assures the highest quantity of the following active ingredients. Our oil has been analysed and contains:
Azadirachtin: 3410 ppm
Nimbin: 5272 ppm
Salanin: 7610 ppm

Neem oil is not used for cooking purposes but in Ayurvedic, Unani and folklore traditional medicine, it has been used to treat a wide range of afflictions. More recently neem oil is known for its ability to help with various skin conditions.
Neem oil can solidify at low temperatures. If this happens, immerse the container in warm water – warm, not hot! 85°F (30°) is plenty. Heat destroys the active ingredient, azadirachtin.
Neem oil does not mix with water. You have to add an emulsifier. (An emulsifier is a substance that allows oil and water to mix.)

P-
Huh. My son gets dry skin behind his knees (not sure if its eczema) so I should try using some neem oil. Any idea if regular neem oil for gardening would be OK or is there a food grade alternative that would be better suited as a topical ointment?
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
Cold just changes the fan leaves color. Your buds won't look any different.

LA Confidential:








Cheers,
Mo
I like the color changes for aesthetics. I take pictures of all my harvests for my "portfolio". I have a photographer friend that's going to start taking pictures for me with her new $1,000+ macro lens! She's drooling at the chance to shoot something like trichomes
 

SouthernSoil*

Well-Known Member
Brix levels are simply a measurement of dissolved solids in the sap/fluid of the plant. The more dissolved solids, the higher the brix reading. From what I've read you want to go pretty heavy on minerals to achieve these elevated numbers. Rock fines, kelp meal, azomite, etc. These minerals can be applied to the soil (and take quite some time to be processed and taken up by the plant) or can be applied via foliar. IMO you hear people talking about how the soil "gets better" as it ages.... this is simply a function of the mineral content not being bio-available in the first run of a no-till, and becoming more and more available in subsequent runs.
Interesting indeed bro, i wanted to add some rock dust to my ladies mix but didnt want to mess with the recipes, i did add rock dust to my veggie garden a while ago and i totally see where you coming from though, as it ages it gets better, sad one for me though because ill have to let this 1st generation mix go, next run ill prefer using pumice though & some of my own made EWC. Wow its amazing how much you learn though, especially with good people like this organic bunch over here ! thank you bro, respect.
 

Mohican

Well-Known Member
I wonder whether putting rock dust in a strong acid would make some of the minerals available sooner? Like soaking eggshell in vinegar to dissolve the calcium.
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
I wonder whether putting rock dust in a strong acid would make some of the minerals available sooner? Like soaking eggshell in vinegar to dissolve the calcium.
Why would you want to incorporate a strong acid into the mix?.........honest ???

reducing size(coffee grinder/etc.) would make it available faster ............still would be a slow uptake process I imagine
 

Mohican

Well-Known Member
Hahaha! Sorry - dilute the solution after you have dissolved the minerals for a week in a glass jar.

I used this method with vinegar and steel wool for my gardenias at the old house. Dried out the rusty steel wool clump and buried them in the soil. They loved the acid and iron. Was taught this trick by a Hawaiian gardener who used rusty items in his garden to keep a constant supply of iron going to the soil.

Cheers,
Mo
 

SouthernSoil*

Well-Known Member
I think the specific membrane like paper material they use is necessary for the proper moisture exchange. I'm not sure how Amazon works on a global scale, but I do know they sell them on there. Maybe I could give you a link?
In my experience, which I should note that I don't have high wattage hids / leds so my buds aren't dense by commercial standards, after the normal 7-14 days of drying and the initial cure of probably a week or so, you'd be safe. I do use a hygrometer in my jars so I go by rh% more than time. I usually aim for sub 68 percent before I drop the boveda packs in.
I see what you mean bro, that paper must be very specific, unfortunately it looks like amazon is the only place i can get it from and by the time it arrives it will be way too late for me bro, ill probably have to chop everything this coming friday, diesel sativa is at a nice size but unfortunately the grapey strain seems to have halted its bud growth, hairy small heads which smell like a dream but she is probably a 12 weeker and going down at 8. Learn a incredible amount with this first grow.
 

SouthernSoil*

Well-Known Member
Hahaha! Sorry - dilute the solution after you have dissolved the minerals for a week in a glass jar.

I used this method with vinegar and steel wool for my gardenias at the old house. Dried out the rusty steel wool clump and buried them in the soil. They loved the acid and iron. Was taught this trick by a Hawaiian gardener who used rusty items in his garden to keep a constant supply of iron going to the soil.

Cheers,
Mo
Mad ! thats one awesome way of recycling old steel ! Nice one Mo
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
I've always read that keeping your ladies in darkness for 24 hours, 36, 48, etc can boost trichome production and or force the plant to consume the rest of any nutrients left in her. I've found only anecdotal claims though, no scientific evidence.
I like the idea of dropping temps to bring out colors. I actually dropped my room to about 70 this morning and I'll keep them at like 65 during the night. I also really like your idea of watering with cold water. I'm going to do just that tonight.
I can't wait to harvest these gals tomorrow.

As for red lighting, I've actually been looking for a bulb / fixture / combo whatever. That throws out both uva, uvb, and the specific red spectrum (it's like 700 something or other, I forget the unit of measurement) that cannabis sees. I want to blast them with uv rays as well as those far reds for 15 / 20 minutes every day before lights off. My hopes is that it would make the flowering stage slightly shorter or at least just bulk up resin production from the uvs. I feel as if I'm on a wild goose chase for that sort of combination of lighting though lol. I need to just suck it up and shell out the obscene amount of cash for a good led system... One day, one day.
Gotta love the final watering..

I'm sure you will solve your lighting goal ..just a couple mins of far reds are supposed to (e rosenthal, oaksterdam textbook) shave up to 1.5-2 hours off each night by activating the flowering hormones faster.

Most the DIY led guys go with all whites after all their intense research (since blue and red are in the 4000k etc). But I say a far red light is sick. Ten watts for ten mins a night can signal things significantly faster apparently. I gotta try it too..
Bu first finish these 4 DIY panels..
 
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