So about what percentage would you estimate your aeration to be in the mix now?Malted barley powder. I did sort of remix the soil between #2 and #3 to add more pumice but that's it.
Yes but it is also being observed that when worms work and rework the soil over time, it tends to get that silty spent consistency. So having enough aeration and replenishing the microbial foodstock to keep them rebuilding that soil structure is what to my mind is the crux of no-tilling in containersI think the idea is that the worm aerated the soil over time. When you topdress add some aeration to the ewc.
Well it started as the very first BAS mix...I think it was just called "living soil". Anyways, it had a decent amount of rice hulls for aeration but I found that they were almost completely gone by the middle of the 2nd cycle. So basically I figured out what percentage of the 33% aeration was rice hulls and just added that back in pumice. So the overall percentage of aeration isn't different, it will just be consistent since the pumice won't break down over time. Does that make sense?So about what percentage would you estimate your aeration to be in the mix now?
Must be a good ratio, if you haven't had the urge to remix since!
Yes it does, thank you!Well it started as the very first BAS mix...I think it was just called "living soil". Anyways, it had a decent amount of rice hulls for aeration but I found that they were almost completely gone by the middle of the 2nd cycle. So basically I figured out what percentage of the 33% aeration was rice hulls and just added that back in pumice. So the overall percentage of aeration isn't different, it will just be consistent since the pumice won't break down over time. Does that make sense?
Dear Rrog, Dear Gentlefolks,There's some bit of consensus that 15 gallon fabric pot is a minimum for no-till. I'm sure some excellent stuff has been done in less, but again, I'm relating a small group's thoughts on this. I'm starting a friend off with a no-till grow. Two 15 gallon Geopots. We may introduce clover for a month in between grows, to replenish some N and to avoid mono-cropping. Plant diversity / companion planting is a good thing.
We're also starting seeds in 2 gallon Velcro Geopots (very very handy thing, that velcro) and transplant after sexing. This'll be a short veg of 3 weeks
Sounds like you should invest in a water softener (I use the potassium chloride option) and an RO water system.
I run my no-tils in 7 gal pots. I get about 6-7 runs even with amendments in between. My 7gal pots are only for flowering plants from 50-60 day cycles. So about a year then my yields start falling off. Again even with amendments and teas adding it new mycos (Mykes brand) beginning of every cycle.Dear Rrog, Dear Gentlefolks,
I just started reading this thread. I am on page 10/406 but by Jah I will read all posts(within the next decade). on my first run since 1994... Having a horticultural background I designed my own soil. I work like a mad man on my micro herd, brewing all sorts of teas, using SST, have my worm bin. I run two 2'x2' tents with custom made LED's. One for flowering and one that I turned into two levels for rooting, bonsai mothers and vegging.
Due to limited space and as I wish to have 4 plants flowering all the time I have to use 6gallon pots. Is not till out of the question with this small size pot? I like to take my girls out and look around. but if it is really necessary I guess I could just put one giant pot in the flowering tent but not my favorite setup.
Any suggestions/ idea?
6gallonly yours,
M
Dude you are a surgeon!Ah, dolomite. This might be the reason for your deficiency. It acts as a Ph buffer waaaaaaaaaaybefore it breaks down to make any magnesium available to the plant. Replace Dolly with a 50/50 mix of gypsum and crushed oyster shell. Another issue is how it is nailing your Ph really high. Dolomite lime removes the olant's capability to control Ph. Nutrient absorption changes per nute as Ph and temps change. I have a feeling your narrow Ph range coupled with lower temps are also affecting uptake. Epsom salts work very well for may deficiency, half tespoon per gallon water should do the trick every time. But in my OPINION top dressing worm castings is the best emergency treatment for most non bug issues.
Ok I know this is a post from 689 days ago but did you feed her alfalfa SST? my girls that get alfalfa SST go completely berserk. Apical dominance totally suppressed! little gals with huge afros! dense as a spaghetti dish!View attachment 3379524 View attachment 3379529 Here's a couple pictures of my Yunnan gal. I can't believe how bushy she is. She loves my soil too
Actually no! what DID you do here? Is kelp meal counteracting the dwarfication (gotta love this one) cause by Tricanatol? Well yes to be specific I know it is not making the plant smaller but just inhibiting apical dominance. It is so strong that when I tried to trim a bit the plant to shape it up, the growth was sooooo dense that I could not grab the branches. I did not click any pix of them. Now they are trained.I use Alfalfa meal along with Kelp Meal for stretch ( <-- see what I did there?), .
Add some EWC and some kelp meal.... maybe even a little organic pure coconut water = plants gone wild.Alfalfa is magic! It just is.