Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

GreenSanta

Well-Known Member
I use Velcro Geopots. Love them

I like the video @GreenSanta. I like how the soil humus buffers the Cl. Or you can add humus to the water and neutralize - same thing.

Cool this isn't a big ass ache
or simply have humus in your pots! I have to confess, I have been using straight tap water for a couple years, I have a hose running from the tap to the grow room, boom watering is a breeze compared to what it used to be!!!
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
Quick question guys. I just completed my first complete run of ROLS and I have to say it's freaking harsh.

How would one go about a flush? Do you guys have to flush?

Before I did this I always starved for the last 2 weeks approx. And always found it to taste and smoke better.

Thoughts?
What are you trying to flush out of your soil? All you'd be doing is leeching away plant available nutrients. Water may be a solvent but it's not going to magically pull the taste of chlorophyll or more water out of your cannabis. In organic permaculture based cultivation methods your plants have control over what they use in the soil (given there aren't vast quantities of plant available nutrients in the soil or being fed to the soil) and will go through senescence at the time of their life that it would in nature / harvest time.
 
Last edited:

DonBrennon

Well-Known Member
Stand your smart pot on an upside down pail and peel it downward from the soil.
It's the refilling that got on my tits, pushing soil into all them little dimples to avoid air pockets. I did love peeling the pots off and looking at the structure of the root system, they'd usually be pretty dry by this stage, but the soil(coco in my case) always held together solid
 
Last edited:

DonBrennon

Well-Known Member
I had a great automated feeding system set up with my coco in smart pots. I dialed the pump system in with a 15 minute segmental timer to supply 500ml of water/nutes to each of 16 x 5 gal smart pots over a 15 minute period, slow watering them through dripper rings, without water pissing out of all the holes. I'd just up the number of 15 min feedings as the plants grew and required more(I became very lazy in my growing, I prefer to be more hands on these days).

Wrong place to talk about that...........I know.......

But

I've thought about doing the same with the 8 x 20 gals I've got in my main room, but the soil doesn't dry out as consistently between the pots as they did with much smaller smarties, so some could become waterlogged while other dry out.

I've read about the blumats, but I'm unsure about them, I reckon I'd need around 3-4 per pot and I'd be worried about waterlogging. Plus I'm saving for my next investment, 2 big fuck off DIY cob fixtures to replace my 600 HID's, they're gonna be expensive, but the price of electricity here is extortionate. My last bill was £165 or $235 for the month, but the use of led will allow me to expand slightly as well as providing better efficiency
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
I had a great automated feeding system set up with my coco in smart pots. I dialed the pump system in with a 15 minute segmental timer to supply 500ml of water/nutes to each of 16 x 5 gal smart pots over a 15 minute period, slow watering them through dripper rings, without water pissing out of all the holes. I'd just up the number of 15 min feedings as the plants grew and required more(I became very lazy in my growing, I prefer to be more hands on these days).

Wrong place to talk about that...........I know.......

But

I've thought about doing the same with the 8 x 20 gals I've got in my main room, but the soil doesn't dry out as consistently between the pots as they did with much smaller smarties, so some could become waterlogged while other dry out.

I've read about the blumats, but I'm unsure about them, I reckon I'd need around 3-4 per pot and I'd be worried about waterlogging. Plus I'm saving for my next investment, 2 big fuck off DIY cob fixtures to replace my 600 HID's, they're gonna be expensive, but the price of electricity here is extortionate. My last bill was £165 or $235 for the month, but the use of led will allow me to expand slightly as well as providing better efficiency
From what I've seen those using high end cob lighting are absolutely loving the results. A lot of people report more terps or a wider terpenoid profile.
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
BIOCHAR!
http://biochar.pbworks.com/w/page/9748043/FrontPage
I pulled out most of the useful information from this wonderful website. There is information on how to make it listed on the site that I didn't include.


"1.02 What are the benefits of using biochar in the garden?
The following benefits occur with additions of biochar

  • Enhanced plant growth
  • Suppressed methane emission
  • Reduced nitrous oxide emission (estimate 50%) (see 5.10 below)
  • Reduced fertilizer requirement (estimate 10%)
  • Reduced leaching of nutrients
  • Stored carbon in a long term stable sink
  • Reduces soil acidity: raises soil pH (see 5.01 below)
  • Reduces aluminum toxicity
  • Increased soil aggregation due to increased fungal hyphae
  • Improved soil water handling characteristics
  • Increased soil levels of available Ca, Mg, P, and K
  • Increased soil microbial respiration
  • Increased soil microbial biomass
  • Stimulated symbiotic nitrogen fixation in legumes
  • Increased arbuscular mycorrhyzal fungi
  • Increased cation exchange capacity

1.03 How much biochar do I need to apply to achieve these benefits?
This is the subject of ongoing studies. The degree of benefit clearly increases with the application rate. If you are satisfied with a very rough estimate, we would venture that a target application rate of 5 kg/m2 (1 lb/ft2) would be sufficient to achieve these results in most gardens. However, there are substantial benefits related to soil biology at rates well below 1 kg/m2. This FAQ includes information on how to use small amounts of biochar in your garden to best advantage. [peer review requested on target application rate statement]



1.04 How long does it take for these benefits to become apparent? How long do they persist?
Some effects, such as lowering soil acidity, occur immediately. Other effects depend on soil biology and take time to develop. Increased cation exchange capacity will take several years to develop fully. The good news is that these effects are very persistent.

1.07 Do charcoal properties vary with source and temperature? What properties are important to the gardener?
Charcoal's chemical properties do vary with source and temperature. In the opinion of this author the single most important quality of charcoal to the gardener is the ability to lower acidity, also termed liming capacity or effective neutralizing power. This is easily measured in an agricultural laboratory as calcium carbonate equivalent (CCE). If you are growing acid-loving plants you will want a charcoal with negligible CCE, and purportedly this is true of Mulga (Acacia) wood, bamboo, and pine needle derived charcoal. If you are combating low soil pH and aluminum toxicity you will want a charcoal with substantial CCE. Oak and maple hardwood charcoal appear to have substantial CCE. Apparently Amazonian hardwood derived charcoal shares this characteristic. Raising soil pH has been identified as biochar's most important contribution to influencing soil quality in the context of Terra Preta. (Source)



1.08 What temperature range is considered "low temperature" in the context of biochar?
The theoretical low end of the range approaches 120 deg C, the lowest temperature at which wood will char, (Reference) thus the temperature at the pyrolysis front. A more practical low end is to use the piloted ignition temperature of wood, typically 350 deg C. (Reference) The theoretical high end, between biochar and more traditional charcoal, depends on the process and feedstock used, but is seldom indicated in excess of 600 deg C. This temperature range is more relevant to woody charcoal than to charcoal made from bamboo, or other high cellulose fuels. Woody charcoal has an interior layer of bio-oil condensates that microbes consume and is equal to glucose in its effect on microbial growth (Christoph Steiner, Energy with Agricultural Carbon Utilization (EACU) Symposium, June, 2004) High temperature char loses this layer and consequently may not promote soil fertility as well. (Source)



1.09 Can I substitute other forms of charcoal for biochar?
Absolutely. While the bio-oil condensates in biochar definitely play a role in soil fertility, charcoal without bio-oil condensates has been demonstrated to produce excellent results. It is normally advisable to avoid industrial charcoal briquettes because the binders used during manufacture can add undesirable constituents. On the other hand, briquette binder can be innocuous. See below (5.08) for information on how to receive some standardized rice-hull charcoal to conduct your own home research pot trials, and compare your results with others.



1.10 Does charcoal break down in soil?
Charcoal is highly stable, however soil microbes do break it down, although at a very slow rate.

2.02 What can I grow to make my own charcoal?
In Britain commercially available charcoal is made from fuel produced by "coppicing" as has been done in British forests for more than 2,000 years. This is an ecologically sustainable use of forests and may contribute to the health and longevity of some British forests.



2.03 Can I burn to bones to make charcoal for my garden?
Yes. It appears that charcoal derived from bones, along with charcoal derived from other types of food wastes, was a component in Terra Preta de Indio. Bones are an excellent source of phosphorus, an element in limited supply in cellulosic charcoal. Initial impressions are that bone charcoal will have higher ash and CCE (See 1.07) than cellulose-derived charcoal.


3.05 Besides water, what else can I soak the biochar in?
You would want to choose materials that would mitigate stalling [ See 5.04]: Compost tea, MiracleGro™(Calculation), fish emulsion, urine, more on urine, ....



3.06 Can I add biochar to compost?
Yes. This will help fill the biochar with biology and humic substances. For the added benefit of odor control, consider topping off each addition to the household kitchen scrap collector with a healthy layer ofbiochar.



3.07 Will biochar affect the compost process?
Casual observation indicates that adding fine, freshly made biochar may accelerate the composting process.



3.05 Will biochar harm the worms in my compost?
Composting worms have been observed to be unaffected below 50% charcoal content, above which reduced worm activity could occur.


4.0 How do I apply Biochar?
4.01 What is the target application rate to achieve the effects of biochar?
From the data available to date, it appears that crops respond positively to biochar additions up to at least 50 Mg C ha-1, provided sufficient fertilizer is provided to prevent charcoal induced stalling (see 5.04). This is equivalent to 5 kg/m2 (1 lb/sf) and works out to a loose charcoal depth of about 5 cm or 2 in. (Calculation) Crops may show growth reductions at higher applications. For most plant species and soil conditions studied to date, this growth reduction did not occur even with 140 Mg C ha-1."

Continued
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
"4.01 What materials combine well with biochar for application?
4.02 How is biochar generally used?
[normally , mixed in much the way you would prepare a planting bed by mixing in compost and other bulk organic amendments]

4.03 What is the normal application rate for biochar?
This is not well established


5.0 What happens after biochar is in the soil?
5.01 Does biochar affecnsoil pH?
Raising soil pH is biochar's most important contribution to influencing soil quality. (Source) Soil pH mostly influences the relative availability of nutrients. At low pH, aluminum toxicity is particularly harmful to plant growth. Aluminum toxicity is an extensive and severe soil problem and biochar is the most available and obvious solution that we have to combat it. Soil phosphorus availability is highly dependent on soil pH range, and thus biochar can be used to substantially increase phosphorus availability in soils that are below the ideal pH range of 6.5 to 7.0. (More on biochar and soil pH)



5.02 Does biochar increase soil CEC and Base Saturation?
5.03 Does biochar improve soil moisture characteristics?
5.04 Can adding biochar cause stalled growth?

Adding charcoal to soil can cause growth to stall where soil nitrogen levels are low. That is probably not the case in most garden situations which have the advantage of compost, manure and kitchen scraps.

The combination of returning bio-chars with high C/N ratios and abiotic buffering of mineral N may in some situations lead to low N availability to crops (Lehmann and Rondon 2005). In experiments in northern Sweden, however, increased nitrification and decreased ammonification was found after the addition of activated C to a pine forest (Berglund et al. 2004). It appears that the effects of bio-char on N dynamics in soils is not entirely understood. In a greenhouse study in Colombia, leguminous plants were able to compensate for low N availability with increased biological N2 fixation which is actually stimulated by bio-char additions (Rondon et al. 2004). Non-legumes, however, may require additional N fertilization to compensate for the immobilization. This is an undesirable effect as more N applications require more production of N fertilizers which is very energy-demanding (West and Marland 2002). (Source - PDF)





5.05 What can be done to prevent stalled growth ?
Three solutions are possible which are not mutually exclusive: (i) bio-chars are only applied to leguminous plants until sufficient N has built up to allow economically satisfactory production of non-legumes without a net increase of N fertilization; (ii) bio-chars are fortified with N for example in a composting step or during the production of bio-char in an energy production process (Lee and Li 2003); (iii) the amounts of applied bio-char are adjusted at a sufficiently low level to allow for N to accumulate and plant productivity to optimize. (Source - PDF)



5.05 Does biochar affect soil ecology?
The structure of the charcoal provide a refuge for small beneficial soil organisms from large grazers like earthworms.

Charcoal increases activity by mycorhizal fungi. It doesn't appear that this effect changes with the manufacturing temperature of the charcoal.

There is a long tradition in Japan of using charcoal as a soil improver. Nishio (1996) states “the idea that the application of charcoal stimulates indigenous arbuscular mycorrhiza fungi in soil and thus promotes plant growth is relatively well-known in Japan, although the actual application of charcoal is limited due to its high cost”. The relationship between mycorrhizal fungi and charcoal may be important in realising the potential of charcoal to improve fertility. Nishio (1996) reports that charcoal was found to be ineffective at stimulating alfalfa growth when added to sterilised soil, but that alfalfa growth was increased by a factor of 1.7-1.8 when unsterilised soil containing native mycorrizal fungi was also added. Warnock et al (2007) suggest four possible mechanisms by which biochar might influence mycorrhizal fungi abundance. These are (in decreasing order of currently available evidence supporting them): “alteration of soil physico-chemical properties; indirect effects on mycorrhizae through effects on other soil microbes; plant–fungus signalling interference and detoxification of allelochemicals on biochar; and provision of refugia from fungal grazers. (Source - PDF)

Low temperature woody charcoal (more so than grass or high cellulose) has an interior layer of bio-oil condensates that microbes consume and is equal to glucose in its effect on microbial growth (Christoph Steiner, Energy with Agricultural Carbon Utilization (EACU) Symposium, June, 2004) (Source)

Steiner et al (2008) observed that basal respiration (BR), microbial biomass, population growth and the microbe's efficiency (expressed by the metabolic quotient) increased linearly and significantly with increasing charcoal concentrations (50, 100 and 150 g kg-1 soil). Application of smoke condensates (pyroligneous acid, PA) causes a sharp increase in all these, plus in substrate-induced respiration (SIR), as well as an exponential increase in population. We suppose that the condensates from smoke contain easily degradable substances and only small amounts of inhibitory agents, which could be utilized by the microbes for their metabolism. (Source)

Aggregation is improved:

The presence of bio-char in soils actively promotes the formation of aggregates through a greater abundance of fungal hyphae. Bio-char is able to serve as a habitat for extraradical fungal hyphae that sporulate in their micropores due to lower competition from saprophytes (Saito and Marumoto, 2002). (Source - PDF)



5.06 Does biochar improve plant growth?
5.07 How much improved plant growth can I expect?

You can expect that harvested weight will be, in most cases, observeably higher with a combination of char+fertilizer than you will achieve with the same amount of fertilizer alone. In some cases, the observed effect will be dramatic. Steiner (2007) reported a doubling of maize grain yield with fertilizer+char compared to fertilizer alone. Yields subsequently declined over the course of four cropping cycles, however, the decline was less with char than with without. Significantly, soil P, K, Ca, Mg remained higher in the char amended soil despite greater harvest removal. (Source - PDF). Considering the few places that biochar has been tried, it should not come as a tremendous surprise to find that your actual results may turn out to be less than dramatic than this.



Data on the effect of charcoal on crop yields is still rudimentary – only a limited number of crops grown on a limited number of soils have been investigated. The interactions between crop, soil type, local conditions, and biochar feedstock, production method and application rate will have to be studied in far more detail before large scale deployment of biochar as a soil amendment can be contemplated. Nonetheless, there is evidence that at least for some crop/soil combinations, addition of charcoal may be beneficial. (Source - PDF)"
 

DonBrennon

Well-Known Member
From what I've seen those using high end cob lighting are absolutely loving the results. A lot of people report more terps or a wider terpenoid profile.
I can't wait to buy everything and get building, but I'm planning on using a shit load of cobs and running them real gently on passive heatsinks. I've done a few designs already, my latest one involved 40 cxb3070, 20 per light running 4 per heatsink at 700mA, but I change my mind on a weekly basis pmsl, I'm leaning toward 3590's now, but thats gonna take another whole load of number crunching to come up with the design.

At least I've found a great resource for helping with the design, check it out


https://www.rollitup.org/t/mau5capades-builds-grow-journal.881192/
 

DonBrennon

Well-Known Member
"4.01 What materials combine well with biochar for application?
4.02 How is biochar generally used?
[normally , mixed in much the way you would prepare a planting bed by mixing in compost and other bulk organic amendments]

4.03 What is the normal application rate for biochar?
This is not well established


5.0 What happens after biochar is in the soil?
5.01 Does biochar affecnsoil pH?
Raising soil pH is biochar's most important contribution to influencing soil quality. (Source) Soil pH mostly influences the relative availability of nutrients. At low pH, aluminum toxicity is particularly harmful to plant growth. Aluminum toxicity is an extensive and severe soil problem and biochar is the most available and obvious solution that we have to combat it. Soil phosphorus availability is highly dependent on soil pH range, and thus biochar can be used to substantially increase phosphorus availability in soils that are below the ideal pH range of 6.5 to 7.0. (More on biochar and soil pH)



5.02 Does biochar increase soil CEC and Base Saturation?
5.03 Does biochar improve soil moisture characteristics?
5.04 Can adding biochar cause stalled growth?

Adding charcoal to soil can cause growth to stall where soil nitrogen levels are low. That is probably not the case in most garden situations which have the advantage of compost, manure and kitchen scraps.

The combination of returning bio-chars with high C/N ratios and abiotic buffering of mineral N may in some situations lead to low N availability to crops (Lehmann and Rondon 2005). In experiments in northern Sweden, however, increased nitrification and decreased ammonification was found after the addition of activated C to a pine forest (Berglund et al. 2004). It appears that the effects of bio-char on N dynamics in soils is not entirely understood. In a greenhouse study in Colombia, leguminous plants were able to compensate for low N availability with increased biological N2 fixation which is actually stimulated by bio-char additions (Rondon et al. 2004). Non-legumes, however, may require additional N fertilization to compensate for the immobilization. This is an undesirable effect as more N applications require more production of N fertilizers which is very energy-demanding (West and Marland 2002). (Source - PDF)





5.05 What can be done to prevent stalled growth ?
Three solutions are possible which are not mutually exclusive: (i) bio-chars are only applied to leguminous plants until sufficient N has built up to allow economically satisfactory production of non-legumes without a net increase of N fertilization; (ii) bio-chars are fortified with N for example in a composting step or during the production of bio-char in an energy production process (Lee and Li 2003); (iii) the amounts of applied bio-char are adjusted at a sufficiently low level to allow for N to accumulate and plant productivity to optimize. (Source - PDF)



5.05 Does biochar affect soil ecology?
The structure of the charcoal provide a refuge for small beneficial soil organisms from large grazers like earthworms.

Charcoal increases activity by mycorhizal fungi. It doesn't appear that this effect changes with the manufacturing temperature of the charcoal.

There is a long tradition in Japan of using charcoal as a soil improver. Nishio (1996) states “the idea that the application of charcoal stimulates indigenous arbuscular mycorrhiza fungi in soil and thus promotes plant growth is relatively well-known in Japan, although the actual application of charcoal is limited due to its high cost”. The relationship between mycorrhizal fungi and charcoal may be important in realising the potential of charcoal to improve fertility. Nishio (1996) reports that charcoal was found to be ineffective at stimulating alfalfa growth when added to sterilised soil, but that alfalfa growth was increased by a factor of 1.7-1.8 when unsterilised soil containing native mycorrizal fungi was also added. Warnock et al (2007) suggest four possible mechanisms by which biochar might influence mycorrhizal fungi abundance. These are (in decreasing order of currently available evidence supporting them): “alteration of soil physico-chemical properties; indirect effects on mycorrhizae through effects on other soil microbes; plant–fungus signalling interference and detoxification of allelochemicals on biochar; and provision of refugia from fungal grazers. (Source - PDF)

Low temperature woody charcoal (more so than grass or high cellulose) has an interior layer of bio-oil condensates that microbes consume and is equal to glucose in its effect on microbial growth (Christoph Steiner, Energy with Agricultural Carbon Utilization (EACU) Symposium, June, 2004) (Source)

Steiner et al (2008) observed that basal respiration (BR), microbial biomass, population growth and the microbe's efficiency (expressed by the metabolic quotient) increased linearly and significantly with increasing charcoal concentrations (50, 100 and 150 g kg-1 soil). Application of smoke condensates (pyroligneous acid, PA) causes a sharp increase in all these, plus in substrate-induced respiration (SIR), as well as an exponential increase in population. We suppose that the condensates from smoke contain easily degradable substances and only small amounts of inhibitory agents, which could be utilized by the microbes for their metabolism. (Source)

Aggregation is improved:

The presence of bio-char in soils actively promotes the formation of aggregates through a greater abundance of fungal hyphae. Bio-char is able to serve as a habitat for extraradical fungal hyphae that sporulate in their micropores due to lower competition from saprophytes (Saito and Marumoto, 2002). (Source - PDF)



5.06 Does biochar improve plant growth?
5.07 How much improved plant growth can I expect?

You can expect that harvested weight will be, in most cases, observeably higher with a combination of char+fertilizer than you will achieve with the same amount of fertilizer alone. In some cases, the observed effect will be dramatic. Steiner (2007) reported a doubling of maize grain yield with fertilizer+char compared to fertilizer alone. Yields subsequently declined over the course of four cropping cycles, however, the decline was less with char than with without. Significantly, soil P, K, Ca, Mg remained higher in the char amended soil despite greater harvest removal. (Source - PDF). Considering the few places that biochar has been tried, it should not come as a tremendous surprise to find that your actual results may turn out to be less than dramatic than this.



Data on the effect of charcoal on crop yields is still rudimentary – only a limited number of crops grown on a limited number of soils have been investigated. The interactions between crop, soil type, local conditions, and biochar feedstock, production method and application rate will have to be studied in far more detail before large scale deployment of biochar as a soil amendment can be contemplated. Nonetheless, there is evidence that at least for some crop/soil combinations, addition of charcoal may be beneficial. (Source - PDF)"
Quality!!!!
 

calliandra

Well-Known Member
I feel good about my laziness and cheapness

o.m.g. @GreenSanta double thanks for that link -- just browsed more of his "debunking" vids and wow do they take the pressure off me sourcing all those exotic nutes that are always being talked of, especially on the forums!

From my little excursion it seems that end of the day, just gathering fall leaves and composting them (ideally vermicomposting) will provide plants with everything they'll ever need! Whew!

Time to kick back and relax, not let anyone sell me anything ever again -- and let mama nature do the work! :mrgreen:
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
I can't wait to buy everything and get building, but I'm planning on using a shit load of cobs and running them real gently on passive heatsinks. I've done a few designs already, my latest one involved 40 cxb3070, 20 per light running 4 per heatsink at 700mA, but I change my mind on a weekly basis pmsl, I'm leaning toward 3590's now, but thats gonna take another whole load of number crunching to come up with the design.

At least I've found a great resource for helping with the design, check it out


https://www.rollitup.org/t/mau5capades-builds-grow-journal.881192/
@hyroot this is your kind of thing isn't it?
 

GreenSanta

Well-Known Member
Lots of vids on YouTube showing step by step how to diy cob leds. Not cheap though I have nearly everything to build my first fixtures and I'm up to around 1100$ cad and I still have to buy fans, thermal compound and electrical wire.... So around $1200 cad for 400watts ... Cxb3590 apparently top of the line.

I would not have spent that kind of cash had I not grown a cycle with area51 vero29 cobs. I was impressed.
 

Al Yamoni

Well-Known Member
Hello, I wanted to ask if anyone here in the ROLS thread has any info on the harmless harvest coconut water with coffee extract added? It is the only HH product that I have access to in my area.. Thanks for any help!.. Sorry if this has been a topic of discussion in the recent past..
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
Anyone ever successfully use rols in their compost teas? I've got some soil from my last batch that is absolutely loaded with mycelium that I'm contemplating using in my next compost tea. I usually use vermicompost in the winter but I was looking at it this morning and was thinking that there's got to be way more beneficial micros in it than what's in my bag of vermi from bas.
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
Hello, I wanted to ask if anyone here in the ROLS thread has any info on the harmless harvest coconut water with coffee extract added? It is the only HH product that I have access to in my area.. Thanks for any help!.. Sorry if this has been a topic of discussion in the recent past..
Sounds like you should be highly skeptical of using it. Post a picture of the ingredients if you can.
 

4ftRoots

Well-Known Member
Anyone ever successfully use rols in their compost teas? I've got some soil from my last batch that is absolutely loaded with mycelium that I'm contemplating using in my next compost tea. I usually use vermicompost in the winter but I was looking at it this morning and was thinking that there's got to be way more beneficial micros in it than what's in my bag of vermi from bas.
I agree with Midwest Weedist. Just get the freeze dried powder or go to walmart and buy a dang coconut lol!
 

Rrog

Well-Known Member
o.m.g. @GreenSanta double thanks for that link -- just browsed more of his "debunking" vids and wow do they take the pressure off me sourcing all those exotic nutes that are always being talked of, especially on the forums!

From my little excursion it seems that end of the day, just gathering fall leaves and composting them (ideally vermicomposting) will provide plants with everything they'll ever need! Whew!

Time to kick back and relax, not let anyone sell me anything ever again -- and let mama nature do the work! :mrgreen:
The male brain wants to tweak everything. Growing weed is a great way for a lot of folks to get their tweak on. That's not me, anymore.

I'm completely of the opinion that everyday scraps run thru a vermicomposter will do it. Minimal local materials, assuming you have a soil worth a shit to begin with. Ammend with local materials. Many N sources available.

MAKE YOUR OWN BIOCHAR!! YES!!
 

Organicgrow42

Well-Known Member
Hey @Rrog, do you care to share what that simple recipe is?

I'm thinking of going backwards and starting fresh and in the mean time, I am going to get what I have tested and see where im at.
 
Top