I microwaved it. I was more concerned about the pests than the benes.
Try nuking an ant
I'm not sure where you're from, but I'm in the Northeast and my compost pile is still pretty cool. Due to covid, I ended up grabbing some compost out of my pile which I had planned on letting it sit for another summer (it's a lobster shell based compost) It wasnt broken down all the way, so I ran it through some window screen and got a really nice, rich looking, fine compost. I amended my last indoor grow soil with it and said what the hell and gave it a shot ( this was 3 weeks ago)What do you guys use as a means of pest prevention when bringing organic compost into an indoors grow?
I've been looking into ROLS since my grow is organic anyway, and I have a nice compost pile outside.. but I've always been told never bring outside, inside, so I'm concerned with the best way to accomplish this without investing my tent.
My compost makeup:
80% Chicken Manure/Pine Shaving (Deep Litter)
10% local soil (from flipping/stirring)
10% misc (crushed clam/oyster/mussel shell, grass clippings, egg shells, chicken feathers, kitchen scraps, used coffee grounds, crushed granite left over from kitchen remodel, diatomaceous earth, perlite, used "sunshine mix #4" from previous grows, EWC from local worms in the compost)
Obviously I dont want to bake the compost and kill off the beneficial microbes in it, but I'd rather find a way to prevent pests rather than react to them after they rear themselves.
Appreciate the responses in advance!
What is your soil mix?Hey guys, wanted to jump in with my first post ever. Long time lurker (10 years), and have learned a lot just by reading. Switched over to the no till organic method last year. Nothing but easy growing, pest free, and good dense, dank buds. Excellent yields. My vegetable garden is now producing more than ever with the same method.
Base soil is 1 part Kelloggs Soil amendment, 1 part Coco, and 1 part homemade vermicompost. I then regularly and casually (dont measure, I just grab a handful and sprinkle on top:What is your soil mix?
I let my pots sit for a couple months after I chop the stalk, and by then all the roots are decomposed and turned back into nutes. But you don't need to wait for it to break down, I just have extra pots, so I rotate em usually.I'm using living soil in 5 gallon fabric pots and considering going to no till. My understanding is that with no till, at harvest, you cut the stalk at soil level and then plant in the same pot/same soil. My question is, if you've just harvested, the root ball won't have started to break down and it seems like it would be difficult to plant into a root ball.
What am i missing here?
Sorry, my terminology may be a little off.I've always considered no till and living soil to be the exact same thing. What exactly is the difference between the two to you? You can cut the stock in living soil as well as it is living, the roots break down process is part of that environment and to be living, root breakdown is a process that needs to take place anyways.
In no till or living soil, your roots begin to break down way before the plant is cut. You can plant immediately after you've cut the stock. This is because the stock itself is relatively inert material until the breakdown process starts to happen. It also wont choke out any new roots since it should be in a state of decompose. Worms help move this process along relatively quickly as without, you'd have to wait much longer for the breakdown process to be complete.
I have used super soil recipes, no till/ living and what have you for many years and the process is the same in either one. You can replant in a super soil as well. It all depends on the amount of amendments already present and the amount of replenishment happening. Without worms, you may need to let the soil set and breakdown before replanting simply because the nutrients haven't been restocked yet.
Below is some great material to read for starting out or even for experienced users.
Yup! Bacteria, fungi, and indirectly protozoa tooThe old ones feed your worms.
Try diotomaceous earth for gnats. Adults and larvae.I'm not sure where you're from, but I'm in the Northeast and my compost pile is still pretty cool. Due to covid, I ended up grabbing some compost out of my pile which I had planned on letting it sit for another summer (it's a lobster shell based compost) It wasnt broken down all the way, so I ran it through some window screen and got a really nice, rich looking, fine compost. I amended my last indoor grow soil with it and said what the hell and gave it a shot ( this was 3 weeks ago)
Anyways, long story short, my fear of fungus gnats came true a week ago. There was an explosion of flyers like no other. Even with my preventive measure of mosquito dunks and covering my SIPS pots so there was no exposed soil they mustve been dormant and hatched, Im not sure. I set up some yellow sticky traps, caught a lot of flyers then the hypoaspis miles showed up like I've never seen before either. Im guessing with how 'fresh' my compost is, there were more miles than gnats , and they completely fucked up all those gnat eggs buried in the soil. Two days ago I opened my grow cabinet doors and there were hardly any flying gnats. Overnight they disappeared.
I guess what I'm trying to say is, hopefully you will have more beneficial bugs than nasties and nature will correct things on it's own. Good luck.