Reliable ppm chart for marijuana??

How does that transfer over to ec/ppm?

generally 1.8 -2.0ec here, as high as 2.3 on some before i see any issues, but i don't push anymore.
So I made the decision to think in Ec as most of the top botanists think on this scale as it is universal. There are 3 ppm scales I'm aware of 500 650 and 700 so you have to translate what a ppm dude may be attempting to say and most aren't aware of what their meter is even calibrated to so massive swing in actual readings. At 1.2 Ec you can feed perpetually as a flush from higher Ec levels brings you back to the beginning. I found the minerals are Marshalled past the casperian strip easier allowing for continual easy feeding. Amino acids and kelp at a 5:2 ratio increase biochemical reactions 50% in the rhyzosphere. Hope that helps.
 
Yes people should stop using ppm. Those ppm values are estimates based on a conversion your ec meters make before displaying it. Even if they seem more accurate, they usually are not.
 
So I made the decision to think in Ec as most of the top botanists think on this scale as it is universal. There are 3 ppm scales I'm aware of 500 650 and 700 so you have to translate what a ppm dude may be attempting to say and most aren't aware of what their meter is even calibrated to so massive swing in actual readings. At 1.2 Ec you can feed perpetually as a flush from higher Ec levels brings you back to the beginning. I found the minerals are Marshalled past the casperian strip easier allowing for continual easy feeding. Amino acids and kelp at a 5:2 ratio increase biochemical reactions 50% in the rhyzosphere. Hope that helps.
What I meant was what the hell is "interpretation index" on that chart and how does it relate to EC?
 
PPM for Hanna Chart PPM


Seedlings, Early Sprouts 100 to 250

Early Vegging 300 to 400

Full Vegetation 450 to 700


Early Blooming 750 to 950

Full Mature Blooms 1000 to 1600

Note: EC Calculations are different, here's a conversion chart :
heres a great chart that shows how different PPM can be from meter to meter... EC is the only real universal language...


181763d1160775312-printable-ec-ppm-cf-conversion-chart-ppm-ec-c.jpg


Remember to discount the ppm of your water.

So if the PPM of my tap water is 500 and i add 300-400ppms of nutrients in it my final PPM solution should be 800-900 PPM for early veg?
 
So when they say to add a certain ppm of nutrients it is just the nutrients and not the entire solution? If RO is practically 0 then I would still need to add 300-400 ppms of nudes to it?
The best way of thinking of those initial base water readings is passengers on a greyhound bus. Free up seats of unwanted passengers for the ones you want. Calcium carbonate wilst nice for ph buffer is immobile.
 
So when they say to add a certain ppm of nutrients it is just the nutrients and not the entire solution? If RO is practically 0 then I would still need to add 300-400 ppms of nudes to it?
You should add as many nudes as you can get in there. And share those nudes.
 
Read your plants first...
Once your plants are a medium green and growing super quick and healthy, THEN take a reading. Cannabis is extremely diverse. Dark green, soft leaves are way too much nitrogen/nutes, very light green with discoloration on lower leaves is a sign of not enough.

Let the plant tell you, then write it down.
 
:wall:

Different carbonates have different EC values. The biggest cuprits in hard water are Calcium and Magnesium.
Lots of cities use Limestone clean the water, so your tap water will have a bunch of Calcium in it.

Calciums EC value will be different from say, the EC values of Nitrates with in the store bought premix.

The bottled premix uses a very specific combination of salts to get the values of EC that they're specified for, so if you mix them with Tap Water, your throwing the EC values off substantially and the total EC or ppm or CF or whatever, is accumulatively inaccurate.

This inaccuracy will increase even more with the combination of salt sources, especially if you mix name brands.
 
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Appreciate the input guys, great info. I resorted back to RO and fed about 600ppm and growth exploded with nice medium green.
 
Here's what I go by. As a rough guide for you, it won't be far off no matter what you're using brand wise.

I'll start off at 1/2 the recommended dose and work my way up from there to make sure I'm not gonna burn them.


image.jpeg
 
:wall:

Different carbonates have different EC values. The biggest cuprits in hard water are Calcium and Magnesium.
Lots of cities use Limestone clean the water, so your tap water will have a bunch of Calcium in it.

Calciums EC value will be different from say, the EC values of Nitrates with in the store bought premix.

The bottled premix uses a very specific combination of salts to get the values of EC that they're specified for, so if you mix them with Tap Water, your throwing the EC values off substantially and the total EC or ppm or CF or whatever, is accumulatively inaccurate.

This inaccuracy will increase even more with the combination of salt sources, especially if you mix name brands.


I find this interesting,cos my tap water is 481ppm, and when I add 3/4 strenght of AN nutes, my ppm goes waay above 2000pmm

plants dont show nute burn..
 
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