riddleme, darkdestruction420, FDD and other heavyweights on New. central, we got ???

fdd2blk

Well-Known Member
I never said your plants would NOT sprout. I said orientation can help them sprout FASTER and with LESS failure. Any increase in early growth improvement has a snow balls effect on later growth. Enough said.

I don't like wasting time and money, but maybe you do.

what a waste, .....................


[video=youtube;2QLiEgCN350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2QLiEgCN350[/video]
 

mygirls

Medical Marijuana (MOD)
oh no i understand why you are cutting yours, iam simply stating why i dont cut mine, which is, i dont need to. ive never actually seen any side by side proof of cutting foliage increasing yield, but iam also no Pro, and to state that i knew better would be a complete fallacy.
i know we all have diffrent planes for our girls... LOL it all good.. there is really no wrong way or right way to grow a weed.. they just grow
 

KlosetKing

Well-Known Member
i know we all have diffrent planes for our girls... LOL it all good.. there is really no wrong way or right way to grow a weed.. they just grow
for sure,. though iam sure we can both agree that some grow better than others depending on who's hands they are in, and when you look at my grows thats obvious =D

as for the clipping of those water leaves, iam interested if you have any links to some studies or anything? i mean ive been thinking about trying to clip them for a long time, but the consensus is its at best not necessary and at worst decreases yield.

-edit- to clarify, i was saying that my grows are NOT as good as others lol, was not intended as any form of braggin ;)
 

mygirls

Medical Marijuana (MOD)
for sure,. though im sure we can both agree that some grow better than others depending on who's hands they are in, and when you look at my grows that's obvious =D

as for the clipping of those water leaves, iam interested if you have any links to some studies or anything? i mean ive been thinking about trying to clip them for a long time, but the consensus is its at best not necessary and at worst decreases yield.

-edit- to clarify, i was saying that my grows are NOT as good as others lol, was not intended as any form of bragging ;)
in time they will be.. but always think your grows are the shit so you don't dicoureg yourself next grow.
 

KlosetKing

Well-Known Member
in time they will be.. but always think your grows are the shit so you don't dicoureg yourself next grow.
well considering that i am close to guaranteed to get more in pot than i spent to start, ill be happy no matter what =D already have big plans for round 2
 

svchop889

Well-Known Member
Cutting foliage doesn't do anything, leaves only block about 15% of the visible light that comes in contact with the leaf and most of that is light in the green color spectrum which is not used by a plant. Besides its about PAR lighting, the wavelength and spectrums actually used by the plant for photosynthesis is different than what we see with our eyes. So when you cut a leaf away you are just removing space used to store/produce sugars for the plant. Not benefiting it with more light.
 

whiteflour

Well-Known Member
what a waste, .....................
Rapid, uniform germination and emergence of corn help set the stage for maximum grain yield at the end of the season. Without such a successful start to the season, the crop is behind the proverbial "eight-ball" right from the beginning. The good news is that there are only four simple requirements for uniform germination and emergence of corn. The bad news is that one or more of the requirements are sometimes absent in one field or another.

http://www.agry.purdue.edu/ext/corn/news/timeless/germemergreq.html


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Farmers wouldn't spend tens of thousands of dollars on seed-orienting planters if there wasn't a cost effective benefit. ;)
 

fdd2blk

Well-Known Member
Rapid, uniform germination and emergence of corn help set the stage for maximum grain yield at the end of the season. Without such a successful start to the season, the crop is behind the proverbial "eight-ball" right from the beginning. The good news is that there are only four simple requirements for uniform germination and emergence of corn. The bad news is that one or more of the requirements are sometimes absent in one field or another.

http://www.agry.purdue.edu/ext/corn/news/timeless/germemergreq.html


----------

Farmers wouldn't spend tens of thousands of dollars on seed-orienting planters if there wasn't a cost effective benefit. ;)

nobody here is growing corn. :roll:

i already said "you win". seems you just have something to prove now. :sleep:
 

EvolAlex

Well-Known Member
nobody here is even growing a strain of weed named corn.. gtfoh winner. LMAO .
As for a question i would like enlightened on is about harvest and cure.
Ive read your sticky guide FDD. But its brief and so far most of my cuttings have been harshish. Lol not even a word. But basic temps and humidity (min and max and best) After dry enough how do you tell? Stem snaps? Still Bendy? And curing how often to really "burp" it and the best thing to cure in. Mason Jars? Baggies? Just some expert opinions on those. I know they are all over but ive seen so many searching in advance that i have so many mixed answers. Trying to get this thread on track.
 

jawbrodt

Well-Known Member
Wow, this thing sure took a turn for the worst, since i floated off the other night.lol Well, since everybody else is causing shit, I will add some of my own, after readin through the last couple pages....


...I was shocked to hear that one of our "heavyweights" never even so much as cared, to look into PH, and the effects it had on growing. IMO, he'll never become one of 'the best of the best', even though he is obviously a successful growers with plenty of experience. IDK, just seems 'sloppy' to me, to not ever had the desire to understand something as relevant as PH, even if it's never been a issue. Or, maybe I'm just obessed with fine-tuning things, and have too much time on my hands, to do so? IDK.lol

Sorry man, but it just bothered me to read that.
 

jawbrodt

Well-Known Member
nobody here is even growing a strain of weed named corn.. gtfoh winner. LMAO .
As for a question i would like enlightened on is about harvest and cure.
Ive read your sticky guide FDD. But its brief and so far most of my cuttings have been harshish. Lol not even a word. But basic temps and humidity (min and max and best) After dry enough how do you tell? Stem snaps? Still Bendy? And curing how often to really "burp" it and the best thing to cure in. Mason Jars? Baggies? Just some expert opinions on those. I know they are all over but ive seen so many searching in advance that i have so many mixed answers. Trying to get this thread on track.
For curing, any air-tight container will work, as long as they don't have any kind of funky scent that can be absorbed by the smoke. That's why many prefer glass, but plastic works well, too. Burping? You should burp them at least once a day, two or three times, if you want to play it really safe, til the smoke gets nearly completely dried. The containers don't need opened for a long time, either, just enough to exchange the air inside, replacing it with fresh stuff. It's common sense. If you have your smoke all stuff in one smaller jar, it'll take longer for the air to exchange, than if you had it in a larger, more 'open' container, and should be left open for 5 minutes or so, to make sure. If you're in a hurry, dump the smoke out, then stuff it back in, and you're done, air exchanged. The buds should be rotated often anyway, to provide even curing, so you'd be killing two birds with one stone. Otherwise, mix your buds around when you burp them, to do the same.

I'm outta time, so I'll leave the "stem snapping" part to soneone else.LOL

Oh yeah, when curing, you want to store the contairs in darkness, and at cooler temps. I think 65*(give or take) is supposed to be the ideal temp, but as long as it isn't much over 75* or less than 55*, the smoke will be fine. Just make sure to give it at least a month, then start reaping the rewards. They say that there's no benefit to curing more than 6 months, but that's just something I've read along the way, so can't confirm or deny, but i imagine it's fairly accurate. 2 months, is usually enough to make any smoker a happy camper. :cool:
 

mygirls

Medical Marijuana (MOD)
Wow, this thing sure took a turn for the worst, since i floated off the other night.lol Well, since everybody else is causing shit, I will add some of my own, after readin through the last couple pages....


...I was shocked to hear that one of our "heavyweights" never even so much as cared, to look into PH, and the effects it had on growing. IMO, he'll never become one of 'the best of the best', even though he is obviously a successful growers with plenty of experience. IDK, just seems 'sloppy' to me, to not ever had the desire to understand something as relevant as PH, even if it's never been a issue. Or, maybe I'm just obessed with fine-tuning things, and have too much time on my hands, to do so? IDK.lol

Sorry man, but it just bothered me to read that.
when it comes to outdoor growing ph ain't nothing to worry about. you have to relize that the dirt is a natural buffer.. why do you thik all (most of) plant, trees are green and our ladies to be.... don't you think that if it was a problem we would be adjusting our ph...
 

whiteflour

Well-Known Member
when it comes to outdoor growing ph ain't nothing to worry about. you have to relize that the dirt is a natural buffer.. why do you thik all (most of) plant, trees are green and our ladies to be.... don't you think that if it was a problem we would be adjusting our ph...

Your assuming to know what someone else is planting in........... soil only buffers the pH of your water. If you don't have the pH of your soil right from the beginning there are going to be problems. I agree that "indoor" growing this is much less of problem, but "outdoor" growing there are a lot of factors to consider. Such as local plant varieties and their impact on pH level, ie Oak and Pine forests are often highly acidic.
 

mygirls

Medical Marijuana (MOD)
Your assuming to know what someone else is planting in........... soil only buffers the pH of your water. If you don't have the pH of your soil right from the beginning there are going to be problems. I agree that "indoor" growing this is much less of problem, but "outdoor" growing there are a lot of factors to consider. Such as local plant varieties and their impact on pH level, ie Oak and Pine forests are often highly acidic.
dude you are all backasswards.. outdoor is much more forgiving then indoor...
 

whiteflour

Well-Known Member
No, you just assume because things are good in your region that it's good everywhere. Very few places in this country have huge pine forests and acidic soil.

Let's take for example the Ponderosa pine, native of your Oregon and very similar to Georgias Longleaf pine which grows in a much younger and less acidic forest. Georgia Pacific had a lot of problems importing the Longleaf to your area however the Ponderosa flourished well in upper regions of southeast, the climate is the same, the acidity is what was different.
 

jawbrodt

Well-Known Member
when it comes to outdoor growing ph ain't nothing to worry about. you have to relize that the dirt is a natural buffer.. why do you thik all (most of) plant, trees are green and our ladies to be.... don't you think that if it was a problem we would be adjusting our ph...
Yes, I know that, but most new growers don't. That was my point. This should've been explained when the question was originally asked.
 

EvolAlex

Well-Known Member
For curing, any air-tight container will work, as long as they don't have any kind of funky scent that can be absorbed by the smoke. That's why many prefer glass, but plastic works well, too. Burping? You should burp them at least once a day, two or three times, if you want to play it really safe, til the smoke gets nearly completely dried. The containers don't need opened for a long time, either, just enough to exchange the air inside, replacing it with fresh stuff. It's common sense. If you have your smoke all stuff in one smaller jar, it'll take longer for the air to exchange, than if you had it in a larger, more 'open' container, and should be left open for 5 minutes or so, to make sure. If you're in a hurry, dump the smoke out, then stuff it back in, and you're done, air exchanged. The buds should be rotated often anyway, to provide even curing, so you'd be killing two birds with one stone. Otherwise, mix your buds around when you burp them, to do the same.

I'm outta time, so I'll leave the "stem snapping" part to soneone else.LOL

Oh yeah, when curing, you want to store the contairs in darkness, and at cooler temps. I think 65*(give or take) is supposed to be the ideal temp, but as long as it isn't much over 75* or less than 55*, the smoke will be fine. Just make sure to give it at least a month, then start reaping the rewards. They say that there's no benefit to curing more than 6 months, but that's just something I've read along the way, so can't confirm or deny, but i imagine it's fairly accurate. 2 months, is usually enough to make any smoker a happy camper. :cool:
thanks alot man.. ++++rep for u. Thats the problem my dumbass doesnt wait nearly a month i smoke it.. lol thanks man
 
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