AnimalMother1974
Active Member
Will nemarodes survive in soil that uses synthetic nutes?
ROOT APHIDS The Final Solution!
- Thread starter Dr. Who
- Start date
Alexander Supertramp
Well-Known Member
As long as you do not abuse them yes. Over concentrations of organic or synthetic nutrients can cause harm to soil microbes. In some cases organics can cause more harm than synthetics. Example: Manure can contain extremely high levels of ammonia Its very important to properly compost any manure or animal wastes before applying them to you medium. But if your not into the organic and not worried about chemicals there are better choices than nematodes.
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Dutchess11
New Member
I am here to diagnose some fuckery. I have had what I thought was fungus gnats buzzing around for a couple grows. They don't seem to do much harm so aside from setting sticky traps, I haven't paid them much attention.
I have some babies in week 2 of veg that are drooping a little more than I would like. This is my first time working with this strain so I'm not sure if it's to be expected. In any case, I begin looking into potential pests and freak out when I discover I may have root aphids.
I sliced some potatoes and placed them on my soil last night. The following photos are what I found today.
Hey, I've seen evidence of this kind in a grow, too. From research, it looks like many stages of root aphid life cycles. Did you ever get a confirmation, or fix the problem?
Also, @Dr. Who , thanks for sharing this... I've been ordering many supplies, while using met52 to prevent RA from infesting new plants, that are brought from an off-site veg space, but now that it's been a few years since you posted this, do you still stand by the original 4-part system? So many new products, and with an infestation showing 3-4 stages of RAs, would you still recommend this?
Also, when it comes to cross-contamination, should I be worried about eggs that could've come into my home, getting tracked back into my grow, after everything??? I'm having a hell of a time finding any research on whether RA eggs can live for long periods of time without a host, or being in a grow room, with perfect conditions for hatching... I'd love some feedback!! I'm a seasoned grower, but first time dealing with a real infestation.
cactusbudz
Active Member
GO GREEN
Yeah go organic if you can , use nematodes for prevention in veg, for sure if they get out of hand you can give them a good soak in organocide , neem oil or hydrogen peroxide. I found a great resource here https://www.sensigarden.com/root-aphids-cannabis/ , I wasn't sure what i had the pics helped.
THE KONASSURE
Well-Known Member
spinosad and various bacillus bacteria will take them out.... OG bio war..... montgomery... captain jacks.... and a load of powdered sprays you can get some amazing bacteria based stuff coming out of india at the moment
when root drenching do you do it with lights on or off? i heard its better to do it with lights off so it docent fry the plant.
also 21 grams for 5 gallons seems like alot for a root drench
slacker140
Well-Known Member
Has anyone mixed dr zymes with the pyrethrins for this? I initially used dr zymes in a soil soak for an hour before the pyrethrins and at medium strength it significantly knocked their numbers down. It went from seeing 100's of them crawl all over the soil and out onto the solo cups they were in to not seeing a single one alive. So was wondering if it will work just as well to do the dr zymes and pyrethrins mixed together for more effectiveness or if it will hinder them?
iceman3000
Well-Known Member
Hello
What rate are you using Pryritheam was just going to use bonners I think as for IMO aka merit 75 that will take 75 to 100 days to clear the system if you are having to test for resale
Thanks for your help
iceman3000
Well-Known Member
iceman3000
Well-Known Member
1 last questionHave root aphids?
Thought you had fungus gnats and they don't go away? You may have the insidious Root aphid!
I was just asked about how to rid a grow of these bastards. I learned this 5 years ago and it's time to share!
ROOT APHIDS are the most difficult pest to COMPLETELY destroy in your garden!I have dealt with these damn things before and after contact with MSU and a Bayer Pharm Horticulturist (Word has it that Bayer has developed a new insecticide specific to root aphids, but it's not on the market yet. All though another grower I know was sent some [he badgered the hell out of them] for testing out on his problem - it worked). We came up with this 4 part system to break the cycle of root aphid pain.
Why a 4 part system? Because what ever 1 or 2 things you do they come fucking back! If you follow this method,,,,,they will be GONE!
The first 3 parts involve the actual fight to COMPLETELY kill off the infestation. Lets get started. Get ALL the needed insecticides FIRST, before you start this method!
#1: Root drench with Pyrethrin 2 times, 5 days apart! For soil run it through and use alot to be sure you get UNDERNEATH the root ball (something called the umbrella effect comes into play here, so you want to be SURE that all the media gets wet)! For Hydro,,simply remove the net pot and place it into a new container and pour the Pyreth mix through the stone's, ball's or what ever and let the root ball soak for 10 min. ! This will alone effectively kill off 80 -85 % of the problem only!
NOW 7 DAYS LATER DO THE FOLLOWING
#2: Get something called BotaniGuard (ES [liquid] or 22WP [powder]) Amazon sells this for the best price I have found anywhere, at $93 for the ES and $73 for the 22WP.....not cheap I know,,,BUT,,, it's going to be better then tossing every plant you have out and going to step #4 (unless you want to).
For soil, mix as directed and drench again as listed above (once and again 5 days later). Same thing applies for the soil as above and the same for the hydro.. DO NOT "shortcut" and use this stuff in the nutrient solution as it will kill off the fungal spores of the BotaniGuard. This will alone only kill off 98% of the problem,,,they WILL come back!
http://www.amazon.com/BotaniGard-22W...rds=botanigard
NOW 7 DAYS LATER DO THE FOLLOWING
#3: Get something called ORTHENE, the generic is far cheaper and is called ACEPHATE 97UP....Yes this is strong stuff,,,,,BUT at the level required for our use and the systemic duration of the chem it IS considered safe for our specific end use of the plant. Mix as directed (you will need a calculator to figure out the mix ratio per gallon. (4.7 grams per gallon?) please recheck my memory on this one as my grow notes from back then are not here at the house). Now put this into a spray bottle and LIGHTLY mist the TOP of the leaves on the entire plant. You DO NOT have to bury it in this stuff. It is a systemic and only needs a little to spread out into the entire plant, including the root system....The man at Bayer said to mist the top of the media you grow in also if you are in soil.....DO NOT DO SO IN HYDRO. Repeat in 7 Days!!!! This is it,,,,you've now killed off your problem in the plants.....BUT your not done yet!
http://www.growerssolution.com/PROD/...ontrol/70-1105
LASTLY and JUST as IMPORTANTLY
PART #4: While you are waiting in between applications of the insecticides. You must now clean and STERILIZE everything in the grow!!!!!! Pot's, tools, walls, floors, gaps between every door,vent, any incoming air tube's, AC unit's, Heaters, etc, etc, etc......Don't leave anything out! The damn eggs are VERY persistent!!!! So be especially SURE ALL pots and anything that contacts your growing media is sterilized! For hydro,,,be sure that when the grow is over you DO the same for the COMPLETE system your using!!! Lines, pots, res. ANYTHING that contacted the feed solution and everywhere that it didn't!
This seems like overkill, I know. Here in Michigan this was never a problem until it was imported from Cali on Grape rootings and clones.
Some may say "I got rid of them doing this "X", or you may find someone saying that "I did "Y", and the internet bozo's suggested "Z".....
But "I" can guarantee you that they will return! And 5 years ago, we would Kill them and a month later they were back worse then before...... It took a lot of internet and phone time to get this squared away for good!
I'm here today to say that this IS what FINALLY ended the problem and "knock wood" it has not come back again......KEEP IT CLEAN!
I suppose you may get "LUCKY". But do you REALLY want to take the chance?
GOOD LUCK!!!!!
When using BotaniGuard you say no nuits we water veg drain to waist and have to add something every other watering at least cal Meg lest say so if I just use fresh RO and BotaniGuard but will have to feed something in 2 day s your option