Root rot prob aero
- Thread starter bread23
- Start date
i thought sprayers/ are supposed to be on a timer? like 1min on, 5 off or something like that? i was looking into doing aero for a while and don't remember people keeping the sprayers on 24/7 unless doing fogponics. i might be wrong though, its been like 6months since I've looked into aero
AKGrowAreo
Well-Known Member
Maybe I can help. I run DIY aeroNFT with Botanicare nutes. Do you have any light leaking into your res? That could do it. Are you running any Hydroguard or similar, if not, go get some? 68 degrees is right on that line so if you can lower the temps to closer to 65 you will be in better shape. What is the temp inside your root chambers? If above 68 in the root chamber you could rot the rot from that even if your nutes are cooler. I have a thermostat inside my root chamber hooked up to an air pump that resides outside my grow area so it can pump cool air into the root chamber whenever it gets above 65 degrees. Gives me some damn healthy roots. Hope one of these solutions helps. Happy growing!
AKGrowAreo
Well-Known Member
Best results I have found are with my timers at 80 seconds on and 8 minutes off. Many other AeroNTFers agree. Also keeps your res cooler as @jronnn mentioned
I think I may have found my prob it was a light leak indeed on top of my plexi glass lid some how I must have scraped the paint off while cleaning and didn't notice in the process of changing to a rf board of sum sort so I won't have this problem again thanks for all ur help y'all hopefully my ladies pull thru also about the timers I have a aeroflo 60 not in use rite now but my my pumps ran 24/7 on it and never had a prob wit this I think that's just a myth as long as ur providing ur roots with enough o2 they shld be good another reason why I don't like timers is cuz if it fails and I'm not around they would be done for
Budley Doright
Well-Known Member
Once the roots are well established I have run sprayers 24/7 without a problem but you don't have to. Also as stated your Res temps are at 68 but your roots are probably quite a bit hotter. What color is your plexiglass lid and you should insulate it as well as light proofing it. I had rot and it was due to the root tray getting way to hot even with Res at 70, the roots were getting into the 80's 
do the plexiglass warp at all with all the plants in it or does it stay totally stiff? I'm going to need to use plexiglass or ABS for my tray and im wondering if it would bend/warp for a 3x6 tray
Budley Doright
Well-Known Member
I had some slight issues with warping, mind you a much smaller lid, and I ended up drilling holes in the lip around my tray and using twist ties to hold it tight but I fear a 6' lid would be to large to easily access the root system if all tied down. What about plywood wrapped really well with plastic after painting it, just a thought, also I think plexiglass thick enough not to bend would be hugely expensive. Keep us posted as I'm curious how you do it.
WeedFreak78
Well-Known Member
I totally agree about hydroguard. Other root inoculants probably also work. I run a similar system sometimes. My res's run 64-70f, I've seen rail temps as high as 87f, with no established canopy and ~24" from a 600. Roots went black. I did a bleach sterilization(not recommended) then started HG. I got rail temps down to mid 70's and had new roots starting in a few days. Another week and everything was back on track. I haven't had any issues since starting to use it, even left the cloner off for 18+hours and roots stayed nice, a little dry, but bounced right back in 24hrs. Shit, might even be why they survived, the root rot couldn't set in as easily, idk? I've run it with AN nutes, and now I'm all Botanicare.
Roots temps are a point of contention for me, ideally they should be around low to mid 70's for optimal uptake. 68-72 is ok. Anything under 65f and metabolic process start slowing. The problem for most with temps at mid to low 70's is controlling DO and biologicals, without going sterile. I've got it so my rails are cooled to mid 60's during spraying, go up to mid 70's between cycles. Seems to work good.
WeedFreak78
Well-Known Member
Next time you break the system down, glue some B&W poly over the plexiglass. Paint sucks on plastic. I lightly sanded,then washed the lid to my diy cloner, painted it with the paint specifically for plastic, crap still flakes off. Only paint I've seen stick to plastic was in the body shop where we had the right prep chemicals.
I used 3/4 inch had no bending issue at all just make sure u drill the holes in a even space anything under 3/4inch I found to be too flimsy and therefore would have to be supported by sumthng underneath the lid I don't know if your allowed to talk about other forums on here but Google pirates diy aero table I believe it's on Icmag that's where I learned a lot about these diy aero tables dude is a beast
All u have to do is sand prime then 2 coats of paint I have to clean up outside on patio stones that's where my scratch came from I'm pretty sure I've found that this rf board is way better than any plexi that I've came across anyway and u will have extra too I also made a lid better for my rez from it got my temps down to 66 with it
Rf board man from insulation department at hardware store lightweight cheap and easy as hell to cut and it ranges from 1/4 inch thick to 3 inch thick and both sides have a a layer to protect the stryofoam one is a white mold resistant which I faced towards the inside of Rez the other is a silver reflective material to keep heat away and to reflect the light which is facing up fits perfect rite on the lip of of 2x4 tray I have
AKGrowAreo
Well-Known Member
I use an air stone pump to pump fresh cool air into my root chambers in my rails, and in my veg unit I blow cold air into the root chamber using a 4 inch booster fan. Anyone have a better solution for maintaining the perfect temps in aero root chambers? Im all ears cause my solution is only a make shift one and I am sure there are better ideas out there.
Have u insulated them with that bubble wrap reflective lookin stuff?
i just don't really light the idea of using plywood to be honest but that what I'm saying on the price thing, idk if it'd be better to just clue some sort of pvc support in the middle or if i should spend the extra money to get a thickass piece of plexi
i probably wouldn't be drilling it because I'm doing flood and drain with suspended netcups like how "panhead" and "alpha phase" does it (not sure if you're familiar with those members) but literally pirates cave is what i studied when i was thinking about doing aero, you can see i commented on his page a couple months ago wishing he was still online, on my fort phoenix account on icmag lol but he says ABS is best because how no light can penetrate it but at the same time plexiglass is supposedly stronger and more stiff, you think the 3/4 plexi would work good for a 3x6? single cola sog, 32-36 plants in 5.5" netcups with hydroton
Google the insulation board I'm telling u it's better than the plexi and a lot cheaper the piece of plexi I used was 140 compared to the two 4'x8' pieces of the rf board I got for 42 bucks I have no painting or sanding to worry about either and there is absolutely no way of light getting thru it
Budley Doright
Well-Known Member
I'll have a look at the systems u mentioned and yes I hear ya re plywood lol. I use the board that is now available for bathroom walls and has a vinyl covering and foam core but it flex's, have u priced 3/4 plexiglass? Curios to know how much it is.
you were talking to the other guy about the Rf board but ill look into it, you think it would stay stiff and not crack in a 3x6 tray? what thickness would you recommend? also, whats the exact name/brand of the board you're talking about? theres a bunch that come up when i search
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