roots organics 5 ml master pack

What's up fellow men of the doobie. I posted this in newbie thinking it would get more views but since I am looking for someone with experience in the matter maybe the newb forum isn't the place to post it.

Anyways, I'm trying to figure out when to feed with each nutrient. At this point I've got them all categorized into 3 groups (not including flower and veg, I'm only in veg now and by the time I get to flower I'm sure I'll know how to use the supplements).

1) soil amendments. I was gonna go ahead and use all of these (might leave out one or two if they seem redundant-like the elemental and the foundation both are mainly cal mag but one has iron). Any amendments I don't use now I'll probably top coat with later.

2) Main nutrients (grow formula, high nkp etc) that I will feed with water. This group is going to be my main regiment based with the Buddha grow formula, and I guess whatever supplements I add with it.

3) Supplements. The third group is the one I'm wondering how to feed with. Should I just add one or two with my nutes at a time when I feed, and cycle through them?

I'm growing in ffof, but my plants are mostly mature and passed the seedling stage and have already been started on nutes. I had heard ffof was super hot but I haven't been having any problems starting seedlings or anything, plus they've been in it for a couple weeks and I heard it only stays hot for like 3-4.

Anyways, I'm open to anything from anyone with experience with this line.

When to dose? When they are dry, before they droop.
Pick them up, you'll know when.
Feed, Water, Water, Feed, Water, Water, Feed,.....

Here's my chart. Of course, you would have to tweek yours.
I use Roots organics, Earth Juice, Natures Nectar, and various additives, and beneficials.
I do small batches. Please note that everything is 1/2 gallon, feed water is 1 gallon.
I aerate for 24 hrs.

Nutrient Solutions

Nutrient Solutions are per ½ gallon:


GROW:
< ¾ T RO Buddha Grow
1-2 T Vermi-T (ewc tea)
1/4 t RO Trinity Catalyst (Kelp/Molasses)
2 drops molasses
2 drops GO Bio Weed seaweed kelp
1 drop DynaGro ProTekt silicon, Botanicare Vitamino vitamin + amino acid
* 1 drop Earth Juice Meta K, Earth Juice Microblast trace nutrients
Post aeration:
1 drop Bio-Ag Ful-Power Humic Acid
GROW: No Bloom, P, Guano

BLOOM:
< ½ T Grow (decrease after stretch)
< ¾ T RO Buddha Bloom (increase, then decrease)
< ½ T Nature's Nectar Phosphorus
1-2 T Vermi-T (ewc tea)
¼ t guano (dried)
¼ t Catalyst
2 drops molasses
*1 drop trace
Post aeration:
1 drop Humic Acid
BLOOM: No Seaweed Kelp, K, Silicon,

FINISHING FORMULA:
<½ T Phosphorus
<½ t guano (dried)
1/4 t Catalyst
1-2 T Vermi-T (ewc tea)
2 drops t molasses
*2 drops kelp
Post aeration:
1 drop Humic Acid
FINISHING: No Grow, Bloom, K, Silicon

FEED WATER:(between feedings)
1 gallon dechlorinated water
1-2 T Vermi-T (ewc tea)
¼ t Catalyst
2 drops molasses
1 drop silicon
*2 drops kelp
Feed Water: No Trace, K, Humic Acid


FINAL FLUSH: (last 7-10 days of grow)
H[SUB]2[/SUB]O only

Key:
T = Tablespoon (buy a set at grocery)
t = teaspoon
* = as needed


Oooop...sorry man, I just realized you have more reps and posts than me and arent a noob.
Oh well

Was just given one of these boxes today to test out. How did it fair out for you Thor?

In a recent experiment we took on Roots Organic Buddha Grow and Bloom on a Kosher Kush and it did very well all on its own.

Am very interested in how the rest of the Organic line does. (I noticed they slipped in a few synthetics)

They definitely did great for me. They seem to be very forgiving nutrients, but still pack a wallop. Where they are organic, you don't have to worry too much about burning. I worked my way up to a feed, feed, water schedule (it suggests to feed once then flush) and never had any problems. There were a couple soil amendments and other things that are part of the 5 mil program that aren't included (like the super nitro bat guano and the hygrozyme). I went through my grow without the super nitro guano (its like 15.5-1-1, so its the highest source of nitrogen in the system but its a dry nutrient. I did fine without it but did buy the hygrozYme and run it. Organic is more susceptible to bad bacteria and I had a little trouble with mold on the outside of my smart pots towards the end but nothing too terrible.

A tip that really helped me out--mix the nutrients 24 hours in advance. As long as you have a good air pump in your water then they won't rot in just 1 day, and the pH buffers back up to where no pH buffer is needed (my water comes out at 8.0, when I add nutes it drops to around 4.0, and 24 hours after mixing they are right at 6.5). If you're in soil it won't hurt if its still on the low side when you feed, and if the pH gets too high you can just add a little more nutes and bring it down).

Another thing--the elemental (their version of cal mag) is nice and has iron, but I wound up buying botanicares cal mag (has iron, too) BC the non-soluble elemental wasn't quite quick enough at treating deficiencies. I also wound up substituting the big swell (synthetic) with general hydros kool bloom (their flora bloom has a 0-5-4 npk, which is the same as the big swell and the kool bloom is a 0-10-10 but since its their "bulking" formula I switched to it.

Speaking of the synthetics--when you mix your nutrients a day ahead of time, don't add the synthetic stuff. Add the synthetics right before you feed, or it will turn rank. I always sniff the water, if it starts to smell rank don't feed it will definitely cause problems. And I think the elemental is supposed to go in first (if you add to water instead of top dressing) before adding any of the other nutes.

I had really bad pH problems in the beginning of flower that really affected my yield. I screwed up by mixing my nutes right before I fed, and added a ton of the pH plus buffer and by the time the nutes were high enough, I had added so much of the base that it just shocked the living hell out of my plants for like two weeks and I had no bud development. Anymore, I mix ahead of time and only have to buffer the pH when I am flushing with water, and I just bring it down a little with some apple vinegar.

Also--when you go to do the final flush, you don't even really have to worry about it as long as you stop using the synthetic stuff a week or two ahead of time. Organic nutes are different and dont really have the same need to be flushed.

Good luck bro! I had great results, lemme know if you have any questions. I'm hopefully starting an aeroponic setup soon but I still want to keep running some in soil BC of the success that I had.

Thanks for re-linking the master guide.

Your pics in the other post look very sweet but it does sound like you ended up not going with just the pack and went partial non-organic?

It does makes sense that its not quick responding; as organic materials don't act like chems they create more of a stable environment in the long term versus a penicillin type shot that produces instant results, and i'm fine with that. I really do want to experiment with just organics so I decided on:

Young-ling - Buddha Grow

Entire life cycle - Trinity, Ancient Amber, Extreme

Maturing and Flowering - Buddha Bloom

Flowering - HPK, HP2

Left out the Synthetics and the soil additives. Will run at 1/2 strength and let it ride with a boatload of notes for next time.

That sounds perfect, that's basically what I did (in terms of what you're giving it at the stages). I bought the surge and used it as well but didn't notice a huge difference. The trinity is supposed to help with stress, and not sure about the ancient amber (soluble leonardite? And I think has humic acid) but I used it too.

I continued using the trinity, a. Amber, and extreme serene throughout flower as well and it did fine. Fwiw, I just got my TDs meter yesterday and tested my water mixed at the 5 ml/gallon strength, and my ppm was only 500! So I definitely think I am going to start kicking the strength up more with my next grow. I am in flower, and that was using like 6 of the products @ 5 ml/ gallon. Dome of the products only have trace elements, and so they don't even have an npk value. Like the surge or ancient amber, you can add a on of that stuff without taking the ppm up too much.

And as far as root burn goes, I kept looking for it in my new growth my first time around, and never really saw it there (there was once or twice when I would transplant from cheap soil to fox farms and notice a purple tint in the new growth, but that was about the extent of it). When root burn DOES show up tho (and I'm assuming this is with organics in general, not just the roots line) it comes in the form of eutrophication, which is basically brown spots and stuff all throughout the leaves--not just in the new growth. It also shows up in the leaf tips especially, if you've been feeding really heavily.

Good luck with the master pack, I liked mine so much I ordered quarts of everything in it, except for the synthetics. I do plan on using the kool-bloom with it next time, so we'll see how that goes. Its looking like I'm gonna get right at 16 ounces off of 6 plants, and half of them are less than 2 feet tall so it definitely did well for me.