Rust spots during flowering

Hey everyone, hope this message finds you well. I'm here at day 60 since flip to 12/12 and figured I'd ask a question about some rust spots and dry crinkly leaves developing. I am using Ocean forest soil in 5 gallon pots and top dressing Dr. Earth's every 2 weeks. Only 1/5 plants is showing this problem, the others might have one or 2 very small spots if any. I tried rubbing the spots and there's no residue so I ruled out fungus. I'm thinking it might be a nutrient burn since the leaves are still very dark green so it certainly has more than enough Nitrogen. Thanks for taking a look, here are some pics:

Yeah, it’s nothing that will spread to your other plants.

Thanks Salter. Any idea if its a deficiency or toxicity of any kind just by looking at the pics?

calcium deficiency, and looks like a bit too much N, your leaves are a very dark green for that late in flower

Roger A. Shrubber said:

calcium deficiency, and looks like a bit too much N, your leaves are a very dark green for that late in flower

Click to expand...

Yeah no doubt, thanks Roger! Can you recommend any fast acting organic calcium nutes? And as far as the nitrogen goes, do you think its better to try and solve that problem or better off to let it run it's course? Looking at the pistils I'm guessing at least 3 or 4 weeks left. Maybe I hold off on the feeding this weekend and hit them next weekend... Even my bloom nutes have nitrogen in them.... been using bud and bloom booster for the past month 3-9-4..... Thanks again for your expertise!

TankHankerous said:

Thanks Salter. Any idea if its a deficiency or toxicity of any kind just by looking at the pics?

Click to expand...

Past damage. Nothing’s gonna fix that.
It’s a tough spot when you’re that far into flower chasing shit.
I’d go easy on the nutes.
It’ll finish fine.

cut the nutes back to half strength, once they're done swelling, they don't eat nearly as much. it's a little late to really "fix" the calcium problem, but there are a couple of decent organic products out there, espoma makes tomato tone, which is organic and has a lot of calcium, there's a company called TPS that makes organic cal-mag, and there is a product you can buy at most hardware stores that i can't remember the name of, but it will say "For Tomato Bud End Rot" which is pretty much pure calcium...but i don't know if that last one is organic or not...but it's pure calcium, don't know how inorganic that can be.

3 9 4,is that a dry fertilizer ?
You can see the burnt tips on some pics.
Hard to believe a N tox with dry bloom nutes.So guessing its liquid food.

myke said:

3 9 4,is that a dry fertilizer ?
You can see the burnt tips on some pics.
Hard to believe a N tox with dry bloom nutes.So guessing its liquid food.

Click to expand...

Yes, the 3-9-4 is a dry fertilizer. I also amended the FFOF with some earthworm castings and perlite, maybe that was the cause? Also I'm not sure if I topdressed too much Tomato and vegetable fert during veg stage. They have been dark green like this for a while. I was hoping they would use the nitrogen at this point but no dice. I haven't used any liquid food this grow.

if you use amendments, you have to cut back on the fertilizer, they're both essentially the same thing. if you're building "super soil" you're shooting for not having to ad any fertilizer, but you usually end up having to top dress a couple of times in flower, anyway.
EWC are usually around 5/5/3 just on their own
https://ucanr.edu/sites/mgfresno/files/262372.pdf

This late in flower? Just water till chop, let it finish as any Calcium would probably be too late to be used anyway.

hillbill said:

This late in flower? Just water till chop, let it finish as any Calcium would probably be too late to be used anyway.

Click to expand...

Agreed, just water the rest of the way.Learn and move on.

Thanks again all. Even Roger, although we don't see eye to eye on Politics we can still be friends!