Samsung H series strips, Arrow seems to be blowing them out! what a deal!

loco41

Well-Known Member
ive watched a lot of videos and i understand a lot of it and some i still do not. i think my "issue" is wanting to know more then i actually need to know to build these lights.
Im going to grab a HLG 480 or 600 from arrow to power 24x h series strips. im probably going to wire in parallel with fuses unless i can figure out a just as "safe" way without the fuses. That setup there will give me about 3-400 watts for veg light/s, running them nice an soft. (my theory)

All that being said , its great to have these junk drivers laying around because it taught me a lot and it shows me an actual footprint of what im going to be doing. Its also showing me that running 600mA to a strip thats rated for 1200mA is still going to be plenty of light.
For sure, I have a few random blurple drivers too and they're nice to play around with. Helps being able to actually see and do some things instead of reading and picturing the end result, at least for me.

I'm not sure exactly what you're shooting for, but maybe multiple smaller drivers/fixtures might be more beneficial and safer as well. With smaller drivers at least you aren't playing with as high volts/amps. Again, just my take on things.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
So when I first wired it up, I turned the vo (volts) all the way up and the io (current) all the way down. I then plugged it in and slowly turned the current up until I saw the watts from the wall I would use as the absolute max, the hlg 185 a goes beyond even the 200 I limited it to but figured that was a safe max to set it at. Next, I slowly turned the vo down until I saw the watts on my kilowatt just begin to drop. Now, I leave that vo dial where it's at and know that no matter how high I turn the current dial up, it will never pull more than 200 watts total because its voltage is limited to that specific number. So the current dial is all I use to adjust wattage now, but also if one board fails, the other board is only able to pull that set voltage limit so I know I won't fry the remaining board in case of a failure.

Sorry I'm horrible at explaining things in a proper fashion, but again from my understanding, the boards will pull as many volts as possible for the given current. Not exact numbers, but say each of my boards pulls 48 volts at a current of 1000ma when all things are running proper. If one board fails, the remaining board will try to pull the full 2000ma from the driver if the voltage is not limited which may or may not be an issue depending upon the board. If the voltage is limited to 48v in this case, the one working board will only be able to pull the same 1000ma that it was before the failure to the other. I'm pretty sure the cc/cv drivers will switch automatically to whatever your boards/strips are demanding.

Sorry man, I tried and hope this makes sense, but someone will be sure to stop in here and clarify the ramblings I just threw at you.
Finally someone who understands this and is also prepared to go thru the length of explaining it (im damn tired of doing it myself, so hats off ;) ). All good advice although i think you mix up the terminology re pulling volts or current even though the procdeure of how to set up your meanwell A-type dimming driver is correct. Again, but in other words: When you set or dim the voltage you consequently set a max current per board/strip; as you increase current thru a board/strip the corresponding forward voltage of the device will go up. As the voltage is limited by the driver you get an upper limit of current per device connected in parallel; the voltage of the driver sets up how much current each of the boards can draw.

Some things to keep in mind (and as per the 185w driver mentioned in the example above): follow this procedure and setup your driver to 48V so that each strip can draw 1000mA. If you connect only one strip at these settings to the driver, and keep current dimming to max: your 1 strip will draw 1000mA only but your driver will still pull power/over 200w from the wall as its still outputting full current, only that your strup cant pull that much(this as per my own experience with meanwells but might work differently). So in this case, i order to not waste power allways use the Io adjust as your main dimmer, the Vo adjust is more for setting up your whole system rather than controlling light intensity. But one needs to remember that inpractice the forward voltage of a strip is really the forward voltage and all its connecting cables/wagos: if theres a difference in cable gauge or length, extra wago connectors or what not between the different strings (this especially relevant with daisy chaining on the dc side) then you might see unequal light intensity between your strips even though your driver draws the same ac watts. Its allways best, if you can, to make sure each string is the same length in wire and amount of wagos as the rest.

Looking back at this it feels like more than explaining and simplifying ive muddled it more....

Do what loco said, and youll be fine. But if you see that even by doing so some of the strips are less.intense than the rest, then increase the Vo dimming ever so slightly till theyre all the same. After that use the Io dimming.
 

loco41

Well-Known Member
Finally someone who understands this and is also prepared to go thru the length of explaining it (im damn tired of doing it myself, so hats off ;) ). All good advice although i think you mix up the terminology re pulling volts or current even though the procdeure of how to set up your meanwell A-type dimming driver is correct. Again, but in other words: When you set or dim the voltage you consequently set a max current per board/strip; as you increase current thru a board/strip the corresponding forward voltage of the device will go up. As the voltage is limited by the driver you get an upper limit of current per device connected in parallel; the voltage of the driver sets up how much current each of the boards can draw.

Some things to keep in mind (and as per the 185w driver mentioned in the example above): follow this procedure and setup your driver to 48V so that each strip can draw 1000mA. If you connect only one strip at these settings to the driver, and keep current dimming to max: your 1 strip will draw 1000mA only but your driver will still pull power/over 200w from the wall as its still outputting full current, only that your strup cant pull that much(this as per my own experience with meanwells but might work differently). So in this case, i order to not waste power allways use the Io adjust as your main dimmer, the Vo adjust is more for setting up your whole system rather than controlling light intensity. But one needs to remember that inpractice the forward voltage of a strip is really the forward voltage and all its connecting cables/wagos: if theres a difference in cable gauge or length, extra wago connectors or what not between the different strings (this especially relevant with daisy chaining on the dc side) then you might see unequal light intensity between your strips even though your driver draws the same ac watts. Its allways best, if you can, to make sure each string is the same length in wire and amount of wagos as the rest.

Looking back at this it feels like more than explaining and simplifying ive muddled it more....

Do what loco said, and youll be fine. But if you see that even by doing so some of the strips are less.intense than the rest, then increase the Vo dimming ever so slightly till theyre all the same. After that use the Io dimming.
I figured I was off somewhere in my attempt at trying to help. Thanks for dropping some more knowledge for us though. I feel I have a little clearer understanding of it now as well. As always, much appreciated.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
I figured I was off somewhere in my attempt at trying to help. Thanks for dropping some more knowledge for us though. I feel I have a little clearer understanding of it now as well. As always, much appreciated.
Not off, the procedure for the Vo setup is perfect, although i look at light intensity rather than killawatt.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
There are about a dozen different strips all under $1. I ordered a few different ones to play around with since I got a 320w driver on ebay for 30 bucks. My order was sitting with a status of waiting for usps to pick up then magically got picked up once I messaged their support, so I would keep an eye on that so your package does not end up sitting for 3-4 days.

All the strips seem to run at least 50c so I am pretty sure some sort of heatsink will be needed. Flat bar, U channel, or even heatsinkusa strips all seem to be at minimum $2.50-3.00 a strip if not more. I was doing browsing last night and found 4ft aluminum track light strips $1 a piece with free shipping. I plan to remove the guts, sand off the paint, then cut them in half to make. Here is a link but you can find other retailers by doing a google search with the part #.


Everyone seems to push Wago brand around here but you can get 100 push in connectors at lowes for $7-8.

The only thing I haven't ordered yet is heatsink paste/tape. I haven't decided which product to order but either way the cheapest options seem to run about $15 to cover 20 2ft strips. If anyone has any input I'd appreciate it. I understand AS5 is the best but it isn't cheap and does not fit in with this budget build.

In the end I should have a 2'x5' light pushing 320w for under $100 with materials left over for a 2nd build. I'll hopefully have everything by Saturday so I will post an update once everything is assembled. I have a multi meter and flir camera but may order a ppfd meter to test things out since I will be building 3-4 different light set ups. Anyone have experience with some of the cheaper meters? Not sure I can justify spending $150-200 on one.
Those Push In connectors never ever let go if your wire. Wagos are superior for a reason.
 

Yesyes3000

Well-Known Member
I got 32 strips for like 70 cents a piece and 12 of the double row strips for 1.23 a piece few weeks ago. And there prices change cause the ones that were 1.23 were 2.33 at one point then went down now they are like 20$
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
These strips are very cheap but they seem to be obsolete stock, if you have a look at the specs they seem quite low; i saw 137lums/w stated on one. The problem is that they use max amps as test current which makes it a bit complicated to evaluate them. Running them a bit softer might get those values a bit higher but id still compare them to other offerings, bridgelux eb being the first one to come to mind.
 

GrOwThMoNgeR

Well-Known Member
These strips are very cheap but they seem to be obsolete stock, if you have a look at the specs they seem quite low; i saw 137lums/w stated on one. The problem is that they use max amps as test current which makes it a bit complicated to evaluate them. Running them a bit softer might get those values a bit higher but id still compare them to other offerings, bridgelux eb being the first one to come to mind.
I'm actually just not sure where to find them all but interested mostly on a kickass deal on something like the f or h strips. You guys wiring in parallel or series?
 

TintEastwood

Well-Known Member
I'm actually just not sure where to find them all but interested mostly on a kickass deal on something like the f or h strips. You guys wiring in parallel or series?
Octopart is Otay!

Parts search examples...


 

getogrow

Well-Known Member
So when I first wired it up, I turned the vo (volts) all the way up and the io (current) all the way down. I then plugged it in and slowly turned the current up until I saw the watts from the wall I would use as the absolute max, the hlg 185 a goes beyond even the 200 I limited it to but figured that was a safe max to set it at. Next, I slowly turned the vo down until I saw the watts on my kilowatt just begin to drop. Now, I leave that vo dial where it's at and know that no matter how high I turn the current dial up, it will never pull more than 200 watts total because its voltage is limited to that specific number. So the current dial is all I use to adjust wattage now, but also if one board fails, the other board is only able to pull that set voltage limit so I know I won't fry the remaining board in case of a failure.

Sorry I'm horrible at explaining things in a proper fashion, but again from my understanding, the boards will pull as many volts as possible for the given current. Not exact numbers, but say each of my boards pulls 48 volts at a current of 1000ma when all things are running proper. If one board fails, the remaining board will try to pull the full 2000ma from the driver if the voltage is not limited which may or may not be an issue depending upon the board. If the voltage is limited to 48v in this case, the one working board will only be able to pull the same 1000ma that it was before the failure to the other. I'm pretty sure the cc/cv drivers will switch automatically to whatever your boards/strips are demanding.

Sorry man, I tried and hope this makes sense, but someone will be sure to stop in here and clarify the ramblings I just threw at you.
Thank you sir. All that makes sense to me.
i still dont fully understand how the voltage an current work together.

Finally someone who understands this and is also prepared to go thru the length of explaining it (im damn tired of doing it myself, so hats off ;) ). All good advice although i think you mix up the terminology re pulling volts or current even though the procdeure of how to set up your meanwell A-type dimming driver is correct. Again, but in other words: When you set or dim the voltage you consequently set a max current per board/strip; as you increase current thru a board/strip the corresponding forward voltage of the device will go up. As the voltage is limited by the driver you get an upper limit of current per device connected in parallel; the voltage of the driver sets up how much current each of the boards can draw.

Some things to keep in mind (and as per the 185w driver mentioned in the example above): follow this procedure and setup your driver to 48V so that each strip can draw 1000mA. If you connect only one strip at these settings to the driver, and keep current dimming to max: your 1 strip will draw 1000mA only but your driver will still pull power/over 200w from the wall as its still outputting full current, only that your strup cant pull that much(this as per my own experience with meanwells but might work differently). So in this case, i order to not waste power allways use the Io adjust as your main dimmer, the Vo adjust is more for setting up your whole system rather than controlling light intensity. But one needs to remember that inpractice the forward voltage of a strip is really the forward voltage and all its connecting cables/wagos: if theres a difference in cable gauge or length, extra wago connectors or what not between the different strings (this especially relevant with daisy chaining on the dc side) then you might see unequal light intensity between your strips even though your driver draws the same ac watts. Its allways best, if you can, to make sure each string is the same length in wire and amount of wagos as the rest.

Looking back at this it feels like more than explaining and simplifying ive muddled it more....

Do what loco said, and youll be fine. But if you see that even by doing so some of the strips are less.intense than the rest, then increase the Vo dimming ever so slightly till theyre all the same. After that use the Io dimming.
This is what i was looking for , thank you sir! i know you get 300 questions a day, thanks for your time!
 

babybud

Well-Known Member
Those Push In connectors never ever let go if your wire. Wagos are superior for a reason.
Not saying they aren't superior, just 4x the cost and not needed unless you are planning to assemble and disassemble multiple times. If we are trying to be budget friendly which with the price of these strips I assume most of us are, then regular push connectors work just fine. The 4ft aluminum channel I posted for $1 shipped isn't the most superior heatsink either but is a hell of a deal for anyone pushing a lot of strips at low wattage.

I see you post a fair amount and are knowledgeable so please don't take the above as an insult, just an alternate approach for anyone trying to save a few bucks where they can.

While I have you here, do you have any thoughts on removing leds on a strip and replacing them? I have some V and M series laying around that i'd love to replace the leds with reds and then mix in a few strips with my current build.
 

getogrow

Well-Known Member
Not saying they aren't superior, just 4x the cost and not needed unless you are planning to assemble and disassemble multiple times. If we are trying to be budget friendly which with the price of these strips I assume most of us are, then regular push connectors work just fine. The 4ft aluminum channel I posted for $1 shipped isn't the most superior heatsink either but is a hell of a deal for anyone pushing a lot of strips at low wattage.

I see you post a fair amount and are knowledgeable so please don't take the above as an insult, just an alternate approach for anyone trying to save a few bucks where they can.

While I have you here, do you have any thoughts on removing leds on a strip and replacing them? I have some V and M series laying around that i'd love to replace the leds with reds and then mix in a few strips with my current build.
while i have you here , are them 4ft er's still available ? Thanks man
 
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