Schwaggy P's Random Stuff

Schwaggy P

Well-Known Member
nice i was missing your frequent posts :)
i was gonna throw up a pic of the jabba f2 4 weeks in. there is one in a pic on usefuls thread i posted this morning. if you were interested in a side by side with the mint choc trip. i'll throw some pics on here thos over the weekend when i branch pollinate to make f3s

thanks for the post on how you collect pollen to man. i like that grinder idea
:mrgreen: I have a few posts worth of stuff to get up here. I'll check it out, thanks for the updates. I'll be doing a run of branch pollinations later today and will get some pics for a post.
 

Baja.Beaches

Well-Known Member
View attachment 4334679 View attachment 4334677
Materials:
Silver Nitrate (AgNO3)
Sodium Thiosulfate or Sodium Thiosulfate Pentahydrate (Na2S2O3 or Na2S2O3-5H2O)
Distilled water
Gloves
Mask
Containers
Spray bottle
Volume measuring device
Scale

We will be preparing 2 separate solutions that will be mixed later for spraying.
:!:Labeling your containers with A and B before will help to keep them from being confused.

:!:Wear the gloves throughout the preparation and application of STS, and wear the mask during the spray application of STS.


SOLUTION A – Silver Nitrate
View attachment 4334670
1) Mass 1.7g of Silver Nitrate, and add this to your container labeled A (pic 1,2)

:!:Be careful when handling the Silver Nitrate as it can stain your skin.

2) Add 100mL of distilled water to container A (pic 3).

3) Agitate the mixture until the Silver Nitrate dissolves.

:!:Do not use metal objects to stir this solution (you can use plastic spoons, straws, or glass)

4) Store Solution A in a dark bottle or in a bag, and keep it in a dark place until needed for mixing STS spray solution (pic 4).

SOLUTION B – Sodium Thiosulfate
View attachment 4334671

:!::!:TAKE NOTE OF WHICH SODIUM THIOSULFATE COMPOUND YOU HAVE: EITHER SODIUM THIOSULFATE OR SODIUM THIOSULFATE PENTAHYDRATE! The only difference between the two is that one has water in the compound that can throw off the concentrations of our target solution if no tweak to the mass is made.

5) Mass either: 6.32g Sodium Thiosulfate OR 9.92g Sodium Thiosulfate Pentahydrate and add this to your container labeled B (pic 5,6).

6) Add 400mL of distilled water to container B (pic 7).

7) Agitate the mixture until the Sodium Thiosulfate dissolves.

:!:This mixture does not need to be protected from light (pic 8). Both mixtures can be stored for long periods of time and mixed when needed for reversal.

Preparation of STS
View attachment 4334672

We will be mixing an amount of Solution A and Solution B to create the Silver Thiosulfate. It is very important to note:
:!:WE MUST ADD SOLUTION-A TO SOLUTION-B WHEN MIXING.

To create a stock solution of STS, we will need a ratio of [1partA : 4partsB]. You can tailor your volume to make only what you will need for your spraying application.

For the purposes of this example, I will prepare a stock solution of specific volume:

8) Add 5mL of Solution A to 20mL of Solution B. You now have a stock solution of Silver Thiosulfate (STS) (pic 9).

:!:The STS solution is not very stable, so it is best to only prepare what you will be using for one round of spraying.

Dilution of STS for Spray Application

Depending on the particular plant you would like to reverse, you may need stronger/weaker STS spray. You can use 1:2, 1:3, 1:4, etc. ratios of STS:Water.

I will be using a 1:2 ratio and make any adjustments based on how the plant is responding.

9) Since we have 25mL of STS prepared, we can add 50mL of distilled water (pic 10). We now have 1:2 STS reversal spray solution. Add this mixture to your spray bottle if you mixed in a different container (pic 11).

Application of STS
View attachment 4334673

:!:You could spray a target female while in the growing space around other plants (assuming you get no spray on any other plants) with success, but we will remove the target female and segregate her for spraying.

10) Place a drop cloth, cardboard, or cover under the female to keep overspray contained. This also has the effect of shielding the soil from STS overspray (pic 12).

11) Spray the female liberally, either as with any foliar spray application or targeting only nodes. I have chosen to spray the entire plant (pic 13,14).

12) Allow the female to dry before returning her to the growing space.

You will repeat the STS spray application every 7-10 days until you observe the development of male parts. This means there will only need to be 2-3 applications of the STS spray for successful reversal and collection of pollen.

:!:The female will take about 2 weeks to show the fruits of reversal. Some suggest to begin the spraying 2 weeks in advance of flower to keep her closer to a schedule seen with males. For this plant, I will be spraying at the start of flip.

Here is the Chemdog’91(skva) progressing through the reversal process, culminating in harvestable pollen around day 29.
View attachment 4334674

REVERSED POLLEN COLLECTION
View attachment 4334675

There are many ways to go about harvest and collection of fem pollen, but this is how I go about the process.

Materials:
Reversed pollen sacs
Grinder screen and lid (no kief catch)
Scraper (cut from plant tag)
Pollen container
Razor
Work Surface (black paper plate)

View attachment 4334676
1) You can better prep your pollen by separating the “bananas” from any other plant matter, but I left them on in this picture (pic 1).

:!:Allowing your freshly plucked pollen sacs a couple days to dry before attempting this will aid in pollen collection.

2) Place the bananas in the grinder screen (no kief catch attached to bottom), and gently agitate/chop with the scraper (pic 2).

3) Holding the screen with one hand, gently tap the side with the grinder lid. You will see the bananas skid across the screen (pic 3).

4) Give the screen a minute before gently lifting to reveal the separated pollen (pic 4).

5) Scrape the pollen with your razor and store into your pollen container.

With your fem pollen created and collected, you can now pollinate your females to create feminized seeds. Feel free to marry this with the single branch pollination process to create small batch fem seeds for yourself without sacrificing whole plants.

Wow @schwaggyp, The amount of effort you put into that outstanding tutorial is amazing.

How do you feel about feminized seeds? Is it a niche you are going to explore further?

I am old school, I have my 1st ever feminized in the ground now. I am coming around to thinking they definitely have their place in my garden.

Thank you for sharing that with us. It is helpful to understand the total process even if I have no plans to attempt it anytime soon.
 

Schwaggy P

Well-Known Member
Wow @schwaggyp, The amount of effort you put into that outstanding tutorial is amazing.

How do you feel about feminized seeds? Is it a niche you are going to explore further?

I am old school, I have my 1st ever feminized in the ground now. I am coming around to thinking they definitely have their place in my garden.

Thank you for sharing that with us. It is helpful to understand the total process even if I have no plans to attempt it anytime soon.
Thank you!

I don’t have an issue with growing out feminized seeds, but I prefer the traditional Male/Female breeding. I don’t have any concrete plans to start producing fem seeds en masse. Beyond its obvious use, it’s a great process to have in the breeding toolbox to refine a female plant. When you self a plant, you’ll get progeny that express as tighter variations on a theme. So if there is a particular aspect to a female that you’d like to accentuate or even get rid of, pheno-hunting S1 that expresses your target trait more intensely can be beneficial. I grew out a Bubba Kush S1 that was all coffee, it was my favorite plant until it began flowering in veg (was not marked as an auto), so the reversal process can help tweak a great female.

I reversed the Chem’91 you see in the write-up just to be able to take pics and show the process, but since I went through the trouble and been having to cover/uncover the storage tote everyday for the past several weeks, I’ll put the little collected pollen to work on some things.

You are very welcome, I’m glad to share. I will be doing another reversal with GA3 to have another write-up that will not require as many starting chemicals, but that will need to wait for my target lady to veg out a bit more. She will be selfed to find a Super Skunk leaner for further Skunk work.
 

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
Thank you!

I don’t have an issue with growing out feminized seeds, but I prefer the traditional Male/Female breeding. I don’t have any concrete plans to start producing fem seeds en masse. Beyond its obvious use, it’s a great process to have in the breeding toolbox to refine a female plant. When you self a plant, you’ll get progeny that express as tighter variations on a theme. So if there is a particular aspect to a female that you’d like to accentuate or even get rid of, pheno-hunting S1 that expresses your target trait more intensely can be beneficial. I grew out a Bubba Kush S1 that was all coffee, it was my favorite plant until it began flowering in veg (was not marked as an auto), so the reversal process can help tweak a great female.

I reversed the Chem’91 you see in the write-up just to be able to take pics and show the process, but since I went through the trouble and been having to cover/uncover the storage tote everyday for the past several weeks, I’ll put the little collected pollen to work on some things.

You are very welcome, I’m glad to share. I will be doing another reversal with GA3 to have another write-up that will not require as many starting chemicals, but that will need to wait for my target lady to veg out a bit more. She will be selfed to find a Super Skunk leaner for further Skunk work.
Amazing
 

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
View attachment 4334679 View attachment 4334677
Materials:
Silver Nitrate (AgNO3)
Sodium Thiosulfate or Sodium Thiosulfate Pentahydrate (Na2S2O3 or Na2S2O3-5H2O)
Distilled water
Gloves
Mask
Containers
Spray bottle
Volume measuring device
Scale

We will be preparing 2 separate solutions that will be mixed later for spraying.
:!:Labeling your containers with A and B before will help to keep them from being confused.

:!:Wear the gloves throughout the preparation and application of STS, and wear the mask during the spray application of STS.


SOLUTION A – Silver Nitrate
View attachment 4334670
1) Mass 1.7g of Silver Nitrate, and add this to your container labeled A (pic 1,2)

:!:Be careful when handling the Silver Nitrate as it can stain your skin.

2) Add 100mL of distilled water to container A (pic 3).

3) Agitate the mixture until the Silver Nitrate dissolves.

:!:Do not use metal objects to stir this solution (you can use plastic spoons, straws, or glass)

4) Store Solution A in a dark bottle or in a bag, and keep it in a dark place until needed for mixing STS spray solution (pic 4).

SOLUTION B – Sodium Thiosulfate
View attachment 4334671

:!::!:TAKE NOTE OF WHICH SODIUM THIOSULFATE COMPOUND YOU HAVE: EITHER SODIUM THIOSULFATE OR SODIUM THIOSULFATE PENTAHYDRATE! The only difference between the two is that one has water in the compound that can throw off the concentrations of our target solution if no tweak to the mass is made.

5) Mass either: 6.32g Sodium Thiosulfate OR 9.92g Sodium Thiosulfate Pentahydrate and add this to your container labeled B (pic 5,6).

6) Add 400mL of distilled water to container B (pic 7).

7) Agitate the mixture until the Sodium Thiosulfate dissolves.

:!:This mixture does not need to be protected from light (pic 8). Both mixtures can be stored for long periods of time and mixed when needed for reversal.

Preparation of STS
View attachment 4334672

We will be mixing an amount of Solution A and Solution B to create the Silver Thiosulfate. It is very important to note:
:!:WE MUST ADD SOLUTION-A TO SOLUTION-B WHEN MIXING.

To create a stock solution of STS, we will need a ratio of [1partA : 4partsB]. You can tailor your volume to make only what you will need for your spraying application.

For the purposes of this example, I will prepare a stock solution of specific volume:

8) Add 5mL of Solution A to 20mL of Solution B. You now have a stock solution of Silver Thiosulfate (STS) (pic 9).

:!:The STS solution is not very stable, so it is best to only prepare what you will be using for one round of spraying.

Dilution of STS for Spray Application

Depending on the particular plant you would like to reverse, you may need stronger/weaker STS spray. You can use 1:2, 1:3, 1:4, etc. ratios of STS:Water.

I will be using a 1:2 ratio and make any adjustments based on how the plant is responding.

9) Since we have 25mL of STS prepared, we can add 50mL of distilled water (pic 10). We now have 1:2 STS reversal spray solution. Add this mixture to your spray bottle if you mixed in a different container (pic 11).

Application of STS
View attachment 4334673

:!:You could spray a target female while in the growing space around other plants (assuming you get no spray on any other plants) with success, but we will remove the target female and segregate her for spraying.

10) Place a drop cloth, cardboard, or cover under the female to keep overspray contained. This also has the effect of shielding the soil from STS overspray (pic 12).

11) Spray the female liberally, either as with any foliar spray application or targeting only nodes. I have chosen to spray the entire plant (pic 13,14).

12) Allow the female to dry before returning her to the growing space.

You will repeat the STS spray application every 7-10 days until you observe the development of male parts. This means there will only need to be 2-3 applications of the STS spray for successful reversal and collection of pollen.

:!:The female will take about 2 weeks to show the fruits of reversal. Some suggest to begin the spraying 2 weeks in advance of flower to keep her closer to a schedule seen with males. For this plant, I will be spraying at the start of flip.

Here is the Chemdog’91(skva) progressing through the reversal process, culminating in harvestable pollen around day 29.
View attachment 4334674

REVERSED POLLEN COLLECTION
View attachment 4334675

There are many ways to go about harvest and collection of fem pollen, but this is how I go about the process.

Materials:
Reversed pollen sacs
Grinder screen and lid (no kief catch)
Scraper (cut from plant tag)
Pollen container
Razor
Work Surface (black paper plate)

View attachment 4334676
1) You can better prep your pollen by separating the “bananas” from any other plant matter, but I left them on in this picture (pic 1).

:!:Allowing your freshly plucked pollen sacs a couple days to dry before attempting this will aid in pollen collection.

2) Place the bananas in the grinder screen (no kief catch attached to bottom), and gently agitate/chop with the scraper (pic 2).

3) Holding the screen with one hand, gently tap the side with the grinder lid. You will see the bananas skid across the screen (pic 3).

4) Give the screen a minute before gently lifting to reveal the separated pollen (pic 4).

5) Scrape the pollen with your razor and store into your pollen container.

With your fem pollen created and collected, you can now pollinate your females to create feminized seeds. Feel free to marry this with the single branch pollination process to create small batch fem seeds for yourself without sacrificing whole plants.
You ever teach a class??? Your knowledge of this is beyond my comprehension... That being said,what DON'T YOU KNOW about growing weed??? I tip my hat to you sir!!!!
 

Schwaggy P

Well-Known Member
Single Branch Pollinations

Pollen bank withdrawals:
prep1.jpg
  • HAOG x Black Triangle #1 (name not decided yet, either Hells Hypotenuse or Pythagorus OG)
  • HAOG x Black Triangle #2
  • Black Triangle
  • Reversed Chem'91(skva)
  • Ecto Cooler
Since I'm pollinating HAOG, the OG internodes and branching are quite long, so I got some bread bags to be able to get more dusted buds covered vs lunch bags.
prep2.jpg

Here's the table before pruning and dusting at day 24:
predust.jpg

Same table after pollinating:
postdust.jpg

Final List of dustings this round:
GG4 x Ecto Cooler - just 'cause
GG4 x Chem'91(skva) - just 'cause
Chem'91(skva) S1 - Looking to refine through subsequent S2, S3, ....
Chem'91(JB) x Chem'91(skva) - Looking for female for the final cubed HAOG male.
HAOG x Black Triangle - Replenish breeding stock
HAOG BX1 #1 (HAOG x (HAOG x Black Triangle #1)) - next step of cube (polyBX)
HAOG BX1 #2 (HAOG x (HAOG x Black Triangle #2)) - next step of cube (polyBX)
 

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
Single Branch Pollinations

Pollen bank withdrawals:
View attachment 4334863
  • HAOG x Black Triangle #1 (name not decided yet, either Hells Hypotenuse or Pythagorus OG)
  • HAOG x Black Triangle #2
  • Black Triangle
  • Reversed Chem'91(skva)
  • Ecto Cooler
Since I'm pollinating HAOG, the OG internodes and branching are quite long, so I got some bread bags to be able to get more dusted buds covered vs lunch bags.
View attachment 4334865

Here's the table before pruning and dusting at day 24:
View attachment 4334866

Same table after pollinating:
View attachment 4334867

Final List of dustings this round:
GG4 x Ecto Cooler - just 'cause
GG4 x Chem'91(skva) - just 'cause
Chem'91(skva) S1 - Looking to refine through subsequent S2, S3, ....
Chem'91(JB) x Chem'91(skva) - Looking for female for the final cubed HAOG male.
HAOG x Black Triangle - Replenish breeding stock
HAOG BX1 #1 (HAOG x (HAOG x Black Triangle #1)) - next step of cube (polyBX)
HAOG BX1 #2 (HAOG x (HAOG x Black Triangle #2)) - next step of cube (polyBX)
Need i say more???
 

CoB_nUt

Well-Known Member
I'm diggin' both names. Hells Hypotenuse and Pythagorus OG. Both fitting.Hard to decide and they aren't even my creations.Hells Hypotenuse grows on me the more I say it.Of course the P theory certainly works with the Black triangle in there.Lol...when you do decide on one.What will you do with the other(name)? It's worth using on another cultivar of yours with the BT in it...IMO.
 

Schwaggy P

Well-Known Member
Breeding Project: Solvent Skunk
Selections for F2
(Green Crack S1 x Granny Skunk)F1 have all sexed and been selected using the goals of the project (sturdier GCs1 dom). Here are a few of the plants remaining after the undesirables were culled to give an idea of the general range I'm trying to narrow:
groop.jpg
There were quite a few Afghan expressions that popped out of this cross. I could see aunts'/uncles' expressions that looked like it came straight from the Granny Skunk F1 pack.
I have chosen 2 males to move forward with the F2. I will be pollinating 2 branches on each female (one each of the males) to decide which male produces the better offspring. The male on the left sports the narrower leaves, but the male on the right has the more prominent double serrations (GCs1 trait).
boys.jpg
The male on the left has some Granny features that can be seen in the P1 father (tighter petioles, very sturdy main stalk, pronounced blade spread, # of blades):
gcg-dadcomparison.jpg
The male on the right struck me as a Granny Skunk uncle with short petioles, wider leaf blades (compared to the other selected male), and the leathery skin leaf texture.
granny pheno.jpg
The doubly serrated expressed in the GCs1(middle) compared to the selected males:
gcg-fans.jpg

All of the selections have been topped and are currently rooting to move on to the flower room for the next round of pollinations.
 

outliergenetix

Well-Known Member
hey there @Schwaggy P your jabba f2s are coming along nice. 6 females out of 10 seeds @ day28. i am branch pollinating today so i had em out. i didnt pollinat the jabbas yet already did the mint trips they are in the second pic. just took a break and posting this. i will maybe post again with a smell report or anything of note. i took notes on each while i had em out, but again i only did the trips so far.
peace brotha and thanks for all your help
 

Attachments

bubbahaze

Well-Known Member
Green Crack S1 (one Green Crack CBD first row center-right) - Day 43
View attachment 4314641
H.A. OG - Day 47
View attachment 4314645

Chocolate Covered Strawberries F2 + GG4 - Day 27
View attachment 4314646

CCS
View attachment 4314647
GG4
View attachment 4314648

Black Lights (Black Domina x NL#1) and Old School Hashplant (PNW HP x 88G13HP) table has been flipped a few days ago. Here is the lone Old School Hashplant that germinated.
View attachment 4314649

Skunky Brewster dried just before hitting the jars and trim.
View attachment 4314650
Polyandric Backcross
An attempt to mitigate the potential loss of recessive contributions inherent in observational breeding while simultaneously assessing step-wise male contributions.
“Don’t let perfect be the enemy of the good.”

INTRODUCTION
The backcross method of breeding is a great process for getting an elite clone-only female into seed form. It’s most widely used form can be seen in the cubing method of repeating backcross generations until the resultant progeny have a ~94% genetic contribution of the target plant. Cinderella 99 is a great example of the cubing method.

The backcross process, as has been practically employed in the example of C99, makes the assumption that the successive genetic contribution passes to subsequent generations monolithically. The assumption then concludes that the repeated selection of a male will pollinate the original target female, resulting in progeny that is converging to her phenotype.

While the assumption of monolithic heredity (the human application would be to assume you would look like your father on the left side and your mother on the right side) seems ignorant of the myriad dynamics of genetic reality, it has utility as a method of herding the genetic range/pool into a purposeful direction (the target plant).

This ostensible oversimplification is almost mandatory in observational breeding as the selection of the male is based on phenotype instead of genotype. If I can only select based on what I see, then phenotype necessarily becomes the motivation irrespective of the “unseen” alleles. In a lab setting with unlimited technological resources, marker assisted backcrossing and other highly advanced techniques allow for the attempt to include the more nuanced dynamics of heredity. This is not the normal scenario for cannabis breeders, but does not diminish the classical backcross procedure as a powerful breeding tool.

BACKGROUND
The process of backcrossing as practiced, usually calls for the selection of a singular male from the initial F1 generation (Target female x Outcross Male) that most resembles the target female. This creates a bias for phenotype. A problem can arise if the constituent traits that make up the target female are double recessive. If you select a male based solely on observable phenotype and choose a male whose corresponding trait is heterozygous, then you will have created a scenario in which the targeted double recessive trait of the mother can be “washed out” by the true breeding dominant male (one could try to recover in a further generation, but this assumes you know it’s required and can select the necessary genotype for this attempt).

Here is an example of a scenario in which the limitation to a single male selection for the next backcross pollination can impact the resultant frequency of a targeted recessive trait:

EXAMPLE:
Let’s assume we have a target female H.A.OG and a male Black Triangle. We would like to backcross with 2 traits in mind, leaf blades and stigma color. After the initial F1 cross, we see that the progeny all have the leaves of the Black Triangle, so we assume the leaf trait is double recessive in the target female (H.A.OG).

AA = Black Triangle leaves
Aa = Black Triangle leaves
aa = H.A.OG leaves

Now, let’s add a second trait that cannot be observed in the male, stigma color (pistils).

BB = Black Triangle red stigma
Bb = Black Triangle red stigma
bb = H.A.OG brown stigma

In the scenario where you have only chosen one male based on the observable phenotype, you choose a male with the genotype: AABb (Black Tri leaves, Black Tri stigma color)

Our genotypes are:
H.A.OG – aabb
Black TriangleAABb
View attachment 4323917
We see that the progeny from this cross results in 2 distinct phenotypes suffering from the same issue we had in the previous generation (remember we already made the F1 and selected a male), namely a “washing out” of the recessive H.A.OG leaves and have a trait, stigma color, which cannot be observed in the males (pic 1). By limiting our choice to one male from this population for the next backcross, we are essentially flipping a coin on the potential frequencies of desirable traits. Since our selections are practically blind (because we cannot observe the genotype) we are at the mercy of probability.

Let’s see what happens if you selected a male of the AaBb variety (red boxes) to backcross with our H.A.OG (aabb):
View attachment 4323919
We end up with 25% of the population with the target female phenotype aabb (pic 2). So when you blindly choose a male from this population, you only have a 1 in 4 shot at choosing the “right” male for the next round of pollination.

Now we will see what happens if I had chosen the other phenotype from the previous generation, Aabb (green boxes) to backcross to the H.A.OG:
View attachment 4323920
In this case, we see that the target female phenotype is 50% of the population (pic 3). Contrast from the other male selection (pic 2), you now have a 1 in 2 shot at choosing the “right” male for the next generation.

The point being that limiting the male selection for the next backcross to one male, can hinder the success rate and total time required to reach the goal of increasing the desired target female traits.

POLYANDRIC BACKCROSS (polyBX)
I endeavor to attempt a modification to the backcrossing method that seeks to manipulate the probabilities such that the inherent blindness to the genotype does not breed one’s self into a corner in the case of singular male selection. I have dubbed this process Polyandric Backcrossing. "Polyandric", refers to a female with multiple male mates (more specific form of polygamy).

Instead of limiting to one male selection for continued backcrosses, multiple males will be chosen to pollinate the target female on different branches and kept separate (not mixing the pollen of all males). By choosing multiple males, the probability that the selection will include the necessary genetic ingredients to eventually converge on the target phenotype is augmented. In essence, this hedges against a wrong male selection at some point in the extended backcrossing process. The Polyandric Backcross (polyBX) can be thought of as multiple classical single male backcrosses happening concurrently. Since this polyBX process is to have a practical application to the at-home breeder, I will choose 3 males for each backcross generation.

In an effort to better benchmark the contribution of each chosen male, I will flower his daughters while simultaneously pollinating the target female with his son I choose for the next BX generation (pic 4). This allows me to have flowered examples of his contributions to the target female harvested and observed at the time the seeds for the BX are complete and ready to pop for further male selection.
View attachment 4323923
In a scenario where the flowered daughters have shown stark deviations from the female, this line will be discontinued, and only the converging males will continue for further male selections (pic 5). Meaning, I will select my next multiple males only from those male lines that show a converging tendency. This will ensure a benchmarking or testing of each male selection without adding any extra time to this already involved process.
View attachment 4323924
The other advantage to flowering each backcrossed generations’ daughters, is that the extent to which the polyBX generations must continue can be better assessed based on the results, instead of the classical backcross assumption of raw monolith percentage contribution. Where classical BX may do a full cube, the polyBX may only require a couple generations as evidenced by the performance of the flowered daughters.

While cutting down the required BX generations seems promising, it would require saving veg copies of the males in the event you find you’ve “nailed it” at a certain early BX generation. I will instead hybridize the classical and polyBX procedures to set out to do at least a certain number of BX generations (3-6) and save only the last set of selected males. This will allow me to toss earlier males, but keep the final male that gives me the best result for the final parental ingredients (Target female and polyBX’d male) to make large populations of the “winning” combo.

The final stage of the polyBX process could include filial breeding the final polyBX generation instead of replicating the final BX generation. I believe this decision will become more persuasive to either approach as information is gathered from the process. I can see pros and cons to this approach, but will reserve the decision after having assessed the efficacy of this Polyandric Backcrossing.
Wow book level info free to all, thank you kind sir
 

Schwaggy P

Well-Known Member
hey there @Schwaggy P your jabba f2s are coming along nice. 6 females out of 10 seeds @ day28. i am branch pollinating today so i had em out. i didnt pollinat the jabbas yet already did the mint trips they are in the second pic. just took a break and posting this. i will maybe post again with a smell report or anything of note. i took notes on each while i had em out, but again i only did the trips so far.
peace brotha and thanks for all your help
Your Jabba F2 are looking good (along with the mint trips). I made sure to include at least one seed from every female that was pollinated with the selected male, but they seem to be pretty uniform in height. The Jabba’s Stash F1 was more varied, so it seems the male has a homogenizing influence. I can see his influence on the SSDD in your other pictures as well.

Nice to see lunch bag row :-), I’m eager to see how you like the single branch dusting. Since you dusted them all, you know you’ll have seeds of your favorite pheno at harvest time. You’re welcome, glad to help.
 
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